My YMRV Mk1 Hack, TPO 'r' us

[Ian Fisher]

 

First piece of plastic removed, I will endeavour to get the other four to the same state over the coming hours. The aperture will be neatened up, then the lower edge will be thinned to give the roller shutter etch sonething to rest on.

[Ian Fisher]

It is funny working with a model from another manufacturer, when you have become accustomed to the first release version. Lima's GUV has been around for a good while and for its age and era was for me a milestone model, but a *ugger to carve up!

 

The Bachmann incarnation has lots of lovely separately applied items and what took me many hours to carve and remove detail from Lima's waxy chassis, for this version removal of vac cylinders and the extra equipment box took less than five minutes.

 

It should be a straightforward job to add in an airbrake distributor, air tank, cylinder and associated pipe runs. The only thing that will hold this job is having a stab at what goes where.

 

 

From studying photographs each vehicle seems to have been fitted out with airbake equipment on a rather random pattern.

[Ian Fisher]

Air brake bits and bobs come from a variety of manufacturers, for the NOA I am using Southern Pride Air Tanks P167. Westinghouse distributor from Inter-City models ICA23 and actutaors from a choice of Westinghouse ICA5 or ICA32 BR type.

 

 

 

Also in the pic are some Hurst combined tank and distrubtor casting which I am sure will be used within a build.

[Colin parks]

Hi Ian,

 

I do admire those willing to convert brand-new models using files, drills and other sundry weapons!

 

I shall be watching with interest once again.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Huw Griffiths]

I do admire those willing to convert brand-new models using files, drills and other sundry weapons!

 

I shall be watching with interest once again.

 

Same here.

 

I'm also learning a lot from stuff like this.

 

Threads like this are also very useful to people like me, with rather less in the way of the skills / experience needed for similar conversions.

 

I know it'll be a while (if ever) before I come out with a similar thread. However, I also know I'll get plenty of inspiration here in the meantime.

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

[Ian Fisher]

The roof has had the Bachmann roof vents pulled off and drilled through to accept the new cast torpedo vents.

 

 

Few more to add then its out with the superglue.

[the penguin of doom]

Same here.

 

I'm also learning a lot from stuff like this.

 

Threads like this are also very useful to people like me, with rather less in the way of the skills / experience needed for similar conversions.

 

I know it'll be a while (if ever) before I come out with a similar thread. However, I also know I'll get plenty of inspiration here in the meantime.

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

Huw,

 

I wouldn't be afraid to start a thread early if I were you. With the caveat that you're a novice and new to this sort of thing, most on here will offer help, advice and support in a most positive manner. There are always some who will be critical, and how you choose to deal with this is up to you, but in the main, most who join in on these type of threads will be willing you to succeed.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

[Ian Fisher]

Huw,

 

As Sean says if there is something you fancy doing go for it, I am just daft enough to hack, cut, screw, glue bits and bobs together.

 

I havent finnished a full project in ages, but the occasional nice word here really gees me on I can tell you.

 

And dont forget there are no daft questions just daft replies....

 

Now where's the superglue?

[Ian Fisher]

The main stuff that needs to go has gone the roller shutter doors apertures just neatening and the reconstruction can begin in earnest.

 

[Ian Fisher]

One job complete!

 

An afternoon out at the Loughborough show enabled a few bits and bobs to be sourced and others replenished.

 

Rural railways had a stock of Alan Gibson torpedo vents, so having been able to remove the vents as a separate fit item secured with a hint of glue. It is a simple process to enlarge the hole to get the new casting to fit. I just make sure once I'm happy with the fit to slightly rebate the hole so the new bit sits into rather than on the roof. The same is done on the inside again this seems to let the glue run to were it needs to be.

 

 

Inside the roof with just a merest of superglue drops on each casting.

 

 

The overall roof with all the new vents

 

 

I am happy with these. Just needs a blast of primer then the roof can be toned down.

 

 

Once painted will it be worth the effort? Will any notice?

[Ian Fisher]

The bodysides on superguvs are a real mixed bag and unlike the toolmakers slab sided very neat sides the vehicle im modelling loojs to have had a rough time of it.

 

I intended to put a little extra into this model, given that it will not normally work with other GUV's, which lead to me securing a Bachmann example over a Lima one. The doors on 762 seem to have only been partially sealed up with a thin sheet over the window. To model this I have filled the window, then intend to cut a 5thou blanking plate, it also has a window frame again from five thou. It also has reinforcing from steel strip on the lower coach edge and up the door opening, these again will be added.

 

I'm thinking of trying the low release celotape for the lower edge plating and see how it goes.

 

 

[Ian Fisher]

RCH connectors junction box...

 

These subtle but necessary detail need creating TPO's have two each left and right, four each end.

 

This is my first take on the job.

 

 

The outer tube is 2.4mm centre drilled with a 1.5mm drill, I shouldve of purchased 1.5mm rod from Modelex yesterday to go with the tube! I have spent the last hour using finger pressure and a file to reduce some 2mm rod checking with calipers every few minutes, this finally acheived I have put the rod into the tube (to protect the tube's shape) and then filed a flat edge on the tube as the pairs butt up against each other.

 

http://ukrailwaypics.smugmug.com/Coaches/NPCCS/NTA-Post-Office-stowage-van/i-TW8pGfb/A

 

Martyn Read's excellent images show in the above link what I've rattled on about.

 

Next up will be some slicing in two sizes to get a top hat sort of set of shapes.

 

[Ian Fisher]

Hi Colin,

 

Call me an idiot!

 

Having had Lima GUV's and the their halfbreed Super GUV's in numbers, The Bachmann version was sought to see if it gave any advantage. Happily it seems it was well worth going over to ebay, it is a crying shame in some regards that the vehicle arrived mint.

