DJH DoG

[jukebox]

In the days of Crownline, they used to produce some tiny machined brass plugs (about half the size of the gigantic Markits ones), and those would have certainly worked well.

 

<irony mode>

 

Horse = bolted.

 

</irony mode>

[Horsetan]

Not irony. More like brassy.

[ozzyo]

It's the "narrow" bit I have to encourage you out of. Now, have you heard of Scalefour....?

 

Telford is the place for John in September.

[Grasshopper John]

Fine-scale for me I'm afraid Horse although I did spend some time with the seven scale folk at Reading earlier this year I think they tried to convert me even though I had not even built anything that size.

 

Anyway a bit of progress. First the whistles and pipes there was a small gap in between the whistle pipe and the main pipework on both sides so I had to make it up, not sure if you can see where in the pic.

 

 

The reversing rod gave me some thought after Scott kindly supplied a pic, everything to 'hand' seemed to big. I then had an idea, ready made, solid, about the right size.

 

 

It took a couple of attempts to get it right, so here is the humble Panel Pin, cut to length and in position,

 

Maybe not perfect but adequate I think, though pondering with putting some solder on the end that goes into the cab.

 

Looking forward to Telford OzzyO.

 

Grasshopper John.

[PAD]

Hi John, sorry to put a damper on things, but the DoG's whistle should be on the right hand side of the smoke box, not on the steam manifold on top of the fire box. Have a look at my build of the Seven version and you will see what I mean. Also BR locos only had one whistle unlike the GWR who were a bit extravagant in that area.

[3 link]

Enjoying the thread John,

 

When it comes to the final fettling if there are any noticeable gaps to fill a lot of folk use an ordinary fine filler paste, you could use this where the reversing rod enters the cab. You will be suprised at how many holes/gaps become apparent when you apply the first coat of primer.

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

 

PS.   Telford all the way, you know it makes sense .

[Mallard60022]

I'm really old and I only just recently learnt that the GWR had two different pitch/tone whistles so that they could send whistle codes. Can't tell you what the 'codes' were (but I'm sure someone will); something to do with shunting and main line running I think?

P

[Grasshopper John]

Hi John, sorry to put a damper on things, but the DoG's whistle should be on the right hand side of the smoke box, not on the steam manifold on top of the fire box. Have a look at my build of the Seven version and you will see what I mean. Also BR locos only had one whistle unlike the GWR who were a bit extravagant in that area.

 

Hello Pete, I just followed the instructions, the diagram shows where the turrett is positioned and the kit came with two whistles I referred to some photo's just my luck to look at the wrong one.

 

Enjoying the thread John,

 

When it comes to the final fettling if there are any noticeable gaps to fill a lot of folk use an ordinary fine filler paste, you could use this where the reversing rod enters the cab. You will be suprised at how many holes/gaps become apparent when you apply the first coat of primer.

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

 

PS.   Telford all the way, you know it makes sense .

 

All the way Martyn,

 

There is no hole in the cab though, what i did was use a 1.5mm drill bit but at 90deg to the cab so as to make a 'slot' for the head of the pin to slip into.

 

I think you thought I would solder around the hole using it as a filler, what I meant was to put a bit of solder on the head of the pin to make the rod cover look a bit bigger.

 

I think my DOG is a hybrid or a Heinz 57 either way it's a mongrel.

 

Grasshopper John.

[PAD]

Hello John, here's where the whistle should be. You can also see that the panel over the super heater behind the chimney is flush not proud of the smoke box. Cheers, Peter.

[PAD]

PS, spot the mistake with the lubricator linkage. It should run below the upper Caprotti drive shaft. Fortunately there were 2 sets in the kit so I won't have to make them.

 

John apologies for putting this in your thread. (too idle to repost the pics in mine!)However, it might be useful to you if you are adding this detail. Cheers, Peter

[Grasshopper John]

So DJH got it wrong again (not me honest) so I cut off the offending whistles but I left the pipework ( cause it looks nice ) and my new whistle from Markits arrived today ( and other goodies ), although it seems a bit big, I don't know, but it's in the correct place at least.

 

 

Safety valves fitted as well.

 

Grasshopper John.

 

 

[steven]

Hi John, it looks like you have sunk the safety valves in too low. They should sit on top of the firebox and be a prominent feature! Suggest you check some photographs! The bits of fine pipework that you can add with fuse wire that are in and around the whistle will make it look less lonely too!!! The bits in this kit are as supplied in most other Standard kits (Brit, Clan, Duke Class 5) from DJH hence the generic manifold supplied for the top of the firebox. Hope this helps.

[Horsetan]

That pack of BR Std. detail castings from Comet would have saved a lot of time.....

 

 

*ducks*

[Mallard60022]

Accumulating knowledge at an alarming rate.......I was (still am?) the same a few years back. 

P

[jukebox]

That pack of BR Std. detail castings from Comet would have saved a lot of time.....

 

 

*ducks*

 

John

 

Even if you don't plan on buying any of them, I seem to recall there are instructions available on the Comet website that Horse is refering to that have some useful diagrams for helping you add these details...

 

Scott

[Grasshopper John]

Hello Steven, Yes I know about the safety valves not bad for a second attempt though so the third attempt is like this,

 

 

You may have guessed by now Mallard I am the same as you

 

Horse/Scott I'm not sure the BR standard kit has been mentioned, unless i've missed it.

