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Arboretum Valley - Invasion of the Daleks


Kal
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That office building up on the hill reminds me of the Royal Engineers blocks at Chetwynd Barracks when I was there.  I am trying to resist the temptation of another scratchbuild, I know there used to be a railway into the place ;)

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I use Kadees  #18 #19 & #20. I have also fitted some #5s and #146. For wagons that don't have the NEM at the right height I have made a barrier wagon with a tension lock one end and a Kadee on the other. So far everything seems to be working ok. I just need to figure out how to do the coaches now (Hornby MK2 & 3 with that stupid Airfix/Dapol tension lock !!!!) and the HST. C'mon Hornby get it together!

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Hi Brit

No 17's?

 

The 14x series seem interesting, long medium and short, with center, high and low heads

 

Shame no one does a chart or better still a wiki where we could add all our successes to.

 

You would think there would be a section on Rm to discuss all types of OO couplings .

Edited by Kal
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And some of the promised yellows....

med_gallery_17883_2760_194826.jpgrmweb403yellow1

 

med_gallery_17883_2760_305960.jpgrmweb404yellow2

 

med_gallery_17883_2760_273876.jpgrmweb405yellow3

 

med_gallery_17883_2760_431167.jpgrmweb406yellow4

 

med_gallery_17883_2760_233896.jpgrmweb407network7

 

A new arrival Volvo A40D

med_gallery_17883_2760_327524.jpgrmweb408yellow6

 

Which tips

med_gallery_17883_2760_143158.jpgrmweb409yellow7

 

Opens for inspection

med_gallery_17883_2760_40148.jpgrmweb410yellow8

 

Lots of lovely detail

med_gallery_17883_2760_267738.jpgrmweb11yellow9

 

although rather clean

med_gallery_17883_2760_454569.jpgrmweb412yellow10

 

the real thing

Pict2949.jpg

 

One a little dirtier

dsc02515.jpg

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med_gallery_17883_2760_39225.jpgrmweb420yellow11

 

med_gallery_17883_2760_184620.jpgrmweb421yellow12

Still a work in progress

But I blacked the yellow on th model above the front wheels, and started some weathering...it looks very yellow under fluorescent light....perhaps tomorrow under natural light it might not be so bad!!

Edited by Jaz
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Sorry, don't like it. It does not look natural to me, dirt does not streak in chunks like that, and gravity makes it wash down, not up or sideways.

 

Tyres look like they have been parked on yellow lines before they were dry.

 

Still, I know it is a work in progress and were still learning

Edited by Kal
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Okay something a little more light hearted...........

 

fox cubs out playing...."Your it!!!"

med_gallery_17883_3001_68966.jpgrmweb413foxes1

 

"Lunch!!!"

med_gallery_17883_3001_614693.jpgrmweb414foxes2

 

"Humans!!!!..."

"No problem...we can out run 'em..... :sungum: "

med_gallery_17883_3001_491047.jpgrmweb414foxes3

 

"Dogs!!!!!!...."

"Run!!!!!

med_gallery_17883_3001_139270.jpgrmweb414foxes4

 

what's the saying? I don't need to out run them....just you!!!!!!

med_gallery_17883_3001_239545.jpgrmweb415foxes5

 

"help!!!!!!!!"

med_gallery_17883_3001_90155.jpgrmweb516foxes6

 

med_gallery_17883_3001_527876.jpgrmweb417foxes7

 

med_gallery_17883_3001_562460.jpgrmweb418foxes8

 

"Mummy!!!!!!!!!"

med_gallery_17883_3001_904000.jpgrmweb419foxes9

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Jaz,

I am not sure if I used Epoxy or superglue.  I started building whitemetal kits with epoxy but it smells terrible and you need to mix it on something.  The advantage is that it it gives you time to adjust but will take an age to set.  This means you have to be careful what bits you choose to do at the same time or it will not hold its shape.

 

I then moved onto superglue and if you get the right sort and put enough on it will give a little while before it sticks your hand to the table firmly so you can move things around.  I use Loctite Mini Trio which is three small tubes in a pack.  The worst thing about superglue is that unless you are using a lot in a short space of time it sticks its lid to itself.  The smaller one means that you waste less glue.

 

Holding things together.  I asked for Christmas for a set, (or two?) of the York Modelling's Mini Magnetic squares.  They seem quite powerful and not very big.  I am not sure how they will do with thick whitemetal but they are fairly strong.  The link to their Useful Bits page shows all the magnets as there are at least two sizes.

