Horsetan Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 The thing is how heavy does it need to be? Surely it only needs to move 3 or 4 wagons, not a 13 coach express train. As long as it doesn't trigger subsidence in his home, I'm sure it'll be fine... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 really need to finish this off, so will be getting back on with it soon. heres a nice film for inspiration.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 this has been sat looking at me on the shelf for the same reasons as the Kitson In another thread. wheels. the Scalelink wheel wasnt a success on this, it looked ok filled in, but went to solder the crankpin pn one of the front wheels and it melted, only slightly but enough to move the crankpin. however, Markits have just brought out a l&y pug wheel just ordered a set. so ill be able to carry on with this when they are here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted March 7, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2013 That is good news - I bought a Dapol Pug at the Mansfield Show (the motorised version) so a High Level chassis might be in order sometime Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks for that film, I hadn't seen that. Brings back memories of trying to bunk Goole shed in steam days: it was in the middle of Goole dockland, so doubly difficult to get to, even on a Sunday. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 wheels arrived this morning, next day delivery, very happy with them, aswel as a set of 14mm for my kitson and a set of 12.5mm wheels for one of my 0-6-0 md&hb avonsides, complete with flangeless centre wheels which was a nice surprise as I asked by chance and was told they had flangeless wheels for them. anyway the pug. the wheels look really nice, they go on nice, the crankpins where a bit tight so I ran a 10ba tapper through them and they fitted really snug afterwards. as always the nut can be hidden later, but they feel solid, run true, only need a set of pickups one side now and with the rods on and washers on the axles to stop any side play it runs very sweet. I can also take these off and on without having to worry as ill need to clean up the chassis and add some bits to it and I know they will be bullet proof. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted March 11, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 11, 2013 mmmm, nice wheels, so that's why I've been checking up on the cost of the High Level kit today ...... Reallu ought to run the pug as it is for a bit first, at least chip it and let it have a run at the Lincoln show in June Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 I also ordered a second set for a freind who built the high level kit as intended but his gibson wheels need replacing so when he has replaced them will report back on how that one runs too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 Ive placed an ad in the forum Wanted section but will ask here the Hornby/Dapol pug has plastic slidebar covers, which while they are relatively easy to make, the plastic ones also do a good job of holding the slidebars at the correct distance apart and so id rather use a pair of them. Im hoping someone has a spare pair they can part with. the motion bracket that holds them I could probably use aswel, although thats not as important as its plastic and a bit chunky,that part also seems readily available on spares sites, ebay and the like, i can make a new one out of brass as the original fret piece got damaged when dismantling the pug I have got it running and its a sweet little runner, all wheels straight and true, as I say, just the cylinder area next Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 I managed to source a set of slidebar covers from ebay, they came with a set of cylinders so what I have done, to widen the cylinders out slightly is use the 2 to make 1 wider. slicing the cylinder support down the middle then cutting out and adding the middle section from the other, with plasticard behind the cylinder so that it buts up against the chassis, result is the cylinders are approx 1mm wider on either side but I cant really see another way around it and when the body is on it isnt noticable. just need to sort out the motion support bracket but its running nice and smooth, the coupling and connecting rods are now soldered on. the front crankpins use a reversed crankpin bush to keep it in as far in as possible so as not to clash with the slidebars, while on the back ive used ordinary crankpin washers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Hi Michael. Nice upgrade for the pug, how did you find fitting the wheels on the axles. I have some Markits wheels for a 43xx but am having difficulty getting them to sit squarely on the shaft. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 with these, no problem, no wobble at all, they are so small and just went on a treat. the crankpin holes I did notice where tight when putting the crankpins in and I didnt want to snap one in there so I lightly ran a tapper through the thread, apart from that no problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 the only problem with cramming so much lead into the front smokebox area and the fact the body is plastic,is that it didnt leave any rom for a nut to secure the body and I hadnt decided on how I would attach the front of the body to the chassis. its been bugging me for a while. what I have decided to do to sort this, is to solder a 10ba nut at the bottom of the brass chimney and drill a hole right through the sheets of lead in the smokebox to the chassis. at a very slight rear facing angle. this also keeps the cylinders secure. the only thing I need to do is try and find a 10ba bolt of at least 30mm length I have also now glued the cab to the running plate and the rear of the saddle tank to the front of the cab and it has regained its strength. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 the only problem with cramming so much lead into the front smokebox area and the fact the body is plastic,is that it didnt leave any rom for a nut to secure the body and I hadnt decided on how I would attach the front of the body to the chassis. its been bugging me for a while. what I have decided to do to sort this, is to solder a 10ba nut at the bottom of the brass chimney and drill a hole right through the sheets of lead in the smokebox to the chassis. at a very slight rear facing angle. this also keeps the cylinders secure. the only thing I need to do is try and find a 10ba bolt of at least 30mm length I have also now glued the cab to the running plate and the rear of the saddle tank to the front of the cab and it has regained its strength. PICT0020.JPG Why not just thread a piece of wire 10BA then it can be what ever length you want. It can be soldered into your brass chimney. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oldlugger Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 really need to finish this off, so will be getting back on with it soon. heres a nice film for inspiration.. What a great video this is of the Pug! Lovely locos and full of charm. Interesting thread Mike; I have a Hornby Pug with OO Ultrascale wheels but I will probably convert it to P4 one of these days. My layout doesn't require long trains so its weight is not a problem. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 Why not just thread a piece of wire 10BA then it can be what ever length you want. It can be soldered into your brass chimney. actually, looking into whats available, I think the standard longest 10ba bolt is 1inch? (without getting stud) if so and if the 1inch is the length of the thread not including the nut head I think that might just be long enough, in the measurment I was including a couple of strips of lead in the chassis,which I could open up to countersink the nut head into. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Hello Michael, why not just tap into the lead, as you've drilled it for 10BA you may have to tap it 8BA. Or you could use a 1/2" self tapper. OzzyO. PS. always try and think outside of the box for these sort of things. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 think it would probably just pull the lead out, need it to be tight, A 1 inch 10ba bolt would do it, but just trying to find someone who does them, im sure I had some but as is the way I cant find them now I want one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted April 11, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 11, 2013 I've only just caught this thread (I was offline for most of the second half of last year). It reminds me of my High Level Pug chassis build I really would like to get my one's chassis sorted (it's a little too wide so the gauge is too tight on curves), but I need to replace a not inexpensive soldering iron first. I will see if I can scrape the money together, but that's not easy at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 i know the feeling Ian. Because I cut away the underside of the boiler to fit the porterscap in it meant I had to cut away the detail too, so I have moulded in resin the detail on a friends Hornby pug. it fits in as is but its obviously not going to fit back in the same place, so what I will do is cut out the springs and details and stick them in individually, the portescap motor barrel itself will be painted black to resemble the underside of the boiler, with a matching piece on the gearbox from lead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 I got some 10ba bolts 1 1/4" at Scaleforum at the weekend. body is now nice and secure, Ive also fitted the decoder today, below the motor, to allow it to fit better I cut a slice into one side of the gearbox as the decoder being one able to run with portescaps isnt as small as others, just a few mm to allow the decoder to sit in the cut and leave space at the front but it fits nice and runs really nice on the bench, has an extremely slow crawl, really smooth and silent, just need to fit pickups to one side now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Hi Michael, We were at Scaleforum on Saturday, maybe we passed each other. This was my first Scalefour exhibition, spent far too much money but really enjoyed the exhibits and picking up lots of tips.. Also sorted out a problem with a 43xx chassis build with Geof on the Comet stand. Well worth the trip across. Ray & Polly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 i had a nice day Ray. there where people I wanted to chat to, but got so engrossed talking to others, buying bits and watching the layouts I totally missed the demonstrators Tonight I got the pickups on the pug and it was the first run on the layout, first time the layout has had DCC on it. performance, excellent, runs round happily, slow, it pushed round 20 wagons which is all we had available, various weights and running qualities but it was happy with them, started to slip on the curves but sped it up it would manage them, but that is probably twice as much as it will be called upon to move. but I was happy with how it ran. only slight thing, the gearbox doesnt whine at all,the loco runs smooth, but it does have a slight tinny sort of clockworky noise, I think the gears are totally dry, I didnt want to put any oil or grease on them as if im right there is a specific one to use on them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Labelle 102 grease is ideal for RG4 gears. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 cheers Horsetan, best place to get some do you know? quick video of the prototype on the high level coal railway Liverpool in the 50s, poor quality on the net but its definatley a Pug and its pulling at least 10 mineral wagons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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