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Kev,

It is always very gratifying to see what can be done to our products. I think your Peckett looks very effective, especially with the oft ignored GWR roundel. To my eye, your polishing has successfully imparted the effect of the cleaners' efforts. On the superstructure I would probably confine further work to only a very gentle air-brushing of some light sooty deposits atop the tank and cab roof and detailed wear and tear effects elsewhere.

 

I have started work on a lined green version of the Peckett for Cwm Bach colliery and will publish some photos as I make progress. The polishing is coming along nicely and I think the extent to which one works the surface is the key factor rather than the age of the T-Cut.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

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Many thanks Chris. It's thanks to yourself and the other Chris that we are lucky enough to have such a superb starting point to work with.

 

I went with the roundel because it's the latest GWR livery I've been able find a photo of. Also, although I model the GWR post-war I did consider using modelers license and finishing her in the post-war livery. But the GWR initials would only fit if I squashed them up, which I didn't think would look right. The roundel does suit her. I agree with you on the weathering, she'll only be getting slightly dirty. I want her to appear looked after, perhaps she's the favourite of the cleaner at Inglebourne shed?

 

I'm sure many of the followers of your Cwm Bach thread, as well as myself, will look forward to seeing your finished Peckett.

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A poor worker may blame his tools but my t-cut was about 60% sediment and the rest a thin foul smelling liquid. The bottle was so old that it cracked when I shook it vigorously. Despite violent agitation, the contents could not be mixed convincingly, and after a desultory attempt to do something useful, I consigned the lot to the bin, and bought the 2000 and 2500 grit wet&dry.

 

I'm not convinced I did a good job with that, but the t-cut was definitely way past the use-by date :(

 

It did a lousy job on the car too. I should not be so parsimonious!

 

Best

Simon

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As I've gone as far as I can for now with the Peckett, I've decided to start something else. Really I should be doing some more with the foamboard, but I picked up a Skytrex 5 ton crane kit at the Bristol Show, and I quite fancy giving it a go. Plus I will eventually have to build a base for it anyway.

 

Here's what you get in the bag.

 

post-12902-0-59217000-1455058132_thumb.jpg

 

Lots of chunky whitemetal castings. I've already cleaned them all up. I plan to solder as much of it as possible with 100 degree solder, so I've been as thorough as I possibly can with the cleaning. Anywhere that may receive solder has been polished up using a little brass brush in the Dremel.

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A poor worker may blame his tools but my t-cut was about 60% sediment and the rest a thin foul smelling liquid. The bottle was so old that it cracked when I shook it vigorously. Despite violent agitation, the contents could not be mixed convincingly, and after a desultory attempt to do something useful, I consigned the lot to the bin, and bought the 2000 and 2500 grit wet&dry.

 

I'm not convinced I did a good job with that, but the t-cut was definitely way past the use-by date :(

 

It did a lousy job on the car too. I should not be so parsimonious!

 

Best

Simon

In the past I have used toothpaste of the paste rather than gel variety to polish up surfaces on polystyrene aircraft models. It was effective and imparted a rather agreeable odour.

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Thanks Chris,

 

I fell asleep wondering about that last night. As I was in a hotel in Germany, the time was not opportune for an experiment. Seems like a good idea.

 

Although it might prove expensive to do the car... And I guess it would go frothy in the rain :)

 

Best

Simon

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In the past I have used toothpaste of the paste rather than gel variety to polish up surfaces on polystyrene aircraft models. It was effective and imparted a rather agreeable odour.

 

There are many abrasives that you can use, in varying levels of potency. T-Cut is perhaps the best known and probably the gentlest, but the solvent in it will dissolve some model paints so test it on a hidden area first (the way T-Cut works is as much by solvent action as abrasion). You can use T-Cut as the lubricant with 2000 or 1200 grade wet-or-dry paper, and this will cut harder than using water. If you do use water with the wet-or-dry, remember to add a drop of washing up liquid to kill the surface tension and ensure even wetting. In between T-Cut and the abrasive paper I would place Solvol Autosol (metal polish in a tube), but it will leave very fine scratches on a soft surface, so go carefully. Toothpaste, as noted, does work but different brands will give results ranging from great to dismal, so again tests are required.

 

John

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I always ran in my Scalextric cars' gears with toothpaste. I've not yet tried it on paint.

 

I did wonder about Solvol Autosol, (shades of proud teenage motorbike polishing!) but thought it might be a shade abrasive for model purposes.

 

I think cheap toothpaste might be the order of the day. To experiment and report...

 

Best

Simon

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Ta da!

 

post-12902-0-81428600-1455231382_thumb.jpg

 

The crane went together ridiculously easy in a little over an hour last night. Just a little bit of cleaning up tonight. My next job is to make a base for it, and I'm considering motorising it with a small motor or servo under the baseboard.

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That looks great, Kev.

 

I have found the Skytrex white metal castings to be very good indeed. And their mail order service is terrific.

 

John

 

Thanks John,

 

I spent an evening cleaning up all the castings. They are of a very good quality, but a few of the more complicated castings did have some larger bits of what on a plastic kit would be called sprue to remove. Not sure what they are called on metal castings, but they are part of the casting process.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very nice castings and I particularly like that fireman's shovel. Not a cheap hobby though Kev.

 

It's not a cheap hobby, no matter which scale you model in, Rob. But as Steve rightly says they are great castings.

 

It also doesn't help that I'm waiting in suspense for the next Minerva loco to be announced on March 5th. If it's a 14XX my bank account has had it!

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Normally I'm reluctant to comment directly on blatant advertising, but they do look good.

Definitely on the list for Kettering.

 

We could almost do with a forum for traders to show their latest products,

A bit like Trade News in the O gauge mag. But easier to search.

(Well it would be if the sub forums were clearly defined.) 

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Normally, I am reluctant to advertise directly Ixion or Minerva products, but I am making an exception on this occasion. The accessory packs supplied with the Ixion Hudswell Clarke 0--6-0ST and Fowler 0-4-0DM locomotives are available separately. The parts are unpainted injected moulded plastic. The steam pack contains a range of fire irons, shovels, oil cans and bucket with swivelling handle. The diesel pack contains an oil can, spanners, wrenches, hammers, and oil and electric lamps. The electric lamps are cosmetic. The oil lamps comprise 3 GWR lamps (left in the photo) and three MR/LMS lamps. The lamps are hollow to allow a fibre optic filament to run into the lamp behind the lens. The handles can be left to swivel if desired.

 

The packs are available from Ixion retailers or direct from me for £7.00 each including VAT and P&P.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

Arse!!!!! :banghead:

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Morning Kev,

 

I was planning to give Laurie a call, hoping he did the lubricator cocks & the drain cocks - I'd not spotted the steam lance cock. I know Warren Shepherd does the latter, but I'm not sure about the lubricators

 

did you get your drain cocks from Laurie?

 

thx

Simon

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