 

I shall do a search and see what it contains.

 

Grasshopper John.

 

Edit: Horse-Bolted again I looked at LDP01 on comet why did'nt I see it before, as you say Horse it would of saved a lot of trouble.

[Horsetan]

The castings were created by John Brighton, and Comet have been selling 'em for yonks. You tell 'em which Standard class you're modelling, and they give you the tailored pack of brass castings plus copper cable, etc.

 

Simples.

[steven]

Hi John, I mentioned the Comet detail pack when we first started the postings to you. As has been mentioned they were produced by Steamlines and Geoff Brewin and co. purchased the masters to produce them under the Comet banner. I have some spares from other standards which do not use them! I have injector water valves, exhaust steam injector and live steam injector if you would like them? email me a postal address and I will send them on to you together with the diagram sheet and the identification photo and some bits of copper wire to fit them up. What I do not have and is missing from the kit is the carriage warming valve. You could get this from Alan Gibson (aka) Colin Seymour in Oldham which would be cheaper than the Comet set which will set you back £22 50. The best way to fit these excellent parts is to drill holes to receive the wire. This will relieve you of a few drills but is worth the effort. Have a swear box handy too and the contribution you make to it will be able to be spent on the next kit!!!!!! I took issue with Geoff Brewin some time ago though regarding the nuts supplied with his detail pack for the injector steam valves. You have used the cast items on the firebox side to represent these. I have used 4 detail packs all of which contained turned components, wire and 16BA nuts to make these. The 5th pack I purchased (not in that order) had 14BA nuts in which are far too large for this purpose and contradict the instructions which clearly states that to fit the nuts to the .45mm wire it will be necessary to ream them out. This is not so with 14BA nuts as you could virtually throw them on and in any case almost pass over the turned component which is the middle part of the valve. You can buy 16BA nuts OK but they really should be part of this detail kit for this purpose.

[steven]

John, correction! the copper wire for the steam valves is 0.7mm BUT 14BA nuts are still too large and you do not have to ream them out as per instructions to fit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Alan Gibson brass castings for these parts are even smaller than 16BA nuts for the detail and I believe are probably nearer to scale.

[Grasshopper John]

Hello Steven, I cannot refuse such a kind offer you have a PM sir.

 

Well part of the parcel i received from markits was new clack valves I's starting to hate some of the WM castings all I have to do is assemble them

 

 

The engineering is quality even with my glasses on it's hard to see the holes.

 

Bought a set of sprung loaded Buffers though I am not sure if they are a bit large, I certainly need to do some work on the buffer beam though.

 

 

I also have short & medium handrail knobs, vacuum pipes, and some steam heat pipes.

 

Grasshopper John.

[steven]

Hi John, errrrrrrrrrrrrr sorry to sound so dim but how do I retrieve a PM? Can you not access my email from my profile? I have printed off some photos of the DOG I built. It has moved on since significantly but will add some notes on them to guide you with the finer detailing. Sorry to deface them but I hope it helps. I am getting a bit of a taste for the DJH Standards and have almost completed their Standard Class 5MT. So that's 2 X Britannia, DOG, 5MT, 3MT and WD 2-8-0. I also built one of their Ivatt tanks some time back and as this can be built as a Standard Class 2 you could arguably add this to the list! I doubt that I will be doing any more as the RTR Standards are excellent and as I purchased some of my kits long before they were introduced by Bachmann or Hornby, would probably invest it them. The Bachmann 9F is a corker and I poached their drive idea for the DOG and the Brit's. Waiting to mail you some stuff!!!!!!!!!!!

[steven]

John, gotchaaaaaaaaa it's on its way. Best wishes

[Grasshopper John]

Steven,

 

When you sign in to the left of your user name there is an envelope, when you receive a PM ( Personal message ) it should indicate a number in red, sometimes they appear when you log in.

Click on the envelope I mentioned and it will show you your inbox, If you want to send a PM just click on anyone's user name and it will show you a menu, or you can just click on the envelope underneath anyone's avatar.

 

HTH

GJ.

[Grasshopper John]

I believe we crossed Steven, Many thanks.

 

Well since my first post today I have been attempting to assemble the clack valves, how fiddly were they.

 

I got there though.

 

[steven]

Hi again, John, I have only used the Markits Clack Valves to make the ER version. In fact I have 'dumped' the bits left over in a packet for you!!!! I think that the way they are meant to be assembled for BR Standards is to use the copper wire for the part which is entering the boiler. There needs to be flexibility between the two main parts. I think that the turning that you have used to join them to the boiler will not give you that flexibility and you will need to remove it and substitute it for a short piece of copper wire and the plain (washer-like) circular component. If you look at the picture on the Markits pack you will see what I mean about flexibility as the two parts are clearly bent and only the copper wire will allow you to do this. The copper wire goes all the way through the two parts on the left of the photo with a small gap (1mm ish) in between the two. Allow a little larger gap between the other two parts for the 'bend' in to the boiler. Use components top of picture left and right, middle right and wire only for the valve you are trying to make up. Solder it all together and the joint with soft solder will allow you to do this as there is always a bit of give with the solder. I do not want any cash for the bits I will mail you. The wife will be glad to see me getting rid of some of my 'rubbish' lol