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Hi John,

Good to see you back.

 

Maybe a bit late for this - the deflectors on BR locos have a gentle curve on the top edge. I've found it easier to shape the deflectors before soldering the handrail knobs and handrail on.

 

Likewise, I've damaged (or lost) the steps before now.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Hi John,

Good to see you back.

 

Maybe a bit late for this - the deflectors on BR locos have a gentle curve on the top edge. I've found it easier to shape the deflectors before soldering the handrail knobs and handrail on.

 

Likewise, I've damaged (or lost) the steps before now.

 

Cheers,

Mick

Likewise, great project GH............. Mick, how did you shape the top of the deflectors?

 

Rgds.......Mike

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Likewise, great project GH............. Mick, how did you shape the top of the deflectors?

 

Rgds.......Mike

 

Nothing secret to bending/rolling thin brass.

My preferred method is to use a couple of layers of tea towel (or similar) on a hard surface and then use a short section of broom handle or similar, as a rolling pin - in the same way as rolling out pastry. But applying a bit more pressure. Being careful to only roll the upper section.

 

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Thanks for the welcome back Mick,

 

I presume this is what you meant I had to be careful not to pop out the handrail knobs, the deflectors are not in situ just resting on the footplate so they look a bit off center but you get the idea.

 

post-14207-0-94509300-1423998991.jpg

 

Regards

 

Grasshopper J.

 

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My next Achilles heel is the pipework DJH inst are far from accurate but apart from some reference to Scotts and Pad's build I will go with them.

 

So as a quick start i sought out the exhaust injector on the left hand side ( I hope ) and managed to fit some pipework to it.

 

post-14207-0-59325600-1424016018.jpg

 

Now all I have to do is work out where they go :)

 

Grasshopper J.

 

Edit. I decided to bend them Before soldering after looking at  the rough angles they should be, as I have a tendency to break things afterwards.

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Hello Ian, OzzyO,

 

You are quite correct Ian the grasshopper strikes again :) I am indeed working with the exhaust injector which should be on the right, Having asked for advice from the Master I should be working with the Live steam Injector as shown here.

 

post-14207-0-21294200-1424085205.jpg

 

At least I know where I am now I think :) looking at the cast it has what appears to be a pipe

( pointing upwards in the photo ) should this be left on, It must be there for a purpose.

 

Thanks for all your help.

 

Grasshopper

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Hello John,

 

in Ian's photo if you letter the fitting starting at the one at the top left and working you way around going in a clock wise direction you should end up with what I'm posting below,

post-8920-0-51005000-1424092080_thumb.jpg

 

I've flipped the photo around to try and help you a bit

post-8920-0-28319000-1424092409_thumb.jpg

 

So it looks like the bit on the right in the first photo should be cut off,

 

OzzyO.

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Morning All,

 

Quick update, spent some time fitting Pony Truck & Bogie wish I was OzzyO though I would have fitted them Before I fitted the Brakes and there frames made it a tad more difficult.

 

post-14207-0-34903500-1424177089.jpg

 

And so after much help I started again, so here are the Exhaust injector and Steam injector prepared, I thought it MIGHT be easier to do it like this Before fitting, again I followed PAD and the photos so I know the pipes are in the right place and go in the right direction :)

 

post-14207-0-55757300-1424177315.jpg

 

Next will be to fit them and Try to make the bends in the right place ( Carefully ) I hate having to re solder.

 

Regards

Grasshopper

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Hi John,

 

Have really enjoyed lurking and watching your build, especially having made a fairly crude fist of the GA resin kit for the Duke. The kit itself was good - my painting and lining was what let it down!

I have one suggestion that would, I think, make a big improvement to the front end look without any butchery: to try Markits or Gibson 9 spoke bevel rim wheels rather than the 10 spoke ones supplied? They are very noticeable once you do.

 

Best wishes,

 

Iain

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Ian ( Redgate ) please don't apologise for pointing me in the right direction, I will amend but looking at the photo you posted the flanged bit you are talking about sits way far too down, I will try to bend it so that it's near parallel to the injector but knowing me it will probably break :)

 

Although by my standards It's an easy fix.

 

Iain, thanks for your kind advice, however I will probably leave as is, the old wills finecast A4 I built did not cause me half as many problems as the Duke, I don't know why, I've just encountered one prob after another. It's been a while since i last had any interest in building again due to circumstances

But I am just going to finish this as the kit supplied as I've spent too much on it already.

 

Having said the above, I have a 7mm Loco to build, which I'm itching to get going on but I'm starting to ask myself am I ready, guess I won't know till I try but this forum and It's members are fantastic as there is always someone on hand to help.

 

Regards

Grasshopper John.   

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Isn't the 'flanged bit' the overflow?

 

Edit not sure now, can't really make it out from photograph. If you Google BR standard locomotive injectors you get quite a few images in the 'more images' bit, some of these might be useful to you.

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Isn't the 'flanged bit' the overflow?

 

Edit not sure now, can't really make it out from photograph. If you Google BR standard locomotive injectors you get quite a few images in the 'more images' bit, some of these might be useful to you.

 

Dont think so Phil,

 

If you look at post 763 which Redgate posted it shows the flange quite clearly, my problem is that it points more downwards than parallel to the exhaust so I will have to bend it upwards---- very carefully, I'm no stranger to breaking things :)

 

Grasshopper

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I was busy trying to form the bends so I missed your post OzzyO so I went with Redgate's suggestion.

 

As I was not sure of the scale on the instructions ( DJH are basically follow your own instinct ) and I had already fixed the

straight pipework to the valves, it was then a question of trying to put the valve in place and then making the bends. Not an easy task and i was constantly switching on the Iron due to snapping the joints on four of them 3 on LH side 1 on RH side.

 

Anyway this is a bit hit miss TBH because I was using reference photo and Instructions so It's not perfect or true to the real thing.

 

post-14207-0-56852100-1424276213.jpg

 

post-14207-0-95290000-1424276302.jpg

 

Damn slow process with a bit more to do.

 

Grasshopper.

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Only found this yesterday and spent most of last night reading all of the way through! Lots of interesting info!!- am about to take the plunge with a kit: lots of interesting tips here, but don't think I will be starting with DOG!

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Only found this yesterday and spent most of last night reading all of the way through! Lots of interesting info!!- am about to take the plunge with a kit: lots of interesting tips here, but don't think I will be starting with DOG!

 

Welcome aboard sp 1, It is a massive learning curve with more set backs than you can imagine put up a thread of your build there is always help to hand on RM web, we have to start somewhere.

 

The D0G has had it's issues I must admit but mostly of my own doing the thing i am beginning to realise is that its not a race you have to take your time.

 

Regards

Grasshopper.

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There was a bit more work required on the right hand side It's a bit 'made up' between the inst and photos it was too small an area to get it 100% but it looks OK and works for me :)

 

post-14207-0-23432500-1424347120.jpg

 

Hope you agree

 

Grasshopper J

 

Edit this might be a better view

 

post-14207-0-78026200-1424347544.jpg

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