 

But knives files and drills later, I am well underway in creating the ninth distinctive vehicle of eleven in the rake.

 

Any ideas on creating four window frames would be warmly welcomed, self build I think in this instance being the way forward. I am after creating a two pain window 3/4 big window 1/4, a few GUV's seem to share this feature, but nothing I can recall seening modelled.

 

Thank you for looking in and to the other 8,000+ views from RM Web viewers, I never realised TPO's and their associated vehicles were that interesting.

 

 

 

 

Hi Ian,

 

I do admire those willing to convert brand-new models using files, drills and other sundry weapons!

 

I shall be watching with interest once again.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Multiple identity account 2]

Are those DC Kits sides direct replacements for a Hornby Mk1 chassis?

[Ian Fisher]

Not sure Jerry, I havent actually ever had a Hornby Mark one in bits.

 

The sides and ends come from a complete kit, which had its own roof and floor pan, just the opportunity the YMRV coaches provided seemed to be the spurr the build needed having been started ages and ages ago.

 

Each visible panel is a seperate piece and really benefits from the more substantial tooled YMRV roof to keep things straight.

 

Are those DC Kits sides direct replacements for a Hornby Mk1 chassis?

[Ian Fisher]

Those RCH style connectors are going to have some attention today, first up in the assembly sequence is to roughly chop the 2.4mm tube.

 

 

 

The start of the stash, I think I will have a play at a jig that will set the size of the piece.

 

I am thinking that I can glue over size, then pare back to the size I need, fingers crossed which should lessen lose of parts and distortion the 2.4mm backing isnt shouldn't be very thick at all.

[Colin parks]

Hi Colin,

 

Call me an idiot!

 

Having had Lima GUV's and the their halfbreed Super GUV's in numbers, The Bachmann version was sought to see if it gave any advantage. Happily it seems it was well worth going over to ebay, it is a crying shame in some regards that the vehicle arrived mint.

 

But knives files and drills later, I am well underway in creating the ninth distinctive vehicle of eleven in the rake.

 

Any ideas on creating four window frames would be warmly welcomed, self build I think in this instance being the way forward. I am after creating a two pain window 3/4 big window 1/4, a few GUV's seem to share this feature, but nothing I can recall seening modelled.

 

Thank you for looking in and to the other 8,000+ views from RM Web viewers, I never realised TPO's and their associated vehicles were that interesting.

Well Ian,

 

Taking a pristine Bachmann GUV out of its box, putting it on the track and running it as it is isn't very interesting. What is however, of rather more interest to many including me, is the spectacular wholesale carve-up job you are doing here!

 

The roof vents do look better than the moulded-on originals. I am still waiting to see the "fine undercutting" which one magazine editor recently said modern mould making technology can deliver. Stand-alone parts will always be better and the roof of a vehicle is fairly prominent on a model - most of us view our trains from above.

 

As for window frame production, the only thing I offer in terms of advice is to cut them in a line from edge to edge from 10 thou. plastic for uniformity then part them off and fix them to the coach side. Once hardened, the frames can be sanded down to about 4 thou. with care. (This is how the 4 COR ones were done.)

 

Another possible tip is that plastic rod & tubing (definitely Plastruct anyway) can be turned in a lathe in much the same way as metal using brass cutting tools (running at no more than 900rpm or it could melt!) This method might also be possible to adapt using a drill and using needle files instead. I have never had much luck chopping plastic rod or tube squarely using a knife. Making 64 of anything is not much fun - good luck.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Ian Fisher]

First job today get those roller shutter doors well and truley bonded in place.

 

 

The bottom lip was pared and filled down very carefully, once happy with the etch's seat I drilled three holes to allow surplus superglue a way out. The holes are visible in the picture below

 

 

Etch tacked from behind at top and bottom

 

 

Next up was to glue some reinforcement onto the sides again with superglue.

 

 

The almost finnished job, once the superglue has gone off, I will add sparingly some araldite to really make the joint nice and solid. Just the other three to do now.

[Ian Fisher]

Its all going well. One end having been carefully stripped is now anle to have its cleaner new plated end fitted in place.

 

 

Hopefully I will be able to reuse the rather fine Bachmann lamp irons which have been safely stored.

[Ian Fisher]

Thought I would share these images, the doors are easy to remove from the etch, a few scores with a craft knife in the side of the door and I was away. After a few scores it's a case of giving the etch a little encouragement a few more scores and you should be left with the following.

 

 

 

Just a few hours to fettle the opening and the coach is really coming on, now what to do with the sides? I am thinking maybe using them on a Lima Super GUV.

[Ian Fisher]

Two down two to go.

 

[Ian Fisher]

First go at drawing up the window frames in 5 thou sheet. I think it may take a few goes at this before I will be happy with the result.

 

Some window blanks still need to be drawn

[Ian Fisher]

 

 

First window frame just tacked on, it will be given a dot of solvent into the corners to get the frame to sit into the body.

 

It will also benefit from a rub with abrasive.

[Ian Fisher]

Well got up to a suprise this morning, the frame had distorted, there is a slight dip as the window although flush it is not flush enough.

 

The frame in the picture came off with no issue.

 

I did think it was a bit of a rush!

[Colin parks]

Hi Ian,

 

Rather you than me working in 5 thou.! I didn't appreciate that these windows were blanked off, but it still could be worth trying 10 thou. frames the sanding them down.

 

Here is picture (which you might have seen) of 10 thou. frames being fitted to coach windows. It is possible to get the frames quite narrow with the extra thickness, although the rounded corners of the BR Mk.1 frames is a lot trickier than the ones that are seen here:

 

 

Hope that helps,

 

Colin