Down Ampney Layout Build & Workshop Thread (For All Things 7mm FS & 0-16.5)

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Ah, I see you bit the bullet on the 08 too

Just like me! I will be weathering, re-numbering etc too

Looks at home on Down Ampney

Hope to catch up & grab a coffee at Bristol CME

Happy new year

Hi Marc,

 

Great to hear from you-even better to hear that youve purchased another 08, looking forward to seeing how you fettle yours, your brass version is very nicely done.

 

Hoping to get to Brizzle, several from RMW have said theyre going, it would be really good to meet up.

 

A peaceful and happy New Year to you and yours.

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME.

Edited January 6, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All 

 

A quick update, my partner has been pretty poorly of late and we have also battled the all too numerous viruses so model-making had tp be put on hold.

 

The Brake sides are awaiting paint stripping yet it's not been ideal weather to get out into the garage to do so, plus a failed starter motor on one of the cars threw us a curved ball, so in the interim I have been buying bits and bobs to help complete various projects. I try to get stuff as I need it, if I can, so that kits etc are complete before I start and with certain model shops closing and, according to retail Reps, 6 model shops a month closing in the UK, its a case of get it whilst you can and/or use it or loose it. Still have a little way to go but nearly everything is here to progress the layout and individual projects.

 

I am still progressing RC matters and awaiting some news on those.

 

I picked up a couple of Dapol 12T Fitted vans - very nice they are too. They need lantern irons, the instanters I have and maybe new 'W' Iron Tie-Bars as they are very thin, which raises an issue in terms of cosmetics and robustness. A  word of wisdom to the wise, DONT take the roofs off!   Why? The sides are very bowed and getting the roof back on is like trying to herd cats!       I usually add weight and foam/cotton wool - inside a van - so as to sound deaden and then glue the roof on, if I try gluing the roofs on these on, then I think that we will end up in a right mess  - unless I can clean-up/distress the inner edges around the roof and van sides and then run some solvent down inside (capillary action).

 

Had a quick chat with Howard and Rod at Brizzle (lovely to see you fellas) - we arrived a bit late and it was touch and go whether or not I could get there - one friend had also dropped out with 'flu, so 'twas just dad and me. Must have missed Marc though, caught up with one or two others, got side tracked by the nice Dapol Jinty and enjoyed looking at some nice items on the Buzz Models stand including a test 3D print of  a Class 73.

 

I am enjoying some of the superb model-making on RMW and also reading a couple of mags when I get 5 mins here and there    .

 

So that's about it for now, oh I did manage to purchase some paint for resprays of certain models, so now its all down to free time and better weather (its quite an expensive challenge to try and obtain paint - legitimately - via mail order these days).

 

ATVB, photos to follow next time hopefully!

 

CME

Edited January 28, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All,

 

I finally had some time for tidying up and some thoughts on fettling the Dapol vans - my other half is on her fourth consecutive infection/virus, due to her two recentish Ops, so things have been challenging.

 

I really like my Dapol Vans - and I am looking forward to later releases - they run well too, yet, compared to the 'OO' fraternity I cannot help but feel a little short changed though, I have discovered that they have such things as legible builders plates etc etc etc...adds to cost I know, yet if such can be done in 4mm (and on some of the Heljan Tanks et al)?

 

So here is a little list of what I shall need to do so as to get my vans to roll;

 

1) Add lantern brackets to the correct pattern;

 

2) Add Instanters;

 

3) Add destination/chalking plate to each end (most, if not all, of the Dia 1/208s seemed to have had them), other detail is lacking on the buffer beams but apart from lantern brackets and destination boards I shall leave it at that;

 

4) Maybe cut off and replace the 'W' Iron Tie-Bars as they are thin-vulnerable-and aesthetically they dont look robust enough;

 

5) Add magnetised TL couplings - I am hoping that the coupling pocket, with or without cover, will help me set the height - if I am lucky;

 

6) Add a little more weight and cotton-wool/sound deadening - if I can wrangle to roofs back on!

