Hunslet class 05

[ColinK]

Howes are now selling a sound chip for the 05.

[ColinK]

My 05 arrived has arrived back from Howes with their sound chip fitted. It was clearly a tricky job squeezing the decoder and speaker in, so well worth paying Howes to fit it. I gave it a quick run yesterday on Carnforth Model Shop's test track (many thanks for letting me use it). It does sound really good, indeed the amount of bass sound it makes is very impressive. No connection with Howes or Carnforth model shop, just a happy customer.

[AMJ]

Talking to Charlie Petty the other week at the Leeds Show says he should have some LEGO man sound chip's ready soon.

[Swindon 123]

Talking to Charlie Petty the other week at the Leeds Show says he should have some LEGO man sound chip's ready soon.

Have had a listen to the demonstration on U-tube and it sounds like an 05. They have used D2595 at Ribble Steam Railway for the sound. One point to note is that the sound file includes the sound for a spirax "air blowdown" valve. D2578 was not fitted with this type of valve, and as far as I know none of the Scottish ones were. I can't comment whether the later NE batch where fitted to them, but a quick look through the Hunslet air system diagram and list of parts for them does not show them as built. They may be an addition from when the D2595 & D2587 where refurbished by Hunslets for industrial use or an addition by BR?

 

Paul J.

[daveymills]

Tower Models now announcing the 7mm version :-)

 

due 2017

[25901]

Have had a listen to the demonstration on U-tube and it sounds like an 05. They have used D2595 at Ribble Steam Railway for the sound. One point to note is that the sound file includes the sound for a spirax "air blowdown" valve. D2578 was not fitted with this type of valve, and as far as I know none of the Scottish ones were. I can't comment whether the later NE batch where fitted to them, but a quick look through the Hunslet air system diagram and list of parts for them does not show them as built. They may be an addition from when the D2595 & D2587 where refurbished by Hunslets for industrial use or an addition by BR?

 

Paul J.

 

She didn't have spirax valves at Bury, that goes for D2587 too. Should know as I still have the nightmares about gear changes and pre select 

[legomanbiffo]

D2595 certainly appeared to be fitted with them, they sounded similar to the spirax valves I've heard on many other locos. Faithfully recorded and reproduced in my 05 sound project which is now ready. As well as these you have the following completely authentic sounds; playable horns, randomised coupling hook, playable brake application sounds, randomised door slams, brake dump, compressor, sanders, vacuum exhauster, handbrake, reverser crash. You can put the loco in forward and the transmission begins to rattle just like the prototype, but the loco doesn't move until you are ready. There are three different gear change sequences which are triggered via a function key. The engine sounds when accelerating are nice long sequences to add interest, without compromising throttle response.

[Porcy Mane]

Faithfully recorded and reproduced in my 05 sound project which is now ready. 

 Will you be making this sound project available on Zimo chips or will it be just ESU?

 

Thanks.

P 

Edited November 26, 2015 by Porcy Mane

[Swindon 123]

D2595 certainly appeared to be fitted with them, they sounded similar to the spirax valves I've heard on many other locos. Faithfully recorded and reproduced in my 05 sound project which is now ready. As well as these you have the following completely authentic sounds; playable horns, randomised coupling hook, playable brake application sounds, randomised door slams, brake dump, compressor, sanders, vacuum exhauster, handbrake, reverser crash. You can put the loco in forward and the transmission begins to rattle just like the prototype, but the loco doesn't move until you are ready. There are three different gear change sequences which are triggered via a function key. The engine sounds when accelerating are nice long sequences to add interest, without compromising throttle response.

Just a note to say that both the exhauster and compressor run continuously when the engine is running, being belt driven. The compressor is a Broome & Wade one and has an internal air control for when maximum air pressure is reached so there is no loud dump of air through an unloader valve as you have on an 03/04. Apart from that they can't be heard over the rattle of the gearbox, or more accurately on D2578, the clutch thrust bearing and gear changes anyway. Any movement of an 05 is usually accompanied by the crashing of gears, even in BR days, and even after 15 years of driving D2578, I still get it wrong sometimes, especially if she doesn't want to play ball. The following links are for a couple of vids taken in or around D2578 of it running.

