Kal Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Kal, thanks - this is very helpful. As a returnee to the hobby and having 2 Two guagemaster Q series 4 track controllers that I was given, I will be sticking firmly in the realm of DC, but sometime in the future I'd like to change. Besides which, I've got too many locos that require converting (a lot of them don't work at the moment too - is there a market for non-functioning locos ?) Lee Hi well it is not supposed to replace the DCC section or the books and resources on the internet, there are many of them and many are very good. I just felt that almost all, suppose you already know something about it and it can be daunting for some. Even here I think I simplify things BUT I tend to assume knowledge, I have no right to assume, but at least there is method for asking the questions you can't from a book. The Only stupid question is the one that isn't asked. There seems to be a market for no functioning locos on EBAY, just cover it in brown paint and or melt it and call it vandalised stock, professionally ff'd up, or put it all together with some junk you found in the bottom of a draw and call it job lot for spare or repair and it will fetch hundreds. Edited January 2, 2014 by Kal 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I like the train metaphor, so if the electricity company supplies the original power and they set the 'strenght' how do they push it to us as it is not 'downhill' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Jaz Funny enough I just posted something similar elsewhere, does this explain it? /Quote This is an area people always seem to misunderstand. Current is not pushed, it is sucked into a circuit by the components. If the Voltage remains constant, the lower the Resistance the higher the Current. With Zero Resistance, i.e a short, you have infinite current. Not good. that is the purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker to be the weakest point in a circuit. The Current or Amperage rating is the maximum safe current that can travel though that device without it starting to mis-function / melt / catch fire. If you rely on the fused value of a transformer then that is the current at which it will trip, if this is not the weakest point in the circuit, things will get very hot , very quick and you can start a fire. There is no reason you could not use a 100 amp transformer if you so wished, but to do so needs extra measures to ensure that the maximum current fed through any component or device does not exceed it's maximum safe working parameters. That is why people are concerned at what the rating of the E-link is. To draw 5 amps though a device only rated at 4 amps will end in tears. Sorry to butt in, but sometimes, my conscience about peoples safety overcomes my desire to stay out of contentious subjects /Unquote Edited January 2, 2014 by Kal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Clay It was a standard blue one, and I painted the bits I wanted white with a paint brush and Humbrol.It was from Oxford Diecast model cars, I believe they now do one with a white roof, they may even have done it at the time but I could only source the blue one. Edited January 2, 2014 by Jaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgraham Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Thanks Jaz, I have a Corgi white one I painted blue, but it looks terrible so I bashed it up and keep it obscured by the dark forest. I see that Oxford Diecast does indeed have a light blue one with white roof so I will order it. Cheers, Edited January 2, 2014 by cgraham 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Clay Have you got the school children yet? coughs....these are models for the Hogwarts school children...... same question to Sasquatch. I am very interested to see the results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gruffalo Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) An analogy that helped me explain how things get "pushed" along electrical circuits was: Imagine you have a water reservoir on the top of a hill. That water will flow downhill if you open the outlet valve (tap) and will go all the way until it reaches the sea. The higher the hill, the greater the potential water flow rate and the smaller the valve, the lower the flow rate. To relate that to electricity, the height of the hill in relation to sea level is the VOLTAGE (volts). The valve that lets water out of the reservoir is the RESISTANCE (ohms). The water flow is the CURRENT (amps). The amount of water reaching the sea will be dependent upon the number of valves and the size of the pipes between the reservoir and the sea. For that reason, we always add resistance together. If we find we can't get enough water to flow down the hill (or the flow is too slow), we add a new and larger pipe. In this case, some water continues to go down the old route but more goes down the new route - this is why we have to look at parallel circuits a little differently. If the stream between the reservoir and the sea is an open ditch, we don't want it to overflow and flood the surrounding area so we install a measuring system that will close the water valve upstream before floods start. In electrical parlance, that is a FUSE or CIRCUIT BREAKER. For everyone's safety, those protection devices should always be installed. Hope that helps. Edited January 2, 2014 by Gruffalo 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgraham Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Jaz, Yes, I ordered and received them, but haven't worked on them yet. I have a show scheduled for Jan 31-Feb 2 (that's both Superbowl Sunday and Groundhog Day for us Yanks) and I hope to have the figures and other improvements done by then. Cheers, 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) An analogy that helped me explain how things get "pushed" along electrical circuits was: Imagine you have a water reservoir on the top of a hill. That water will flow downhill if you open the outlet valve (tap) and will go all the way until it reaches the sea. The higher the hill, the greater the potential water flow rate and the smaller the valve, the lower the flow rate. To relate that to electricity, the height of the hill in relation to sea level is the VOLTAGE (volts). The valve that lets water out of the reservoir is the RESISTANCE (ohms). The water flow is the CURRENT (amps). The amount of water reaching the sea will be dependent upon the number of valves and the size of the pipes between the reservoir and the sea. For that reason, we always add resistance together. If we find we can't get enough water to flow down the hill (or the flow is too slow), we add a new and larger pipe. In this case, some water continues to go down the old route but more goes down the new route - this is why we have to look at parallel circuits a little differently. If the stream between the reservoir and the sea is an open ditch, we don't want it to overflow and flood the surrounding area so we install a measuring system that will close the water valve upstream before floods start. In electrical parlance, that is a FUSE or CIRCUIT BREAKER. For everyone's safety, those protection devices should always be installed. Hope that helps. Hi a very good analogy Thanks, it all helps people to get it into their minds, that this is not as dark a secret as they may think. Edited January 2, 2014 by Kal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Gruffalo Happy New Year.