a1 partwork Flying Scotsman

[sillyoldbegger]

Hi Folks,

has any one yet seen the loco name plates and, if so, can they tell me if they are proper plates or transfers or what. The reason for asking is that I have a chance of a set of plates at a very reasonable price and I am not sure, at this moment, what to do. Thanks in anticipation

Mike

[Stan Owen]

Anyone know the best way to apply water transfers is there a substance to help you besides water

 

 

Ted..

 

Ted

 

In the military modelling (aeroplaces, etc), there used to be available a "wetting agent" type liquid which softened the transfers and allowed then to "settle" into the the underlying shape of the surface to which they were applied. In the case of the "Scottie", I can not see this making a great deal of difference with the tender, the loco cabside, the boiler (bands) or the cylinders as those surfaces are already pretty flat (or should be!). For the lining on the axleboxes, buffers beams, splashers, however, it might help the transfers to "snuggle down" to the underlying surface.

 

It is many years since I used waterslide transfers so I'm not sure exactly where you get a bottle of the liquid I've described. Eileen's Emplorium might be able to help (and I seem to remember that Carr's used to sell this kind of product) but I'm sure a web search will turn up a supplier of the liquid concerned.

 

I can not recall ever having had a great deal of success with waterslide transfers and applying the wheel lining on "Scottie" (before I found it it was wrong anyway for the loco running in 1928) taxed my patience considerably and I had to cut the circular transfer and coax them around the rims with a fine brush - otherwise they just insisted on folding over on themselves. I see from issue 122 that Hachette are suggesting much the same which implies that it is not just my cackhandedness with the things. Having said all that, most people seem to get on just fine with waterslide transfers so it is probably is just me!

 

I shall, however, be using the axlebox, cab front and footplate lining transfers as supplied by Hachette but I'm not yet at the stage to apply these. For the other transfers I'm be using HMRS Pressfix (lining) and HMRS Methfix (lettering) as I know I can achieve a reasonable result using these products.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards, Stan Owen

[Stan Owen]

Anyone know the best way to apply water transfers is there a substance to help you besides water

 

 

Ted..

 

PS.

 

Apply a coat of varnish as soon as you can after applying the transfers as any handling will probably damage them otherwise.

 

Oh and I've just found an ancient bottle of the "snuggle-up" liquid I referred to in my previous reply! It did come from Carrs and was called "Transfix" (blue label) but I'm pretty sure that many other suppliers have a similar product.

 

Regards, Stan Owen

[Stan Owen]

WARNING! WARNING!

 

Having risen nice and early I thought I'd spend the shining hour applying the lining transfer to the tender rear bufferbeam. After about an hour of chopping the transfer into smaller pieces and coaxing these into the correct positions, I duly followed my own advice to give a light coat of varnish to protect the transfers against damage before applying the final varnish coat (Precision Paints Satin Airbrushing Varnish PAV72) later in the week. As usual, the "fix" coat was Humbrol Hobby Spray Satin Varnish (Acrylic).

 

Disaster. My newly applied transfers looked as though I had sprayed them with paint stripper as they curled and crinkled all over the place. In case anyone else is thinking of using Humbrol Acrylic spray varnish to protect the transfers once applied, don't! In fact, for any sort of varnish it might well be a good plan to apply one of the loco wheel lining transfers to a piece of painted plastic card or metal (assuming your model has unlined drivers as in 1928) and try out your chosen varnish. I've never common across this before but I've not a lot of experience with waterslide and this may be a well-known phenemenon. It might be that Hachette will mention this in the next issue but you have been warned.

 

Having removed the old transfers in all their crinkly glory with a cocktail stick, I reverted to my original plan of using HMRS Pressfix which are actually somewhat finer than the Hachette offerings. These replacements took a considerably shorter time to apply - they are "sticky" and are pressed into position and the backing sheet then soaked with water from a fine brush and slid away. I hope when I come to varnish these they will not exhibit the same issues as the waterslide product but I've never had such a problem with Pressfix down the years before so fingers crossed.

