Madcaravanner Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 I am building a new 3 track Engine Shed I am building in the 1960's so would expect to find broken windows and dilapidation But How do I model such broken glass in plastic/polycarbonate sheet convincingly The Engine shed is of a Midland Railway design with a single Pitched rood with the Glazed area being the top third of the roof above what will be remaining of the smoke vents. Just a thought if there's another thread with similar ideas please redirect me I have searched and found nothing to help me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted June 20, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2012 Maybe use something like a CD case, and hit a piece with a ball hammer to create bits, which can then be used to make the remains of the glass in the frame ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 You can also use microscope slide covers, which are real glass, to make the broken panes. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 96701 Posted June 20, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2012 There's a bit more info on microscope cover slips here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57436-coach-glazing-supply-of-glass/ I think there might be a little danger from bits of broken glass in the shed roof, plus any flexing in the building will likely break the rest of the 'windows' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted June 20, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 20, 2012 This is useful as I'm doing something similar, except it is in some of the windows in a (genericish) Wills Southern two road shed. I was not as imaginative as you guys and was just going to chop some fine, clear plastiglaze. I've used some corrugated plasticard in one window arches; it is fitted to appear as if it has been roughly fitted from the inside, leaving a gap at the top of the window. This actually looks quite good IMO. P @ 36E. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 simply scoring you glazing material will give you cracks, for fully broken panes you possibly need to use a broken piece of glazing material. As with all modelling, there is more than one way to get an acceptable result Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Wouldn't suitably scalpeled photocopier or OHP acetates do the job suitably? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 I've used the clear packaging that covers Wills sheets. The breaks are relatively straight forward to replicate with a scalpel. A blow over with dark grey primer gives a suitable dirty dusty sooty effect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcaravanner Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 Thanks Guys for the start of the idea flow glass is a definite NO as the 8 Grandkids love to see the layout CD Case too thick OHP Film is just TOO expensive at present but got loads of packaging and a little roughing with some Wet & dry should do the trick and I've got loads of scalpel blades so going to have some fun over the next few days UNLESS someone comes up with a better idea Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 I did this using thin glazing material, the stuff that model shops sell (about .010"), and a sharp scalpel; Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 I shall start by saying I haven't tried this, but I was thinking that you could put some plastic glazing material in the freezer overnight. Then in the morning it might be brittle enough to snap/shatter into more realistic 'broken glass' Just a thought, Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 OHP Film is just TOO expensive at present If you want to PM me your address, I'll gladly chuck a couple in the post to you - I have a boxful from "the old days" hanging round just in case it comes in handy (and since the OHP is long gone it's unlikely we'll ever need it again), and won't miss a couple. It should at least give you a chance to experiment, being A4 you should have enough for plenty of windows. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 A completely safe technique that I have seen give a good impression, was the plastic glazing having been given the dusting of filth already described, then had a suitably shaped matt black patch painted on where there was to be a broken pane, representing the 'dark hole' typical of looking into an unlit building interior from outside on a bright day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcaravanner Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 A completely safe technique that I have seen give a good impression, was the plastic glazing having been given the dusting of filth already described, then had a suitably shaped matt black patch painted on where there was to be a broken pane, representing the 'dark hole' typical of looking into an unlit building interior from outside on a bright day. Nice idea - but one problem in that I am planning on lighting the interior with a few soft white LED's removed from an old bike light not all lighting positions will be used so it appears that some are broken but enough so that this wouldn't work I have tried the scalpel trick and am finding that a heavy scoring dirtied up looks quite good as a cracked pane and at present still trying to get the Sharded broken look but it looks quite good as long as I don't make the holes too big Now think I need to make some proper frames to give visual depth/height Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted June 22, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 22, 2012 I have achieved good results by taking the clear plastic glazing film out of windows and striking it a sharp blow on the workbench with a nail punch. It cracks, splinters and crazes in much the same way as does glass when hit by a stray piece of ballast or other hard object. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I use a piece of laminate as a window and cut a hole in it. XF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 In a past life when I wanted some filthy glazing for an Airfix Engine Shed I used 'greaseproof paper' or similar 'purloined' from the kitchen draw and liberally coated it with satin varnish. When the varnish was dry I poked out some entire panes. At the time I did't want any broken panes but I cannot see why you couldn't have some cut lines and remove a few triangular pieces when the varnish has dried. Just a thought Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcaravanner Posted August 9, 2012 Author Share Posted August 9, 2012 Well thanks guys The glazing is done the roof is almost finished /roof walkways are drying as I type just got the roof apex and chimneys to sort now and then to wire up the lighting system Whilst I am also working on making a good job out of a Triang Trestol (totally wrong at the bogie level but ) it almost looks authentic now and has a ballasted load A Jinty that refuses to run (the wheelset is shorting out on the chassis) an office building to match the Engine Shed further scenic touches on the layout Forgot to say Photo's to follow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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