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Semaphore Signals - 4mm Scale (Mainly)


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  • RMweb Gold

Final touches.....

 

The wooden staging has been stained and fitted:

post-3984-0-11038800-1509179336_thumb.jpg

 

The servos connected and adjusted using a GF Dual Controller:

post-3984-0-61098700-1509179338_thumb.jpg

 

post-3984-0-18054000-1509179341_thumb.jpg

 

I expect to have this and its "Up Home" partner on my Demo Stand at Warley next month.

 

Steve.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Another leap forward:

 

The Up Home has been completed similarly to the Down signal and the two installed on a shared Transport & Test frame.

This is how they will be delivered to the layout owner after being on my demo stand at Warley later this month.

 

One of my little videos shows them working:

 

Why not come along and see them for yourself.......

 

Steve.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

The Down Starters........

 

This signal is another bracket, this time its "balanced" and on a lattice post.

post-3984-0-64494700-1511002856_thumb.png

 

The main arm is the Platform Starter and the other controls access to the Military Sidings.

 

In later days this signal was condemned and replaced by a later design.

Here it is seen before replacement but with lots of scaffolding in place....

post-3984-0-62393000-1511002866_thumb.png

 

My model is based heavily on the MSE etch "S0016".

This is one of the older products, and not as finely etched as later examples, but I think I will make an acceptable signal from it.

 

As previously, I've added N/S strip to the edge of the brackets to give them a better look.

Here they are fixed to the assembled main post etches:

post-3984-0-80373100-1511002919_thumb.jpg

 

I've prepared my usual foundations, comprising a brass turning to locate the bottom of the main post, with guide tubes for the operating wires attached.

post-3984-0-22106200-1511002917_thumb.jpg

A half inch dia. brass tube is used to locate the signal in the baseboard and ensure the servo assembly is correctly aligned.

The whole of this is built on the N/S Baseplate.

post-3984-0-68480100-1511002914_thumb.jpg

 

Here the main tube has been trial fitted:

post-3984-0-75699300-1511002922_thumb.jpg

 

I usually build the upper parts of a signal directly onto the bracket-work, but on this occasion I think it will be better to construct them as a separate sub-assembly, to be fixed in place later.

 

I have used a simple jig to get everything spaced and aligned correctly.

This comprises a block of Tufnol with 2mm holes spaced at 24mm centres.

Two short lengths of 2mm Silver Steel rod will locate the dolls and ensure they are vertical.

post-3984-0-76489000-1511002911_thumb.jpg

I turned the two aluminium (doesn't solder) bushes to space out the 1mm angled brass Trimmers to be a close fit on the top of the Main Post, when the two assemblies are brought together later.

 

This framework was then inverted on the jig and the rest of the top structure built on it.

post-3984-0-03838800-1511002925_thumb.jpg

 

That's probably as far as I'll get before the Warley show next weekend.

I need to check out my display items, and I've some maintenance to do on the Lime Street signals whilst the layout is not fully assembled.

 

Steve.

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

I've just been constructing some signals using the MSE S002 lattice post fret. Looking at yours how on earth do you keep the darn thing straight. No matter what I tried mine keep warping slightly when I solder them up.

Hi Chris,

 

Etched lattice work can be a bit of a problem, but the general solution is to make up two "L" shapes first, and then join them together.

The early MSE etches, like S0016 I'm using at present has a mirror image of the half post.

The problem then is having the fold line on the outside rather than the inside of the second half.

Never works like that!

 

I separate the two parts of the "wrong" half, clean up all the edges and make up the "L" correctly.

I hold the two parts in place by one hand and tack the end to attach.

Carefully adjust the join line and get the 90deg correct, tack the other end.

When fairly confident, tack a mid-position.

If still OK, run the seam in with a hot iron, plenty of liquid flux and small amount of solder.

 

Joining the two "L" sections is a similar process.

Hold in one hand, adjust and tack in place etc.

 

I've had my share of "warped & twisted banana shapes" believe me!

 

The later etches from MSE are much better, being correctly handed, and have staggered "cusps" which help locate the two halves during final assembly.

 

Hope this helps,

Steve.

 

p.s.  I will probably have some etches of lattice posts with me at Warley ready for a future build.

Come along and make yourself known on Stand A71 and we can discuss this further.

Edited by Steve Hewitt
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I need a little bit of help.  I have posted this question on another thread, have not had any feedback and am hoping someone here may be able too offer some advice.  Even "that I have got it totally wrong or it cannot be signalled correctly.