 

I'm somewhat relieved that I discovered this before applying the axlebox and spring lining as I intend to use the Hachette-supplied items for these

 

Hope this helps someone avoid the error I made.

 

Regards, Stan Owen

[pecksniff]

To sillyoldbeggar Nameplates are made of brass same as number plates ..number plates seem to be wrong number

so it might be worth buying to see what numbers you get and put us out of our misery..

 

Going to get 2 nameplates one for the mullard and another name Sir somebody..

 

I bought a little book that said Flying scotsman was number 105 later given the number 60105 any info on this anyone

 

Thanks for the info Stan started on the Tender transfers but not having 60/60 vision bit of a pain trying to slide bits where they dont want to go, think this will be a long job but rome wasn't built in a day etc etc...

 

regards

 

Ted..

 

p.s always nice to have warnings Stan..

 

Like I said before araldite will fall apart in some hot water..nice to know how mistakes can be rectified..

[jamie92208]

As far as I know (Though I'm not an LNER expert) FS was 4472 then 103 then 60103.

 

Jamie

[Stan Owen]

I'm not an LNER modeller so this query might seem absurd but did the LNER really line the front tender beam (drawbeam)? Hachette have, on the one of the transfer sheets, supplied a "Tender Front Beam" lining transfer. Given that the coupling between loco and tender is extremely small on the prototype, any lining would be largely invisible and it does seem to me somewhat improbable that the LNER would go to the expense of lining an area which would, in normal traffic, never be seen. In Loco Profile (number 1), there is a colour illustration (not a photograph) of the corridor tender showing a black, unlined, drawbeam.

 

Thanks to anyone who can provide any information on this.

 

Regards, Stan Owen

[Stan Owen]

I've not yet received the last two issues (124/125) so my question might be somewhat premature, but has anyone had any success with the tender axlebox lining transfers? This morning I thought I'd see how simple (or otherwise) they were to apply and having put one on (tricky - it folds) I cannot help but conclude that they are somewhat old-fashioned in comparison with the superb waterslide transfers the military modellers have been using for years. The carrier film (the film on which the transfer is printed) extends across the entire axlebox so the transfer, once applied, is entirely shiny. Furthermore, whilst I'm am applying to a satin surface (I understand a gloss surface is best for waterslides), they demonstrate a remarkable reluctance to stay in place after drying.

 

I know that I am a cack-handed individual when it comes to such things and I'm sure that innumerable responses will explain that the transfers are fine and that it would be best if I took up some other hobby, but has anyone else tried applying these things? I suspect that the builder of the model in the magazines had access to innumerable sheets so that if one transfer went pear-shaped he/she just used another. We, of course, lack that luxury.

 

I've now decided to line the axleboxes using a bowpen and red paint and it doesn't just look better it also takes 5% of the time. In case you are wondering, I am no expert in using such an instrument and this is the first lining I have done for well over ten years (and I was not any good then either). Nonetheless, given that the lines are straight and merely require me to hold a ruler in place and run the pen along stopping at the correct point, it is a task that even I can undertake. In fact, one or two of my lines were not exactly where I wanted them and cleaning off the offending line with thinners and a fine brush provided a clean surface for me to try again.

 

The bowpen I am using is one I bought donkey's years ago, a Kern in a green box. I do believe this is quite a good pen but for this kind of job a cheap bowpen suitably smooothed with fine wet and dry before first use should be more than adequate. I've used Precision Paints Buffer Beam Red (dull) straight from the tin and used a fine brush to load the bowpen.

 

I appreciate that this kind of approach may not be suitable for everyone as it does require access to or purchase of a suitable instrument (do check that old geometry set first as you may already have such a pen). Nevertheless, my experiences with the transfers were so dire that it was either a case of using a bowpen or finishing the tender with no lining on the underframe. After a 125+ week project, the latter was just not acceptable to me.

 

Any other experiences?

