Ian Fisher Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Thank you Colin for sharing those wonderful, consistent sides! Your cutting them from a thicker material makes a lot of sense, I had forgot how hard it is even with a sharp new blade, in a well lite area to cut five thou! And at gone midnight isnt the best. I have been able to remove all the glazing allowing some ideas and hours of hmm I wonder? But I have another idea and as you say getting the curves looking right is a challenge. Going with the idea that it is easier to form an outside radius I am going to cut some Evergreen 116 0.4mm x 3.2mm and use these on the top and bottom of the frame, leaving 1mm glued to the bodyside. Once cured I would then carefully scrape, file away the unwanted extra material, allowing the sides to guide me to the inner radius. Sides and can then be added with Evergreen 112 0.4mm x 1mm. Once I am happy with there fixing I can then refit the blanked glazing, then cut and add the mid frame again from 112. Once all this is cured and going nowhere I can reduce the thickness and hopefully it will look as one. Let's see if it might work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Added in the door reinforcing strips .25 x .5mm strip. The roller doors on the other side are moments away from being superglued in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Thank you Colin for sharing those wonderful, consistent sides! Your cutting them from a thicker material makes a lot of sense, I had forgot how hard it is even with a sharp new blade, in a well lite area to cut five thou! And at gone midnight isnt the best. I have been able to remove all the glazing allowing some ideas and hours of hmm I wonder? But I have another idea and as you say getting the curves looking right is a challenge. Going with the idea that it is easier to form an outside radius I am going to cut some Evergreen 116 0.4mm x 3.2mm and use these on the top and bottom of the frame, leaving 1mm glued to the bodyside. Once cured I would then carefully scrape, file away the unwanted extra material, allowing the sides to guide me to the inner radius. Sides and can then be added with Evergreen 112 0.4mm x 1mm. Once I am happy with there fixing I can then refit the blanked glazing, then cut and add the mid frame again from 112. Once all this is cured and going nowhere I can reduce the thickness and hopefully it will look as one. 1380848389257.jpg Let's see if it might work. Hi Ian, I would still treat the frames as simple ovals rather than trying to assemble them from several pieces. It's your model, so do what you think is achievable for you. How many did you need by the way? Four? I could knock out a few for you if you really get stuck. I am presuming these frames are to standard Mk1 dimensions (which I have somewhere!) All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Next up some simple plating, unlike others in the fleet my vehicle looks like it was a rush job! No nice new plated sides for 762. So time to dig out the 5 thou again and two pieces 6mm x 11mm with the edges just feathered, then deburr the cut edge. Apply a little solvent and press home the plate. Next up is the lower body edge plate, fitted after corrosion repairs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Now those corrosion repairs. Having thought how to replicate these. I have tried scribing a line, glueing some strip on then reducing its thickness. My approach, mark out and cut some electrical tape. Material ready glued just take your time to lay it on. A sharp new blade is essential. The strip is used as a sizing aid easier to use a piece of 1.5mm strip than all that nasty measuring and marking! I think it should result in a subtle understated detail that doesnt scream that the detail has actually been added. I would like to thank Southern Pride for the inspiration, they include vinyl frames in their later mark one and mark two kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 Hi Colin, I think I will have a go at one see if its workable from parts, if not I will have a go from sheet as you suggest if they turn out substandard I would love some knocked out by your good self! The inner apperture of the window is 9mm (w) x 13mm (d) I assumed a frame of 1mm, the mid bar being 4mm down from the top inner measurement. Hi Ian,I would still treat the frames as simple ovals rather than trying to assemble them from several pieces. It's your model, so do what you think is achievable for you.How many did you need by the way? Four? I could knock out a few for you if you really get stuck. I am presuming these frames are to standard Mk1 dimensions (which I have somewhere!)All the best,Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 How easy is it to rewheel a Bachmann bogie for something finer? Oh it is fraught with technicalities. You ease out the old wheel, then you pop the new axle in (these are Gibson - EM society) give the new axle a pinch with the bogie then see how it turns, if there is any binding check the inside of the bogie for any flash. You also have the option of using a truck tuner to neaten the bearing. Bachmann wheelset on the left, Gibson on the right. I always find it easier to make sure one pinpoint is home before attempting to get the other in, it becomes too tight then. That is then the problem of possible distortion or damage to the wheelset or bogie frame. Two EM Commonwealth Bogies ready for a much needed mucking up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Me again Ian. I have done something similar on Hornby bogies using a home-made truck-tuner of sorts. This involved drilling out the axle holes to a depth which allowed Romford shoulderless brass bearings to be fitted. What that depth would be with Bachmann bogies would have to be calculated of course. I have read that the Bachmann bogies are made of a plastic which, once run for a while, the wheels become less free-running. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 I can happily report that my ABS catalogue 'b' has arrived today, edition 9 landed on our doorstep this morning. The listing contains many really useful parts that can and will be combined in this build. An order will be sent off soon for a stash of bits and bobs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 The 1st and 11th vehicles in TPO8 were PCV's made by Replica, these vehicles arent going to go under the knife just yet! Bought on their release via Rail Express? The model has a few areas which will benefit from the work going on with other vehicles in the rake. Currently I am thinking better buffers. B5 bogies a direct swap from Replica. Thinner handrail on cab fronts Opening out the wipacs Trussing ( possibly the 247 shown up the thread?) New gangway from dimensions gleamed from a spare Hurst etch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Back to vehicle 10. And another attempt at the window frames. I reacquainted myself with a cutter purchased many years ago from Micromark (when their bits still seemed affordable!) This has been used to roughly chop out some unwanted material. I intend to use poly cement, then a little capillary dribble of plasticweld. Once these have set I will remove the rest of the unwanted 5 thou. Then a nice 1mm strip thinned in depth will be glued in place. Well they are glued in and given a few drops of plastic weld, lets see how these hold up in the next day or so. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 The first frame almost neatened, not 100% happy but they just need some paint on them. They are after all not the neatest looking job on the prototype. Considering they were supposed to carry more valuable items, the as a small fleet didnt seem to be afforded the standard of finnish afforded to the NKA fleet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 Air braking of the super guvs seems to be a bit random in how and what was fitted. It would seem the air resovoir tank (Southern Pride) and Westinghouse distributor (Inter-City) can be located in a few locations but always seemed to be paired together. The only other castings to add will be the actuating cylinders. The problem I have is how is this all connected up? It would seem to have two pipe runs (.45 brass? ) running parallel but where does this all connect to the resovoir tank and the actuating cylinders? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 The first frame almost neatened, not 100% happy but they just need some paint on them. They are after all not the neatest looking job on the prototype. Considering they were supposed to carry more valuable items, the as a small fleet didnt seem to be afforded the standard of finnish afforded to the NKA fleet. 1381340295731.jpg Hi Ian, If that is all the frames amount to, I would be more than happy to bash four of them out for you. PM me with the dimensions should you want some. Trying to fettle the frames down to size when already fitted to the coach side is an heroic act, but best done flat on the mat, so to speak! All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 PM sent! And thank you Colin. My next bits to tackle are the visible bits and linkages of the brake gear. Just having a right old good look around to see if I can suss what should go where. I came across some useful images on http://www.djparkins.com/acatalog/Modern_Motive_Power.html which makes more sense of what goes roughly where, I say roughly as some of the bits I dont think will be visible under normal operating, so I am aiming to include some of the detail, just dont expect it to link to anything! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 First bit of the bracket glued in this is four bits of .4mm x 1mm strip Another two bits added of four. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 The fine brake rod used by Bachmann is a huge plus, it was removed on mine to aid the fitting of the airbrake actuating cylinder and the pull rods from the handwheel. These parts will come Southern Pride and Masokits etchs. These will added over the coming hours. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 1381508100461.jpg The fine brake rod used by Bachmann is a huge plus, it was removed on mine to aid the fitting of the airbrake actuating cylinder and the pull rods from the handwheel. These parts will come Southern Pride and Masokits etchs. These will added over the coming hours. Looking good Ian. Frames in the post tomorrow! All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Awwww Colin, I was going to make out id sweated blood n tiers over them! Thanks though, hope the privatised RM come up with the goods soon! The body is almost ready for primer!! The attention can then turn the monotony of the 63' stock. Thank your written and physical contribution in this project it is very much appreciated and welcome. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 Had a delivery just a wet brown envelope! Mind you it is battering down still as I type. Thankfully everything within it arrived in very fine order. Thank you Colin Parks for these, once these are on and thinned in a day or two the body is now virtually carving, cutting free! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 Back to the POS and POT stock I have spent a few minutes marking up and drilling this little jig. So this will be one a series of jigs to get the RCH style cables located in the same place. These will be marked up then drilled 1.5mm, then opened out to the 2.4mm backing piece. The opposite side becomes the left hand drilling template. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 NOA - I felt it best to fill the windows flush to allow Colin's frame a level base to sit on. So tonight I have cut and glued in place some 30 thou card. The windows although well moulded didnt quite sit flush. Glued in with plastic weld I have then flooded the back with a few drops of superglue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 I need to build some window frames for my YMRV mk1s hopefully then the sides will look more correct, still unsure if the supplied glazing or Replica glazing is correct size though NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Hi Nick, The window apertures aren't bad size wise compared to drawings and other mark one models, now I know that doesnt mean they are correct. The toilet window mid bar needs dropping down to match the rest of the windows. Frames wise you have vinyl ones from Southern pride, which can be longwinded to do a side. Or I beleive PH Designs maybe looking to produce etched versions. I need to build some window frames for my YMRV mk1s hopefully then the sides will look more correct, still unsure if the supplied glazing or Replica glazing is correct size though NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 Almost ready for those new frames, everything has dried well. The back of the replaced window has a slight chamfer on it, hopefully to allow a little resovoir of glue to sit in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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