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Here's my idea for my modules.....

 

post-225-0-01840300-1374098832_thumb.jpg

 

Well it's not all my idea but is taken from Lance Mindheim's blog earlier this year.......

http://www.lancemindheim.com/blog.htm Scroll down to the entry below 7 April 2013

 

I think the plan lend's itself very well to modules, in this case using four 4' x 18" modules giving a total length of 16' x 18" . 

 

The idea being taken from The Dow Chemical Job on the OpSig website

http://www.opsig.org/doff/aotq.shtml

 

I've not indicated any industries but I guess it could be operated pretty much as is suggested in the article.

 

Colin

 

 

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Here's my idea for my modules.....

 

attachicon.gifFreeMo Dow 1.jpg

 

Well it's not all my idea but is taken from Lance Mindheim's blog earlier this year.......

http://www.lancemindheim.com/blog.htm Scroll down to the entry below 7 April 2013

 

I think the plan lend's itself very well to modules, in this case using four 4' x 18" modules giving a total length of 16' x 18" . 

 

The idea being taken from The Dow Chemical Job on the OpSig website

http://www.opsig.org/doff/aotq.shtml

 

I've not indicated any industries but I guess it could be operated pretty much as is suggested in the article.

 

Colin

Hello, Colin:  simple, effective and realistic, with a good amount of operational fun.  One small suggestion:  allow space at one end at least, for locomotive release (eg, the length of two geeps), without having to travel on to the next set of modules either side of yours.  It just makes things a wee bit easier when there may be switching occurring on those other modules next to you (therefore the ideal solution of having "spacer" single track boards between each set of modules, which gives more room to switch without constantly having to roam back and forth across next-door modules - even a two feet length either side would allow much more freedom). 

 

As said before, one of our priorities at Western Union in Plymouth is to build more simple, one-track boards, because we've learned from experience that having track distance between each set of switchable modules avoids frustrating snarl-ups.

 

Brian

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I think that's really nice Colin - it's got a lovely simplicity about it, but lots of potential for being used in different ways.

 

Ref Brian's point, you can look at it at least two ways, I think either one is a valid bit of reasoning, both have their good points, and it's entirely your choice.

 

1. I look at that and think 'passing siding' when I see that long, unencumbered second track running the whole length - every freemo setup will be capable of different train lengths but in my book there is no such a thing as a passing siding being 'too long'! ;) In addition it sounds like we will have a reasonable sprinkling of simple plain track (what Brian calls 'spacer') modules anyhow, and a large room to deploy them in, so spacing locations out may not be quite such an issue.

 

2. The other thing would be if it were used as the end of a line (or I guess, even as a small layout in it's own right with a fiddle yard or staging track at one end) - in that scenario you'd then be forced to put a further short bit of track beyond it to allow it to be used - having the switch a couple of feet in from at least one end means you wouldn't need to add anything beyond it...

 

If you did keep it as it is, and we did use it at the end of a line then our group has a few short 18" 'endscene' boards (albeit only semi-compliant) that could also fulfil that headshunt role if it came to it - so it wouldn't be the end of the world.

 

 

 

Brian....does a "spacer" have to be self supporting or can it be clamped between to modules?

 

I think in terms of what Brian is suggesting he means 'plain track' modules, so those would need to be treated as a standalone, self supporting module (and so could be used in any location) - there are ones that other folk are building (for instance Chris's bridge module) and there are some already in existence, for example Andy's street running section, our group also has a handful of plain track modules...

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Had a unexpected day of yesterday so started on the build,ends are 12mm ply,the rest was built out of 6mm ply laminated together to make 18mm beams,once all the glue was set (not long in this heat),ply was added for were point control/dcc panel are located,then all the gaps are fill with spray foam.

 

Legs fit into simple pockets at  the ends, just need a coat of primer to seal it all,then were ready for cork and track (also a track plan for the extra 3 boards i built).

 

post-13979-0-38406800-1374144286_thumb.jpg

 

post-13979-0-52008700-1374144296_thumb.jpg

 

Not to bad on the pocket either,as i used all my ply off-cuts to construct them,just bourght a sheet of ply for the tops,and some extra timber for the legs, total so far £21.00,they need adjustable feet,6mm x 75mm bolts (got) and rubber door stops (screwfix today 20 for £3.20) fixed into 6mm tee nuts(done).

 

Haven,t tried to put the 2 sets of module together yet, that Sundays job,both module will be 10'6"(21') would like to build some spacer boards but don't think they'll all fit in the car,will try at some time.

 

Ray

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  • RMweb Gold

Ray

 

Superb work.

 

my plan is to have a baseboard building day for the converter boards (aswell as the new Czech HO layout) but its just too hot at the moment down here for me.

 

Does any one else have an Amtrak station on their modules so we can run an Amtrak service from mine.?

 

Ian

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Ray

 

Superb work.

