Jaz Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I read the how, but was concerned if I cut the back open I might not line up properly at the front. So I carefully marked op, then cut smaller, the pen would over compensate to make it large so I over compensated to reduce it again, and then used the scriber along the four main line, until they were visible on the back, then I tidied it up with a scalpel blade and using a metal rule carefully sliced the corners. It is risky and takes longer but I could line up against the stones more easy. rmweb1096willskit52 the result, not perfect, but i get to sand it as well rmweb1097willskit53 using a sanding pen (that's not what you call it) which is small enough and rigid and flat enough I carefully checked the line from the edge of the building and squared up, the top and bottom as a touch too big (note to self....be more careful next time). I then stuck the window in place on one side on the other too large size I penned carefully as an indication of the size I needed and gradually sanded it out until I could squeeze the window in....(ap resent it is sat in under it's own power no glue...although the glaze has been loosened slightly!!1) This doesn't look to bad..... rmweb1098willskit54 but.....add light to the back...and you see the real effect. Still filler can go into the joins. And I am not unhappy with the result at the moment. rmweb1099willskit55 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 The above window is a little wonky, and the gaps fairly large, when you back light it. Having managed not to completely mangle this way...decided to have another go rmweb1100willskit56 the lower window is a slither thinner (on the real thing and on the model) rmweb1101willskit57 I was a bit fought with the window and had to re-glue it....no harm taken rmweb1102willskit58 and the light test...shows I'm improving...or was lucky.... either way a better fit rmweb1105willskit61 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted March 15, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2014 You're making a cracking job of it Jaz, honestly. The gaps are absolutely minimal - you should see some that I managed to end up with A strong back light is very unforgiving. Once you've fixed the windows and painted it, you'll not see the gaps at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I also started looking at the 45 degree corners after I filed rmweb1103willskit59 before I filed rmweb1104willskit50 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Al Sasquatch pointed out even if I scratched the wills sheet or needed to take out a line already done I could resort to filler..... another good idea.....which is why I am still using the pavement sheets. I thought cut holes, check corners...make sure it works.....then score all those lines!!! And then paint and hide the mistakes.... .......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sasquatch Posted March 15, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 15, 2014 You could add micro strip to the front of the windows to represent the stone window surround, this will hide your gaps and allow adjustment! A bit like the way the instructions show how to add lintels and sills! Looking fab BTW!!! Your stonework is very well done! Regards Squatch Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aberdare Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Hi Jaz As Shaun says another strip will hide the gap, this is something I did on my engine shed windows last year. I won't mention all the other bodges I do to cover my mistakes. To avoid it happening try cutting the windows a touch smaller and filing out to the correct size, those Wills sheets can take a good bit of filing. All looking good though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Nice workwomanship Jaz, :locomotive: Andy :scared: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 matched pair walls rmweb1106willskit62 matched pair with windows just pushed in rmweb1107wilskit63 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I can't believe how long a little bit of scribing takes, the long longs, woos and your done, the shorts ones, you need to be careful you need to try and hide the original rectangles and make it look ok.. I should go off and paint this one I should wait, so the colours match better..... rmweb1108willskit64 But you know I really need to check this is all working, wouldn't want to do it all and it not work..... so yeah better go paint it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Nice workwomanship Jaz, :locomotive: Andy :scared: Sorry to hear your being messed about, but hey look on the bright side if it falls through you have it all tidy for the next viewer......um loops....soz.....I would get my coat...but it's my layout..