tender Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Thanks Peter. Step one complete, now looking for some 3/16 rod to make sure I get the bearings in straight. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Very nice so far Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 In the absence of a O gauge chassis jig I'm going to 'bodge' something up for soldering in the bearings as there's a modicum of slop between them and the chassis holes. Just need to know what the wheel spacing should be (39.5mm?) or could sacrifice a pair of connecting rods to set the spacing as there seems to be plenty of them (6 brass+2 N/S). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Ray The wheel base for Ivor should be 39.71 not 39.5 if you make the wheel base smaller you will run into problems use some of the fret border to make two wheelbase jigs at 39.71mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 In the absence of a O gauge chassis jig I'm going to 'bodge' something up for soldering in the bearings as there's a modicum of slop between them and the chassis holes. Just need to know what the wheel spacing should be (39.5mm?) or could sacrifice a pair of connecting rods to set the spacing as there seems to be plenty of them (6 brass+2 N/S). Ray, I would always use the rods when setting up a coupled chassis, there are a couple of spares anyway, the correct wheelbase is crucial to decent running, otherwise you will be filing oval holes in the rods! (Been there, seen it, done it, got the oval files - it doesn't work) Droitwich Ivor (4?) has not had much done while waiting for paint to dry, I have built up a voltage regulator for the test 'el-cheapo' sound. This provides a 3.3v supply for the mini MP3 player, I might also put one in for the front lights if they are a bit too bright. He's also now got red buffer beams, there's some doubt about the back one, some illustrations show it as black, some as body colour, but I have stuck with traditional red. Now all I have to do today is find that bl***y lining pen. A trip to DCC Supplies is also on the cards to get a chip, speaker, stay alive capacitor and other goodies to get the chassis back together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thanks Pete, the 39.5 was just a guesstimate using a rule which is why I asked the question. I might just sacrifice a pair of rods as Peter220950 suggested, drilling out the holes to suit the wheel fixing screws. I can then screw them to the axel ends using them as a jig supporting the 'flats' of the axels across the jaws of an engineers vice while I solder the bearings in place. Something like this but with the rods attached. If this sounds daft please shout now. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Ray Your idea is a good one but can I suggest that when you have made the jig using the rods that you use wooden close pegs to hold the bearings in place as a metal vice like that will take all of the heat from the soldering iron and you will nevef be able to fix the bearings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 If ever I was going to be tempted in to 0 gauge this is it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Quick update on my build methinks. Motor, gearbox and wheels are en-route, and should be with me by next weekend. I have the following week off, in which I'll be able to crack right into the build further. Most of the major components are assembled and I did a trial fitting this evening. DSC_0262 by Coldgunner, on Flickr DSC_0260 by Coldgunner, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Good progress Coldgunner, Progress from N Wales is a bit slower, but we do have a rolling chassis albeit still without connecting rods which is the next job. The two Nickel Silver rods were sacrificed for the jig so will only have the three brass laminations. Hope these will be thick enough. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Why can't you still use the N/S sandwiched between the brass? Just a thought. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Ivor has been caught in the rain and shrunk. I will post more info on the Ivor thread in the PH Designs section of the forum when I have it. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 How well has he scaled in comparison to other 4mm loco's? I know he's slightly overscale in 7mm. Also, it looks to me like you've made him slimmer, is that correct? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Why can't you still use the N/S sandwiched between the brass? Just a thought. Jeff I probably could but reading back through the thread it's implied (maybe wrongly) that the N/S rod with a washer each side replaced the brass laminate.Not having started the body I'm not sure how much clearance there is for the crank pins so don't want to make the rods too thick, but like the idea of the chunky brass laminate. Maybe Pete could enlighten us on how it should be? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 The rods were designed using just the brass parts but OzzyO recommend thickening them up hence the use of the Nickle Silver parts if you can still use the Nickle parts I would use them Ray. Ivor has scaled well the only thing I had to change was to make the frames narrower after they had been scaled down to increase the clearance. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 I can see 4mm Ivor being a hit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Hi Pete, Yay! Ivor in 4mm scale! The Little Didcot fleet will be getting a fictional member! I will definitely be buying one of these... All the best, Castle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
69843 Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Hi Pete, Yay! Ivor in 4mm scale! The Little Didcot fleet will be getting a fictional member! I will definitely be buying one of these... All the best, Castle Anything green for you lot...... The 4mm Ivor looks good. Might have to think about buying one so he can see New, South Wales! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 The rods were designed using just the brass parts but OzzyO recommend thickening them up hence the use of the Nickle Silver parts if you can still use the Nickle parts I would use them Ray. Pete Thanks Pete, I've salvaged the Nickel rods and laminated these to the three brass ones and added one of the washers on the etch as well to bring the thickness up to something near that of the crankpin bushes.Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Do be aware that it's entirely acceptable, indeed expected, to file down the crankpin bushes to match the rods instead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 Anything green for you lot...... The 4mm Ivor looks good. Might have to think about buying one so he can see New, South Wales! From North Wales to New South Wales, it's not that far, after all he did go on holiday once to South Wales. After he got loconapped. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
69843 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 It's only a boat ride away..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Across in Worcestershire, you may have been thinking why, when I drilled out Ivors' chimney, did I drill it all the way through, when there was a perfectly good spigot on the bottom. There was a good reason, My name is Ivor, and I am an addict................ I had planned to put a smoke unit in, which has now been dropped in place ready to be fired up. I then spent three days cleaning out the workroom to find the lining pen, to no avail, it seems to have gone the same way as a ZTC 511 controller a couple of years ago, and has totally disappeared. I have lost the handle and medium nib, I did have the fine nib left, but no handle, so it was down to holding it by hand to get the lining moving. So now he's lined and awaiting transfers, fittings and fixtures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 My name is Ivor, and I am an addict................ Thinking about it, it may have something to do with chasing the Dragon ?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 If you want more decals let me know Peter and you will probably find the brush it on/wipe it off method is better than a lining pen if you have a very glossy coat of green on the model. Pete, Sorry to be a pain but I do need a pair of side decals, I screwed one up royally and the other one is not perfect, I think I've got the hang of them now though, the front one is on o.k. Can you let me know what I owe you for a set and I will send payment and an SAE. The wiring to the lamps and smoke unit were installed today, The lamps have been fixed The floor, coal space and steps were painted black and the gauges and dials were cleaned up before tackling the transfers, though as noted above they didn't go too well, with only the front one completed. - Excuse Ivor's runny nose In the meantime there have been other things going on, I didn't mention a couple of weeks ago that I also made a small part out of plastikard. for what reason you may ask? It's so that a Jones the Steam figure could be made to stand, holding the handrail, and I have it on good authority that it's coming along well, and awaiting a trial fitting in the next couple of weeks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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