 

Then there will be the obligatory weathering, chalk-marks, old labels etc etc...

 

Photos of this to follow soon.

 

Thanks for looking, sorry I have been so slow this winter.

 

Kindest regards to all,

 

CME

Edited February 9, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Barnaby]

Slow but sure gets the job done CME.

 

You mention something in your list that has never occurred to me before, cotton-wool sound deadening.

Can you give some more information on that please. 

 

Keep up your good and interesting work.

 

Best.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Slow but sure gets the job done CME.

 

You mention something in your list that has never occurred to me before, cotton-wool sound deadening.

Can you give some more information on that please. 

 

Keep up your good and interesting work.

 

Best.

Hi Baranby,

 

Slow - glacially slow in my case  

 

The sound deadening works quite well (I dislike the plastic hollow/drumming that can be apparent on 7mm vans when running - just a pet hate of mine, not sure why    ) using cotton wool, or soft foam, it takes a bit of experimentation, some Vans are better with foam and some with cotton wool. I have a couple of detailed Skytrex vans which I have reworked and they seem better suited to foam and my Parkside builds seem okay with cotton-wool within. Easy to do, add weight (make sure such is belt and braces secured so as to cater for sod's law of it coming loose with a glued on roofs thus stopping re-access!    ) to Van floor, then cut foam to shape/or ram in cotton wool and replace roof (I endeavour to glue most roofs on, but always pick up goods vehicles by their buffers just to be safe - BTW buffers are very securely solvent welded on).

 

Hope that helps.

 

ATVB

 

CME

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All,

 

Some un-weathered (naked) eye candy <steady!>  

 

Just to add a splash of colour, here are some recent and not quite so recent RTR purchases as part of Christmas and Birthday presents etc. Some of the stock ie the RCH 7 Planks, is for the backdated version of Down Ampney and the Terrier et al. All looking a little incongruous and way too clean, I prefer mine dirty  <quite at the back>, Im talking wagon weathering here!      

 

More on modifying Dapol Vans at a later date, I have started fettling them, so photos to follow soonish I hope.

 

ATVB

 

CME

 

Photographs are the copyright o the Author/Photographer of this Post 2014-2017 etc

Edited February 23, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Photos of the areas for attention on the Dapol 12T vans

 

ATVB

 

CME

 

Photographs are the copyright o the Author/Photographer of this Post 2007-2017 etc

[Simond]

Looking at your real corrugated end van photo there, I guess what we want is the plastic moulding itself to be in a pale grey weathered wood shade, so that the paint can get abraded, scratched and gouged, in order to show the wood underneath. By contrast, logically, the steel parts should be moulded in a dark brown "old rust" coloured plastic, so removal of paint lets that grin through.

 

Best

Simon

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Looking at your real corrugated end van photo there, I guess what we want is the plastic moulding itself to be in a pale grey weathered wood shade, so that the paint can get abraded, scratched and gouged, in order to show the wood underneath. By contrast, logically, the steel parts should be moulded in a dark brown "old rust" coloured plastic, so removal of paint lets that grin through.

Best

Simon

Hi Simon,

 

Great ideas/observations!

 

....Sounds like how I paint kits to start with-the peeling paint and split wood effect on my PSD Pillbox/Dog Kennel springs to mind.

 

There is a 'but', it all, depends on what era one is modelling-AFAICT. At the end of steam these vans ended up nigh on black (dark sooty grey with a bluish tinge and faded roofs were common place), the diesel era saw them moderately cleaner for longer after refurbs. The ends and bracing ended up just a mass of rust and a dirt trap. The van in the photo is a preserved one, it didnt take long to start deteriorating again either. Vans that had been in traffic-eg from diesel era-when laid up in sidings for a few weeks would wash (in the rain) a bit cleaner and then bleach with peeling paint-I believe some of the diesel (and maybe steam) clag and soot wouldnt have been easy to 'wash' off, but a chemical reaction removed some of the grot and also attacked/bleached the paintwork-a bit like acid rain (Im sure that where vans were parked up also contributed to these reactions too).

