2 BIL to Blue BIL

[Colin parks]

The final finishing  of the 2 BIL has resumed after our recent trip to Berlin.

 

Many thanks to Godfrey Glyn  for the high-res. photos of unit 2090.  Pity Hornby never bothered to go and have a look at it (insert ending of your choice): A ) properly.   B ) at all.  C ) and take some photos while they were there!

 

Etched handles have been applied and some gentle weathering was done before re-fitting of the Hornby glazing.  (The DTC is perched on a piece of wood at the inner end as the Hornby wheels of the unit have been removed in order to have their pizza-cutter flanges reduced.):

 

 

There is an issue with some of the glazing on the corridor side of the DTC tilting in at the top, which it did even before removal. I am letting well alone for now, because there doesn't seem to be an easy way of correcting this.

 

The compartment side glazing went back without incident on both vehicles. The Roxey commode handles are rather too close to the (Southern Pride) door handles due, I think, to my inability to put a double fold in the commode handles' mounting plates, thus making them too wide by 0.5mm or so, but I can live with that.  Here again is the DTC:

 

 

 

The cab front has received some weathering too.  The MU fitting to the left and right have had the original jumper cables glued back in place and the plugs repainted in yellow.  The centre (Hornby) cable has been replaced by a loop of .009" guitar string blackened with a CD marker pen.

 

 

The screw coupling and air pipes are from a Hornby 08 detailing pack available as spares from various suppliers including Peter's Spares.  The last little bit of detailing will be to loop the red ended pipes and feed the yellow ended ones through them, then add the head code (courtesy of Ceptic) to the DMBS and white 'glass' (in the form of 10 thou. plastic) on the DTC. 

 

As a postscript to the above, while fixing the glazing back in on the DTC's compartment side, one large pane got smeared with super glue on its outer surface.  I nearly cried as I tried in vain to polish the affected area with a cloth.  No use.  Then, I thought perhaps a fine abrasive would remove the glue and perhaps the plastic could be polished back after that.

 

The nearest fine abrasive available was in the bathroom in the form of Colgate Total toothpaste.  It removed the smear after two applications rubbed in with a finger tip and cleaned off with a paper tissue.  I couldn't believe my eyes, perhaps it hadn't been superglue after all!   So I tested a piece of PETG glaze smeared with about the same amount of glue and it was removed in just the same way with a nice polished finish to the glazing as well.

 

Does anyone know why this works?

 

Colin  

Edited August 25, 2013 by Colin parks

[Clive Mortimore]

Just looking back through photos of EMU roofs.  

 

 

The shots in this link to the old 2 HAP building topic  show 2 HAPs fitted with roof  ventilators that have no visible base plate.  It seems certain the Southern Railway EMUs, such as the 2 BILs (and the 4 CORs)  had this pattern of vent too.  

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/15056-bulleid-2hap-emu/page-8

 

The photos shown (in post 183) are by dasatcopthorne, without whom ....

 

So, the search for the ideal 2 BIL roof ventilator continues Howard!

 

Colin 

Hi Colin

 

I saw Chris form NNK yesterday. He thinks he has some SR EMU torpeado vents. Might be worth contacting him.

[SRman]

The final finishing  of the 2 BIL has resumed after our recent trip to Berlin.

 

Many thanks to Godfrey Glyn  for the high-res. photos of unit 2090.  Pity Hornby never bothered to go and have a look at it (insert ending of your choice): A ) properly.   B ) at all.  C ) and take some photos while they were there!

 

Etched handles have been applied and some gentle weathering was done before re-fitting of the Hornby glazing.  (The DTC is perched on a piece of wood at the inner end as the Hornby wheels of the unit have been removed in order to have their pizza-cutter flanges reduced.):

 

IMG_6952.JPG

 

There is an issue with some of the glazing on the corridor side of the DTC tilting in at the top, which it did even before removal. I am letting well alone for now, because there doesn't seem to be an easy way of correcting this.

 

The compartment side glazing went back without incident on both vehicles. The Roxey commode handles are rather too close to the (Southern Pride) door handles due, I think, to my inability to put a double fold in the commode handles' mounting plates, thus making them too wide by 0.5mm or so, but I can live with that.  Here again is the DTC:

 

IMG_6955.JPG

 

 

The cab front has received some weathering too.  The MU fitting to the left and right have had the original jumper cables glued back in place and the plugs repainted in yellow.  The centre (Hornby) cable has been replaced by a loop of .009" guitar string blackened with a CD marker pen.

 

IMG_6954.JPG

 

The screw coupling and air pipes are from a Hornby 08 detailing pack available as spares from various suppliers including Peter's Spares.  The last little bit of detailing will be to loop the red ended pipes and feed the yellow ended ones through them, then add the head code (courtesy of Ceptic) to the DMBS and white 'glass' (in the form of 10 thou. plastic) on the DTC. 

 

As a postscript to the above, while fixing the glazing back in on the DTC's compartment side, one large pane got smeared with super glue on its outer surface.  I nearly cried as I tried in vain to polish the affected area with a cloth.  No use.  Then, I thought perhaps a fine abrasive would remove the glue and perhaps the plastic could be polished back after that.

 

The nearest fine abrasive available was in the bathroom in the form of Colgate Total toothpaste.  It removed the smear after two applications rubbed in with a finger tip and cleaned off with a paper tissue.  I couldn't believe my eyes, perhaps it hadn't been superglue after all!   So I tested a piece of PETG glaze smeared with about the same amount of glue and it was removed in just the same way with a nice polished finish to the glazing as well.

 

Does anyone know why this works?

 

Colin  

 

Toothpaste is mildly abrasive. I have used it to clean resin kits and also my glasses on occasions, although now I have plastic lenses I'm a little more wary of using toothpaste as a cleaner.

[Gwiwer]

That looks a lot like a blue 2Bil Colin.  I can almost hear the hum of the electric motors and the thumpa-thumpa-thumpa of the compressor.  Add the slightly musty smell of the compartments and I could be taken almost 50 years to the time these were running on the Sussex coast very easily.  Excellent workmanship sir.

Edited August 26, 2013 by Gwiwer

[Xerces Fobe2]

Another great project completed Colin the 2BIL looks fantastic in BR Blue. The only question now is what' is your next project?

 

Nigel

[Siberian Snooper]

Tooth paste is also useful for bedding in recalcitrant gears.

 

SS

[Tigermoth]

This has turned out very well i am looking forward to the next project maybe in P4 ?

Edited December 21, 2020 by Tigermoth

[Colin parks]

Another great project completed Colin the 2BIL looks fantastic in BR Blue. The only question now is what' is your next project?

 

Nigel

Hi Nigel,

 

The next EMU will be  4 SUB 4377.  You will soon be able to find the topic in the Kitbuilding & Scratchbuilding sub-forum (no pun intended!) - after my nerves have recovered from this project.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Colin parks]

This has turned out very well i am looking forward to the next project....... maybe in P4 ?

Hi Tigermoth,

 

I have weighed up the possibilities of going to P4 against moving to EM or staying with 00, but am still undecided. 

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Clive Mortimore]

Hi Nigel,

 

The next EMU will be  4 SUB 4377.  You will soon be able to find the topic in the Kitbuilding & Scratchbuilding sub-forum (no pun intended!) - after my nerves have recovered from this project.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

Hi Colin

 

At least with scratchbuilding all errors are the builders own, ethier through poor workmanship or lack of research. Niether of which applies to you from what you have done in the past.

 

 

Saddly both do apply to me.

Edited August 26, 2013 by Clive Mortimore

[5Bel]

Hi Colin,

 

The 2Bil looks so much better in Blue. You have carried out an excellent upgrade. The yellow on the front does go a long way to hide the fact that the front is way too flat. I saw a green one in Kernow models last week and can say I was not too impressed by it. My old Kirk kit will be getting a dust off and a Hornby motor bogie to finish it. On the subject of roof vents, it may be worth trying to contact Coopercraft to see if they do the vents from their 4Sub kit separately, they look good on my model. Good luck with the Sub.

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

[Colin parks]

Headcodes in.

 

 

Recognise those numerals Frank?! The actual printed numbers are on ordinary 80gsm paper, just to get an idea of the appearance. The stencil code looks just right to me. the paper can be removed if experiments with matt photo paper produces a sharper, denser black. But for now, it looks fine.

 

One way of printing to 4mm scale: Using Microsoft, the downloaded file from here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/73227-sr-brs-emu-route-numbers/page-2&do=findComment&comment=1124171 was printed onto 6" x 4" glossy photo paper (selecting 4 images to the page), then copied at 40% reduction on an Epson multi-function printer.

 

With many thanks to Ceptic,

 

Colin

Edited August 26, 2013 by Colin parks

[Colin parks]

Hi Colin

 

At least with scratchbuilding all errors are the builders own, ethier through poor workmanship or lack of research. Niether of which applies to you from what you have done in the past.

 

 

Saddly both do apply to me.

Hi Clive,

 

I wouldn't be so self-deprecating if I were you. After all, the vast majority of we modellers do not have the resources that a major company has to produce models with, er, no mistakes.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Colin parks]

Hi Colin,

 

The 2Bil looks so much better in Blue. You have carried out an excellent upgrade. The yellow on the front does go a long way to hide the fact that the front is way too flat. I saw a green one in Kernow models last week and can say I was not too impressed by it. My old Kirk kit will be getting a dust off and a Hornby motor bogie to finish it. On the subject of roof vents, it may be worth trying to contact Coopercraft to see if they do the vents from their 4Sub kit separately, they look good on my model. Good luck with the Sub.

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

Hi Thanks Ian,

 

Yes, the 2 BIl does look rather better in blue, but I cannot avoid noticing how flat the cab front is now that has been pointed out to me. Strange how Ian Kirk, armed with now more than a few photos, a drawing and a milling machine cutting at 1:1 managed to capture the character of the 2 BIL so well - even with the mis-placed folds on the front!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Siberian Snooper]

Hi Colin

 

You certainly have the abilities to move up to either EM or S4, S4 would allow some interworking on SMH with Old Lugger. I look forward to a new trainset build.

 

SS

[Colin parks]

Hi Colin

 

You certainly have the abilities to move up to either EM or S4, S4 would allow some interworking on SMH with Old Lugger. I look forward to a new trainset build.

 

SS

Hi SS,

 

Well, Oldlugger and I did briefly discuss a collaboration, so you never know!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Tigermoth]

Flat face or not the above photo does look really good moving up to P4 represents a challenge which needs thinking about, the thing is you have reached such a level with your modelling that your almost forced to move up, in anycase looking forward to the next project.

Edited December 21, 2020 by Tigermoth

[Colin parks]

Flat face or not the above photo does look really good ...moving up to P4 represents a challenge which needs thinking about, the thing is you have reached such a level with your modelling that your almost forced to move up, in anycase looking forward to the next project.

Hi Tigermoth,

 

Thanks indeed!  I just don't know if I'm up to it - most of the time there is a lot of bodging in my work which you just couldn't get away with if modelling to fine tolerances.

 

 

Do you model in P4 by the way?

 

Colin

[Colin parks]

The final shot for this topic (perhaps!).

 

 

 

More photos are to be found on the Newhaven Harbour topic.

 

Thanks to all who have offered advice, plans, photos, headcode art-work(!) and encouragement - the EMU  building committee!

 

Colin

[the penguin of doom]

Just caught the end of this one Colin but will have a good read through when time permits.

 

Quick question, the 08 couplers, are they capable of being used? They look very fine, and as you know, I like to add screw links to my loco's.

 

Smashing work as ever and looking very nice indeed.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

Edited August 26, 2013 by the penguin of doom

[Colin parks]

Just caught the end of this one Colin but will have a good read through when time permits.

 

Quick question, the 08 couplers, are they capable of being used? They look very fine, and as you know, I like to add screw links to my loco's.

 

Smashing work as ever and looking very nice indeed.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

Hi Sean,

 

Thanks for your comments.  Bashing away at an RTR model was a bit out of my comfort zone! 

 

Re. the couplings, they are fully working, though one has proved a little stiff, but could be eased without much trouble. The only thing to remember is that the tommy bar is cranked, which is not correct for most prototypes, but having said that, the couplings are nice and fine.  You also get various air pipes, vacuum pipes and drain cocks in the packet too.  See here

 

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Peters-Spares-Model-Railways-Ltd/Hornby-Spares-New-/_i.html?_nkw=08+Accessory+pack&submit=Search&_fsub=2084660018&_sid=16358168

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Tigermoth]

Hi Tigermoth,

 

Thanks indeed!  I just don't know if I'm up to it - most of the time there is a lot of bodging in my work which you just couldn't get away with if modelling to fine tolerances.

 

 

Do you model in P4 by the way?

 

Colin

No i don't model in P4 being a long time NG modeller but i do really enjoy seeing good modelling in all scales and find it very inspiring as i have with your modelling, but what i have noticed with you is your attention to dimensions and détails, it was for this reason that P4 seems a logical move, but obviously a big step to make.

Edited August 26, 2013 by Tigermoth

[Miss Prism]

Moving to P4 seems something of an irrelevance to Colin's work in my view, although no doubt he would find it a walk in the park. Moving from blue to green might be a far greater challenge...

[SHMD]

Thanks for the journey Colin.

 

I didn't post during the build as I quite literally did not have anything to add!

Well done and enjoy the fruits of your labour. We are.

 

 

Kev.

[HAB]

 

  I just don't know if I'm up to it - most of the time there is a lot of bodging in my work which you just couldn't get away with if modelling to fine tolerances.

 

 

Don't believe anyone who says P4 modellers do not bodge - we do - it is just that there are a few who will pretend they don't.  Let me say that if you agonise over the position of a toilet window and then decide not to ignore it, you have proved that you are fully the master of tight tolerances!

 

What Miss Prism says about P4 being irrelevant is of course perfectly true - good modelling is good modelling - but first-class stock looks even better on first-class track, as Simon has demonstrated at SMH.

 

As I have said before, if you do decide to dip your toes in, you will find lots of friends willing to help. And this talk of a collaboration sounds interesting...

 

Looking forward to the 4Sub in the meantime,

 

Best wishes,

 

Howard.