mendiprail Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) A friend of mine has had his version for a little while, earlier today, yesterday (Sunday) I was watching it carrying out a spot of shunting. Somehow he's managed to get the sound spot on, it sounds just like the real thing! Curiously, the livery of 'Cattewater' is one that it never wore while as a proper 'working' engine, although it isn't too far off either. So the Hornby model is only 100% accurate for your layout if you've modelled the East Somerset Railway and your chosen time period is 2007 onwards! Edited January 14, 2014 by mendiprail 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadmill Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Easy enough. You need to remove the coupling pockets, they prise out. There are two screws recessed into the chassis block, one fore and one aft. Remove them, the small bonnet just lifts off, the cab and long bonnet needs to be raised and tilted forward to disengage it from the lugs above the buffer beam. The ends of the handrails need to be released from the sides of the buffer beams, they just pull out. The side panels are more difficult, they have two locating lugs but they're glued in. You need to work on them, carefully, with a scalpel to loosen them before prising them out. They will release but take it slowly. What's the glazing like to remove? Or is it safer to just use masking tape? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 The glazing is actually a single piece, a central, curved panel, which is glued into the roof and the front sides and rear hang off that on pairs of thin links. So, as the central part is pushed up into the cab, the other bits bend down and are moulded to push into the window reveals. They are not glued. I pushed them back in with my thumb nail and they snapped off the central, glued in bit, and fell out. The individual front, sides and rear panels were not damaged and are just popped back in, a bit of Klear or gloss varnish will hold them in. Does that make sense? I'll post a photo or two tomorrow to clarify how it's arranged. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted January 13, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2014 Re: the live/dead frog discussion. Mine will run over live frogs in the fullness of time but, last Friday she got a run over a friend's O-16.5 layout (I think he has designs on the chassis). One bit of his line includes a Peco Setrack curved point, with a dead frog not very much shorter than the wheelbase of the loco. I was very surprised that it went through it OK at a decently slow speed though not always at the minimum crawl of which the loco is capable. The flywheel may be small, but it seems to work! John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mr Nik Posted January 13, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13, 2014 Well from a modelling point of view, as well as a motorcycling perspective, 2013 was a bit of a write off. A seriously delayed house move left us living out of boxes for a quarter of the year, the best quarter too. There has been no progress on my industrial layout at all. But yesterday brought a tiny glimmer of hope…the arrival of my first Hornby Sentinel. It wasn’t the livery I wanted but seeing as they are becoming like rocking horse dung I thought I’d better snap one up. Inspired by Arthur, icphotos and Richard 37670 it seems entirely practical to try and re-livery one to my exact needs. The loco in question is an Esso liveried one and I’m really pleased with it. I’d like to echo the points of numerous posters and say the red is really nicely applied and looks much better in real life than the photos you may have seen. My local shop, Trident Trains, has one left in the Esso red if anyone is interested. No connection other than as a satisfied customer. Anyway, off to do some work now but perhaps there will be track planning updates on my own thread later in the day. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) So, back to the glazing. Here are the four 'window' sets as they fell out of my model. As it's made, there is a central square of plastic in the centre. You can see on the side windows the three thin 'lugs' which connected them to the centre bit. The front and rear windows were similarly attached. From a factory assembly viewpoint it's a neat solution, push and glue the centre piece up into the cab, the windows follow it and are just pressed into place. I would think that removing the glued bit might be difficult and, as I said, when I pushed in the windows they just came free. Not a problem, no damage, but they'll need securing with varnish or the like. Edit; looking at them it looks like the lower lugs were glued to the cab sides but they came free readily enough. Edited January 13, 2014 by Arthur Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Arthur, What is the origin of the cobbles /sets in your picture (#512)? Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 They're the Wills granite setts Gordon. As you probably know, the sheets are quite small, you can make out a slight gap just to the right of the glazing, by the inset rail, where two sheets are joined. They were painted with Tamiya acrylics, if I remember correctly, Buff first, then a thinned grey/ brown run into the joints followed by some light dry brushing to highlight the sett tops. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Thanks Arthur, Youve made a very tidy job. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Arthur Posted January 14, 2014 Popular Post Share Posted January 14, 2014 Nearly finished, now weathered, just a couple of details to add but it's been getting to work. Here it is, propelling laden slag ladles, out of the open hearth casting bay at Barton Hall Works. It'll be finished tomorrow, I'll post more pics and some notes. 