Kirkby Luneside (Original): End of the line....

[Physicsman]

Have you had enough yet?

 

Right, here's how the bridges are positioned - with the aqueduct wall showing on the top. Remember, the base of the aqueduct is 8 feet above the bridge road deck.

 

 

 

 

The next stumbling block is the WING WALLS - front and rear - for the main bridge. I'm going to make these today and fit them to the bridge when ready. This then allows the bridge to be fixed into place and the cuttings joined in. Then rocks can go on.

 

Of course, the bridges will have to be painted. and the eagle-eyed amongst you will have spotted that the branch bridge needs coping stones....

 

I'm getting there!!!!

 

Jeff

 

[uax6]

Jeff, not sure if you have mentioned this since the raising of the aquaduct, but how is the trackway going to fit in with this new raised height?

 

Also, now seeing them in position I'm wondering if they are deep enough? I was seeing the mainline one as being quite close to that turnout, but now I see they are further back, I wonder if they would be a tad more convincing if you added another 2" to their depth, so that the water- and track- ways looked a bit more like the real thing (that has come out sounding patronising, which it's not meant to be), I'm just consecerned that the trackway and the change in levels on the top is going to look too cramped.

 

It is really coming together as a scene now. Any chances of photos that show it from along Lunefell so that we can see how it fits into the bigger picture please?

 

Andy G

 

(who's lost his modelling mojo today)

[Physicsman]

Jeff, not sure if you have mentioned this since the raising of the aquaduct, but how is the trackway going to fit in with this new raised height?

 

Also, now seeing them in position I'm wondering if they are deep enough? I was seeing the mainline one as being quite close to that turnout, but now I see they are further back, I wonder if they would be a tad more convincing if you added another 2" to their depth, so that the water- and track- ways looked a bit more like the real thing (that has come out sounding patronising, which it's not meant to be), I'm just consecerned that the trackway and the change in levels on the top is going to look too cramped.

 

It is really coming together as a scene now. Any chances of photos that show it from along Lunefell so that we can see how it fits into the bigger picture please?

 

Andy G

 

(who's lost his modelling mojo today)

 

Hi Andy - I assume you are referring to the dirt track I was planning to put on top to let vehicles over?

 

The simple answer - it's been scrapped! There will be room for a pedestrian walkway, but - having fitted the arch liners - the depth of the bridges is set. There's also not a lot of room for manoeuvre with fitting the bridges into the scene - as I found today when I tried to gain 2cm to push the bridges back from the turnout.

 

So the scene is basically a conduit to carry the aqueduct, with a pathway. Not quite as in the prototype, but I'm battling too many factors here and something has to give.

 

The aqueduct was meant as the primary "scenic break", so it's that that I'm concentrating on.

 

I'll get you a pic or two viewed along the Fell within the next 20 minutes. You may not see much - the cutting curves out of sight very nicely!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Here you are, Andy.

 

I took a photo from further toward the viaduct end of the Fell - you can't see anything!

 

So I hope these help - the main bridge was removed to the kitchen before I took these!

 

 

 

Jeff

[uax6]

Ah, I see now. I think having a path is perfectly acceptable compromise, as it means that you don't have to have another wall, you can just have a terrace in the water bank. Looking good BTW

 

Andy G

[Donw]

Looks quite believeable to me Jeff a reasonable amount of soil to hold the base of the aqueduct. I think this will make a great feature.

Don

[Physicsman]

Ah, I see now. I think having a path is perfectly acceptable compromise, as it means that you don't have to have another wall, you can just have a terrace in the water bank. Looking good BTW

 

Andy G

 

Yes, and the thought of another wall was driving me nuts!

 

If you look back to post #6469 you'll see that I was considering a front wall. I could still do a smaller wall, but was planning on running a fence across. Bit like this, cross-section view:

 

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Looks quite believeable to me Jeff a reasonable amount of soil to hold the base of the aqueduct. I think this will make a great feature.

Don

 

Cheers Don. I hope it meets expectations!

 

As with all these things, the final reality can be different from how it's envisaged. The suggestion of an aqueduct - was it Peter? - has led to a lot of very enjoyable work!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Update: I've cut out the wing wall sections, using 3mm and 2mm ply, and will cover them with dressed stone plastikard later this evening.

 

             The stone on the vertical pillars (adjacent to the portal) has been cut accordingly, to allow the wing walls to be attached - at a slant.

 

             The "rate-controlling step" is the fact that I'll have to apply filler to blend the wing walls in. So the bridge may be ready for painting by Thursday.

 

             I'll post some pics of this work when I get the wing-walls ready for fitting.

 

             My DCC sound Black 5 is due tomorrow or Thursday. Play time!

