richbrummitt Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 There are probably many more people reading your thread than you can imagine! 6585 views (when I clicked to write this) suggest otherwise. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 Hi All, Thanks for all the kind words - it is nice to know that this thread is being enjoyed. By way of my next instalment title, let me pose a question: What would happen if you combined the GWR C&W Works and Ikea? The V36 was not anything to do with an early attempt at outdoing the Swedish furniture industry. It was actually a wartime economy measure to speed up production. Think of it as the De Havilland Mosquito of goods wagons... The plywood replaced all of the outside planking including that on the doors but using the standard wagon upper and lower frames. There was also extra longitudinal bits added to the underframe too. After the war, this gave rise to another two batches of plywood bodied wagons in both fitted and unfitted flavours. The lucky survivor at Didcot is a fitted V38 with screw link couplings. The V37 & V38s were begun by the GWR but by the time No. W146366 was completed in 1948; the new order in the shape of BR had begun. No. W146366 is in full working order and stretches its legs occasionally in the demonstration goods trains at the railway centre. So, where to start with little No.146366? Thankfully Ratio gives us a great leg up in the form of their GWR goods van kit No. 565. As I said in my write up of my V34 build - the vast majority of the vans from the kits intended diagram of V24 (except V36,7 & 8 with the ply sides of course!) are pretty similar so: Ratio Kit - Check! Various sections of styrene strip - Check! Replacement buffers - Check! Coffee machine on - Check! Let battle commence... The body sides and ends have to be made new as filling in the planking is really a non starter and the doors on the ply versions have an outer frame that would be difficult to do on the existing mouldings. To that end, a scrap of thick styrene sheet provided enough to make the blanks for the new ends and sides. I also fitted the buffers, made the hole for the couplings and scribed out the top line of the buffer beam. The sides and ends were then assembled and reinforced with the use of 'L' section styrene. I then trialled the roof and floor while the liquid adhesive was still ever so slightly soft so that I could check that the roof fitted and it all looked square and correct. The detailing of the new body was next on the agenda. I started with the uprights on the ends and sides in Plastruct 'T' section strips. Then the corners were also done with the 'L' section strips. The ends were next to do and I started by doing the end roof hoops. To do these, I took a piece of straight micro strip of the correct size and slowly curved it between my fingers by pulling it through again and again. As long as you don't expect too much of a curve too quickly it saves cutting a curved bit out of a sheet. Careful cajoling and use of the original as a pattern... ...resulted in this as an attempted replica! Diagonals were next. Then it was running chassis time! Two rectangular sections of styrene were used as stops to set the chassis unit at the correct height. Two vent shapes were fashioned and fitted. I did these by just cutting the shape of the vent out and then putting a piece of thin styrene strip under one end to stand it off and create the angle. Various micro strips were used to detail the door areas and build up the door lintel, hinges and locking gear. Etched brass coupling eyes and lamp irons were fitted to the ends. The detail was fitted to the under frame including a dart castings vacuum cylinder. The ratio one is built up from about 4 separate bits which seem to me at least, a bit like just trying to up the kits parts count! Dart castings one = two bits, a huge leap in detail and extra weight for the van built in. No contest for a lazy so and so such as myself! The usual liquid gravity was poured in here closely followed by some thin superglue and accelerator. Then it was time for a final trial fitting of all the bits before we trundle off to the paint shop for a dose of primer and then, unusually, a light coat of gloss varnish. This is so I can have a go a riveting. Despite my obvious original intention to use Minly Trains etched wagon detail, this became my first try with Archer Rivet Transfers and I have to say that I was impressed. They were easy to use, stuck well on the whole and looked great even without the top coat on. I managed to get most of the prototype rivets on but the T sections defeated me as the styrene 'I' sections were a little thicker in the centre than scale so I decide that discretion was the better part of valour and chickened out! I will definitely be using these again... I then had a go with paints, transfers and weathering materials as per the V34 diagram so I won't bore my readers to death by repeating myself. This is one of the few liveries that I can produce straight from preservation as the real No. 146366 is in its earliest possible livery of the immediately post nationalisation version of the GWR freight grey with the W regional prefix. Well there we are - I