 

https://youtu.be/_6UM7hAJrgw

 

https://youtu.be/pgTIG5qknzo

 

Paul J.

[legomanbiffo]

Paul, I found that although the compressor did run continuously as you say, it did not compress continuously, and there was a clear audible difference when it was loaded and compressing which could be heard if you were nearby. The exhauster was the same. Conversely, when the compressor stopped compressing the sound stopped quite suddenly but the exhauster faded out much more slowly after 'exhausting'. I chose to implement both at prototypically low volume levels in relation to the engine (with appropriate fade-outs) and these levels are also user-adjustable via CV if you think they are too loud.

 

I always make careful observation of such things and take time to speak to the drivers, owners and fitters to capture all the subtle nuances so I can incorporate them in the project. I don't just throw these things together! :-)

Edited November 27, 2015 by legomanbiffo

[25901]

Any movement of an 05 is usually accompanied by the crashing of gears, even in BR days, and even after 15 years of driving D2578, I still get it wrong sometimes, especially if she doesn't want to play ball.

 

And always happens on a "Thomas" event and you have to bite your tongue, will have to come down and see D2578 some time. Great locos to work on and work in lol

[Swindon 123]

And always happens on a "Thomas" event and you have to bite your tongue, will have to come down and see D2578 some time. Great locos to work on and work in lol

You have a PM.

 

Paul J.

[Tim Hall]

^{These really are excellent runners (DC). Just had mine on 52 4 wheeled Hornby/ Bachmann wagons/ brake vans, with only a hint of slipping. A friend who was "driving" it couldn't get it to stall on insulfrog points, even dead slow and without cleaning anything. Very impressed.}

Edited January 7, 2016 by Tim Hall

[paulco]

Hello All,

 

Have collected my 05 today, very impressed with slow running, but quite noisey at half throttle 

when in reverse, - on DC at moment and running in, will it get better? or should I take it back.

 

There are six lights, three on front and back, one lights up in foreward and one lights up in 

reverse, none of the centre lights seem to come on, is this normal.

 

Many thanks for help.

Paul

[No Decorum]

Hello All,

 

Have collected my 05 today, very impressed with slow running, but quite noisey at half throttle 

when in reverse, - on DC at moment and running in, will it get better? or should I take it back.

 

There are six lights, three on front and back, one lights up in foreward and one lights up in 

reverse, none of the centre lights seem to come on, is this normal.

 

Many thanks for help.

Paul

You should also have a red light at the rear. I'd say that white to the front and red to the rear is correct for running light engine on the main line. The model is made that way. The real thing would have had a white and a red at both ends when shunting. This is the first RTR shunter with any running lights, so perhaps we shouldn't expect too much!

 

As to running, it depends on the individual model. Of my three, I had one bad runner. I swapped the wheels with a good runner and the formerly good runner ran badly and the formerly bad runner ran well. The curious thing is that when I swapped the wheels back again, they both ran well. I've no idea why that should be.

 

All I can suggest is to continue running it in. Widespread opinion is that running in is beneficial but my own experience is that if a model does not run well out of the box, running in will not cure it. If you feel confident enough to do it, and the bad running persists, try opening it up and removing any excess grease, then relubricate using a suitable oil. If that doesn't cure it or you don't feel confident enough to do it, then send it back.

 

They're lovely little models. Good luck with yours!

[Porcy Mane]

Non of the centre lights are operational. The front lights are are considerably dimmer than the rears due to their design. See this post:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65792-hunslet-class-05/page-9&do=findComment&comment=1978998

 

Re erratic running. Mine ran perfect straight out of the box. Probably one of the most controllable RTR locos at slow speeds that  I've ever encountered. Before stripping it out to start converting to P4  etc. I ran the loco in for 30 minutes in each direction on a rolling road.

 

Towards the end of the hours running I noticed running had become noticeably rougher. Taking out the wheels and applying Voltage directly to the wiper pic ups running was perfect again.

 

Upon inspection of the original wheels I could see where the Nickel? coating on the wheels had started to wear away exposing the brass base metal of the tyre underneath. This shouldn't have made any difference to the running but it certainly seemed to.

