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I considered a circular saw, but they are pretty big and expensive for the amount of use I would get out of one.

Here's my cutting list, although I may rejig it to take Paul's two sheet cutting idea into account. All the parts are in multiple of two so it should work

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I considered a circular saw, but they are pretty big and expensive for the amount of use I would get out of one.

Here's my cutting list, although I may rejig it to take Paul's two sheet cutting idea into account. All the parts are in multiple of two so it should work

attachicon.gifcutting list.png

 

Tim

I take it the computer cutting list has allowed for saw blade width (can vary) and the person who's going to cut the wood (this can vary a lot) even if you tell them you want exact measurments,it doesn't always come out that way(don't ask how i know),not all wood yards will have the big flat deck cutting saws.

 

I would have a shop about, my local timber shop gives you 4 free cuts,then its 50p a cut,(unless you a regular)

 

Good luck and hope there straight cuts!!!

 

Ray

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The alternative to wood yard cuts is to hire a carpenter. I remember comparing the price of cuts in B&Q/Homebase/Phllips in Alton, UK. Then coming here I anguished for weeks over the lack of a wall mounted board saws, the inevitability of providing tools, board and lodging for a carpenter. In the end the plywood and glue was bought, here they call it quarter inch plyboard. The carpenter was 5 GBP a  day worked or 10 days, stated at dawn at 5 a.m. and could always cut a straight line. I remember the cutting list was on the back of an envelope; no computers here, like 26 off 6 inch by 48 inch. Also I fabricated an assembly fixture, with drilled hole and guidance lines, using half inch blockboard.  The plan was 13 four by two foot modules.

 

 

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Paul, have you seen this thread?

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/72708-laser-cut-baseboards/

Ray, the program does have a blade width setting, I've allowed 5 mm in those diagrams but it's something I need to ask. To tell the truth, I was only really playing with the program, although it did prove to me that the parts I wanted would fit on to 8 by 4 sheets it seems not to actually arrange the parts very logically and requires some manual tweaking afterwards.

Clarke, not sure I could afford that here!

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Discussing it with our guys at our Saturday work session, we wondered how many folk are working on curved modules? I know Chris is, any others?

 

No plans as of yet to build any curved modules. 

 

Mine will be 18 feet straight including the converter boards

 

If the weather cools down when I have a spare day I will get the converter boards built.

 

If by early next year there is a shortage of curved boards then I will consider building one or two.

 

Ian

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Discussing it with our guys at our Saturday work session, we wondered how many folk are working on curved modules? I know Chris is, any others?

 

I am hoping to do a couple of single track curves, maybe also a junction/interchange which would have a 45 degree curve in it. It all depends on time and space. No more exhibiting over the rest of the summer after this wekeend so here's hoping. I have a garage full of timber etc awaiting the saw and drill.

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Discussing it with our guys at our Saturday work session, we wondered how many folk are working on curved modules? I know Chris is, any others?

 

Wasn't planning to build any,don't think there will be room in the car,might be worth a head count on curved modules,if there's not enough we can always open the fire doors and head out on to the car park,it would be a bit like BN's "Aurora racetrack"!!!!

 

Ray

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And remember, a curve doesn't need to be 45% or 90% etc!

It doesn't, but if they're to be used with other boards, you don't really want a single one of, eg, 41 degrees, as it would prove difficult to being the layout "back on true", as it will usually be following the lines of the walls.  It would be a good idea to do two of the same angle (of whatever degree), for this reason too.  One of our members has made a set of four 45-degree boards, which are really useful.  The club has acquired two sets of curved boards, 6 x 60-degree, and we plan to make them into single-track modular curves.  

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Wasn't planning to build any,don't think there will be room in the car,might be worth a head count on curved modules,if there's not enough we can always open the fire doors and head out on to the car park,it would be a bit like BN's "Aurora racetrack"!!!!

 

Ray

So who's building waterproof boards and scenery then!!

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It doesn't, but if they're to be used with other boards, you don't really want a single one of, eg, 41 degrees, as it would prove difficult to being the layout "back on true", as it will usually be following the lines of the walls.  It would be a good idea to do two of the same angle (of whatever degree), for this reason too.  One of our members has made a set of four 45-degree boards, which are really useful.  The club has acquired two sets of curved boards, 6 x 60-degree, and we plan to make them into single-track modular curves.

 

A thought I had would have been a 6' long board with a u shaped track layout, giving a square end to a row and turning back on itself. No need for fancy curved baseboards either.

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A thought I had would have been a 6' long board with a u shaped track layout, giving a square end to a row and turning back on itself. No need for fancy curved baseboards either.

Dave

What radius are you thinking of using,the recommend one is 36" for main lines,its going to be a big board to turn 36" and keep 18" centres think minimum board you'd get away with is 90" x 40",or have i got this wrong,

 

SWMBO always saying i'm wrong,even when i'm right!!!!!

 

Do we have any picture of curved modules under construction or sizes??

 

Ray

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Three pictures, constructing curved modules using pink foam and ply: 

 

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Three 45-degree modules:

 

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180 degrees, four modules, ready for electrics and track: 

 

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The track has a 32" radius, and you also have to dig out enough foam at either end to facilitate secure clamping.  They are carried back-to-back, and now have basic scenery attached.  They are incredibly useful.

 

Brian

 

 

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Thanks guys, good that there's potentially a few, we do have some (2x 90deg, 2x 45deg) within our group but I think we will need more curves to fit things in.

 

Tim, quite right it doesn't need to be any given angle, but just for practicality it's much easier to both fit and plan to a (usually*) square room with multiples of 45deg - if folk start building ones with odd angles i'll have to finally give up planning with basic maths and a pencil and learn CAD. ;)

 

 

 

think minimum board you'd get away with is 90" x 40",or have i got this wrong,

 

For a single module of 180deg with the 36" min I think you're spot on with those measurements.

 

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Do we have any picture of curved modules under construction or sizes??

 

To add to Brian's...

 

Bucks Farm is one of Neil Rogers' 45deg curves, it's a straight timber frame with a plywood top, and a thin curved fascia added on the outside of the curve - size-wise from memory it's about 3'6" long in it's longest dimension (a straight line between the end points of the curved side) 

http://rstowerfreemo.wordpress.com/the-modules/farm-curve/

 

Rockwood Depot is a 90deg module with one double and one single track end, arranged over 2 boards, each board is very similar to Bucks Farm structurally but obviously with one 20" modular end

http://rstowerfreemo.wordpress.com/the-modules/depot-curve/

 

The US guys seem to largely build straight boards with two angled ends to make curves, this kind of thing:

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(*We did a thing at Peco once, and ended up in a room that was triangular shaped, with I think about 30deg angle between the two main walls....that was....interesting!)

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Discussing it with our guys at our Saturday work session, we wondered how many folk are working on curved modules? I know Chris is, any others?

 

Seaboard Southern have a couple of 180 degree curve modules, one of which can be split into a pair of 90 degree units

 

Dan

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This is my plan, I might make it 9 feet long, so 3 x 3ft sections. 

I'm going to make it as a stand alone layout,It's L shaped.

 

What do you think, too much track?

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The bottom left is going to be a Walthers Allied Rail Rebuilders, the lower right hand spur is going to be a single engine house(Pikestuff), i'm not sure about the 2 upper spurs???

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This is my plan, I might make it 9 feet long, so 3 x 3ft sections. 

I'm going to make it as a stand alone layout,It's L shaped.

 

What do you think, too much track?

attachicon.giffreemo.jpg

 

The bottom left is going to be a Walthers Allied Rail Rebuilders, the lower right hand spur is going to be a single engine house(Pikestuff), i'm not sure about the 2 upper spurs???

Not so much, "too much track", but possibly difficult to access the two lower LH tracks from the top side if you're switching; essentially, all tracks should be easily reach-able from either side. I'd suggest you straighten out the two lower tracks to keep the width down, even if it means adding a couple of feet to the LH end. 

 

Brian

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