 

Jeff

[Andrew P]

Hahahahaha  Jeff, to many pics to look through now as I am Knackered so I will catch tomorrow but after a quick look the rocks look really good.

 

Polly has just had a go at me about my rocks so I need to read this and make notes.

 

Bodgit the Student of Physics and rocks

[robmcg]

More relief from rocks, cropped picture of Jubilee 45587 'Baroda'.  Still waiting for weathered version of this and other S&C type Jubilee and Patriots.

I like the clean look.   Fireman doesn't look overly pleased.

 

when I loaded this pic one page back Coachmann said he wasn't sure what meant by something or other, perhaps the term I used, 'loco preparation man', since edited out. I was referring to loco prep gang on shed which included cleaners, passed cleaners, fire-raisers and so on.

 

 

edit, oh joy! parcel arrived at door, I am stuck in bed right now, slight skin issue, and Jan is out buying food, but I suspect is weathered Jubilee 'Kolhapur' and weathered crimson LMS unrebuilt Patriot. On the other hand it could be a book ... Irwell 'Book of the Jubilee 4-6-0'

Edited May 21, 2013 by robmcg

[peach james]

The fireman looks sad because the driver just said that the fireman wasted about 200 lb of coal !...and he's no-where near the train...oh, and he'd kindly, please, put the injector on, and then add another 20 shovels full to replace what he just wasted...or about that.  Usually accompanied by a thwack across the head from the driver, I'd imagine...at least, if the fireman is junior enough.  (not like a top link passed fireman, but just the regular crowd moving up the links)

 

James

[robmcg]

Indeed you have it right kind sir, that blowing off steam while still on the blower is a complete waste of everything, but it looks impressive.

 

I should have left the safety valves clear, to be more 'real'.

 

Cheers,

 

Rob

 

edit, the thump at the door was the two new engines from TMC...   great stuff, that means LOTS of S&C type scenes are possible. I should mention that I have over-done computer picture editing this last wee while and can feel it in my arm, and I am very aware of repetitive strain injury,  I should get more into rock appreciation and aqueduct design.

Edited May 21, 2013 by robmcg

[uax6]

Jeff, just had a quick thought, are you going to ballast the cuttings before you plant the bridge permanently? Could be quite tricky if you don't.....

 

BTW what sort of fence are you thinking about putting on the path? I would be tempted not to bother, and have the path a bit down the face of the bank, terraced into it.

 

 

Andy g

 

(edited to change a g to a k)

Edited May 22, 2013 by uax6

[Physicsman]

Jeff, just had a quick thought, are you going to ballast the cuttings before you plant the bridge permanently? Could be quite tricky if you don't.....

 

BTW what sort of fence are you thinking about putting on the path? I would be tempted not to bother, and have the path a bit down the face of the bank, terraced into it.

 

 

Andy g

 

(edited to change a g to a k)

 

Not a bad idea, Andy. Anything that saves me more work is appreciated. And it is the 1960s - so "Elf and Safetie" might not have insisted on walls/fences etc in triplicate to prevent people intent on suicide doing themselves in!

 

I WILL ballast the cutting areas before final fixing - but a bit of extra weathering can be applied later. Which reminds me - I've got lots of "00" ballast in stock, but need to order some "N" for the job. I'll do that today.

 

This morning's job is to glue the wing walls onto to main structure.

 

Jeff 

[Physicsman]

Rob - you are a very bad lad! I'm hoping to have my own package arrive from TMC today, but you are tempting me to buy even more.

 

I received confirmation from Hattons yesterday that the 2 A4s I ordered from "The Great Gathering" are due late July/August. So I'll have to start budgeting for those....

 

Umm.... temptation!

 

Nice pics - as usual, btw. Look forward to seeing Kolhapur.

 

Jeff

[Jason T]

I agree, weather the track and ballast the area before getting everything down as it'll be a pain afterwards. A quick fix weathering is to simply spray with a rattle can of Railmatch Sleeper Grime, rails and all; you can then paint the rail sides in a different shade afterwards if required (although hidden in a cutting, you could maybe not bother and save yourself some effort).

 

As for ballasting, I use Carrs 2mm Light Grey, along with Carrs Ash Ballast for the cess although the latter is a tad light. Not sure if you have cut a shoulder in at the edge of the ballast but I found it easier to lay the cess first and then the ballast up to the edge / bottom of the shoulder so that it slightly overlaps the cess. For the period you are depicting, the ballast edge should be kept very neat and tidy and not just have ballast chucked everywhere. 