23 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJL Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Arthur that's a proper job, well done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adams442T Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) Interestingly though Rails of Sheffield apparently have no remaining Sentinels in stock (like all the other larger retailers) they do have one available on eBay at £59 with free postage, item number 1310 9343 2397, there are also a number of TMC 'weathered' ones available. Edited January 14, 2014 by Adams442T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkea1 Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Nearly finished, now weathered, just a couple of details to add but it's been getting to work. Here it is, propelling laden slag ladles, out of the open hearth casting bay at Barton Hall Works. image.jpg It'll be finished tomorrow, I'll post more pics and some notes. Arthur, That image of the Sentinel shunting slag pots looks great - very realistic. When do we see you full layout coming to fruition - as far as I recall this is a test plank? Regards Alastair Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Interestingly though Rails of Sheffield apparently have no remaining Sentinels in stock (like all the other larger retailers) they do have one available on eBay at £59 with free postage, item number 1310 9343 2397, there are also a number of TMC 'weathered' ones available. More are expected, its just the initial shipment that has largely sold out along with the yet to be released weathered green Tarmac one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Arthur, That image of the Sentinel shunting slag pots looks great - very realistic. When do we see you full layout coming to fruition - as far as I recall this is a test plank? Regards Alastair Hi Alistair, thanks for that, I'm sure you'll recognise the slag pots! You're right, it's just a test plank. Nothing to report yet on the full layout, I've built the Staplegrove Works module for last years SWAG meet, I'll pose the Sentinel on that for some pics, and I'll shortly be posting some updates on vehicles and rolling stock for the planned layout. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted January 15, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2014 Nearly finished, now weathered, just a couple of details to add but it's been getting to work. Here it is, propelling laden slag ladles, out of the open hearth casting bay at Barton Hall Works. image.jpg It'll be finished tomorrow, I'll post more pics and some notes. Looks amazing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Some final notes and images of my BSC Sentinel conversion. This is what it started as; Stripped down in preparation for painting; I wanted to preserve the Sentinel and Rolls Royce badges, and also the makers nameplate on the rear bonnet, so they were masked with tape. It was well burnished down which is why you can read Sentinel through it. Should they become available, I'll fit etched plates. Now complete, I used the original coupling hooks and just clipped three links of chain into them. Having wittered on above about refitting the original glazing, that was never my intention. Instead it's been flush glazed with clear acetate, held in with Klear. Time consuming, it does make an improvement and would be an ideal candidate for laser glazing. One final point, the windscreen wipers. The front ones have a little spigot glued into a groove in the lower edge of the windscreen frame. A scalpel blade cutting a V either side of the spigot will remove it (and also launch it into orbit if you're not careful. and they are small). The rear wiper spigots are glued into holes, virtually impossible to remove intact. You could leave them in and work around them. I cut them off, and they and the front ones were refitted using Klear after flush glazing. Some final shots of it at work on my modules; It's a nice model from Hornby, and seems to have proved popular. Hopefully, we'll not only see the rod drive version, but some other industrials too. 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadmill Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 This is just marvellous. I wish I had 1/10th off your skill! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian777999 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 It's a nice model from Hornby, and seems to have proved popular. Hopefully, we'll not only see the rod drive version, but some other industrials too. Great result ; mine will definitely be painted yellow. Did you use Fox transfers wasp stripes on the sides (or pieces of them) ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 46444 Posted January 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2014 Great shots Arthur and a beautifully executed repaint. More photos please! Cheers, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted January 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2014 (edited) I have posted these before on the 'Cattewater' thread. This is how I want mine to look! Edited January 16, 2014 by Re6/6 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Great result ; mine will definitely be painted yellow. Did you use Fox transfers wasp stripes on the sides (or pieces of them) ? Hi Brian, No, not Fox. I spray yellow first and then cut 3mm strips from plain black decal sheet and cut and fit them. It's easier to get strips to fit round details and corners than it would be with large panels. Here it is part way through; Once positioned and dry enough to stay in place, they get two or three coats of Solvaset to settle them down before final trimming. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadmill Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I don't think I trust myself to accurately paint the wasp stripes so i'm planning to keep the ones already on the model. Using Arthurs guide I will remove the rest of the body and spray it and it's parts seperately and then re-attach. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsh7684 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Hi all, can anyone tell me the wheelbase of this little beauty please? Many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted January 20, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2014 The wheelbase is 6' 6". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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