Barnaby Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 G'day mate nice to have you back from a walk-about. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHemmings Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Hi Chris I like the clay wagon that is looking magnificent, good to see you back on the Webb. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2014 Welcome back Chris. Glad to see you are a fully paid up member of the burnt finger brigade now! I too have an 80W iron and have been know to resort to a 125W iron on occasions or even a micro gas torch. Brass is a wonderful heat sink..... There is also a 25W iron for fine / electrical work. Have been know to work with both at times, especially when working with whitemetal,80W to tin the brass and 25W to fix the whitemetal component. Beware knitting with the cables though. So the $64,000 question, what is your plan now that Kernow have dropped the Beattie Well Tank in 7mm? Dare I mention I actually put some moisturiser on my fingers as they were a tad sore from the nasty sharp and scorchio hot brass? Mmm, best not. Glad I went for the 80W, it warms the room up nicely and certainly pumps heat into big umps of brass quickly. Learnt my lesson though putting a pint of beer next to the flux bottle. Flux in beer = not nice! Ah, those lovely Beattie Well tanks. That announcement was certainly a torpedo to the engine room but, it looks like I'll have to build one instead. Pity but it does now mean I can claim that RTR in this scale is cheating ;-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 17, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 17, 2014 So the $64,000 question, what is your plan now that Kernow have dropped the Beattie Well Tank in 7mm? A great move would be to invest in one of these beauties instead http://www.lionhearttrains.com/news.php?page=news Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Shedmaster ( laurie Griffin ) do a kit for one in brass. Roxey do one in cast whitemetal. Will look much better than one of the pannier thingies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2014 A great move would be to invest in one of these beauties instead http://www.lionhearttrains.com/news.php?page=news Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2014 Shedmaster ( laurie Griffin ) do a kit for one in brass. Roxey do one in cast whitemetal. Will look much better than one of the pannier thingies. I'd found the two options already but think it would be worth building a few more wagon kits first. I'm pleased with the the clay wagon but I don't think I'm up to loco building standard yet, especially as the BWT is full of funny little shapes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHemmings Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Hi Chris I think your under estimating your self its only a few extra bits of brass a motor and a few burnt fingers. Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted January 17, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2014 Welcome back Nice job with that clay wagon, don't paint it though, I like the shiny brassy finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 17, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 17, 2014 (edited) Nah, paint it all matt white and while the paint is still wet, cover it in talc. Edited January 17, 2014 by Stubby47 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2014 Welcome back Nice job with that clay wagon, don't paint it though, I like the shiny brassy finish. Funny, that's what the good lady said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2014 Hi Chris I think your under estimating your self its only a few extra bits of brass a motor and a few burnt fingers. Mike Mmm, you'll be having a go at a brass LMS push-pull set next then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2014 Welcome back Nice job with that clay wagon, don't paint it though, I like the shiny brassy finish. Oh and apparently she also says that I've wasted my time with the brass kit as, now it's in primer, it looks just like the plastic kits... I give up already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2014 Better still, model it like this...... img202.jpg BR clay hood, Parkandillick, 1983. Now, for a genuine piece of B&WR, how about this from near Dunmere Junction, again 1983. img204.jpg Note the subtle weathering on the wooden key. I have a genuine LSWR chair (not that one!!) if more details are required. I'm sure somebody said "ooops" when the overturned wagon occurred (or the Cornish equivalent). Nice chair, that would look nice in my train room. Not quite up to track stage yet and I'm trying to decide whether to go for the reduced flangeway option (31.5mm?) as folk think it seems to be much less prone to wheel drop over crossings. I know that Debs makes the gauges but it would mean that the common crossing in my C&L point kit would be no good. Decisions decisions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2014 Nah, paint it all matt white and while the paint is srill wet, cover it in talc. That's toilets Stu.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartynS Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 but it would mean that the common crossing in my C&L point kit would be no good. Decisions decisions. Ohhhh no it doesn't, you will just need to separate the wing rails from the vee and re-solder the wing rails closer to the vee using the flange way jig that Debs sells, simples. ATH, Martyn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted January 18, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2014 Ey Up! Spams is back! Nice work on the wagons! Moisturiser? Wuss! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHemmings Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Mmm, you'll be having a go at a brass LMS push-pull set next then!80 watt soldering iron for Christmas thenMike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Cook Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Hi Chris I think your under estimating your self its only a few extra bits of brass a motor and a few burnt fingers. Mike Why do you get burnt fingers, your meant to be soldering the metal not burning fingers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Long time no post but I'm back, suitably refreshed, and progressing well with stock for Pencarrow. The most challenging (for me) has been the protracted build of a WEP clay wagon. Perhaps not the best place to start with brass kits but the process has certainly been 'character forming'. I soon realised that any hope of building the thing with my stock 25W Antex iron was a non starter - it simply could not put enough heat into the large pieces of brass. I read around a bit and many folk recommended the 40W size as being suitable, so I got an 80W one for Xmas. This has made things significantly easier, although a little more unkind on the fingers! So here's a few few progress shots taken during the build. The homemade soldering station (ok, two blocks of wood): IMAG4828.jpg The abused tools pressed into action: IMAG4829.jpg Soldering stuff and the new iron: IMAG4830.jpg Random building photos (must find the early stages ones). IMAG4835.jpg IMAG4836.jpg IMAG4837.jpg IMAG4838.jpg IMAG4839.jpg IMAG4856.jpg IMAG4860.jpg A few of the wagon in the shiney state prior to painting. IMAG4867.jpg IMAG4866.jpg IMAG4865.jpg IMAG4864.jpg IMAG4863.jpg IMAG4862.jpg IMAG4861.jpg (and yes, the end tipping door does open) The wagon is now all cleaned up and primed in grey and I've moved onto the next kit - a Toad E... Very nice job - young spams. Build a Loco next ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkie_pudd Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 oh so it`s not the tyre dump near Selby on fire that I can smell it`s Chris`s fingers, Happy new skin year then chris. esso that's what a 37 looks like when you cut it down a box on two axles ? welcome back bud and great to see the kit building reaping rewards top work there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted January 18, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2014 Ohhhh no it doesn't, you will just need to separate the wing rails from the vee and re-solder the wing rails closer to the vee using the flange way jig that Debs sells, simples. ATH, Martyn. I agree with Martyn, move the wing rails in, use a straight edge against the "Vee" as well as the flangeway jig to make sure that the knuckle is in the right place. The other one has to be done by eye though. Happy finger singeing. Or you could invest in a RSU. SS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Excellent updates. I built Jim's Toad E a couple of years ago as my second (first successful) essay in etched brass. I'm not sure I'd describe it as "simple" although the lack of much in the way of brake gear certainly helps. The handrails took forever though. My first loco (Connoisseur Y7) was much less fiddly by comparison . Given the choice between brass and whitemetal for a loco kit, I'd personally go for brass, mainly because it feels more like "proper" engineering and also because it's much harder to knacker a part beyond redemption which, for someone as clumsy and careless as me, is a major consideration. The downside is that there are more parts to assemble but, if you treat the build as entertainment in itself rather than purely a means to an end, that's not necessarily a bad thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 19, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2014 Thanks all for the comments. A little more progress on the Toad E today: The solebars, running boards and lots of fiddly bits next. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium wagonbasher Posted January 20, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2014 Very nice job - young spams. Build a Loco next ! Looking good Chris, looks like Santa bought a few goodies. Might we see you at Stafford, Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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