Great British Locomotives

[Cleefy]

I just downloaded the instructions for the Comet chassis and they say it has a 40mm wheelbase that suits the Hornby model as opposed to the 38mm wheelbase of the Bachmann and - as far as I can tell with my rudimentary measuring - GBL models. Dunno what to do at this point - attempt a fettling? Smaller wheels? Make a half-decent static model from the two flawed ones I bought, use the other for painting practise and knock the idea of motorising it on the head? I'm tending towards the latter as I have other candidates I can be buying a chassis kit for until the situation with Comet resolves itself one way or t'other.

Edited September 6, 2014 by Cleefy

[Horsetan]

I just downloaded the instructions for the Comet chassis and they say it has a 40mm wheelbase that suits the Hornby model as opposed to the 38mm wheelbase of the Bachmann and - as far as I can tell with my rudimentary measuring - GBL models. Dunno what to do at this point - attempt a fettling? ...

I suppose that, with the Compound, you could shorten the wheelbase to the scale 9'6"/38mm, but you need to determine whether it's the leading driving axle that moves back, or the trailing axle that moves forward, by 2mm. I'd hope it was the latter.

 

Replacement 9'6" coupling rods can be bought from AGW anyway.

[Il Grifone]

I'm not sure about the Compound but the earlier 2P (ex L1) has the rear driving axle set too far back. Being Hornby (and known for occasional penny-pinching!) I would suspect it's the same.

[James Harrison]

Rather looking forward to Butler Henderson.  It will be a cheap way to get a fourth(!) D11 and allow me to withdraw my glued BEC whitemetal kit for practicing soldering.  I'm intending to retain the GCR brunswick green, fit etched nameplates (Jutland) and use HMRS LNER transfers to model 5504 as she appeared in 1924.   

[hayfield]

I used the GBL Jinty as a test bed for 16mm W&T wheels fitted to a very ancient Triang chassis. I know the wheelbase is incorrect, but it is close enough for my purpose. I opened out the old motor/gear space to take a Mashima/Comet mechanism I had from a previous modelling  failure, and re-used the GBL brakes, epoxyed to the chassis sides.

For the body, other than repainting/renumbering, all I did was represent the keyhole, and add a couple of wire handrails. The loco represents one transferred to York in June 1958, withdrawn in Dec 1960 after 6 months in store

 

 

An easier chassis conversion may be the older Jinty chassis, this had a pair of side frames with 3 Mazic (metal) castings. Un screws so the castings can be removed and reduced in size to create a bigger gap. You might even be able to bush the axles holes for 1/8th axles, though Markits do the correct size axles, but this restricts the motor to a X03 or Airfix replacement 5 pole motor

[John M Upton]

Well I have just dismantled my first 4MT tank (of three now on shed!) and already other projects are starting to form in my mind.  That separate smoke box door moulding is worth it for a starter but for Project number 1 it is just the rear bunker/cab and tanks I will need to begin with...

[Horsetan]

So much potential. Did you spot that the tops of the tanks are separate items that plug into the rest?

[John M Upton]

Indeed I did, the separate tank tops will also be useful!

 

If you are buying you may want to check:

 

1 - Cab side windows - one of mine is suffering from excess glue

2 - Printing of front smoke box door number plate.  Again one of my was unreadably fuzzy.

Edited September 7, 2014 by John M Upton

[Ruffnut Thorston]

So much potential. Did you spot that the tops of the tanks are separate items that plug into the rest?

 

 I did!

 

One of the two I bought has one side missing!

 

I should have looked even more closely in the shop!

 

Still...I should be able to make a new Tank top......

[Ruffnut Thorston]

I fitted the GBL 4MT to a Bachmann chassis, at this stage just to see how easy it is. It turns out to be the easiest steam loco so far. The whole floor actually unscrews, making it simple to identify where cuts need to be made and actually make them. I imagine the same will apply to the Comet chassis.

 

I found the Mallard to be really easy to motorise!

 

I used the GBL Jinty as a test bed for 16mm W&T wheels fitted to a very ancient Triang chassis. I know the wheelbase is incorrect, but it is close enough for my purpose. I opened out the old motor/gear space to take a Mashima/Comet mechanism I had from a previous modelling  failure, and re-used the GBL brakes, epoxyed to the chassis sides.

For the body, other than repainting/renumbering, all I did was represent the keyhole, and add a couple of wire handrails. The loco represents one transferred to York in June 1958, withdrawn in Dec 1960 after 6 months in store

 

 

An easier chassis conversion may be the older Jinty chassis, this had a pair of side frames with 3 Mazic (metal) castings. Un screws so the castings can be removed and reduced in size to create a bigger gap. You might even be able to bush the axles holes for 1/8th axles, though Markits do the correct size axles, but this restricts the motor to a X03 or Airfix replacement 5 pole motor

 

 

That Tri-ang chassis is not that "very ancient". It is from after 1964, and one of the "SS" or Synchrosmoke Type chassis.

 

The cast chassis blocks came in in 1961, with the Seuthe Type Smoke Units.

 

Previous, and more ancient, chassis did indeed have proper metal side frames, with two cast mazac weights. The rear one profiled to take the X.04 Motor, the front one being larger and protuding into the boiler.

 

Around 1960, the front weight was modified to have a "tower" in which the body securing screw is threaded, using a shorter screw than before.

 

First made in 1953, these chassis were originally held together with countersunk slotted head brass machine screws, that threaded into tapped holes in one side frame, the other side frame being countersunk.

 

Later chassis had the side frames riveted together either side of the weights, so look closely if purchasing for dis-assembly!