threw away the 4 major and complex components of a kit that I paid good money for and then spent hours making new ones! This is a bizarre hobby we have here at times isn't it? At least I have a van that is a little different from the normal Ratio kit built one. A grounded van body as the next project I suppose. I have to take a trip to the dark side now to finish off the bulk of my fitted van train before I go into the Toad A zone - I'm going out, I may be some time... All the best, Castle 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 That's an excellent piece of scratch building. How long did it take? I do like the plywood sided vans, they look very modern to me. Here's a photo of my Parkside version in 7mm: 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hi Kev, I guess it took about 5 - 6 hours to do but that time included snacking, TV watching and probably the odd snooze too! Not all at once either... I like to have a few different things on the go for several reasons. Firstly to keep my interest going and secondly to allow for things to dry, parts to come in, etc... Your O gauge version is excellent - well done! Parkside do some great vehicles in 7mm. Many of which I could have used in 4mm scale for stocking Little Didcot. Tevan, Mogo and the Plywood van included. The trouble is that the only vehicles left to do in the fitted freight train apart from the Toad now are the two LMS ventilated vans that live out the back of the locomotive works. They are vans Jim, but not as we know them... We are going off region! All the best, Castle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 That's good going. I usually have the telly on while modelling, so I'm not always as productive as I could be! The Parkside O gauge range covers a good range of wagons. They're very enjoyable to build. Which diagram Toad are you going to build? I've nearly finished the diagram AA3 that my sister bought me for xmas. So photo's of that my appear soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hi Kev, I have built the etched AA3 kit from Frogmore to build No. 56400 (I must post that up here at some point...) but the current one is to Diagram AA21 which is the fitted Toad A. To build No. 17447 I am going to start with the good old and most ubiquitous Ratio kit and go from there. It is vaguely to one of the AA20 something diagrams (!) so a Dart Vacuum cylinder and a few Frogmore detail bits should see us to something that looks about right. I have started the thrilling task of removing the moulded handrails - I suggest QI as good 'watching' here as you don't have to look at the screen to get the enjoyment out of having it on the goggle box. I tend to keep more operable fingers this way! All the best, Castle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted August 22, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2012 Parkside do some great vehicles in 7mm. Many of which I could have used in 4mm scale for stocking Little Didcot. Tevan, Mogo and the Plywood van included. Have to agree there, they have lots of diagrams in 7mm that are not available anywhere in 4mm. I was trying to persuade them to scale down the N28 to 4mm when I was at Railex, but somehow don't think a lone voice was good enough. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hi Ric, They are doing a Mica in 4mm scale soon and what with that and the lovely new Mink A kits, we GWR / BR (W) types shouldn't be too upset about it all I suppose. It is always the way though isn't it? The one you want is always available conveniently in not your scale! All the best, Castle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Evening Castle. Once I get my Toad finished I'll see if I can get around to putting some photo's up on my blog. It's a Connoisseur Models kit in etched brass, so there were lots of lovely handrails to make from brass wire. QI is certainly good modelling telly. Althought I've seen so many of the repeats on Dave I now know most of the answers! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Evening Kev, There are all new repeats on Dave at the moments so I can catch up on all the ones that my faltering Sky box failed to record... I suppose that if you know all the answers now you must rank as a pub quiz master! I look forward to your Toad write up - good stuff! I don't know if you have done a Mica in 7mm yet but the handrails in 4mm scale were 'quite interesting' and not in the Steven Fry sort of a way... I am not sorry that the Tevan only has one per end either! I have a few handrails to do on the AA21 too but I am hoping that only having bends in one plane might be a bit easier than the Mica. All the the best, Castle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Ah yes. I know what you mean about those curved end handrails, they take a fair bit of patience to get right. I've not done a Mica, but I think I did a good job on my Siphon G: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1151/entry-9961-7mm-scorpio-outside-framed-siphon-g/ 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Those are the tricky little devils that I meant - you know my pain then! To be fair to the David Geen kits I built, there is an excellent drawing in the instructions