 

Re 'BR RED' (Bauxite), these earlier vans came in this early orange hue-the paint was awful quality and failed quickly, thus letting in the weather. In latter years BR switched to 'Larne Quality' bauxite a brown derived from the LMS version of such, which was better quality, lasting better.

 

I shall weather mine in accord with late 1960s weathering-using photos of the prototype as a reference point, but perhaps a little cleaner than some of my previous efforts.

 

Kindest regards,

 

M.

[Simond]

I look forward to seeing them weathered up. I guess the kit makers are trying to be helpful, moulding them in a "near finished colour" material, it certainly cuts down on the undercoat. But when I see the PD guys at Kettering, I'll suggest to them that they moulding in a colour similar to the weathered state of the prototype material.

 

It probably won't be economic, or practical, but they'll be able to judge.

 

Best

Simon

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I look forward to seeing them weathered up. I guess the kit makers are trying to be helpful, moulding them in a "near finished colour" material, it certainly cuts down on the undercoat. But when I see the PD guys at Kettering, I'll suggest to them that they moulding in a colour similar to the weathered state of the prototype material.

It probably won't be economic, or practical, but they'll be able to judge.

Best

Simon

Hi Simon,

 

Thanks-always apprehensive about weathering models, no matter that Ive been doing it for 40+years, some artists tell me that they feel the same for every painting they start too-not that Im an artist, but I understand how they feel. Suffice to say the 12T vans were still pretty grotty in the 1960s & 1970s, so I shall follow that lead, but leave a bit of bauxite showing through (although 'COND' vans in the early 1970s, w/o a repaint since being built, almost went black, with peeling paint-quite remarkable really).

 

I have painted wagon kits, w/o a primer/undercoat, but that can be fraught without a good clean-I endeavour, when I remember, to clean sprues of parts before I start assembly, then again when assembled and prior to painting-I think a blat of primer provides a good key, especially on abs parts, such as those supplied with PD kits. So with eg. a PD 16T Mineral I prime with Halfords white-plastic-primer in preparation for a light blue/white/grey (home mixed) livery for the body, the underframes are painted brown/black in a similar-home spun-way. For real damage the sides have been hammered into dents whilst on the sprue/in the flat, then, after primer, an undercoat (over dented areas) of various rust hues is applied-with mask applied atop before the blue/grey topcoat....

 

I hope to see PD in a few months too-your idea is a good one, as you say whether or not such is economic across the range or not is for them to decide. Like many of our suppliers the fellows there are of an age whereby they may be considering retirement soon.

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME

Edited February 24, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All,

 

My ten minute model-making strategy rolls on....

 

Here are the modifications that I have made to date on the 12T Dapol vans - apologies re the photos, they are quick snaps and I temporarily blackened out the parts so as to see what they looked like in black, but I am sure that you will get the general idea (even if everything looks a little wonky - I can assure everyone that all my gluing is four square and true ).

 

The drop down pipes and hoses are now added (the originals bugged me as they were just representations/wrong- but they will be ideal for my Brake Tenders, I carefully hacked them off with Xuron cutters!), along with lantern/lamp brackets/irons. I have decided not to add the CPL Instanters (at this time) as I shall be adding my auto-couplings instead (some may ask why bother super detailing the ends then? I personally think that the vans look better for this detail and it helps also disguise the auto-couplings too. If I had just a roundy, roundy layout then I would have used the Pendon/Tony Wright coupling system for such, but as Down Ampney is a BLT with a bit of roundy roundy, I have to use auto-couplings, for the sake of my sanity - I could have placed the vans in 'cuts' but chose to treat them as individual vehicles as far as couplings are concerned, couplings being a perennial problem for many a railway modeller. I also haven't - yet - replaced the 'W' Iron Tie-Bars (life's too short ), even though to my eye they look too thin and are quite fragile, if they break then I shall replace them - how slapdash of me not to do such up front! I have added home-made representations of the chalking/destination boards that most of the Dia 1/208s seem to be fitted with. All a bit fiddly but easyish work if performed in the correct sequence (note to self; use specs and the next strength up of magnifier - middle age eh!).

 

 

Also re. the anomaly to the ends of the buffer-beams/head-stocks, they taper inwards and do not have the correct RSJ type profile (when viewed side-on) at the ends, with the said tapered profile, forming up the correct face-on detail in Plastistruct/Evergreen et al would have been a chore. So again I experimented, and with some black permi-marker (these sections were in BR Red/Bauxite - which only served to accentuate the problem) daubed atop has made the issue all but invisible. I am wondering if this strange shaping of the moulding is something to do with mould release/the manufacturing process?

 

The next job is to weather them of course.

 

ATVB and thanks for looking.

 

CME

 

Photographs are the copyright of the photographer/author of this Post, all rights are reservaered 2017etc

Edited March 7, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi everyone,

 

Apologies for lack of Posts/updates.

 

Some progress has been made on two of the outside plastic baseboards, both quite bespoke and both key datum points so as to get the full circuit link boards right. In addition some of this work is, for us, experimental. Photos to follow.

 

I have been, when time permits, wagon worrying (fettling) in a small batches, detail-weathering Lionheart RCH planked wagons (which has taken quite a lot of careful work), vans and 16T minerals. When the bodies are weathered to a certain stage I will then weather the underframes and dust over the bodies with the same mix. Photos to follow.

 

I have also been fettling switches and crossings for garden boards aswell as starting to get bits together for my first RC loco. Sadly I dont think that RC will work in all of my locos due to battery anomalies.

 

I have also started to collect parts so as to restore my classic, 37 years old, RC 1/10 scale off road car....which has been a fun sideline and breather from the rigours of 7mm modelling.

 

Theres been a lot of help and support on the Dapol 08 Thread and thats been really great to see, really special heart-warming stuff, and great fun too.

 

Kindest regards to all,

 

CME.

Edited May 9, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi all,

 

Some initial thoughts on the 'plastic-baseboards'.

 

The first board is a hybrid, Foamlux (exterior quality foamcore board) with a tanalised, treated timber frame (SBR left to soak in then Wickes wax impregnated fence/shed proofer applied atop). The boards are then over-painted with my magic matt black paint. Yet to be topped off with mineralised roofing felt.

 

The board has 1m/3ft post centres - yet Im wondering if an additional centre post might help - its secured to outer garage wall (as we head into the garage) with brackets and multipurpose adhesives and then screwed to the tunnel mouth and plastic outer frame. First impressions? Pretty good, but more give/spring than a standard wooden/ply board, which, with 1m/3ft centres is very sturdy. But even wth a 2-3kg loco going over it the board wont budge-we hope!

 

The second board, which is part of the connecting loop, is all PVCu or is that UPVC?.....barge and soffit boards, which have a foam core for accepting pins and tacks. Weve also used the Filcris cross battens which are very strong, but the boards-which have yet to have the sides applied, that will hopefully provide support and tie the whole thing together-are very flimsy at this stage. This is a little disconcerting, yet as I mention, rather like an aircraft wing, the boards wont be strong until complete-then we will see. I hope we havent wasted time and money as this is all a little experimental and relatively cost effective so if it doesnt come good, it wont be the end of the world - just bu$$erance. If it does come good then a cost effective, rot free, baseboard will be had.

 

Photos soon...rain stops play.

 

ATVB,

 

CME.

[Barnaby]

Sounds very interesting for outdoor "keep flat" the track way.

I suspect in them selves they will rely on the support structure to keep them flat and level which then could indicate why bother.

 

That sounds a bit harsh, just thinking it through.

What I'm getting at CME is if you need to have a super flat and level support system what advantage will the boards you're testing give.  Just wondering, will your supports allow for adjustment of the track bed height.

 

I think we need the photos when the sun lets you play again.