 

Regards, Stan Owen

 

 

[pecksniff]

Apologies Jamie its 103 103 then 60103 dont know where the 105 came from

 

Ted

[pecksniff]

A pecksniff tip

 

If your having difficaulty trying to put tranfers on the driving wheel rims

 

Chuck the wheel in a small bowl of water, let the transfer float, then with 2 pair of good tweezers

 

bring the wheel up to the transfer, then remove and fiddle about till your happy.

 

worked for me, only another 5 to do. ( feedback would be nice )

 

"What do you want pictures.."

 

 

regards

 

Ted..

[ozzyo]

Going to get 2 nameplates one for the mullard and another name Sir somebody..

 

To Ted,

 

is mullard a misspelling or a new name, if you mean Mallard you will have a job fitting the nameplates to the center splashier, the other one Sir (Nigel?) somebody, same problem.

The following B.R. Nos. are all the A1s/3s that had Sir in the name, 60068 Sir Visto, 83 Sir Hugo, 102 Sir Frederick Banbury.

 

OzzyO.

[pecksniff]

Going to get 2 nameplates one for the mullard and another name Sir somebody..

 

To Ted,

 

is mullard a misspelling or a new name, if you mean Mallard you will have a job fitting the nameplates to the center splashier, the other one Sir (Nigel?) somebody, same problem.

The following B.R. Nos. are all the A1s/3s that had Sir in the name, 60068 Sir Visto, 83 Sir Hugo, 102 Sir Frederick Banbury.

 

OzzyO.

 

sorry Ozzyo

 

another spelling mistake its the Mallard and yes the Nameplates are straight not like the Flying Scotsman

I didn't clock the Sir but it could Banbury , hopefully pick them up tomorrow but they are only brass plate

and are coloured,

 

Ted..

[ozzyo]

sorry Ozzyo

 

another spelling mistake its the Mallard and yes the Nameplates are straight not like the Flying Scotsman

I didn't clock the Sir but it could Banbury , hopefully pick them up tomorrow but they are only brass plate

and are coloured,

 

Ted..

 

 

Ted,

 

I hope that you have an A4 for the Mallard plates to go on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

LOL

 

OzzyO.

[bushrat]

Hello all,

I have finally found time to do a bit more with the build, amongst other things having a go at casting metal replacement wheels to replace the 50% of mine that wobble. I am finally getting some half decent results.

 

In the course of playing about with the casting, I decided to see if I could make a better set of parts for the valve gear - the results are a bit alarming, as below.

 

I am casting using 2 metals, one is "JA12", which is a low melt alloy, and quite strong, the other is type metal, also quite strong. Now, I havent got to the stage of fitting these parts to mine yet, everything is sub-assemblies and so on, like most are doing, but I have noticed with both metals, that these parts are very weak, and bend easily. Brass would be better, but I do not have the gear to try it without blowing myself up or some similar calamity!

 

A little more stress and snappo they go!

 

So I started by fiddling about with the sprues of the parts supplied with the kit and - SAME RESULT!

 

I am becoming convinced that these parts will not last very long at all on a running model, there is no way they are going to stand up to any sort of fast or long running.

 

I am now looking at fabricating these parts from brass bar and tube and spending an eterninty with a needle file and a very big magnifying glass.

 

I know some of you have running chassis', so the question is, has anyone got a running chassis with the valve gear fitted, and if so, have there been any problems like bending or snapping? How long has it been run?

 

I also have concerns about the cylinders - with the motion of the valve gear, I cant see it staying together for too long no matter what sort of adhesive is used, so I am trying to figure out a plan to cast this in one piece as a replacement.

 

At this rate I'll have enough spare bits to make an extra as a static model anyway!

 

Anyone got some thoughts on this?

 

Attached are pics of my efforts so far, one of the tender wheels, not cleaned up and dressed as yet, but you get the idea.....

 

Bushrat.

