emperordalek Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Malcolm, I think I understand your question....the challenges are as follows: The Hornby compound has the rear of the cylinders, with slide bars, cross heads etc attached to the stretcher on the chassis. But the cylinder covers/ front of the cylinders are on the body moulding and attached to the footplate. On the GBL the cylinders are a one piece moulding with the valve gear and attached to the footplate in lugs and to the Muzak chassis casting. Your choices, as I see them: 1. Carefully remove the cylinder covers from the Hornby body moulding and glue them to the cylinders - probably easiest 2. Take the GBL cylinder mouldings snip off the slide bars, cross head, etc and then trim them to fit the Hornby chassis my preferred option as I intended to keep the Loco in the GBL livery. 3. Fashion new cylinders, stretcher and associated valve gear using Comet components or similar - more involved and expensive If I were repainting the loco, I may have gone for the first option. Airfix 2p test fit to follow, but this will need you to add valve gear, coupling rods, etc.... Did I get the right end of the stick? Steve Thanks steve for that comprehensive reply I think Option 1 is the safest with my level of skills. On the subject of Airfix 2Ps there's no need to just for my account, but others may well aprreciate it. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69843 Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Heads up for all Aussie Rmwebbers, if you haven't heard already issue number one has just hit newsagents downunder today! The price is $5.95 I'll have to check the local. Hopefully they have it in stock-missed out on the Hatchette Mk1s due to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 .....Airfix 2p test fit to follow, but this will need you to add valve gear, coupling rods, etc.... 2P will only need coupling rods, not valve gear (unless you're planning to make and install working inside motion!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Hi all, Well has the GBL series come to the end of the line. Their website has not been updated with the next loco to be released, It still shows the Butler-Henderson as the last loco. The new release has usually been posted by now. Cypherman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61650gtfc Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 The HST has been listed for a few days. Is your PC looking at an old version of the website as I can see it on mine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidsmith_uk Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I'm one of the silent majority(?) who has followed this thread from the beginning and collected some of the GBL models. Only now have I joined the forum so that I can show you my own work motorising and detailing one of the earlier releases since some of the regular contributors here have urged us to do this. First I have to say how much I appreciate your contributions to this topic, either with your modelling tips, historical information or sources of modelling materials. It has helped me very much in my endeavours. The model I decided to upgrade has not received much publicity here. In fact, I believe there has only been one other posting showing an upgrade. (Back on Page 64 by darrel). OK, to stop beating about the bush it is the Southern Battle of Britain. I think it is fair to say the raw GBL model received more criticism than praise here and I'm reminded of The Weathering Man's review "GBL release is really a total non-starter due to distorted dimensions that totally ruin, in particular but not only, the frontal aspect of the locomotive and will be next to impossible to correct". Well, after studying the obvious faults I found the front end was much easier than expected to remodel and get very close to the correct dimensions, providing we choose to model a locomotive that does not have the lower side valance. The entire story of 'how I did it' is published on my Blog (the other blogging service). Not sure if I can give a link here but I dare say you will find it. The GBL BoB loco was re-liveried as BR(S) West Country 34040 Crewkerne, early crest and fitted with a Hornby motorised chassis. 'Why I did it' is interesting because my first motivation was cost (apart from the fact I am an avid BR(S) modeller). I could not resist the favourable price of the GBL offering believing motorising it would be cheaper than a r.t.r. model. Overall, the cost has been a bit below the average price of a second hand r.t.r. Considering the work and time required for conversion, it cannot be a recommended approach for casual modellers. But, what price can you put on the creative process and sheer pleasure of turning a second rate model into something to be proud of? Here it is. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 ....The entire story of 'how I did it' is published on my Blog (the other blogging service). Not sure if I can give a link here but I dare say you will find it. Start here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Work in progress of my k3 to k4 conversion, rivet counters may wish to look away now. New chimney and boiler dome added, no idea what make they are they were given to me by another member of the model railway club. And wire handrails fitted 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I see that I've traduced Colin Seymour above - he will mill chassis frames (Alan Gibson) for £11.50 if you can provide a drawing, not £25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperordalek Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 My GBL "Standard 4MT" is up for sale. I would just require basic cost plus cost of Royal Mail postage medium parcel. The model is still sealed in original packaging and is intact. Please Pm me if interested. thanks. Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 OK, to stop beating about the bush it is the Southern Battle of Britain. Just thinking - I wonder how many they'd have sold if they'd done an unrebuilt MN instead (using a HD/Wrenn master?) And would it be possible to build an unrebuilt MN from two GBL BoB/WC class? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I don't think Hornby Dublo made any type of Merchant Navy Loco. Graham Farish OO Gauge was, as far as I know the only RTR MN (but was it correct, or a West Country/ BoB in disguise?) Wrenn used the Hornby Dublo Re-built WC as a Re-built MN, similar, but not quite the same... The Wrenn Unconverted locos were also used for BoB/WC and MN, but which was it based on? (Thinking WC/ BoB...) I am "working on" making something like an Unconverted MN. Using Tri-ang Hornby and Airfix/ Dapol parts. (Only planning and parts gathering so far...) (Another "work in progress here...) Not very accurate, but here is a "Tri-ang" Re-built MN.... This is a Britannia body with Kitamster/Airfix/Dapol BoB Cab and smokebox door. Modified Triang BFB Drivers (Crank pin fitted.), Brit Cylinders and Valve Gear. Cut Down Tri-ang Hornby BoB 4,500 Gallon Tender. (Something more MN 5,000 Gallons is in the works...) Yes, I agree, the Hornby Model is far better! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nedrahn Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Love the 'Triang' MN, Sarahagain. No, it isn't the most accurate model, but it is in the spirit of a past age of modelling. I've been looking at some 50s and 60s railway modelling mags recently. It's amazing just how many clever conversions there were. I think all of the LMS taper boiler 4-6-0s were produced from cut about Triang Princesses! I have a Battle of Britain that my Dad made for me when I was very young. It's an Airfix body built around a cut down Triang Princess, complete with spoked wheels (sorry for any heart attacks out there). Is it accurate? No, obviously not. Would some modellers laugh at it? Yes, I imagine they would. Would i dispose of it? NEVER. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 (edited) Just thinking - I wonder how many they'd have sold if they'd done an unrebuilt MN instead (using a HD/Wrenn master?) And would it be possible to build an unrebuilt MN from two GBL BoB/WC class? THe HD/Wrenn loco is a rebuilt WC and Wrenn later issued an unrebuilt WC (some castings are still available). IIRC Wrenn issued both as MNs, but..... AFAIK the only R-T-R MN is the ancient Farish version... AFAIK the main difference is the MN is slightly longer, principally visible in the coupled wheelbase, so probably possible (SR experts will probably shoot me down). The Kitmaster/Airfix/Dapol kit may be of assistance - at least the wheels go round. EDIT As Sarah said there is a rumour that the Farish MN is a tad short and nearer to a WC/BoB (I don't have one, so I don't know for sure - I only have a Dublo Rebuilt and an Airfix body on a Dublo A4 chassis* (what Dublo should have done, seeing their financial position, as it would only have involved new body, wheel and tender tooling). *She does have Wrenn wheels, bogie and pony. Edited September 16, 2014 by Il Grifone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjp23480 Posted September 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 16, 2014 (edited) Thanks steve for that comprehensive reply I think Option 1 is the safest with my level of skills. On the subject of Airfix 2Ps there's no need to just for my account, but others may well aprreciate it. RegardsMalcolm, Took a look at the Airfix 2p I have and whilst I was not able to fit it to the GBL body I could see how it would work: The cast weight is quite large and so the splashers need to be trimmed further to accommodate it. I believe the chassis will fit the GBL footplate with careful measuring and judicious trimming. The mounting crew that holds the pony truck and screws into the original body does not line up with the mounting lug under the GBL boiler. So will need a new hole to be tapped to accommodate the mounting screw. Another mounting hole needs to be tapped under the cab at the rear of the chassis to secure them together. Otherwise, looks quite straightforward. Steve Edited September 16, 2014 by sjp23480 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Bit more work done on my K4 reversing lever added using microstrip. One thing I noticed was the K4 boiler looks smaller than the K3 it is particularly noticeable at the front of the cab there is a bigger distance from the top of the cab roof to the top of the boiler, it's probably a smaller diameter boiler. Compare the two line drawings in the magazine and you will see what I mean. So I have cut a couple of millimetres from the bottom of the firebox, and tried to lower the boiler at the front end. It's not perfect but looks more like a K4. It's not for rivet counters though. So far though it's only cost me the price of some handrail knobs and wire. The K4 is at the front with an untouched K3 behind for comparison 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperordalek Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Malcolm, Took a look at the Airfix 2p I have and whilst I was not able to fit it to the GBL body I could see how it would work: The cast weight is quite large and so the splashers need to be trimmed further to accommodate it. I believe the chassis will fit the GBL footplate with careful measuring and judicious trimming. The mounting crew that holds the money and screws into the original body does not line up with the mounting lug under the GBL boiler. Another mounting hole needs to be tapped under the cab at the rear of the chassis to secure them together. Otherwise, looks quite straightforward. Steve Thanks for your hard work & report Steve. Think the 2P is my most favourable option tbh as they are compatible with the era & location I'm modelling. One thing did confuse me though -" the mounting screw that holds the money", can you elaborate please? Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjp23480 Posted September 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks for your hard work & report Steve. Think the 2P is my most favourable option tbh as they are compatible with the era & location I'm modelling. One thing did confuse me though -" the mounting screw that holds the money", can you elaborate please? Regards Post edited - I meant to say pony - don't you just love predictive text! :-( Steve 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Has anyone seen the D11 'in the flesh' yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Brit70053 Posted September 17, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 17, 2014 Hi All, Just collected 'Butler Henderson' from my Newsagent and though I haven't had the oportunity to unpack it, I have to say it looks very impressive. I'm no expert on either the locos or the GCR Livery, but If the decoration on the 'concealed side' is consistent with the viewing side, then it will be in the running for Best Yet. The wheelsets are the now traditional solid castings, but at least are painted in a dark colour (wouldn't say its exactly black) As a totally unexpected bonus, my newsagent also presented me with a binder for the magazines at no additional cost. I think someone on here was enquiring about the likelihood of these being produced at this 'uncertain' period re the part work's continuation, - well its here and I hope subscribers get theirs' in an acceptable timescale. I'm sure someone will do a definitive review, but in my humble opinion, this is worth £8.99 of anyone's money. I just don't know how SAC Martin is going to bring himself to overspray this interpretation of the GCR livery on those Tenders he is looking forward to working with. Regards, John 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Occasional KItbasher Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Greetings from another relative new member of the forum but, like many others, I too have been following members' postings and comments on this topic with great appreciation and interest; I've also bought several of the models and done some work towards minor changes, renamings and paintwork in the hope of rekindling my interest in railway modelling after some years when other activities have prevent this. I must leave it to othe rmembers ot offer any photographs but would agree with Brit70053 above that this is a well-finished model. I chose the best of three that were on offer in the Rhyl branch of WHS this morning; on the other two, the smokebox saddle was slightly disconnected from the front footplate. Whilst porting the now usual solid wheels, the spokes are picked out very neatly in dark green. As also noted above, a binder was attached to the card-backing, which I thought might mean that the series was ending. However, inside the magazine, there is notice that Issue 17 will feature the Inter-City 125s. It will include a power car in the early blue, grey and yellow livery and, form the image, it seems to include the guard's window of the earlier examples. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61650gtfc Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 I bought butler Henderson today. This is the first of this series I have bought. Not a bad model for your 8.99. the magazine on first glance looks good also. Mine had a wonky buffer beam which will hopefully detach and be repositioned. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Dear all it is with the greatest of sadness that I have just read some devastating news on comet models website. My deepest sympathy to Geoffs family at this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 (edited) I have a D11 to hand, and in the continued indisposition of Weathering Man I'll attempt a critique of the model as a model. I have no knowledge of these strange creatures with Gothick windows in any other sense... First of all - the finish. The green paint looks good, and is convincing. Evenly applied, no smears, fingermarks or hairs. The body colour (the Indian Red) is, however, very plasticky and will need either repainting or weathering. Matt varnish may just take off the toy-like aspect. This is most noticeable on the tender top which has a good deal of toolbox detail which looks completely unconvincing as coloured plastic. The lining is quite good, though one side of my tender has what looks like a couple of splatters of white. The crest and lettering look good. The loco lining is simplified and a bit hamfisted in application, and one of the number plate transfers (?) has gone awry. Moulding - not bad, overall, but there is a distinct mould line on the firebox at the level of the washout plugs which should really be removed, but that will probably involve a repaint. The smokebox door is glued on badly - too high - and will need removing and refitting. One of the buffers fell off, simply not glued, but I found it again... The front buffer beam is suffering from droopiness. The fall plate is cemented into the upright position, so that will need attention. My 28xx was like that as well. I really do think that the assemblers are given zero training. The glazing is acceptable, given the shape of the windows. The handrails are, as we have come to accepted, moulded but are of scale dimensions. Underframe - usual sub-Triang wheels and motion. Really poor. But if you want then you could make a plastikard chassis and wheel it up, Alan Gibson will sell you the wheels and frames, but you'd also need couling rods, hornblocks, bearings etc. Oh, and a motor, unless you're a perv like me. "Get on with it" you say, "Is it worth £8.99?" Well, yes. With some work. You could have a runner for about £65, about the same as a Bachmann one on ebay. Or if you've got a spare Bachmann chassis. less. And yes, the binder came with it, and in the magazine there is still no mention of a 'Peak' though the 'King', 'T9', "N', J39,'Western', 'Princess' and 'Rocket' are all still promised. Someone else can tackle the accuracy of the beast. I've one for swapsies (or will have when the posted one arrives) and this one out of the packaging, still waiting for T9s and Ns and looking for West Countries. >edit< Forgot the pictures.... Edited September 17, 2014 by Smiffy2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Plasticky body colour and paint splats. Wonky number - also, those wheels make my eyes water... Firebox lining and mould lines. Hmm. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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