Jump to content
 

Hunters Lane WCML in N


bmthtrains - David
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

O gauge has radio control with batteries, doesn't it?

 

I suppose one problem we'd face would be how big a battery we could put in our locos. For N scale we might need to hide extra batteries in the rolling stock. Wireless charging points under the track in stations and sidings would help but then you're getting complicated again and certainly more expensive.

 

For me just having a simpler 'many wires to one' connector would help. I'm currently thinking about joining multiple droppers together in a terminal block then connecting the block to the bus thus reducing the number of suitcase connectors. It'd also help if Peco gave us a pigtail for frog power on Electrofrog turnouts.

 

But you've done a good job of keeping it tidy. I'm afraid all I'm going to do is connect the wires then clip the bus to the underside. The droppers will be left to hang as they see fit.

Edited by AndrueC
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
3 hours ago, bmthtrains - David said:

A lot of work later and the left hand board is fully wired. Once the second board is complete I will go through a period of extensive testing before moving on to painting rails and ballasting just to make sure all the soldered connections are good enough.
 

There surely has to be a better way to control model railways now - the level of skill required just to wire this fairly simple layout is mind boggling. DCC just adds more complexity if you ask me, and what I’d really like is battery powered stock controlled wirelessly. Then the track literally just sends the trains in the right direction with no wiring needed at all.
 

David 

 

FD2D66FE-A503-46F0-BE1A-27C98456CD7B.jpeg.83b9c58434b306e6a77f5f30e8b3f18a.jpeg

Hi David,

Nice neat job of wiring there, looks good. This may be me (and I am honestly not trying to be argumentative!) but how does DCC make it more complex?  In its base, it is simpler than a separate DC feed for each running line, as they all come from the same bus, if you want to add detection in, its no different than separate feeds for cab control on DC really.  Plus with an accessory bus, point motors etc, can be powered and controlled from two wires, it has to be easier than DC!

 

Having said that, I do know what you mean about modern day.  There is a an American system, which can be purchased through Digitrains at Lincoln (no connection) that gives you a PCB that you connect to the track power on your DCC command station, and that broadcasts the DCC signal as a radio wave.  Locos then pick up power either from standard DC/AC power to the track or batteries (or swap around) and have a small radio receiver for the DCC signal.  Very clever and simple and would save 90% of the connection between boards, just needing a straight forward track/bus power.  However, it may need a few more years of electrics and battery technology before its small enough for N gauge - but I have seen it working on OO.

 

Anyway, great progress with the layout both above and below the boards!

Rich

Link to post
Share on other sites

David, The layout is looking amazing, you have done so much in such a short time. Your standard of modelling is off the scale.  When you are testing could we have some pictures and maybe a video, please.  
 

Look forward to future updates 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

In trying to avoid more of the boring job of wiring I did another boring job instead today - painting rails! So far I’ve just done the Down Fast on the left hand board but it’s gone better than I anticipated given the tiny rail height of code 55 track.

 

After that I started to think about what needs to be in place before ballasting can start, so laid out some concrete trunking, trackside lights, point motors etc to work out where they need to go.

 

Tomorrow hopefully a little bit more wiring will get done if the motivation hits me.

 

David

 

121D59DD-93CB-4527-B4D6-9DA0A74A1A46.jpeg.15db29fd5f2369f00c5ef06337d9fff1.jpeg

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

Enough of the wiring is complete now that I can start on a few more scenic bits. The yard and inner track electrics on the right hand board will be a big job but this weekend I’ve taken a break and started some detailing on the left hand board: painting points concrete colour, some rail painting, building the second bridge, and laying out some of the lineside troughs and concrete bases for OHLE, signals and electrical cabinets.

 

Before I can contemplate ballasting this board I also need to add the tiny trackside lights, ground signals, and drainage catch pits.

 

David 

 

B1BC860A-9E2E-4429-BE26-D3690FD97D32.jpeg.a2ac78e44ec01aaa015c7618cbc33d70.jpeg

  • Like 15
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

A little more progress over the weekend with the bridge painting underway, the track painting on the left board completed, and I’ve now added the trackside lights ready for ballasting to begin.

 

Getting the weathering of the ballast right is going to be tricky as I want this to look fresh and evocative of the heavy renewals on the WCML rebuild, but also to not look ‘fresh from the shaker’. A while until I need to start mixing colours for the airbrush but whatever I do will need to be a light touch.

