RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 Looking at that end on close up... It looks like I was right about the hole for the buffers Andy It seems to have been replaced by a new, smaller, hole now though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 If folk are wondering why I've not yet fitted the chalk boards under the windows it's because I couldn't find them on the sprue. Found them now though, somewhat misformed in between the brake moulding. Looks like I'll be making my own...x8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 It seems to have been replaced by a new, smaller, hole now though Don't you encourage him ;-p Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 Looking good Chris, I know it's irrelevant but how many hours work has it took to get to this stage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 It seems to have been replaced by a new, smaller, hole now though Ooo, shiny gold holes, too rich for the likes of us. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 It seems to have been replaced by a new, smaller, hole now though Ah, but it's a longer hole so the volume of nothing could be even more (or is that 'less'?). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) Just a point to note on PMV's, they don't always show up on prototype photo's,but there are two wooden slats across the windows on the inside they are around 6 inches up from the bottom and down from the top, to prevent the load breaking the glass. They are about 3 inches wide and about an 1 1/2 ins thick/ Edit :- for timber dimensions. Edited January 3, 2016 by Siberian Snooper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 Looking good Chris, I know it's irrelevant but how many hours work has it took to get to this stage. Three afternoons and a couple of evenings so far...possibly. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 Ooo, shiny gold holes, too rich for the likes of us. Nothing to good for the Southern. Lesser whitemetal castings for those ill-proportioned north eastern railways ;-p 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 One advantage of having the compensation units removable is that you can work on them away from the rest of the vehicle. Here we are adding the brake assemblies. (right hand set have yet to have the central plastic bar cut out) As luck (or good design) would have it the brake mouldings are supported on etched extensions on Jim's compensation units. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 Chris something that puzzles me the Plastic moulding of the end appears to have an area with boltheads around a flat with a hole for the buffer. The buffers also have boltheads so it looks to be a buffer bolted onto a plated bolted to the beam. This doesn't seem right to me (I may well be wrong) I wonder if it was intended for a turned buffer body with no bolt head. I haven't a picture to check. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 Those brake blocks look very close to the wheels - is there room for the suspension units to work without binding ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 Those brake blocks look very close to the wheels - is there room for the suspension units to work without binding ? They are very carefully trimmed from the rear to allow the wheels to move vertically. Don't worry, it's been tested and all is good. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 Ah. So if an afternoon runs from midday to 18:00, and an evening from then until midnight, 30 hours so far? That's probably about right Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 Chris something that puzzles me the Plastic moulding of the end appears to have an area with boltheads around a flat with a hole for the buffer. The buffers also have boltheads so it looks to be a buffer bolted onto a plated bolted to the beam. This doesn't seem right to me (I may well be wrong) I wonder if it was intended for a turned buffer body with no bolt head. I haven't a picture to check. Don Fear not Don, I've had a quick look in Mike King's book and Slaters have got it right. Here's a few extracts below (the second is a Lancing variation with additional vertical timbers on the ends). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 Just about run out of plastic bits now, four rain strips and that's it...so on to the etched brass parts. All the parts have been drilled to take either 30 or 40 thou brass rod as needed, much easier to do while on the fret. The rectangular parts at the bottom are reinforcing panels not found on the van I'm modelling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 Fear not Don, I've had a quick look in Mike King's book and Slaters have got it right. Here's a few extracts below (the second is a Lancing variation with additional vertical timbers on the ends). rps20160103_173116.jpg rps20160103_173146.jpg Just my ignorance then. I assume the inner plate was reinforcement. Don 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Nice build Chris. I do like these long SR vans. I still need to get one or two. I always have a punt on Ebay when one comes up but they always seem to get silly money. I had not seen Jims spring units. Do they give you a weight per axle for their best performance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 Nice build Chris. I do like these long SR vans. I still need to get one or two. I always have a punt on Ebay when one comes up but they always seem to get silly money. I had not seen Jims spring units. Do they give you a weight per axle for their best performance. I love these vans too. It was seeing a 7mm one built up at a show and running on a layout that made me take notice of the gauge. Talking to the owner and then handling the van, which had real weight, presence and detail, started me thinking seriously about a gauge change, particularly when seeing the 4mm version back on Treneglos. Since then I always wanted one but at the right price...or a Christmas present, and the kit hasn't disappointed. They are a very well proportioned van IMO and even Chaz could do with one on his layout... I've not noticed any weights on Jim's destructions but I'm using them passively - axles on the end stops and the springing to push down into dips. There may be more on his website? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dan Randall Posted January 4, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) Hi Chris. Your PMV build has come at a very good time for me, as I have an unfinished one that has sat in its box for an embarrassingly long time. I replaced the Slater's axleguards with my own etches, but then decided they looked too feeble. As an ex P4 Modeller, I had used 12 thou material, whereas something like 18 or 20 thou would have been closer to scale. Before I'd gotten round to getting some thicker etches done, I discovered that ABS did some suitable and very nicely cast axleguards/springs. However, being a retro fit, I was struggling achieve the necessary springing clearance between the castings and S7 wheels. The Connoisseur suspension units you've used (and which I didn't know existed), are just what I need and I'll be calling Jim to place an order this week! Here's where mine is at currently.... Good luck with the rest of your build and thanks for the inspiration to crack on with mine again. Regards Dan Edited January 4, 2016 by Dan Randall 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dan Randall Posted January 4, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2016 Like the suspension. Van looks excellent Best Simon I've just come off the phone to Jim at Connoisseur, having ordered a couple of sets, one of which is destined for my unfinished PMV (see above post). I asked Jim if there was a similar suspension system in his range to suit wagons with their smaller wheels and he said the same units could be used on wagons, by simply putting a little packing between the units and the wagon floor, so I feel another order will be placed soon! Regards Dan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2016 Hi Chris. Your PMV build has come at a very good time for me, as I have an unfinished one that has sat in its box for an embarrassingly long time. I replaced the Slater's axleguards with my own etches, but then decided they looked too feeble. As an ex P4 Modeller, I had used 12 thou material, whereas something like 18 or 20 thou would have been closer to scale. Before I'd gotten round to getting some thicker etches done, I discovered that ABS did some suitable and very nicely cast axleguards/springs. However, being a retro fit, I was struggling achieve the necessary springing clearance between the castings and S7 wheels. The Connoisseur suspension units you've used (and which I didn't know existed), are just what I need and I'll be calling Jim to place an order this week! Here's where mine is at currently.... SNV33445.JPG Good luck with the rest of your build and thanks for the inspiration to crack on with mine again. Regards Dan You're welcome Dan, glad my ramblings are useful to somebody. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 You're welcome Dan, glad my ramblings are useful to somebody. You need to paint yours BR blue too. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2016 You need to paint yours BR blue too. Mine will be in the universal PLV livery of muck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2016 First off a big thank you to Dan for the very kind offer of some spare chalk board mouldings to replace the duff ones on my sprue. Very generous. Now on with the build... First off the etch was cleaned up using a Garryflex block. I don't recall who recommended these to me but they are fantastic at cleaning up large areas of mucky etch. The V irons were first fixed, two at each end and two near the centre. My favourite superglue was used for this job. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts