sammyboy Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 It seems I have inspired you with the "Sheddington Junction" layout name, and now it's official as that's what you've called it and it all came from me!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Some of us Lunesters visit regularly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Some of us are just envious of the room, so I pop in for a moral boost. As Jeff (Physicsman) says, stick to the plan if you can it dose have great potential to run, shunt, and enjoy. Old Shedster. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 It seems I have inspired you with the "Sheddington Junction" layout name, and now it's official as that's what you've called it and it all came from me!! sammyboy Yes, thank you for your suggestion, it is likely I will place a signal box near the branch line to the quarry that will actually be called "Sheddington Junction" with the station itself likely to be "Sheddington" I will also try & find and have made up railway plaque made up with the name Sheddington Junction to go on the shed at the bottom of the garden Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Some of us are just envious of the room, so I pop in for a moral boost. As Jeff (Physicsman) says, stick to the plan if you can it dose have great potential to run, shunt, and enjoy. Old Shedster. Andy I think it is the idea that I can continuously run with plenty of oppertunity at the same time for shunting at the two yard areas that I like about it, I certainly don't want to loose that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 I don't seem to have planned my next task down the shed very well, I have track & points with droppers soldered on and ready to go down but no point motors to fit down yet. May have to retro-fit the first few although that is not ideal. I am going to be using Cobalt Digital point motors although I may have to use a few original ones here & there. Better get on the web & order a dozen, would be nice to have them here for the weekend Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 I now have some track actually fixed down on to the baseboard the droppers are soldered in place, I even hooked it up to my controller and my Class 08 went up & down almost ok, problem at bottom left hand point, looks like I may have fixed down to well on one sleeper will sort it out later, maybe at the weekend. I am unlikely to get down the shed again now until Friday when the order of the day will be soldering droppers on to track & points Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted January 29, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 29, 2013 Hi Billy. If you are going to use Cobalts, then you can take advantage of the in-built switch and hard wire the switch rail on the Peco points, thus improving their performance (as well as herring rid of the switch thing on the points). There is an article about it in Brm this month but if you are stuck, I can do one and pop piccies up. It's easy to do, all you need is a craft knife and a soldering iron. Basically, you isolate the frog so the polarity is controlled by the switch in the turnout, and you are not relying on the rails touching for electrical connectivity. P.s. I did look at your plan and thought that you could simplify it with a couple of slips; the wiring of them is pretty simple (especially with Cobalts). Cheers, Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 Hi Billy. If you are going to use Cobalts, then you can take advantage of the in-built switch and hard wire the switch rail on the Peco points, thus improving their performance (as well as herring rid of the switch thing on the points). There is an article about it in Brm this month but if you are stuck, I can do one and pop piccies up. It's easy to do, all you need is a craft knife and a soldering iron. Basically, you isolate the frog so the polarity is controlled by the switch in the turnout, and you are not relying on the rails touching for electrical connectivity. P.s. I did look at your plan and thought that you could simplify it with a couple of slips; the wiring of them is pretty simple (especially with Cobalts). Cheers, Jason Jason I have got the cobalt's & points sorted, I have been making changes to points isolating via removing 2 small wires & linking 2 others the already supplied link wire will go to the cobalt With regards to the slips was you thinking I should replace the diamond crossings with single slips, now this may be of interest to me, I am finding the crossings a bit tricky despite some input from Richard at DCC Concepts Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Hi Billy, I have just had a read through and it appears that you are getting a lot of sound advice and that it what the RM Web is all about. When you look at Jeff's, KL, and see the help and advice he has recieved in just 9 short Months it is trully phonaminal, (think I spelt that right?) The main thing is to ENJOY your layout. All the best Old Shedster. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Up & rearing to go and a extra couple of days off work, so 4 days down the shed, I have replenished stock, wire, flux & cobalt template delivered yesterday. Today's tasks, more soldering, droppers on to points & track (whilst watching AndyP's videos) and maybe getting some track fixed down later on. I also have one set of points to remove from the track & re-fix as my class 08 will not run over it, I think I was a bit to heavy handed with my hammer & nail punch when I put it down, it was my first piece of track to go down, now first to come back up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted January 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hi Billy, for the section you have laid above, you could simplify it greatly by using a single slip as shown below. You still have a facing point but it provides the same access to the third platform and yard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hi Billy, for the section you have laid above, you could simplify it greatly by using a single slip as shown below. You still have a facing point but it provides the same access to the third platform and yard Jason Thanks for the info, I am having a problems getting my head round the wiring for the crossovers, it's