 

I thought I would very quickly glue down some track and add ballast and a cess to show you the colours and size of the Carrs products I use, and then whilst doing it, I thought I would try a bit with some real ash. No shoulder here (it was a very quick experiment), track not painted and it's stuck on double sided sticky tape (hence the missing bits) but hopefully it will show what I wanted. I'm not really convinced with the real ash; I'm wondering whether Woodland Scenics fine cinders (almost black) may look better?

 

 

Edited to add the link to C&L - Carrs

http://www.finescale.org.uk/

Edited May 22, 2013 by Sandside

[The Stationmaster]

One point about ash ballast and cesses is that they depended on the type of material used (e.g smokebox char was not quite the same as ashpan ash) and the colour varied not only with the type of material used but also according to the weather - with paths in particular - going darker when wet.

[uax6]

Jason,

 

What method do you use to attach photos to the thread, as here in work I can't see them, and at home I just don't have the time to sit at the computer.

 

If anyone wants real ash, let me know as I can always get you some from the rayburn when I have it lit!

 

BTW has anyone noticed the boxes under our names <-- I don't see the need for them.

 

Andy g

[Physicsman]

Morning Jason.

 

Ironic - a few minutes before I read your post I'd been on the Howes site and ordered a couple of aerosols of Rail Grime.

 

I've also ordered some 2mm fine grey-blend ballast - I use Woodland Scenics. I'll have to conduct an experiment or two to see whether to put PVA in first or by "dropper". I know you use Copydex - may get round to that at a later stage!

 

Jeff

 

ps If you look at post #6527 (view under the bridge) you'll see the cork underlay forms a shoulder. I'll trim this closer to the track before ballasting.

[Physicsman]

Jason,

 

What method do you use to attach photos to the thread, as here in work I can't see them, and at home I just don't have the time to sit at the computer.

 

If anyone wants real ash, let me know as I can always get you some from the rayburn when I have it lit!

 

BTW has anyone noticed the boxes under our names <-- I don't see the need for them.

 

Andy g

 

Andy - they have JUST appeared.

 

I HATE this kind of thing - ESPECIALLY WHEN I DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY STAND FOR!!

 

Jeff

[Jason T]

Here's what C&L say about PVA. They do seem to suggest using the dropper method though, which surprised me (painting the glue in takes much longer but is far, far neater)

 

"Once laid, the ballast should be secured in place without delay. Our suggestion is not use diluted PVA! Why? Well it does have disadvantages. For instance, once dry, it can give the ballast an unnatural glossy look and sets like rock!

Instead use a latex glue such as Copydex, diluted with about 4 volumes of water. Note - Your local carpet shop will sell you a 5 litre drum of Latex quite cheaply. It will last forever and is ideal for many gluing operations. Pre wet the ballast by spraying over lightly with water and then dribble the water/latex solution by means of an eyedropper. Clean up if necessary, as soon as the glue is dry. Pick off any remaining blobs or bits of ballast which have got above the sleepers or onto the sides of the rail."

With my last layout, I used the PVA and dropper method and with 2mm & ash ballast, I had a devil of a job to try and keep it in place and looking ok; I sprayed the water on to dampen it and the ballast (Woodland Scenics that time) would all form together into little, crappy looking clumps that were a swine to get rid of. That is the main reason I went for the method I used with Bacup (idea gleaned from Gordon S and Captain Kernow). Is it worth the extra effort? Very much so. Another factor is the thickness of sleepers with SMP track - it needs treating with more care and attention than Peco.

[Jason T]

As for the boxes, I presume that they will show your score (e.g. number of Likes) when updated. Personally, I am of the opinion that post counts and scores detract from the friendly feeling of forums as there is a tendency for people to pay more attention to members with higher counts, when they could just have written a load of old ###### that others liked, over a long period.  However, there are other forum members who really like features such as these and it may be a draw to newer members.

 

Edit - it is nice to get 'Likes' though

Edited May 22, 2013 by Sandside

[Jason T]

Jason,

 

What method do you use to attach photos to the thread, as here in work I can't see them, and at home I just don't have the time to sit at the computer.

 

 

Andy g

 

Hi Andy,

 

all my photos are on Photobucket, I just copy and paste the links over. One reason for this is if I need them for anything else (I have posted on a couple of other forums in the past). Sorry if you can't see them; wonder why not?

 

If anyone is interested in looking at a load of my crappy photos of Bacup, the previous layout and various other bits and pieces, then (i) you must be mad and have too much time on your hands, and (ii) here you go: http://s686.photobucket.com/

[Rowsley17D]

Back to the ballasting debate. When I wet the laid ballast prior to adding dilute latex,I put a drop of washing-up liquid in the spray bottle. If you use neat water, the surface tension causes the ballast to form globules as Jason has said, with washing-up liquid, no surface tension so the balast stays put. You need a spray bottle that produces a very light mist so as not to "blow" the ballast out of place.