 

Success with your test pieces.

 

Best

Edited May 12, 2017 by Barnaby

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Barnaby,

 

Thanks for your Post and your thoughts-much appreciated.

 

There is room for adjustment in the building of the new boards, but not when theyre affixed. Could do with such on the lowest section (wooden boards), due to them being sucked downwards into the clay in the winter months, but as theyre so close to the ground any adjustment couldnt be accessed anyway.

 

The plastic boards being levelled, straight and true? Hopefully all will come good, the material needs to be allowed some expansion and contraction though. Its a basic ladder section construction, but as we are adjoining two sides of the layout, the tops-at the ends- have been added first so as to achieve alignment/levelled between new and old(er) boards, normally the stronger ladder section would be in place first and thus much stronger.

 

The hybrid board is built like the wooden boards but with a Foamlux top. When using multi-layer, good quality ply, one gets lots of extra strength from such....there is no ply in Foamlux so a few extra galv brackets are required so as to achieve rigidety.

 

Only time will tell how the three types of board will perform. I will pre drill/add wires to the underside of plastic boards. I shall have to drill through the wooden boards-with the inherant challenges for rotting that faces-to wire for DCC (some risk just jumper wires but that risks runaways and places resistance on the fishplates and effectively 'wears' the fishplates). I have a plan though. Drill holes, treat with SBR, push wire through, seal with silicone or similar, sprinkle atop some chick-grit and flood with my-thinned-magic paint (which also help to seal).

 

I dont think that I will bother ballasting proper as that wont allow for movement (the counter arguement is that it stops track movement but one cant beat mother nature!), using mineralised roofing felt also allows for quick clear up of leaves and bird muck too, as well as marginally quicker track cleaning. As Ive said before if battery tech were better/more sorted Id be running all RC and then lots of potential problems just vanish.

 

All of this work is becoming tedious in the extreme, but without decent boards, the track and stock is a waste of time and money.

 

I write chapter and verse on this-tedious aspect of the hobby-so that those following on have a fighting chance of getting it right first time. Unscrupulous timber suppliers never gave me that opportunity-hence experimenting with plastic boards.

 

Thoughts on longevity etc;-

 

* Plastic boards wont rot but may move more/not as strong/warp?;

* Wooden boards are NOW strong, but they will, eventually, rot;

* Metal Hammerited posts are easy to obtain/construct but will rust

* Galv posts will outlast the above but are harder to source.

 

I think that covers it all-photos to follow when time and weather permit.

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME.

Edited May 13, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Everyone,

 

Sorry still no photos of the baseboards or the Lionheart and Dapol stock, nearly all fettled with weathering being added, theyre to follow (I promise).

 

Ive been fettling Switches and Crosses again and working out how to wire them up on the bench with the minimum of bended knee soldering in the garden (with a gas iron), I think that I have come up with a way-more on that another time.

 

So some rough, mobile-phone, photos of the S&Cs thus far;-

 

The FIRST PHOTO, shows the modified Peco point at the bottom and the part modified one at the top but with the original 'Frog'/'V'.

 

The SECOND PHOTO is a close up of the modified 'V'.

 

Kind regards to all,

 

CME

 

Photographs are the copyright of the author of this Post/photographer 2017.

Edited May 30, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

And just a fun composition (to spur me on)

 

Photograph is the copyright of the author of this Post/photographer 2017

[Barnaby]

I like the point work improvement CME it looks spot on.

I'm afraid I struggle to manage my time and apply myself in a manner the benefits my layout build.  I seem to spend way too much time re-dreaming what I should do, still the beer mat sketching is part of the hobby.

Another problem I have is to stop doing something before completion and start some thing else, then have to spend time recapping to get back to where I was.

 

Like just now stop layout building and start roof insulation.

 

I look forward to your promised photos on the track bed.

 

Best

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I like the point work improvement CME it looks spot on.