Anyway, after the preamble the meat.  I have just finished building signals for New Waltham using Ratio parts and servo motors to operate   With one exception I have been able to figure out what the signals should be and where they should be placed.  This has been helped by the fact that the layout is based on Grimsby circa 1958.  However, I am sort of stumped as to where the last signal should go and what type it should be.  See attached sketch.  

Based on what I can find it might be a splitter signal and should probably be positioned at #2.  However, when I place it there it just looks wrong so I am second guessing myself.   The other possible location is at 1 but this places it very close to the platform starter.

Would appreciate thoughts etc.

Thks

Jim in the GWN

 

post-4861-0-38840000-1511272032.jpeg

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  • RMweb Gold

I need a little bit of help.  I have posted this question on another thread, have not had any feedback and am hoping someone here may be able too offer some advice.  Even "that I have got it totally wrong or it cannot be signalled correctly.

Anyway, after the preamble the meat.  I have just finished building signals for New Waltham using Ratio parts and servo motors to operate   With one exception I have been able to figure out what the signals should be and where they should be placed.  This has been helped by the fact that the layout is based on Grimsby circa 1958.  However, I am sort of stumped as to where the last signal should go and what type it should be.  See attached sketch.  

Based on what I can find it might be a splitter signal and should probably be positioned at #2.  However, when I place it there it just looks wrong so I am second guessing myself.   The other possible location is at 1 but this places it very close to the platform starter.

Would appreciate thoughts etc.

Thks

Jim in the GWN

 

attachicon.gif Station Sigs1.jpeg

Hi Jim,

 

Thanks for posting your enquiry.

Unfortunately, you're asking the wrong person.

Although I build semaphore signals, I have no professional railway experience, and certainly not enough knowledge to answer your question.

However, that being said, one or two of my "followers" might be able to help you.

 

My immediate impression is that all bar one of your signals seem to refer to the "UP" direction, with only the Branch "Home" protecting anything in the "DOWN" direction???

 

I hope someone can help you, and it may be worth moving your question to its own Topic in that case.

 

Steve.

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I need a little bit of help.  I have posted this question on another thread, have not had any feedback and am hoping someone here may be able too offer some advice.  Even "that I have got it totally wrong or it cannot be signalled correctly.

Anyway, after the preamble the meat.  I have just finished building signals for New Waltham using Ratio parts and servo motors to operate   With one exception I have been able to figure out what the signals should be and where they should be placed.  This has been helped by the fact that the layout is based on Grimsby circa 1958.  However, I am sort of stumped as to where the last signal should go and what type it should be.  See attached sketch.  

Based on what I can find it might be a splitter signal and should probably be positioned at #2.  However, when I place it there it just looks wrong so I am second guessing myself.   The other possible location is at 1 but this places it very close to the platform starter.

Would appreciate thoughts etc.

Thks

Jim in the GWN

 

attachicon.gifStation Sigs1.jpeg

Hi Jim,

 

My initial thought was location 2 rather than 1. However, on looking at your diagram and thinking it through further, I'm not sure that the positioning of your signals is entirely typical (although there are always exceptions - and of course 'rule 1' can be invoked at any time!)

 

To illustrate the point, in the Up direction, you have a signal at the platform end for each of the two roads but there is then a separate junction signal at the point at which the branch diverges. Assuming that these are quite close together and therefore worked by the same signal box, I think that is unlikely. A more typical arrangement in that situation would be for the signals at the platform ends both to be junction signals (like the one you have at the junction) and there would then be no need for the separate signal at the junction. As a principle, signals tend to indicate a route rather than the setting of individual pointwork.

 

Using that logic, the signal you are pondering over might perhaps be best sited where you have the 'DOWN' label. Such a signal would then have three arms - one for the mainline through the station (you don't appear to have any signal for this?), one for the back platform (black dotted line) and one for the bi-directional by-pass station avoiding road). It would also serve the additional purpose of protecting down trains from the conflicting move of an up train taking the branchline road from the junction.

 

My thoughts, for what it's worth. If you want to develop this further then maybe best to either drop me a separate PM or post on a separate thread (although I note that you have already tried that).

 

Steve - great work as always! I actually dropped in to have a look at your latest projects and picked up Jim's post by chance.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Back from Warley.....

 

Another busy Warley show is now behind us, and how great to meet several RMwebbers face to face once again.

Those first two Marchwood signals certainly attracted a lot of favourable comments - thanks very much indeed!

 

I've now assembled the static parts of the Down Starter and given it a ride in the Dish Washer, so it will shortly be off to the Paintshop:

 

post-3984-0-37552400-1512336804_thumb.jpg

 

post-3984-0-11198000-1512336810_thumb.jpg

 

More soon...

 

Steve.

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

A little more progress.......

 

Back from the paintshop and the fibre optics have been fitted:

post-3984-0-54252700-1512916479_thumb.jpg

Here the LED is being lit by a 9v PP3 battery.

 

The moving parts are next:

post-3984-0-75992900-1512916484_thumb.jpg

The Arm, Weight Bar and Crank for the Down Main Starter have been assembled.

This assembly can be wriggled into place through the handrails etc.

 

Fitting the Back Blinder on the Arm Shaft and the collar on the rear of the Weight Bar pivot finally locks it all in place.

 

Repeat for the Down Branch Starter and add the Timbers to the Staging to get:

post-3984-0-44531000-1512916892_thumb.jpg

 

post-3984-0-84502100-1512916894_thumb.jpg

 

post-3984-0-32740300-1512916897_thumb.jpg

 

A couple of close-ups:

post-3984-0-75269400-1512916899_thumb.jpg

 

post-3984-0-79148700-1512916904_thumb.jpg

 

Final portrait with the operating wires disappearing below ground to the Servos.

post-3984-0-39517900-1512916907_thumb.jpg

 

The Transport & Test frame will be next, so the Servos can be installed in a mock-up of the signal's position on the layout....

 

Video to follow at some stage.

 

Steve.

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Happy New Year..............

 

I hope Santa was kind, and you are fully rested and ready for the next year's modelling.

 

At last I've managed to make the little video I mentioned last month:

 

I've added sound to this one, to try to explain the set-up and operation on the signal.

 

I'm now leaving the Marchwood signals for a while and getting on with some more for Carlisle.....

 

Steve.

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  • RMweb Gold

The first of this batch of Carlisle signals....

 

This batch will all be for the "Goods Lines", and the first few will be for Rome Street Jct.

This photo shows three of the prototype siganls:

 

post-3984-0-97553700-1515773011_thumb.jpg

 

The two Three Doll Lattice Brackets are almost identical, just the upper ladders seem to be shorter on the one at top right.

Each signal has three Fixed Distants, but on the model the signal on the left will be non-working, as those lines are cut short just beyond the signal.

The two Discs on the tall lattice post are also being modelled, but only the right hand disc will be working.

 

I'll be starting on the Three Doll Brackets first, of which more later.........

 

Steve.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Making a start.....

 

These signals comprise two Lattice Posts with a third Doll cantilevered out to the right.

All the bracket work is made from angle iron.

The three Distants are all "Fixed".

 

This is a much better shot:

post-3984-0-79392900-1517325462_thumb.jpg

 

The model is based on MSE Lattice Post and Doll etches:

post-3984-0-30404600-1517325540_thumb.jpg

They can be made straight and true by careful folding (I use  an 8in Hold & Fold) and soldering together a little at a time.

 

To mount these in a N/S Baseplate, I've turned two foundations from brass bar:

post-3984-0-78152200-1517325545_thumb.jpg

 

These were finished to size with a tapered broach which makes for a good fit on the Posts at the correct location.

post-3984-0-94449000-1517325557_thumb.jpg

Note the two posts differ in height by two feet.

 

Having prepared a scale drawing from the photo, the various components were cut to size from brass sections and the signal was assembled to give:

post-3984-0-88728600-1517326333_thumb.jpg

 

From the rear:

post-3984-0-80363900-1517326337_thumb.jpg

 

Clean & polish, a ride in the dish-washer, then thinners bath and off to the paint shop.....

 

Steve.

 

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

A little light on the subject.......

 

Back from the paint shop, the first task is to install the fibres for the signal lamps.

I use 0.5mm dia optical fibres to carry the light from an LED to each of the 3D printed lamps.

 

post-3984-0-76988700-1517775620_thumb.jpg

Each of the six fibres is threaded through the signal's lattice and bracket work and into the rear of its lamp.

You can just make them out in the above picture but I don't think they are too obtrusive?

The fibre is cut square at the front of the lamp, heated with a hot soldering iron - close but not touching - to expand the end to represent the lamp lens.

 

The fibre is bent sharply where it enters the rear of the lamp  causing some leakage of light, which represents the "Back-Light".

post-3984-0-98576700-1517775623_thumb.jpg

 

The LED I use is a "Gas Light" from Helmsman Electronics. I think it gives a good representation of an oil lamp.

For this test the LED Is powered by a PP3 9volt battery.

 

Next tasks are the moving parts. Time to breathe some life into this signal...........

 

Steve.

 

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Hi Steve,

 

As Jon has rightly said, fantastic work.

I note that the cantilevered doll has a tee just below the finial and there appears to be telegraph wires supported by the tee which look as though they may be running to the telegraph pole to the right of the signal. I have never seen this done on a signal before. Do we have any further information on this feature?

 

John R

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