that shows you how to do them with radii and curves and constructional tips. They are just a bit of a convoluted shape in 1:1 scale. Good job on those wagons by the way, very nice indeed Kev. All the best, Castle 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 To be fair to the David Geen kits I built, there is an excellent drawing in the instructions that shows you how to do them with radii and curves and constructional tips. Oh the decadance! No such luxury with the Scorpio 7mm kit. Thanks for your kind words with regards to my wagons. I particularly enjoy building rolling stock and always have a few wagons at various stages of being built. I should be putting a few more blog entries up soon, 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Evening Castle. Once I get my Toad finished I'll see if I can get around to putting some photo's up on my blog. It's a Connoisseur Models kit in etched brass, so there were lots of lovely handrails to make from brass wire. QI is certainly good modelling telly. Althought I've seen so many of the repeats on Dave I now know most of the answers! The handrails are an absolute pain with the Peco toad too. I reckon whatever time spent on the rest of the kit was exceeded by those rails. Same with Parkside horse box 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 The handrails are an absolute pain with the Peco toad too. I reckon whatever time spent on the rest of the kit was exceeded by those rails. Same with Parkside horse box Oh yes. It does take a while to bend them all to the correct length. My Connoisseur Toad had 18 to make. The kit that took me the longest to do all the hand rails on was the Slaters BR/LNER 20ton brake van. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Hi All, It looks like there is an opportunity for a really clever jig type thing that will sell rather well. RMWEB innovation challenge prize anyone? All the best, Castle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 I got a nice little jig from Eileens. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 I got a nice little jig from Eileens. That'll be these then. 4mm: https://www.eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=286&Itemid=9 7mm: https://www.eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=287&Itemid=9 (I really wish the folks at Eileen's would do away with the disappearing green glowing cursor.) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Hi All, I was thinking about a jig to do those pesky little GWR Mica type blighters but that looks like a very useful bit of kit indeed - thanks for showing it to us Paul! All the best, Castle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 Hi All, A few loco maintenance tips. As a 'special edition' of Little Didcot, here is a how to do it for those of you out there with the Hornby or Dapol Britannia Class engine. You could find you have trouble with the front bogie so the removal of this item is an important thing to know about. Here is one we borrowed to show you how. Firstly, get your locomotive onto your work bench. Ensure that your model is placed in the right place under your OO or N Gauge hoist. Take time to remove all of the fixings that keep the bogie in place. You may have to do this from under your workbench if you don't have access to a pit like the one at 81E. Once you have done this, use your hoist to lift your engine high enough to roll your bogie out from under your engine. You will have to lift quite high to get the bogie out. Here you can see that all 6 driving wheels have left the ground. Once the loco is high enough, simply roll the bogie out of the way and carry out the required work. Once you have reassembled your engine, it is always a good idea to test it. It is a great idea to compare its performance against one of you other locos. Here, a Churchward Mogul is being used but anything similar will do. Be sure to run your engine over all sorts of track work on your layout. Here we can see the loco going over a set of points. Also a go on the turntable won't hurt. Once you are happy you can then release your engine back to traffic! I hope this is useful to all you BR standard modellers out there. All the best, Castle 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Is it finescale? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 Hi Coldgunner, Well, it is entirely authentic and 100% prototypical for a 2012 model of 70000... And before you ask it's in 12" : 1' scale! All the best, Castle 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Well, I'd love to know where to get transfers for the tender lining What was up with her anyway? I remember when she was based at the NVR all those years ago. I'm getting old... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 (edited) The bogie wasn't riding quite right so they decided to call in and use the facillities! All better now though... All the best, Castle Edit: The lion and wheel on the Mogul's tender are from Fox if that helps! Edited September 1, 2012 by Castle 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 I bet it's not DCC ready! Great post Castle. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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