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Hi Jaz As Shaun says another strip will hide the gap, this is something I did on my engine shed windows last year. I won't mention all the other bodges I do to cover my mistakes. To avoid it happening try cutting the windows a touch smaller and filing out to the correct size, those Wills sheets can take a good bit of filing. All looking good though. Shaun and Aberdare I did use a right angle before to represent the sill and tidy the brick work.....so I agree with you....glad to know others have to resort to this....someone should right a .....how to Bodgit, Dodgeit then Fixit book Edited March 16, 2014 by Jaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 A paint job, to help hide the 3 stones finishing at the same point..... and now to match the second front sheet rmweb1108willskit65 still drying....hence some pooling 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) GBRf 66706 Nene Vally Weathering Here are my first ever attempt at weathering. I used some DCC concepts and some Humbrol weathering powders? What do you think , too much? Not authentic? let me know. Here it is on the side not done: Edited March 16, 2014 by Kal 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 and now the other side with weathering 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 some closer pics Be honest, I want to improve this, it is powders so easy to change, I hope. I am not so sure myself 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 on the layout rmweb1116gbrf66706H rmweb1117gbrf66706I rmweb1118gbrf66706J 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcredfer Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Hi Kal, Nice loco ... You have worked hard at the weathering there too... When I looked again at the weathering something rang a bell ... Marcus - Page 151, this thread Not overly dirty as we tend to keep our loco's reasonably clean as far as practically possible. I had a look at some pictures in Google and the locos were largely clean, with a few bearing some recent dirt around their front bits .... a bit like Mutton Chop Moustaches ..... That has placed Felix with the Columba Palumbus .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 rmweb1119gbrf66706K rmweb1120brgf66706L rmweb1121gbrf66706M rmweb1122gbrf66706N 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 and some more rmweb1123gbrf66706O rmweb1124gbrf66706P rmweb1125gbrf66706Q rmweb1126gbrf66706R Kal was not happy, and had another go, I'll do more picture tomorrow...the light has gone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted March 16, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 16, 2014 Hi Jaz, GBRf locos are usually kept fairly clean, but I think I posted a link to one that had missed it's turn through the washing plant. These are pics of 66706 posted up to flickr this year. Cheers, Mick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Yep I have decided to clean it more, I was trying to match one I bought already weathered, rather than follow pictures. The main thing to note is the greyness of the under carriage, while most Dort seems to arc under the side windows. Thing I can not quite find is what the roof looks like, I know the exhaust is not the strange brown Bachmann do, but what it is...?..? Add the name plates now, just realised 706 is missing its front numbers, doh! I will sort that. Need to think about the end detail too. I really like multi heading, so that means coupling both ends. I don't link link couplings, so I will do what should have done years ago on UK locos and fit buckeyes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
model-trains Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Yep. Thing I can not quite find is what the roof looks like.?..? You should have no problem Batman, I mean Kal ;-) Mick's images are excellent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted March 16, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 16, 2014 You should have no problem Batman, I mean Kal ;-) Mick's images are excellent. Not my pics - just my search criteria on flickr Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted March 16, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Yep I have decided to clean it more, I was trying to match one I bought already weathered, rather than follow pictures. The main thing to note is the greyness of the under carriage, while most Dort seems to arc under the side windows. Thing I can not quite find is what the roof looks like, I know the exhaust is not the strange brown Bachmann do, but what it is...?..? Add the name plates now, just realised 706 is missing its front numbers, doh! I will sort that. Need to think about the end detail too. I really like multi heading, so that means coupling both ends. I don't link link couplings, so I will do what should have done years ago on UK locos and fit buckeyes. Hi Kal, Factory weathering is pretty much always generic and sprayed on. I use a variety of airbrush, dry brush, wet brush and now slowly starting to use powders. I'm still a novice when it comes to weathering. One thing I have learnt is that there is no one simple method that suits everyone. Pictures of the real thing are paramount and as you say, roof pics are difficult to find - the common shot is the 3/4 view. Regular 3/4 pics are easy to source via flickr, smugmug etc, so that's why you'll find me leaning off bridges with my camera. Whenever, I'm searching for pics of a particular subject, I'll try and track down at least a 3/4 view from all four corners and any other profile shots that I can - roof detail is a bonus. (Especially when it comes to yellow stuff!) I think this is my best (favourite) weathering job to date. Cheers, Mick Edited March 16, 2014 by newbryford 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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