 

These chassis were used on:

 

R.52 Class 3F 0-6-0 Tank Loco "Jinty" 1953-1960

 

R.152 Diesel Shunter (Electric) 1956-1960

 

R.153 Saddle Tank (Electric) 1956-1960

 

R.251 "Deeley" 3F 0-6-0 tender Loco 1958-1960

Edited September 8, 2014 by Sarahagain

[rowanj]

Thanks Sarahagain- I always enjoy your posts.

I suppose I used the term "very ancient" in the sense that in 1965 I was taking my "O Levels" and some days I too feel pretty ancient.

I remembered the earlier chassis arrangement when I saw Hayfield's post. I only ever had one, lost many moons ago, and am sure it was riveted. This would make any alteration to the wheelbase more complicated. However the "false sides" would, I suspect, make life easier for filing out a sufficient gap for a gearbox/motor. I was given that idea by a modeller who converted his tender-drive 9F, and, though its slow and tedious work, it's not difficult, and the running improvement is obvious. having said that, I'm sure folks have had success with XO4 ' and 5-pole replacements.

I agree about Mallard being straightforward as the boiler is virtually empty. I cut back the valences to meet my BR period and fitted wire handrails.Other than fiddling below the cab to get it to sit on the chassis at the correct height, it was pretty simple to fit to the latest Hornby chassis.

Edited September 8, 2014 by rowanj

[John M Upton]

[inserts the proverbial lit match of provocation into the proverbial oil barell of debate]

Would a 2-8-2mt Standard Tank have been a possibility? I just fancy trying one at some point!

[69843]

A few pages back after I raised my point with the 4-6-4T, it was shown that the 3MT turns into a better 2-8-2, but I don't see too much reason that the 4MTT couldn't be done like that.

[Horsetan]

[inserts the proverbial lit match of provocation into the proverbial oil barell of debate]Would a 2-8-2mt Standard Tank have been a possibility? I just fancy trying one at some point!

That is actually quite plausible, a bit like what the Germans did when they built the Br.86 2-8-2T.

[John M Upton]

I think I might need to source a couple more!

Ideas, ideas and more ideas...

[darrel]

Just back from holiday picked up 3 from my local shop. The guy in the shop keeps saying to me "why do you need so many of each? Where are you going to put them all?" He is starting to sound like my mum!

Ordered some buffers for them so will wait till they arrive before doing anything else to them.

I can make a start on my K3 / K4 conversion thanks to a friend giving me a chimney and a dome. But first have a lot of tv to catch up on.

[sjp23480]

I have motorised my compound using the Hornby Railroad chassis, would there be any interest in me posting a description and pictures of this project?

 

Steve

[TRAILRAGE]

ALWAYS !

 

Its always good to see how people find different ways to overcome and adapt the GBL products into working models.I did the castle for my Godson using an old spare Airfix tender drive motor and running chassis from a model which had unfortunately got crushed in a box during a house move.

No pics I'm afraid but all I did was after snipping of the screw mounts with a pair of side cutters used a mini drill with a grind stone to smooth off the inside of the loco/tender body to make some clearance.

The screw mount under the cab floor has to be cut off and re-sited slightly this was trial and error to get it in the right place but when it was I used MEK to fix it in place. The front mount was cut out off the airfix boiler and glued in place inside the GBL body again using MEK. after servicing  the motor which hadn't run for at least 15 years it works remarkably well.

 

Whish I had done it for myself !!!!!!

 

SInce then I have refurbished my old Airfix Carephilly castle (both purchased ex box set by my father in 1978)! again works excellent.

 

Got a couple of Schools that I would like to motorise to which brings me to a question

Anyone know if the railroad loco drive schools chassis is the correct wheelbase or if it will even match the GBL body? I don't have access to one so any help will be great help

 

muchas gracias

 

Trailrage

[John M Upton]

The first tentative steps of using parts of the 4MT standard shell have now made their first messy public appearance!!

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1652/entry-14733-first-find-your-bits/

   

[Nile]

The Railroad chassis has a 10ft wheelbase, correct for the Schools, but not for the Midland compound.

[Horsetan]

Indeed I did, the separate tank tops will also be useful!

 

If you are buying you may want to check:

 

1 - Cab side windows - one of mine is suffering from excess glue

 

I'm not sure what glue they are using for the glazing, but it seems incredibly strong.

 

I removed the glazing as it was way too prismatic for my liking, but the glue was so aggressive that one glazing unit snapped before letting go of the body.

 

The plastic coal needs sawing out, and I think the tank vents in the bunker also need reshaping.

 

I think I'll have to bring down the secondhand Bachmann 4MT version from the attic and compare notes as to where else the GBL clone can be improved.

[John M Upton]

On the shell I have butchered for my Q-Tank experiment one window practically fell out, the other needed brute force and ignorance and then wrecked the middle vertical window frame bar (no loss with what I am doing to it). Meanwhile the rear cab window glazing appears to be wrong, it only fills (for want of a betted word) the top two thirds of the aperture.

[cctransuk]

It seems that Asda Bodmin have discontinued this title - in favour of a new one entitled "Build Mallard" - or some-such.

 

Part 1 includes cab components in etched brass for a 7mm. scale A4.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[greendieselman]

It seems that Asda Bodmin have discontinued this title - in favour of a new one entitled "Build Mallard" - or some-such.

 

Part 1 includes cab components in etched brass for a 7mm. scale A4.

 

There's an entire thread on the subject here:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/81382-mallard-partwork/

[Horsetan]

I'm not sure about the Compound but the earlier 2P (ex L1) has the rear driving axle set too far back. Being Hornby (and known for occasional penny-pinching!) I would suspect it's the same.

Strangely enough, I'm looking at the reverse of this: "stretching" a Brassmasters Black Five trailing wheelbase from 8ft to 8ft 4in. I think there is an accidental jig that would help the process too....!