 

David 

 

 

 

F6080838-CE6E-4819-A2D5-29C44B775D4B.jpeg

  • Like 16
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I think I'm a convert to foam underlay now (Gaugemaster's is apparently closed cell so won't degrade). It can have its fiddly moments but the result is much quieter running - I can now hear the motor whine over the sound of the wheels. However for turnouts I'm using cardboard. GM do offer a solution but it's a couple of sheets of foam (which has to be doubled up to match the rail height which I find odd) and a bag of ballast. On my last layout I avoided the turnout mechanisms and was happy enough with the result so I'll probably do the same.

Edited by AndrueC
Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, bmthtrains - David said:

Time for the scary bit - saturating the ballast and trying not to think about scraping all that glue out of the point mechanisms in a couple of days time…

 

David 

 

D125C502-9D04-49FA-BBF5-4465345374A7.jpeg.201c5286029aa97e20f964407635f701.jpeg


Looking good David 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve roughly ballasted a set of spare short sections of track so over the weekend I can hopefully try some weathering tests. Looking at reference images I can see getting it right is both easy and difficult. The easy bit is ballast colour is incredibly varied depending on location, age, what runs on the track, the time of year, the weather, etc. so pretty much anything goes. The difficult bit is capturing the specific ‘renewals and rebuild’ feel of the WCML I’m after.

 

82751036-E260-4996-8139-7F5F8E354957.jpeg.51a27accab56471c20a2ff7342744f9c.jpeg

 

I will try a few light base coats of ochres, greys, and browns to blend it all in and introduce some tonal variation, and a thin coat of a darker brown between the rails first but I don’t want a heavily weathered look as this is all supposed to be recently ballasted track.

 

David

 

 

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I don't know if this image is any help, but the track through platform 6 at Milton Keynes was relaid over Christmas 2018, and this image was taken 21/3/19. I think you can see the join where the realtively new has been replaced with brand new just in front of the train. You can see different colours on the rail either sides of the weld. The ballast is still clean with the join blended in. This section was relaid because problems with drainage IIRC.

 

Note white painted rails on the points in platform 5...

 

390124_1c.JPG.5f034070c4e0923f26c980a58ac6b14c.JPG

  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Doing a few weathering tests with my airbrush I’m learning it’s actually much easier to represent old ballast than it is ballast that has been recently laid. I don’t want a squeaky clean look as if it’s been down a few hours, but at the same time it needs to feel recent - a few months old perhaps.

 

From the tests below I think I’ve come up with a suite of colours to lightly spray on the track - a fine mist of an ochre, then a thin coat of grey, and a touch of a concrete colour between the tracks. My best attempt on this sample board is bottom left. 
 

C2FC66CB-E458-4EB6-89E8-0496D031D7CB.jpeg.dc39ec270ce2e7bf160fbed626091782.jpeg

 

I will also add a little more of the darker concrete colour to the reception track and anywhere diesels might linger. Not as strong as the far right sample but that kind of colour.

 

Placing the sample next to the fresh ballast gives a good idea of the subtle difference. Just adding some tonal variation across the tracks will help them soften into the scene more.

 

David

 

8628FCB9-ACAF-4F49-A8C8-91968F8F032C.jpeg.5abc55601f1989477419df2b0ffafa00.jpeg

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

This morning I’ve been playing with some scenic materials. Much of the layout will be urban but there will be two areas with trees and grass by the bridges. Having come across the excellent Martin Welberg range of products I ordered a couple of packs to see what they are like. A simple test scene with them mixed in with lots of different bushes and grasses from my scenery box has shown that actually I need to go bigger. Much larger bushes are needed to give the right sense of scale for overgrown embankments etc. Come payday I shall order a few more items to continue experimenting with.

 

David 

 

A3039D32-1B71-4357-92DB-110E19B63889.jpeg.4c07499f4cf8d495060a72cc0ffdb455.jpeg

 

51AC26C4-DB1E-4FAB-B3DC-F299B9972D88.jpeg.bbf29b238a9314718e2191d413b9cf51.jpeg

 

B7BF2A6C-6233-47F7-9594-2507FDD99D3B.jpeg.cf0382e8f71dfa9f0b95190719bbc607.jpeg

 

9353F840-E276-4EFC-9DF3-CB024AAC9F72.jpeg.fdbb389d5529e911b948d2a588fcb92d.jpeg

Edited by bmthtrains - David
  • Like 16
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...