not so much the electrics part of it but understanding & seeing what the individual rail parts do and where they may short, I think the single slip may well be the way to go, especially as I have three similar junctions on the layout or will have one day Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hi Billy, I have just had a read through and it appears that you are getting a lot of sound advice and that it what the RM Web is all about. When you look at Jeff's, KL, and see the help and advice he has recieved in just 9 short Months it is trully phonaminal, (think I spelt that right?) The main thing is to ENJOY your layout. All the best Old Shedster. Andy Yes it's great to have yourself, Jason, Lord Lunester and all the other guys looking in and advising, it all certainly helps me to move things forward. It doesn't seem long ago that I was stuck with zero posts, lurking around for ages, not wanting to jump in and upset all you old hands (that's suppose to mean a site more experienced at this than I am) by intruding on your domain but their a friendly lot and I would advise anyone lurking out there to jump in Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted January 31, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 31, 2013 This might be a case of teaching granny to suck eggs, but I noticed that you mentioned buying in flux. If you are using flux on electrical connections, make sure it's either self neutralising such as Carrs Orange label flux, or you are using electrical solder with a built in roisin core. Otherwise you'll need to clean all traces of flux off the work you have just done. As most flux is corrosive, you will find that eventually it will corrode all the connections you have made with it. No need to ask how i know this! Regards Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 This might be a case of teaching granny to suck eggs, but I noticed that you mentioned buying in flux. If you are using flux on electrical connections, make sure it's either self neutralising such as Carrs Orange label flux, or you are using electrical solder with a built in roisin core. Otherwise you'll need to clean all traces of flux off the work you have just done. As most flux is corrosive, you will find that eventually it will corrode all the connections you have made with it. No need to ask how i know this! Regards Richard Thanks for the info Richard, I am using a resin core solder but I also use a small amount of Carrs yellow label flux on the track after cleaning it with fibreglass pen prior to fixing droppers, as you say it does need cleaning of the plastic if It gets on it, which it does, so a quick wipe down once joints are complete with a damp cloth Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hi Billy, lf l were you, l would have a layout all round the edge of the shed, say 2' - 3' wide, any wider then you would have a great job trying to reach anything that goes wrong?, and it will go wrong in all the places you can not reach, believe me l know from experience, so keep everything in reach, good luck with the layout, keep the pictures coming..... George. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hi Billy, I think George is right, I too know from experience that even doing a bit of scenic out of an arms reach can have a detremental effect on things such as signals, Buildings,etc. REMEMBER that an average reach is 30 inches, more than that and you are STREATCHING, aLL the best, Old Shedster. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hi Billy, lf l were you, l would have a layout all round the edge of the shed, say 2' - 3' wide, any wider then you would have a great job trying to reach anything that goes wrong?, and it will go wrong in all the places you can not reach, believe me l know from experience, so keep everything in reach, good luck with the layout, keep the pictures coming..... George. Thanks for the advice George, about 80% of the layout as good access, the rest, is a concern, the 2 areas that are 4 ft wide have actually had an additional 1 ft added on (to the front) to alter it from 3 to 4 ft, I am hoping to be able to remove much of the additional base & its something I am looking at now, the plan will have to have a bit of a tweak. Great videos with Andy P, I will be calling in looking for more in the future (should you find the time) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Not much to show with regards to laying of track, so I thought I would show you my work bench for the days soldering session. It's very important to have everything to hand, it helps your work flow. Luckily the shed is well within range of the home WiFi so I can keep up with everything on the forums and do any research if I need to, Music in the background as well, Chris Rea at the moment A typical PECO electrofrog, links cut to isolate & rails joined with droppers soldered in place Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Can't fault you on Chris Rea mate, Shed looks good inside. The Old Shedster Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Can't fault ther choice of music and you're progressing will. Looking forward to seeing the changes. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Can't fault ther choice of music and you're progressing will. Looking forward to seeing the changes. Duncan Thanks Duncan, three more whole days of work, so should get some track down & have something to show by Sunday evening but then again, I may well get dragged out to the shops or even the pub, so that could be a day gone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hi While your at modifying your points electrically you can improve the appearance of the switch area by cutting away the spring mechanism and motor lugs as your using cobalts. Nice space you have there. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Hi While your at modifying your points electrically you can improve the appearance of the switch area by cutting away the spring mechanism and motor lugs as your using cobalts. Nice space you have there. Ray. Thanks Ray, I will have a look at that tomorrow, I new I had to remove the spring but hadn't realised the spring housing could also be removed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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