[pecksniff]

Ozzyo

 

No mullard a4 I afraid I just want to know what the number plates say .( if the a4 is like this hatchette job arghhhhhhhh )

 

To Stan

 

Full marks for your appraisal on the transfers not many would say they made a right mess of it

to be honest how many have done it or part of it and how are you gettting on the input is getting appaling

come on lads..

 

Ted..

[ozzyo]

Ozzyo

 

No mullard a4 I afraid I just want to know what the number plates say .( if the a4 is like this hatchette job arghhhhhhhh )

 

 

Ted,

 

the number plate should say 60022, but the WORKS plate should say built Doncaster 1938 works No. 1870.

 

OzzyO.

[Stan Owen]

Hello all,

I have finally found time to do a bit more with the build, amongst other things having a go at casting metal replacement wheels to replace the 50% of mine that wobble. I am finally getting some half decent results.

 

In the course of playing about with the casting, I decided to see if I could make a better set of parts for the valve gear - the results are a bit alarming, as below.

 

I am casting using 2 metals, one is "JA12", which is a low melt alloy, and quite strong, the other is type metal, also quite strong. Now, I havent got to the stage of fitting these parts to mine yet, everything is sub-assemblies and so on, like most are doing, but I have noticed with both metals, that these parts are very weak, and bend easily. Brass would be better, but I do not have the gear to try it without blowing myself up or some similar calamity!

 

A little more stress and snappo they go!

 

So I started by fiddling about with the sprues of the parts supplied with the kit and - SAME RESULT!

 

I am becoming convinced that these parts will not last very long at all on a running model, there is no way they are going to stand up to any sort of fast or long running.

 

I am now looking at fabricating these parts from brass bar and tube and spending an eterninty with a needle file and a very big magnifying glass.

 

I know some of you have running chassis', so the question is, has anyone got a running chassis with the valve gear fitted, and if so, have there been any problems like bending or snapping? How long has it been run?

 

I also have concerns about the cylinders - with the motion of the valve gear, I cant see it staying together for too long no matter what sort of adhesive is used, so I am trying to figure out a plan to cast this in one piece as a replacement.

 

At this rate I'll have enough spare bits to make an extra as a static model anyway!

 

Anyone got some thoughts on this?

 

Attached are pics of my efforts so far, one of the tender wheels, not cleaned up and dressed as yet, but you get the idea.....

 

Bushrat.

 

Bushrat

 

Nice wheel casting!

 

I'm afraid that I can not really agree with you regarding the crossheads. Whilst this is a 7mm model, many of the models I have made in the past had whitemetal crossheads (softer than the supplied castings). Provided that the crossheads are not too tight and do not have too much slop, with a little "triflow" grase (or similar) they should last a considerable time before showing any substantial wear or need replacing.

 

I do agree that it would be better if these components were cast in a hard metal, preferably nickel silver. For those who want such items Laurie Griffin Miniatures (www.lgminiatures.co.uk) do produce Slidebars for LNER Gresley Locomotives (reference 10-1). He also does Cylinder Front Covers (reference 10-2) and Front Piston Valve Covers/Valve Guides (reference 10-3) and these are all cast in Nickel-Silver. Prices are £16 for the Slidebars (6 parts), £7 for the Cylinder Front Covers (2 parts) and £8 for the Front Piston Value Covers/Valve Guides (2 parts). I've used some of Laurie's castings in my own build (chimney, whistles, lamp irons, etc) and very nice they are too! These prices are from his Catalogue of July 2010 and he does UK and Overseas mail order. Visit his site if you're interested.

 

Re the valve gear fixing, etc., I was not happy with relying on glue to fix the crankpins in position so on each of the drivers I countersunk the front of the crankpin boss and used a nut on the front to tighten the crankpin bolts. When the coupling rod bushes are in place, this will be invisible. For all the other valve-gear joints, I've used the supplied nuts and bolts but soldered the nuts where appropriate. When I come to fit the valve gear for the last time, I shall solder the crank each side to the centre driver crankpin with a heatsink applied behind the crank to help keep heat away from the plastic wheel centre. For the other crankpin nuts, I shall lock these place with a spot of Loctite 601 retainer. Unlike "superglue", this will ensure that I can get the crankpin nuts off in the future should this be necessary.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards, Stan Owen

[Stan Owen]

Hello all,

I have finally found time to do a bit more with the build, amongst other things having a go at casting metal replacement wheels to replace the 50% of mine that wobble. I am finally getting some half decent results.