I never investigated any farther as I was swapping the tyres for finer profile. You may be able to see (particurlarly on the left upper tyre) where the brass had started to become exposed.

 

P

 

[Swindon 123]

I have finally got around to EM'ing one of these locos using the original wheels. Although one has been running around Shenston Road using the original wheelsets just opened out without any problem, I decided to put them on the lathe and just take a little off the back and top of the wheel flange to my own preferred measurements. Access to the wheels was a simple matter of taking off the bottom keeper plate. this allowed the wheels and jackshaft to literally fall out. I found that with careful use of a pair of curved pointed tweezers between the coupling rods and the wheels, it was possible to pries the crankpin out of the wheel and free of the coupling rod. initially I freed up only the front and middle wheelsets from the coupling rods to work on. I was able to, with care, turn the flanges down on the wheels without taking them off the axles. When finished they carefully opened out on the axle to EM gauge. the photo below shows he before and after wheelsets.

 

There is just enough room to fit the EM gauged wheels back onto the loco within the confines of the brake gear. It is tight and to stop any side to side movement I put 3 fibre washers on either side on the front axle to stop any sideways movement. I left the middle axle to float. see photo below.

 

With the front and middle axles sorted I turned to the rear axle and jackshaft. The rear axle was treated in the same way as the front one and washers added to stop any lateral movement. The jackshaft was a different matter. The jackshaft does not go through the flycrank so cannot be moved out as can the wheels along the axle. After some trail and error I decided that the only solution was to manufacture a new jackshaft to move the flycranks out in line with the wheels. I settled on one 19mm long and fixed the flycranks on, correctly quartered. The wheels, jackshaft and coupling rods where then put back together. The crankpins where lightly tapped back into place with a small hammer on an flat surface very very carefully! The whole lot was put back into the chassis and once the keeper plate was refitted the chassis was tested. The photo below shows the wheels back in position ready for testing, although the jackshaft is not the right length and a little long in this shot.

 

Testing showed up that although the chassis ran the jackshaft and flycranks could easily foul the rear steps, so four 2mm fibre washers where added either side on the jackshaft to stop any side play. the photo below shows the jackshaft at the right length with the washers added.

 

The loco runs well and is easily capable of negotiating my minimum curve of 2ft 9inches. Opening out the wheels on the axle does leave the axle inset from the face of the wheels. To stop this looking odd I put black plastercine in the resulting holes to hide them. See photo below.

 

A relatively simple conversion if you are careful, although I appreciate you have to have access to a lathe to do it. However some of the issues I came across, especially with the jackshaft will be pertinent in other conversion techniques. Hope fully my experiences will help others to convert their locos.

 

Paul J.

[pauliebanger]

Excellent work.

 

Pity manufacturers don't make EM or P4 wheelsets available at the time of purchase. Lol

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[Porcy Mane]

A relatively simple conversion if you are careful, although I appreciate you have to have access to a lathe to do it. However some of the issues I came across, especially with the jackshaft will be pertinent in other conversion techniques. Hope fully my experiences will help others to convert their locos.

 

Nice work and it shows one of the big advantages EM has over P4. With no alternative wheels available for the wider gauges (and I suspect no direct replacements will become available in the foreseeable future) the simple "pull out" conversion to EM means very little hassle and virtually zero expense.

 

For me the conversion to P4 was a little more complex and involved turning up dies, holders and presses some of which ended up not being used. Difficult part was working out how to remove the original Heljan wheel centre without damage.

 

Got there in the end and this was the result. Originals and modified.

 

Heljan/Howes policy of supplying spares meant I was able to purchase the sprue that included spare sideframes which will be able to be laminated over the originals and still utilize the original wiper pick ups. I've sussed how I'm going to enable a bit of compensation into two of the axles and I might eventually etch up a set of coupling rods.

 

Sometimes, I wish I'd stuck to EM.

 

Pity manufacturers don't make EM or P4 wheelsets available at the time of purchase. Lol

 

Pity manufacturers can't fit the correct style radiator grills at the time of purchase. Lol

 

P

Edited January 25, 2016 by Porcy Mane

[Swindon 123]

Nice work and it shows one of the big advantages EM has over P4. With no alternative wheels available for the wider gauges (and I suspect no direct replacements will become available in the foreseeable future) the simple "pull out" conversion to EM means very little hassle and virtually zero expense.

