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My YMRV Mk1 Hack, TPO 'r' us


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An almost midnight drive to Asda Tamworth allowed me to grab two of the models that accompany Your Model Railway Village part work.

I am under no illusion with what I purchased, it may lack the finesse of a Bachmann model, but overall it seems dimensionally OK.

Getting it home allowed a closer look, it wasn't long before I was looking to see if elements could be used from DC Kits Travelling Post Office models. I am thinking the roof and floor are that bit more rigid than what come with the kit, hopefully sometime in the future it will result in a standard build, with many parts purchased many moons ago.

The Mark one is held to the body with screws one visible in the trussing, the other two are under the bogies and close coupling unit, the bogies are a push fit and can be removed easily.

Before getting some zzz's I felt confident it would be worth sourcing further examples to create that long held dream of a robust tpo fleet.

WH Smith's in Burton happily took £24 from me for a few more this morning, so over a cuppa and in daylight a little further deconstruction has taken place. The battery boxes, Dynamo, the frame and vee's are well fixed but seperate items.

Just hope the trussing comes away smoothly and doesnt take away any integral strength

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The other main ingredients in this melting pot

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After a little nibble..

 

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Using a pair of side cutters taking out bits gradually. After halfway of making my first nibbles the chassis really bowed, *ugger I thought but working quickly I kept going to reduce the twist. It is now back, it does though need the trussing to give some rigidty.

 

Just needs some neatening and the DC kits trussing is ready to be (plastic)welded.

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All factory detail gone, it did not take too long

 

post-7587-0-03935700-1377892889.jpg

 

Just literally, tacked on but already firming up. It will need a little more plasticweld, but it issomething I try to do gradually allowing butt joints some chance to grab without the whole job being turned to jelly.

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post-7587-0-97247600-1377901042.jpg

 

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Well I have had the DC Kits from when they came out (how many years ago?)

 

I made a BPOT up and had to reinforce the roof, so development of the others slowed to be left in my trays.

 

I had looked at other options for rooves and such like but it has amazed me just how well the roof from the 3.99 model fits, it needs a little tweak but blimey charlie it fits better right now than Mr P's

 

It is just the sort of positive progression that will have me look at doing these as a batch doing the other seven as staged builds.

 

I intend to cut the ends off the chassis and detail the DC kits ends as they have the more accurate Mark one curve and tumblehome.

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What would be nice would be if an enterprising kit manufacturer knocked out cheap underframe detailing kits for these coaches. Judging by the number of coaches we seem to have bought between us there would be hundreds of potential sales if the price of the detailing kit was the same good value as the price of the original coach!

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Ends gone. Cut through with etched razor saw, remove gangway its glued held on with four pips. Then cut down the inside that creates a small L lip on the buffer beam top. Snip buffers off.

 

Some reprofiling of the buffer beam will be needed and about 1mm taken off and the chassis will be a nice fit into the body.

 

Intend then to add stiffening as the coach sides that will take the DC kits wobble out the sides, some TPO's after all have seven pieces per side.

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What would be nice would be if an enterprising kit manufacturer knocked out cheap underframe detailing kits for these coaches. ....

Detailing bits available from several sources:

 

Coopercraft (everything except the roof moulding is supposed to be available as spares)

Southern Pride

D.C.Kits

Comet

Masokits

 

....to name but a few.....

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My intention with my TPO build was to use parts suitable that enhance each other from a range of manufacturers.

 

Hence some of the intial tags, hopefully I will outline the reasons for my choices as I continue with the build.

 

Detailing bits available from several sources:

Coopercraft (everything except the roof moulding is supposed to be available as spares)

Southern Pride

D.C.Kits

Comet

Masokits

....to name but a few.....

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My long term worry with the DC kits sides is distortion along the lower edge, with many of the models coming in up to seven parts.

 

I have built them roof down, but shortly after a build the rooves can bow. The YMRV coach seemed ideal 48 hours ago offering a unit that holds itself together with a few clips and a long slot and tab between the bodyside and chassis. An area that in trials always left me wanting more in fit and stable strength.

 

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I have then attempted to create an L angle 1 mm x 2.5mm Evergreen strip on the bottom of the coach that does seem to brace the bottom edge, which with their fine moulding and multi part sides does leave them subject to some movement. Next up will be to add a fine strip which will act as a slot and tab to hold the chassis into the bodyside.

 

post-7587-0-81008000-1377961188_thumb.jpg

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You've maybe already done it Ian however if you keep the same end panel shape to the roof on the £3.99 version but reduce it in length by a mm each end (it's 2mm too long)   then you should have the correct Mark 1 sized roof.....

 

For me - the roof is about the only salvageable bit - but then again plenty folk know that! 

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Hi Bob,

 

I have just started pairing detail off the roof and I am very happy with its construction. Without knocking other products I would consider £3.99 a good price for the roof alone!

 

At the minute it feels like the coach ends will need a little reshaping to be a very nice fit and then I will look to adress the overhang from the ends but so far so good I think. You can see a little to much overhang in the image in the other post!

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Hi Pete,

 

The track in my case is to be donated to my step-grandsons. I CBA doing anything with it :)

 

I have had the tpo's for ages had a look at them the other week and put em back, time and a place and all that! Another fine little diversion for me!

 

If anyone needs spare wheels, buffers, bogies who knows even sides gis a shout!

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Its all falling apart...

 

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So all eight of mine are now apart. From the lessons learnt last night I will attempt and try to do each job in sequence allowing a swift-ish progression to enable all the bodies to get to a similar state.

 

They do come apart smoothly and I have encountered little issue with QC the glazing is all secured none loose and no over glueing, Maybe Hornby et al should get the factory involved to cost some jobs for them!

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Thats the end of that job...

 

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After carefully last night removing the ends in about three cuts to make sure I got a precise fit. Tonight given I knew what I was after it was one cut and a swift bend, snap and thats the end of the ends!

 

Next...

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I have tried another method of removing the box trussing.

 

post-7587-0-76309100-1377983108.jpg

 

Razor down as close as I dare to the underframe, then use a blade with about six or so passes each side. Next up a bit of a wiggle and hey presto.

 

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So far so good and no distortion what so ever.

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Happy with my destructive work, keeping all seven chassis at the same stage in some ways feels like it takes an age not really getting anywhere, but then the repetition seams to allow me the chance to tackle each stage to a similar standard.

 

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Few more hours work and will be ready to add the trussing.

 

Have to add that I am making extensive use of some fine etched razor saw blades, they are something I have had for ages but never got round to use. They work a treat in getting close in neatining up the job without marking the whole area.

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The ones pictured above come from DC kits.

 

Removing the trussing in pieces hasn't altered the strength as such. Once the trussing is glued in it gives a nice rigid unit.

 

Started attacking mine, and bearing in mind the issue of flexibility once the moulded trussing is removed I have glued the weight in place so that should keep the centre rigid.

Anyone any opinions of the best make of trussing to use, seems to be DC kits, Southern Pride and Replica as suppliers.

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