I'm afraid I struggle to manage my time and apply myself in a manner the benefits my layout build. I seem to spend way too much time re-dreaming what I should do, still the beer mat sketching is part of the hobby.

Another problem I have is to stop doing something before completion and start some thing else, then have to spend time recapping to get back to where I was.

 

Like just now stop layout building and start roof insulation.

 

I look forward to your promised photos on the track bed.

 

Best

Hi Barnaby,

 

Thanks for the kind words and Post-much appreciated.

 

I thought tht you were describing me/my layout for a moment LOL!

 

I fully understand what you are saying, one has prioritise and life comes first (or gets in the way). I endeavour to have 'packages' of work and thus several things on the go at the same time, as part of the over all, so as to keep the project moving forward. Weather plays its part in terms of garden rly construction and painting too. Sometimes certain models are done, for fun, as the mood takes me, sometimes models have to be put to one side, awaiting parts (saving up for such or waiting on suppliers), or further info on detail/history/livery etc.

 

As we tend to be 'doers' in 7mm, we often have lots of projects on the go. I am a good way through train/stock building too-although coaches are still a bit of a chore.

 

So I empathise with you-track, baseboards etc are less glamerous but need completion if Im ever to play trains.

 

Then there is the mundane, things like property maintenance, whether DIY (ie 10 minute jobs that take 3 days inc trips to the DIY store) or organising 'trades' et al.

 

Ive started taking notes if (when) I have put a project down, ie where Ive got to, where the extra, super detail parts are stored, historical refs, books/mags page numbers etc etc. That gives me a fighting chance of a decent re start. Oh how I envy those modellers with imaculate, fully kitted out, workshops and an imaculate MO when it comes to their work. 90% of my work is at the kitchen table and the challenges that entails.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

Edited May 31, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All,

 

I have been endeavouring to Post photos from my mobile, yet RMW just keeps throwing me out - I have contacted the Moderators for tech support a couple of times, but as yet no reply.

 

The photos are on my phone and I am pretty much confined to the bedroom/bed after a couple of emergency operations and healing is going very slowly - plenty of time to catch up on model railway DVDs, reading etc etc and hopefully, in the not too, distant future, some model-making. Spanner thrown in works springs to mind, but onwards and upwards as there are always others worse off.

 

Photos to follow soon- I hope -  when I get some tech support.

 

Kindest regards to all,

 

CME.

[daifly]

I'm sure there are others that would try to help but need slightly better diagnostic info than "RMW just keeps throwing me out".

 

If you explain the problem, maybe we can help to find a solution.

 

Dave

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I'm sure there are others that would try to help but need slightly better diagnostic info than "RMW just keeps throwing me out".

 

If you explain the problem, maybe we can help to find a solution.

 

Dave

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for getting in touch.

 

Here's an example:- I enter the text (as I am doing here) and then, in 'Reply With Attachments', I endeavour to upload the photos from my mobile's 'Gallery' only then for RMW to throw me out (sorry no better explanation as the whole thing just crashes - no text, no photos and no 'Reply to this topic' and thus back to square one). I did wonder, if, perhaps, as with Apps., such as Whatsapp, I should start from Gallery click on the photo upload it and add the text, but that didnt work either (I didnt think that it would). This is via 3G or 4G and coverage is very good and thus works on other sites and Apps.

 

I hope that helps clarify a little further, it also does it in PMs - I tried to help a member out with a question that he had, by replying using text and photos, yet RMW wouldnt let me Post the photos and the same thing happened again.

 

Kindest regards, with many thanks in anticipation.

 

CME

[daifly]

So here's a test from my iPhone with a photo attachment

Dave

[daifly]

CME

You seem to invariably reply using the 'Reply quoting this post' option which often means that the post becomes huge with photos etc. being unnecessarily attached again. I just used the "Reply to this topic' option using the Full version of RMWeb rather than the Mobile version. I wrote the text, chose the file from my photo album on the iPhone, attached the file and added it to the post before hitting Add Reply.

In my case it has worked fine. What type of phone are you using?

Dave