peter220950 Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 I tried it with long nosed pliers and tweezers from the other side of the cab, and it seems do-able, the biggest problem is getting the nuts on in the first place. I pop a bit of Blu-Tack on the end of a file then start them off. - And I'll have to be careful not to chip paint from the cab openings once finished. It's a bit of a pain, but much easier than having to either mask off the handrails, clean the paint off, or paint them brass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Nut spinners are your friends. Or make a box spanner out of some brass tube, get some tube that is just over the size of the nut A/F and squash it to fit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Nut spinners are your friends. Or make a box spanner out of some brass tube, get some tube that is just over the size of the nut A/F and squash it to fit. Never used them before, probably just another set of things for me to lose one of. (the one I actually need) It's difficult to judge with gadgets whether they will be useful or not, I don't know how I managed without my £15.00 digital calipers but rarely, if ever use the Hold and Fold. Are they limited to a square-on approach to the thread? - I will certainly try squashing a bit of tube as it would save the risk of damaging paint finish, the nuts don't need to be too tight, a spot of Locktite to stop them shaking loose should do the trick. ...............still it would be nice to have some friends! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Handrail knobs arrived Saturday to allow completion of the bodywork, I decided, after watching some of the video's, that I would opt for 6 knobs fitted radially, and evenly spaced, so I filled the three redundant holes with solder and re-marked the holes to the new spacings. A pair of handrail knobs were drilled for a third hole, (a very fiddly operation), and the tank sides were drilled, using a knob as a guide. The handrail wire was rolled to the boiler diameter, and one of the prepared handrail knobs was soldered to two pieces of wire, (another very fiddly job). The remaining knobs were threaded onto the wire, and the whole was pushed into position to allow the last drilled knob to be soldered up. Hopefully tomorrow will see paint on the chassis and final prep to the body. The balance weights for the wheels were filled with body filler and the wheels cleaned up ready for paint. The chassis, gearbox, and wheels have had a coat of etch primer, and are now hardening off, the body has also had a couple of hours of paint prep, ready for priming once the steps are soldered on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Wow, progressing well. Mines not changed since the last pictures, just some odd cab details and the connecting rods done. The side tanks are done too. I'm pretty much waiting on the boiler being rolled*. I've also put together the chassis, which is awaiting the gearbox, motor and wheels. I'm enjoying this kit, seems much easier than the Nellie starter kit I built. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I'm pretty much waiting on the boiler being rolled*. . Have you sent it yet? - I thought I might get it last week, but nothing's arrived yet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Peter Are those wheels insulated from each other? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Pete, Yes, they come from the pre-historic and pre-Slaters age when you bought castings and cut every other spoke with a coping saw, put Araldite in, then cut the remaining spokes and did the same, two have had the treatment. If you look closely at the grey ones, there's still a bit of a groove in the one on the left which requires a spot of filler, the trick is to make sure you put them both on the same side of the chassis, so far I've managed one on each side front and back, and two on one axle, third time lucky I hope, otherwise it's going to have to be the first three rail version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Sorry about that, bit of a delay, will get it in the post tomorrow. Have you sent it yet? - I thought I might get it last week, but nothing's arrived yet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 No problem, I was just a bit worried that it had gone astray, Nothing much happening to Ivor today, the rods and wheels got a coat of red oxide primer, then red for the spokes, I now have the ball-ache of masking the spokes, I did it this way around as red is notoriously difficult to cover so I wanted it on a red primer, the spokes will be masked and the rims re-coated with primer then green, once I have settled on colour. The chassis and gearbox have been sprayed black, the pick-ups fitted, and the chassis re-assembled. The body has had the resin funnel and filler attached The backhead detail has been coated in Maskol And at last the steps have been fitted Finally the lights have been finished, with lenses fitted and the tops painted. Hopefully tomorrow will see a first coat of etch primer to see what state the body is in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Ivor progress continues, but at a slower pace due to gardening work in the good weather . Buffers were glued together and given a coat of silver followed by a coat of steel colour, I may have to give it a bit of Metalcote later. And the teapot, now filled, has been painted. A test wheel was masked up and 'Ivor paint' procured. Then the couplings were assembled and blackened. On the 'poncing about' front the Ivor nameplates from the etches were polished and lacquered, for use in the future. And what a good idea this is in the kit. Today saw the Boiler Shop visited by a couple of 'foreigners', Which were soon converted to and sent on their way, so let's not have any shyness, we want to see these builds progressing, I'm running out of things to photograph, it will soon be time to pass the baton on to others. Having obtained the green paint I had a go with the test wheel, And finally Ivor became grey, There's now a few hours of prep to get the primer base as smooth as I can before he turns green. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Embarrassingly, I've still got to order the wheels and motor. Poor old Ivor is gonna be legless for a while! The frames were folded on mine the other night ready for the gubbins to go on it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Embarrassingly, I've still got to order the wheels and motor. Poor old Ivor is gonna be legless for a while! The frames were folded on mine the other night ready for the gubbins to go on it.Well, you're doing better than me, I've got all the bits apart from the handrail knobs but as yet not had time to make a start. Hopefully when the rolled boiler arrives it will give me the incentive to get on with it.Thanks must go to Peter220950 for his kind offer for putting the boiler etch through his rollers. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Indeed! So far I've found the kit easy to put together, with little fettling needed, a nod to Pete Harveys design. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 It feels like I'm beginning to get somewhere now, the remaining 3 wheels have been masked and sprayed, And just need to harden off a bit before chucking them up in the lathe to scrape the paint off the wheel rims. More importantly Ivor has had his first coat of green, there's still a way to go to sort a couple of blemishes and a second coat with more emphasis on the top, (first coat was mainly from underneath and the sides), but I need to leave it a few days to allow the paint to harden off. One of the downsides of the Plasticote green is that it's an enamel and takes much longer to dry than the cellulose and acrylics that I am used to. I shall use the time to sort a chip out and get the chassis wired and run-in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Ivor had a rub down with wet and dry today, to sort a couple of blemishes in the paint, this was then followed by what I hope will be the final coat, which looks quite promising. - I couldn't resist putting a bit of 'bling' on once it had reached touch-dry. Ian/OzzyO - What, if any, varnish did you use over the transfers? - I'm not sure about spraying on top of this Plastikote stuff. - I would usually use and acrylic, but suspect it may react. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 I have used that plasticote paint stuff on my sons Dalek ( dont ask) And you can buy plasticote clear and satin varnish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 I have used Precision Pre Thinned Satin and Mat on top of Plastikote paint before with out any problems Peter. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 I have used that plasticote paint stuff on my sons Dalek ( dont ask) And you can buy plasticote clear and satin varnish. I have used Precision Pre Thinned Satin and Mat on top of Plastikote paint before with out any problems Peter. Pete Many thanks to you both,being lazy I might give the rattle can a go rather than dig the airbrush out. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted May 18, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 18, 2014 Oh but PP Satin from an airbrush is soooooo good Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Oh but PP Satin from an airbrush is soooooo good Give it a week for the paint to harden, the red bits painted, transfers on, and time to find the lining pen, and you could find my conscience will agree with you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 If you want more decals let me know Peter and you will probably find the brush it on/wipe it off method is better than a lining pen if you have a very glossy coat of green on the model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted May 19, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 19, 2014 And what a good idea this is in the kit. DSCF1355.JPG Why thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Hi everyone, well i'm just about to make a start on 'Ivor' and my lack of experience is showing at the first step. I was just about to make the first fold of the chassis as shown in the manual photos and i'm wondering why fold the chassis sides down first and then fold the floor rather than fold the floor and then fold down the side? I'm sure there must be a logical explanation for this but I cant think of it, so I thought I'd ask before I c**k it up. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Hi everyone, well i'm just about to make a start on 'Ivor' and my lack of experience is showing at the first step. I was just about to make the first fold of the chassis as shown in the manual photos and i'm wondering why fold the chassis sides down first and then fold the floor rather than fold the floor and then fold down the side? I'm sure there must be a logical explanation for this but I cant think of it, so I thought I'd ask before I c**k it up. Ray. The side folds are much longer than the end step, and it's therefore easier to use folding bars, or even vice jaws, to carry out the side folds before the back bit is folded. Folding it this way means that you are folding the flap on the end of a channel section, which is a more rigid structure. I'm not sure, like you, that it matters that much, but it's the way I did it, and it worked well for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.