 

In the course of playing about with the casting, I decided to see if I could make a better set of parts for the valve gear - the results are a bit alarming, as below.

 

I am casting using 2 metals, one is "JA12", which is a low melt alloy, and quite strong, the other is type metal, also quite strong. Now, I havent got to the stage of fitting these parts to mine yet, everything is sub-assemblies and so on, like most are doing, but I have noticed with both metals, that these parts are very weak, and bend easily. Brass would be better, but I do not have the gear to try it without blowing myself up or some similar calamity!

 

A little more stress and snappo they go!

 

So I started by fiddling about with the sprues of the parts supplied with the kit and - SAME RESULT!

 

I am becoming convinced that these parts will not last very long at all on a running model, there is no way they are going to stand up to any sort of fast or long running.

 

I am now looking at fabricating these parts from brass bar and tube and spending an eterninty with a needle file and a very big magnifying glass.

 

I know some of you have running chassis', so the question is, has anyone got a running chassis with the valve gear fitted, and if so, have there been any problems like bending or snapping? How long has it been run?

 

I also have concerns about the cylinders - with the motion of the valve gear, I cant see it staying together for too long no matter what sort of adhesive is used, so I am trying to figure out a plan to cast this in one piece as a replacement.

 

At this rate I'll have enough spare bits to make an extra as a static model anyway!

 

Anyone got some thoughts on this?

 

Attached are pics of my efforts so far, one of the tender wheels, not cleaned up and dressed as yet, but you get the idea.....

 

Bushrat.

 

 

Bushrat

 

Sorry for the second post but I had similar problems with "wobbly" wheels as yourself although oddly enogh this seemed to be confined to the main drivers. One of the bogie wheels did have a loose tyre but running cyanoacrylate around the inside of the rim fixed that!

 

Whilst my drivers did not run true, they were not loose on the axles so I suspect that the machining on the ends of the axles leaves a little to be desired. I have now replaced the loco drivers with Slaters 120-degree axles for a 3-Cylinder loco and these are much tighter on the wheel centres, having all but eliminated the wobble. It is not exactly unusual to find that wheels do not run completely true (especially in 4mm) and I think that the plastic used to mould the driver boss/spokes supplied is far too tough to allow a lilttle gentle "persuasion" in the right direction.

 

I'm not sure where you are from but many top locomotive modellers in 7mm in the UK purchase machined metal drivers, produced to order and costing rather more than the outlay on this entire partwork! A little out of my league I am afraid, but for those building models worth thousands I suspect the cost is justifiable|.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards, Stan Owen

[redgauntlet]

To answer some of the questions on this page.

 

Tender buffer beam lining: I have a photograph of 4472 with the rear of the tender showing and I can confirm that the buffer beam (tender) IS lined, sadly there is no date so 1928-1937.

Source "East Coast pacifics at Work" P. N. Townend p72. On p73 there is a good shot of 4472 at Kings Cross on the first non-stop.

 

Numbering:When built 1472 renumberd to 4472 in 1924. Edward Thompson started an LNER renumbering scheme (although it didn't last long, 4472 became 501 on 20/1/1946, it was then renumbered 103 on 5/5/1946 and after nationalisation (1/1/1948) became 60103. It does seem that small detail differences existed between different class members e.g some wheels appear to be lined at different times, others were not, likewise tender buffer beams.

 

I am building two of these things (courtesy of my son who bought them) did anyone else have problems bending the nickle silver? Of eight sections of the valve spindles, I snapped six and had make replacements. I trust that evreryone knows that waterslide transfers are easiest to apply on GLOSS or semi gloss paint and hopeless on matt.