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 It just occurred to me that this might be read wrong when included in post 1610, so I moved it here to prevent any confusion: However people... as with all things, a basic understanding can be dangerous, if you start to assume certain things. That is why being able to drive a car, doesn't necessarily mean you could drive a truck, or a train for that matter. So be careful out there, and make sure either you are confident you know what you are doing, or that you are following instructions from someone who knows. The danger of the Internet and Wikipedia is that their are a lot of Armchair experts you will come across, that know half of what they are saying and make the rest up. Of course you do not know that I am not also an Armchair expert , so even with what I am telling you, as basic as it is, it does't hurt to question it or get a second opinion. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Clay I am just putting together the Brougham, yours looks like the Langley G20. which is the one I am tinkering with. I had to drill through the two rear wheels to get them on their axle, the smaller front wheels went on the axles no bother. But what ever way I look at it the back window is not wide enough for the sides to fit to. Question 1. Dd you have to cut 45 degree angles on the 3 pieces to make them fit together? N.B. I am matching the two seat cushions to the two back cushions, i.e. the little window is up. I know the side window is to the front which the axle floating out in mid air where the wheels fit behind the main cab.And I can see there is a groove for the foot step to fit into. Am I missing something? 2. Did you glue? or solder? edit=.....rats Kal checked yours out it is an etched kit. Has anyone built a Langley Brougham????? Edited January 2, 2014 by Jaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgraham Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) I'm sure I glued, but it was a couple of years ago and I don't recall the specifics of the tweaking I had to do aside from remembering that I did have to do some filing and reaming. I had planned on using different lamps, but didn't quite get around to it. I also bought this kit, but never got up the nerve to put it together. http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32639&hilit=hogwarts+harry+potter+themed Edited January 2, 2014 by cgraham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Oh lol you responded whilst I was researching.....mssed your response. Nice etched kit...unfortunately....Mine is Langle Models Brougham. rmweb380brougham1 It comes in a one or two horse choice, I want neither However have looked checked double checked shown Kal got file and tried to adjust. MUST NOT break by over bending!!!! Edited January 2, 2014 by Jaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgraham Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Indeed that is the same Langley Modles kit I bought (X2) and assembled for my Hogsmeade Station module 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gruffalo Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Hi a very good analogy Thanks, it all helps people to get it into their minds, that this is not as dark a secret as they may think. Oh, I wouldn't say that - it gets pretty dark when the fuses / circuit breakers go! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Clay Brilliant in which case, can you look at post 1613, did you have to cut much? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgraham Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Jaz, It is difficult for me to remember (June 2011), though I recall scraping flash and edges with an X-Acto knife, and I know I filed to get pieces to align the way I wanted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brass0four Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Hi Kal, I'm pasting your pieces all together into Word and pondering. I'm not entirely dumb but I erected barriers when I was at School: Art, English language and literature = Good, everything else bad. An absolute dreamer! Essentially, my DCC does what I want it to do but it might as well be magic. Still strapped for time L8r Tony. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Clay That is good enough, we don't think they can fit without some shaping, and now knowing you had to do the same I am willing to risk chopping them Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted January 2, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2014 Jaz, I have built a Bougham but it was so long ago that I remember very little about the build, except, that I broke the back axle where one wheel goes on so they wheel holes probably need opening up. I glued mine. The only way to get the broken wheel on will be to solder but I will porbably have the driver standing there scratching his head while a couple of ladies stand around looking annoyed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brass0four Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Jaz Funny enough I just posted something similar elsewhere, does this explain it? /Quote This is an area people always seem to misunderstand. Current is not pushed, it is sucked into a circuit by the components. If the Voltage remains constant, the lower the Resistance the higher the Current. With Zero Resistance, i.e a short, you have infinite current. Not good. that is the purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker to be the weakest point in a circuit. The Current or Amperage rating is the maximum safe current that can travel though that device without it starting to mis-function / melt / catch fire. If you rely on the fused value of a transformer then that is the current at which it will trip, if this is not the weakest point in the circuit, things will get very hot , very quick and you can start a fire. There is no reason you could not use a 100 amp transformer if you so wished, but to do so needs extra measures to ensure that the maximum current fed through any component or device does not exceed it's maximum safe working parameters. That is why people are concerned at what the rating of the E-link is. To draw 5 amps though a device only rated at 4 amps will end in tears. Sorry to butt in, but sometimes, my conscience about peoples safety overcomes my desire to stay out of contentious subjects /Unquote Kal, I'm not familiar with the term *E-link* ? Is it the rating in amps? Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted January 3, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2014 Tony, the E-Link is the Hornby DCC controller. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Kal,I'm not familiar with the term *E-link* ? Is it the rating in amps?Tony. Tony Hornby make a new DCC control station called the e-link. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 ChrisN I know exactly where you are coming from, one set of wheels, nice hole fit on axle perfect, other set no holes...so I had to very carefully cut a hole ...all the while scared I would take out the wrong bit of metal especially as there was a small fault on the side that I had to be even more careful not to touch, and the wheels did feel as though the spokes shifted whilst I did it, I have another one to make yet, and a broken wheel seems a clever idea, it was the first no hole wheel I looked at and almost mistakenly cut back the ankle to glue!!!! Luckily I decided to look at the second pair and realised they could go through. I got a bit distracted yesterday, in addition to watching tv in the warm lounge....I go to painting the horses....which I don't need. I am just finishing them now They will be 'dressing' on the layout. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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