 

For me the conversion to P4 was a little more complex and involved turning up dies, holders and presses some of which ended up not being used. Difficult part was working out how to remove the original Heljan wheel centre without damage.

Hlt05Medelling-103-editSm.jpg

 

Got there in the end and this was the result. Originals and modified.

Hlt05Medelling-163-©EditSm.jpg

 

Heljan/Howes policy of supplying spares meant I was able to purchase the sprue that included spare sideframes which will be able to be laminated over the originals and still utilize the original wiper pick ups. I've sussed how I'm going to enable a bit of compensation into two of the axles and I might eventually etch up a set of coupling rods.

 

Sometimes, I wish I'd stuck to EM.

 

 

Pity manufacturers can't fit the correct style radiator grills at the time of purchase. Lol

 

P

Nice lathe work on the wheels. Beyond my level of competence on a lathe. Most probably why I stuck to EM.

I hope it's not the 05 radiator grill you're complaining about. They should be right, except for the one on Cider Queen, which was turned around on the prototype for some reason when refurbished by Hunslet in 1968. Easily remedied by taking the one out of the model and turning it around. Despite my best efforts couldn't persuade Heljan to do it for the model. Had to do the reverse when restoring D2578.

Rad grill when fitted to Cider Queen. Mesh on the outside.

 

Rad grill on D2578, mesh to the inside. (as fitted to the original Scottish 05's).

 

Paul J.

[Porcy Mane]

I hope it's not the 05 radiator grill you're complaining about. 

 

No, no, not at all. The Heljan 05 front grill and etch is a lovely piece of work as intimated in my post here:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65792-hunslet-class-05/page-7&do=findComment&comment=1957826

 

I'm pretty sure Pauliebanger was wandering off topic by subtly referring to the fact that the SLW Class 24 is being offered with the option of 00, EM or P4 wheelsets. Something that has not been done since the short lived experiment with the Dapol J94.

Hence my reply about the Radiator Grill.

 

P

[pauliebanger]

No, no, not at all. The Heljan 05 front grill and etch is a lovely piece of work as intimated in my post here:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65792-hunslet-class-05/page-7&do=findComment&comment=1957826

 

I'm pretty sure Pauliebanger was wandering off topic by subtly referring to the fact that the SLW Class 24 is being offered with the option of 00, EM or P4 wheelsets. Something that has not been done since the short lived experiment with the Dapol J94.

Hence my reply about the Radiator Grill.

 

P

 

P,

 

That's just your wild imagination. Lol

 

However, it was nice of you to mention the SLW 24.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[Porcy Mane]

Pity manufacturers don't make EM or P4 wheelsets available at the time of purchase. Lol

 

That's just your wild imagination. Lol

 

Why mention it in the way you did then?

Anybody know of any other 4mm manufacturer that  that offers choice of  00, EM, and P4 that you are involved with then?

 

Your professional involvement with the SLW 24 (good as it is) and attempt at subliminal marketing is noted.

 

I'll leave it for others to decide on the nature and relevance of your remark.

 

Got the grills sorted yet? You can answer me via the appropriate SLW 24 thread so as not to clutter this one up.

 

P

Edited January 25, 2016 by Porcy Mane

[pauliebanger]

Why mention it in the way you did then?

Anybody know of any other 4mm manufacturer that  that offers choice of  00, EM, and P4 that you are involved with then?

 

Your professional involvement with the SLW 24 (good as it is) and attempt at subliminal marketing is noted.

 

I'll leave it for others to decide on the nature and relevance of your remark.

 

Got the grills sorted yet? You can answer me via the appropriate SLW 24 thread so as not to clutter this one up.

 

P

 

Oh dear.

 

I'm sorry you are so upset about this, it was no more than a tongue in cheek remark.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[Porcy Mane]

I'm sorry you are so upset about this, 

 

Now why would you think that? No not upset at all. 

 

Maybe observant.

So lets get back to 05's

 

P

Edited January 25, 2016 by Porcy Mane