[Stan Owen]

To answer some of the questions on this page.

 

Tender buffer beam lining: I have a photograph of 4472 with the rear of the tender showing and I can confirm that the buffer beam (tender) IS lined, sadly there is no date so 1928-1937.

Source "East Coast pacifics at Work" P. N. Townend p72. On p73 there is a good shot of 4472 at Kings Cross on the first non-stop.

 

Numbering:When built 1472 renumberd to 4472 in 1924. Edward Thompson started an LNER renumbering scheme (although it didn't last long, 4472 became 501 on 20/1/1946, it was then renumbered 103 on 5/5/1946 and after nationalisation (1/1/1948) became 60103. It does seem that small detail differences existed between different class members e.g some wheels appear to be lined at different times, others were not, likewise tender buffer beams.

 

I am building two of these things (courtesy of my son who bought them) did anyone else have problems bending the nickle silver? Of eight sections of the valve spindles, I snapped six and had make replacements. I trust that evreryone knows that waterslide transfers are easiest to apply on GLOSS or semi gloss paint and hopeless on matt.

 

Redgauntlet

 

Thanks for the information re the tender lining but I was actually referring to the tender drawbeam (i.e. that next to the loco). I suspect that there are few, if any, photographs showing this as the tender would need to be decoupled from the loco for this end to be seen

 

Stan Owen

[bushrat]

Bushrat

 

Sorry for the second post but I had similar problems with "wobbly" wheels as yourself although oddly enogh this seemed to be confined to the main drivers. One of the bogie wheels did have a loose tyre but running cyanoacrylate around the inside of the rim fixed that!

 

Whilst my drivers did not run true, they were not loose on the axles so I suspect that the machining on the ends of the axles leaves a little to be desired. I have now replaced the loco drivers with Slaters 120-degree axles for a 3-Cylinder loco and these are much tighter on the wheel centres, having all but eliminated the wobble. It is not exactly unusual to find that wheels do not run completely true (especially in 4mm) and I think that the plastic used to mould the driver boss/spokes supplied is far too tough to allow a lilttle gentle "persuasion" in the right direction.

 

I'm not sure where you are from but many top locomotive modellers in 7mm in the UK purchase machined metal drivers, produced to order and costing rather more than the outlay on this entire partwork! A little out of my league I am afraid, but for those building models worth thousands I suspect the cost is justifiable|.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards, Stan Owen

 

Hi Stan,

 

You are correct about all of the above. When I fitted the drivers and spun them up I was horrified, mine were wobbling out about 3mm out of true. I then had to wait until I had enough axles and wheels to try and get to the bottom of it, and heres what I found.

 

There seem to be slight differences in the machined axle ends, one might be ok whilst the next is a hair smaller, this is why (I think) some wheels wobble and some dont. My first line of attack was to try to build up the axle end with solder. After many attempts, I finally got solder to just hang onto the axle, but it fell off when I tried to file it back to size.

 

My second thought was to put just a dab of solder on the brass wheel bush and do the reverse. Thought to myself, "self, you better use low melt solder and a 20 watt iron". BIG MISTAKE! After about 2 seconds, the brass centre popped up and out of the plastic casting in a rearwards direction, and as quick as I was with a small block of wood on a flat surface, it now of course wobbles worse than before.

 

So, if you are going to solder anywhere near the plastic on these wheels please be aware that they will take VERY LITTLE HEAT before things start to go south.

 

I experimented with a few other ideas to fix this, such as the application of thin wall heat shrink tube to the axles which would have worked but they were all too thick, building them up with solder as above, metal cement, which wouldnt stick, etc.

 

With recasting, the best part is that a coat of model paint on the inside of the wheel boss prior to making the mould reduces the inside size of the hub, and of course this is reflected in the finished casting. If the finished wheel still has a wobble, simply apply a little pressure in the right spot and it will go into place.

 

Of course, there is the small problem on a running model that if cast wheels were place on opposite sides a short circuit would occur (unless you were running 3 rail)! so all the cast wheels would have to be on the same side, but that shouldnt be a problem.

 

Hopefully as you say the valve gear parts are ok, they just dont feel right to me, anyhow I suppose we will see!

 

It's a bit sad really to see these problems crop up, as with a little better quality control, and a bit more forethought and planning, this kit would have been so much better to build. Hopefully if they do another they might consider a survey of those who built this one to get some constructive feedback.

 

Rattus Australis Horribillus

[pecksniff]

What is the point of telling you to paint it in one format if the tranfers dont go on

are DJH and Hatchette totally moronic ..

This highly regarded team of British specialist should be doing somehing else misinformed and not understaning

trains is my domain..

 

To OzzyO

 

The nameplates were Mallard and Sir Nigel Gresley only one black plate for the Mallard with B.R Number

the Sir Nigel Gresley too small to read but possibly the right number as it wasent made by Hatchette

I also picked up a gaugemaster 2.5 amp for £30 secondhand..

 

To Stan

 

Everthing airbrush is awaiting delivery but mentioned you name hope you didnt mind..

 

Catch you later folks

 

Ted..

[ozzyo]

What is the point of telling you to paint it in one format if the tranfers dont go on

are DJH and Hatchette totally moronic ..

This highly regarded team of British specialist should be doing somehing else misinformed and not understaning

trains is my domain..

 

To OzzyO

 

The nameplates were Mallard and Sir Nigel Gresley only one black plate for the Mallard with B.R Number

the Sir Nigel Gresley too small to read but possibly the right number as it wasent made by Hatchette

I also picked up a gaugemaster 2.5 amp for £30 secondhand..

 

To Stan

 

Everthing airbrush is awaiting delivery but mentioned you name hope you didnt mind..

 

Catch you later folks

 

Ted..

 

 

Ted,

 

the black plate is the front numberplate and the No. for Mallard is 60022 the Works plates are small oval plates that fit on the cab sides, you should have two of them.

Sir Nigel Gresley was numbered 60007 and had the works number 1863, built Doncaster 1937.

Both these locos are class A4s, so the plates are no use on the Hachette A1/A3. As this thread is about the A1/A3 Flying Jock (sorry to all north of the border) you have now gotten me a bit confused, or do you not know the difference (sorry if I appear to be talking down to you, but it is not my intent). I'm just trying to get my head around it all.

 

OzzyO.

[pecksniff]

To OzzYO

 

The plates where just a talking point no intention of putting them on the Scottie, I was trying to find

out how true these plates were to the names, as the Scottie has got 1471 works plate ..

This is a debate going back a few steps its not a matter of A1/A3 or A4 just an accurency matter

as to what the actual number of the Scottie was in 1928 it certainly wasn,t 1471

Hope this clears the matter up for you..

Still on a learning curve..

 

regards

 

Ted..

[ozzyo]

To OzzYO

 

The plates where just a talking point no intention of putting them on the Scottie, I was trying to find

out how true these plates were to the names, as the Scottie has got 1471 works plate ..

This is a debate going back a few steps its not a matter of A1/A3 or A4 just an accurency matter

as to what the actual number of the Scottie was in 1928 it certainly wasn,t 1471

Hope this clears the matter up for you..

Still on a learning curve..

 

regards

 

Ted..

 

 

Hi Ted,

 

F/S, when built first carried the running No. 1472 [1923], then 4472 [approx 1924], then 501? [approx1946], then 103 [approx late 1946], then 60103 [approx 1949], in all that time it still had the WORKS number 1564.

 

I think that the works plates were etched with what was though to be the first running number if that was the case a big cock up, the works plates have always had 1564 on them, its not as though the loco is a shrinking violet.

In 1928 F/S. Carried the running No. 4472, and Works No. 1564.

Hope this helps you Ted.

 

OzzyO.