georgeT Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 I am sure that you can make it look good George, after all they are a pretty basic, but powerful looking design - I love Em Cheers. Bob. Yes you are correct Bob they were pretty basic but having said that you would be surprised at the amount of details and pipework they had... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 Looks OK to me George, what's the matter with it? John Just a bad session at the bench that's all John, things not going as l had planned, but l will get the Q1 looking big and powerful in the end l hope....Hahahaha 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Looks good mate, but like Charlie K said, all kits are just an aid to scratch building. Keep it going mate Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 Hello Andy, Just had a bad day yesterday nothing went right, we all have one of those days once in a while, anyway having a break from the J94 and spending time on the Q1, no steps so l have had to make them myself, now the front end is starting to look the part ?... 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 As Andy said, kits are aids to scratchbuilding. It is satisfying to make missing parts. The Q1 is looking very good. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKR Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Lol with the best will in the world you can't call a Q1good looking..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Nice work on the Steps mate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 l think they have a look of power with no thrills, they were the most powerful 0-6-0 at the time when they were needed during WW2 and my were they used, flogged to dead almost, you never ever saw a clean one. Made some good progress with Charlie, but had to make a few parts like the cab floor etc etc but as guys have said a kit is only an aid to scratch building....how true that statement is heres a few pictures of the build. l haven't punched out the rivet details as l will use some Archers rivets when finished.... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted June 7, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) Exactly what I do. Put the frets on the shower tray and spray them with Barkeepers. Leave for a few minutes then wash clean. Come up like new. Hi Does this work for built models that haven't been painted yet? What effect would it have on Resin or Araldite? Cheers Paul Edited June 7, 2017 by PaulCheffus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobster Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Superb George - Looking great already. Cheers, Bob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 I like Archer rivet transfers, great for covering up boo boos. I've never heard of them used as primary rivets where provision has been made to push them out. Creating the half etched rivets can be murder on your hand if you're pushing and twisting as is often recommended. I'm just doing a wagon where there are a gabazillion rivets to be pushed out. I'm finding a couple of light taps with a small hammer on the scribe does a decent job. Curious to know your reason George. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 I like Archer rivet transfers, great for covering up boo boos. I've never heard of them used as primary rivets where provision has been made to push them out. Creating the half etched rivets can be murder on your hand if you're pushing and twisting as is often recommended. I'm just doing a wagon where there are a gabazillion rivets to be pushed out. I'm finding a couple of light taps with a small hammer on the scribe does a decent job. Curious to know your reason George. John Hello John, The brass used is really thin and distorts it too much even with a light tap, l have seen the Archers rivets used a few times with good results, never tried them before.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Yes, care is required, you don't want to punch through. Archer are probably a good choice. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 Yes, care is required, you don't want to punch through. Archer are probably a good choice. John Morning John, The resin body hasn't got any rivet details either, so l will have to do the whole loco, having said that l have added some rivet details on the tender chassis.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Which Livery have you settled on mate, Early / Late BR or Southern Sunshine? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 Morning Andy, The Q1 will be in late 60s condition where you could hardly see the number through the s**t, thats how l remember them, still a long way to go yet (things could change) Hahahahaha. l have almost finished the tender, just have to sort the roof out, also working out the electrics on the loco, should both visit the paint shop today (Hopefully)..... 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKR Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Are you going to spring the chassis George? I've found Jazz & Sandy's method using piano wire works really well and takes little time to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) My Bachmaann Brassworks 4F, And Hornby Q1 Edited June 8, 2017 by Andrew P 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 To be honest EKR l have gone too far in the build to change anything now, plus l have never tried to spring a chassis up yet, certainly worth thinking about on my next build (will need some guidance).... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 My Bachmaann Brassworks 4F, 4F and Wagons 003.JPG And Hornby Q1 Q1 Weathering 028.JPG Q1 Weathering 040.JPG Spot on with the Charlie Andy, that's just the finish l am looking for... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 To be honest EKR l have gone too far in the build to change anything now, plus l have never tried to spring a chassis up yet, certainly worth thinking about on my next build (will need some guidance).... Hi George, The method EKR mentions is very simple as it only involves elongating the centre axle bearing holes and adding a length of suitable straight wire to act as a spring. The front and rear axles remain ridgid. You only need @ 0.5 mm or so of vertical movement, and of course the coupling rods need to be articulated. Have a look at my L1 thread which shows it. It would still be possible to do at the stage you are now, by desoldering the middle bearings, cleaning up, elongating the chassis holes and fitting a spring. It might be difficult to completely clean the bearings so would be better to fit new ones. The main thing is to only add vertical play not horizontal play. Like Jazz and others, I use this method on all my builds, and they all give excellent performance even on the less than perfect test track usually at the guild shows. That's a very nice piece of work on the Q1 by the way. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Hi George, any new up dates or pics to show us? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Hi George, The method EKR mentions is very simple as it only involves elongating the centre axle bearing holes and adding a length of suitable straight wire to act as a spring. The front and rear axles remain ridgid. You only need @ 0.5 mm or so of vertical movement, and of course the coupling rods need to be articulated. Have a look at my L1 thread which shows it. It would still be possible to do at the stage you are now, by desoldering the middle bearings, cleaning up, elongating the chassis holes and fitting a spring. It might be difficult to completely clean the bearings so would be better to fit new ones. The main thing is to only add vertical play not horizontal play. Like Jazz and others, I use this method on all my builds, and they all give excellent performance even on the less than perfect test track usually at the guild shows. That's a very nice piece of work on the Q1 by the way. Cheers, Peter Thanks for the info on the springing of the chassis Peter it does sound easy enough to apply, but l have spent out on buying the rods for the Q1 so they will have to stay, maybe on the next project, thanks again... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Hi George, any new up dates or pics to show us? Hello Andy, Nothing to report at present, still working on her, trying to use some sort of sprung draw-bar so close coupling will always be there as l hate 30 yard gaps between loco / tender ?... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 Built a part-scratched backhead for the Q1 with oddments l had, and finished the tender ready for painting... 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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