 

my plan is to have a baseboard building day for the converter boards (aswell as the new Czech HO layout) but its just too hot at the moment down here for me.

 

Does any one else have an Amtrak station on their modules so we can run an Amtrak service from mine.?

 

Ian

 

I'm in agreement regarding the weather...!!

 

I'm now thinking of adding something like this to the Street Running extension....:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/11th_Street_(NICTD)

 

Regarding the legs issue, I did think about a single set of legs in the middle of a short board, but it obviously would't be self-supporting, and would require more to ensure it was locked onto neighbouring boards than a single clamp.

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  • RMweb Gold

I'm in agreement regarding the weather...!!

 

I'm now thinking of adding something like this to the Street Running extension....:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/11th_Street_(NICTD)

 

Regarding the legs issue, I did think about a single set of legs in the middle of a short board, but it obviously would't be self-supporting, and would require more to ensure it was locked onto neighbouring boards than a single clamp.

Ah... the South Shore line. A very interesting one both in where it runs and how they split and join portions along the route to and from Chicago.

 

You could put the standard full width leg at one end with a single timber leg at the other end (with timber blocks on the board to stop the leg twisting or turning . I have done this with the original 2ft end boards on Fort Myers. You will be Ok as long the the adjacent module has a full width leg.

 

Ian

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Andy - remember the module needs to be self supporting, but each individual board that forms part of that module does not...

 

So, assuming you were adding a further 2' to your 2', and had the idea that they would always work together, it might be as simple as bolting them together securely to make a 4' module, and either centering your current stand underneath it, or adding one extra simple leg to support the 'new' end...

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Brian....does a "spacer" have to be self supporting or can it be clamped between to modules?

 

Colin

Colin, I believe Mr Read has answered your question fully.  The space for a run-around at one end would also allow the module to be used as a terminus, without the requirement for an extension.

 

In 16', the loss of, say, 16" on the size of the loop isn't the end of the world.  But as Martyn also says, it's always useful to have a reasonably-sized passing loop.  Too small, and it becomes rather pointless, as opined a few pages ago.

 

Brian  

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I guess I should be starting a new "My Module Thread" but for now I'll add it to this thread.

 

Ok, with comments in mind I've tweaked my plan.....

 

post-225-0-78931300-1374184480_thumb.jpg

 

I've shortened the loops and made a 24" straight track at the left hand side and an 18" straight track to the right hand side (this could easily be made 24" but I was experimenting to see what effect these adjustments made on the loops).  I've also put some stock on the tracks to get an idea of what fits.  For info, Black is a 40' Tank Car, Yellow is a 50' Box Car and Red represents a GP38 (I think they're about 60'?).

 

As commented, this could also be a stand alone layout.  The addition of a fiddle track or cassette at one end would provide somewhere for the trains to go.  To be honest this was the idea I had in mind to hopefully produce a layout for TVNAM 2014 (assuming you've got space Nick!) and also something that could be used for the FreeMo Extravaganza (maybe I'll re-name it Two Birds!).  It's a bit bigger though than I'd initially imagined and a fiddle board would also increase the size. 

 

Colin

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I've come up with a plan,using the points i have 1 LH#8,1 RH#8 and 2 LH #5's need a few extra lengths of track, it's a bit like Colinw62 plan without the extra loop,i haven't allowed for loco release this would make the loop to small to be usefull (this may change),the bigger plan is to use this as a stand alone at a later date (TVNAM 20??) with fiddle yard on each end.

 

post-13979-0-70544200-1374218927_thumb.jpg

 

Now just got'a find time to finnish them!!!!!

 

Ray

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I've used a freeware cutting list program to fit the parts I want onto 2 sheets of 1220x2440mm ply. However one of the sheets ends up with in the region of 50 cuts. Are any wood suppliers likely to actually do that many (for a fee presumably)

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I've used a freeware cutting list program to fit the parts I want onto 2 sheets of 1220x2440mm ply. However one of the sheets ends up with in the region of 50 cuts. Are any wood suppliers likely to actually do that many (for a fee presumably)

 

I have a one-man timber supplier I sometimes use and he always quotes "per cut" so that is possibly the norm.

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There are some places that cut for free, you just need to look hard and check, I use a lumber yard who cut for free and stock birch ply. Unhelpfully though it is located north of Brum. Would a cheap(ish) table saw or hire of one be more useful?

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  • RMweb Gold

If they're all straight cuts a circular saw would be faster and more accurate ;) if there are a lot of duplicate parts see if you can slice the board up then cut two or three layers at once. B&Q do up to five cuts free and I've got all my cuts for free by careful planning, sometimes split by two visits over a week when I'm passing the store anyway rather than pay for extra cuts, to cut like this, once you've taken half the wood dept apart to find some flat plywood ;) I generally start with 8x4 sheets as they cost only slightly more than the ready sawn smaller sheets.

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