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Julian....

tch tch......turning off your computer just does not cut it....'cos I know you will check in periodically to see what response you get  :pilot: 

 ..Not only are those two girls not into S&M despite the leather harnesses........trust you to make the connection..... :devil:.......but you might notice they do not have rubber balls in their mouths.

 

Also advertising your leanings might not go down well with the wife..... :nono:  :hunter: :triniti:

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ChrisN

That seems a good idea, small =less waste. Are you saying when you squeeze enough you let out the pressure so it does not jam up against the lid...which might then be a devil to remove the next time.

I would prefer superglue....it is easier to use....we have a ZAP product...plasti-zap, I'll look if there's a metal zap product at the local model shop. Otherwise check out the 3 tube idea. Is it like a B&Q product?

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ChrisN

That seems a good idea, small =less waste. Are you saying when you squeeze enough you let out the pressure so it does not jam up against the lid...which might then be a devil to remove the next time.

I would prefer superglue....it is easier to use....we have a ZAP product...plasti-zap, I'll look if there's a metal zap product at the local model shop. Otherwise check out the 3 tube idea. Is it like a B&Q product? 

 

Jaz,

Do I let out the pressure?   I know what you mean but I am not sure that I do.  I get the lid back on as quickly as possible so that it does not go hard, but it will eventually.  If you are using it frequently you are fine, when you leave it for a while it may go off but not if you are lucky.  Last time I nearly used a whole tube!

 

I bought mine in Homebase, although I am sure B&Q would do it.  The last pack I found in Rymans and I am sure, (although probably completely mistaken), that it was cheaper there.  'Loctite' is a company name and they do the mini packs.

 

If you are in Warhammer buying brushes, (Did I buy the stipple brush?  No, I didn't did I, but I did buy their brushes for dry brushing.), or paints, don't buy their superglue as it is expensive and it a big pot.

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Hi Both, Fixed the Broadband ....... was genuinely off for nearly all yesterday ..... rebooted the Router a few times ....... Router kept coming up with ISP not responding, so rang them. ... very helpful, but they said no break in connection for weeks?? ...At which point the connection came back on, after yet another reboot ................................... :superstition: ..................    :no2:

Have arranged for another ISP and some research, then out to find a new Router very soon .......

 

 

Re Superglue:- used lots of the stuff for model a/c [mainly several Zap ones] and found 2 things .... once open it can go off if you don't continue to use it for a while after being opened ...

 

more relevant, the blocking of the nozzle can be very much reduced if you hold a tissue/rag round the top of the upright bottle, while you squeeze the bottle and release a couple of times. There is often a small residue of glue right at the tip, which will get blown out when you squeeze and the tissue/rag will soak it up.

[Has to be done every time, or the cap gets contaminated and defeats the process anyway.]

 

It is also helpful to tap the upright bottle on the desk to get the amount at the tip to a minimum before squeezing, too.

[should mention that the fingers are at some small risk with this operation, but can be easily recovered with a small application of fine sandpaper, which the exposed glue is very vulnerable to.]

 

NB. There is also one with a small brush applicator, which makes placing the glue very controllable for the majority of uses, but more relevant to the above, it has a larger nozzle, which doesn't trap the glue up there and any residue is pushed back in by the brush stem - so less blocked nozzles. ....... :sungum:

 

 

Edit; lid = cap

Edited by jcredfer
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Hi

 

HEALTH WARNING!!!!

 

At the risk of teaching granny to suck eggs, I came across a fact I did not know about Super Glue's i.e CA's

 

It can have a severe exothermic reaction with cotton, i.e burst into flames, so never wear cotton clothes or use cotton swabs or cotton buds when using super glues.

Edited by Kal
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I have another question (although any other thoughts on glue will still be of interest)

Lots of my small figures are way too shiny.

I know I need to get some satin finish to dull them down, hopefully making them look much more realistic,

and Kal says one of  our 'how to' videos says using plain varnish (satin or matt?) is as good as anything.

Anyway I am just about to skip trough the videos to find the one in question.

I just wondered what other people use?

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J

Both those links take me to the top of this page.I'll go look on post 1137.But can I use the wax just as a finish, or do I have to mix it with the pigments like you mentioned before?

I have yet to get some and try it, although had planned to look out for it whilst buying other stuff.

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Hi Both,

Jaz - the wax medium mixes with the paint. It doesn't need very much and results can be varied dependent on amounts.

 

Product - http://www.jacquardproducts.com/dorlands-wax.html   

Shop - http://www.rainbowsilks.co.uk/ProductDetails.cfm?Code=JACVDW0001   

 

May have to look for "Dorlands Wax" in their search - as preview doesn't put full length link in  ...   

 

 

Edited by jcredfer
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