A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[Londontram]

 

Some time ago I drew up some inserts for Mansell wheels but I never got around to cutting them out. Seeing a friend's recent additions to the backs of Slaters wheels on another forum, brought them to mind again. 

 

While at Telford, the tight Yorkshireman instinct made me take advantage of Haywood Railway's offer of two axles of coach wheels inc bearings for £5. 00 - I bought quite a few...

 

Finding myself in need of some Mansell wheels for some scratch build projects (more of that later) I revisited the drawings to amend them to suit the Haywood wheel dimensions and cut them out from 10 thou sheet. Initially I wondered if they would be deep enough and whether I might need a blank spacer but as it turns out they were perfect.

 

 

 

Very impressive Rob, could I ask that as you cut them on 10 thou plasticard what blade setting did you use to get the scored segment lines on the lower layer of plasticard? Also its got to be said Rob that's real dedication to the hobby to do the rear faces of the wheels, being the lazy git I am I wouldn't have bothered I'm afraid.

[MikeTrice]

I am sure Rob will answer in due course. Use the dodge of setting the blade just under the thickness and on a scrap of styrene against a self healing mat plunge it through and drag to the side. If the blade has not cut through wind it out a little and repeat the test until you get a clean cut all the way through. That will give you the blade depth for a full cut which will run at a thickness setting of 33 and a speed of 5 and double cut. So far that has always cut all the way through for my 10 thou styrene work. For the score lines use half the blade depth but keep everything else the same.

[Rob Pulham]

Very impressive Rob, could I ask that as you cut them on 10 thou plasticard what blade setting did you use to get the scored segment lines on the lower layer of plasticard? Also its got to be said Rob that's real dedication to the hobby to do the rear faces of the wheels, being the lazy git I am I wouldn't have bothered I'm afraid.

Cheers, 

 

Unlike Mike I go a bit slower than 5.

I use speed setting 1 for all my cutting and to score the 10 thou I used a cut setting of 1 and pressure 33.

 

I then turned off the lines to be scored and cut again on blade setting 2 and pressure 25.

 

And lastly I cut on blade setting 3 and pressure 33 to finish cutting through. I find this cuts through almost all apart from if there is a bit where the mat isn't quite as sticky and I may have to snap out a tiny bit of a part

[MikeTrice]

I used to do all my cutting with a speed of 1 however after a number of cuts took ages to produce, changed to 5 with no apparent loss of accuracy. Interestingly part of the spped issue is the time it takes the cutter to raise and lower the blade. For very small intricate cuts changing the speed has little effect. Having set the blade depth correctly (the depth setting in the software has no impact on the actual blade and is only there as a suggestion for the blade setting) I have repeatedly cut all the way through 10 thou with a single pass at 33 pressure and double cut.

[meurglys3]

Has anyone used the "deep cut blade"? I saw this option in the cutting menu but obviously you have to buy one.
I'm wondering if this would help with cutting styrene, or would the drag from the material be too much?

 

 

[PaulCheffus]

Has anyone used the "deep cut blade"? I saw this option in the cutting menu but obviously you have to buy one.

I'm wondering if this would help with cutting styrene, or would the drag from the material be too much?

Hi

 

I have one but as yet I've not tried it. Hopefully something I might get around to over Christmas.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Rob Pulham]

I used to do all my cutting with a speed of 1 however after a number of cuts took ages to produce, changed to 5 with no apparent loss of accuracy. Interestingly part of the spped issue is the time it takes the cutter to raise and lower the blade. For very small intricate cuts changing the speed has little effect. Having set the blade depth correctly (the depth setting in the software has no impact on the actual blade and is only there as a suggestion for the blade setting) I have repeatedly cut all the way through 10 thou with a single pass at 33 pressure and double cut.

 

Hi Mike,

 

I gave speed setting 5 a go and the only thing that it made a difference on was some crown plates that I was cutting which it tended to cut across the curves on every thing else including some stars for the sole bars of Vacuum fitted vehicles turned out excellent.

 

 

 

They need a little swarf brushing off but they have cut out superb - point to point they are only 2.5mm across

[Londontram]

I tend not to post on this forum now for various reasons but I thought being a somewhat more appreciative audience I thought I'd share these few with you. All have been drawn on Inkscape and cut on the Silhouette.

The first is a Caledonian diagram 18 well wagon one of three built around 1900 for the principle purpose of carrying propellers.

The wagon and below one of the few original pictures that excist of the original

A view of the well wagon well showing the exposed axles as on the original dictating the need to build the axle guards as part of the solebars, etched W irons being unsuitable for use on this.

A final picture of the well wagon with the load fixed and chained in place

 

Still at this stage being build a 1910 period diagram 67 4 wheel box van and the extended 6 wheel diagram 80 both being tested for height on there W irons.

The diagram 67 box van the Caledonian standard box van

An early 1903 pattern with inside frame diagram 67 van left and a pre diagram book 6 ton box van dating from about 1883 this has a roof hatch and a door on one side only

A Caledonian diagram 60 steel/rail carrying wagon and behind it the Caledonian diagram 12 empty barrel wagon

Finally a diagram 84 refrigerator (Chuck the ice through the roof hatch) van this time in NPCS brown as these were designed to run with passenger trains.

   Sorry there's so many pictures, Steve

Edited December 5, 2016 by Londontram

[meurglys3]

Great work!

Are the parts cut from styrene? I'm still having trouble getting my Cameo 3 to cut even 10 thou styrene, even with a brand new blade and using the settings suggested on here. Any tips?
Carry on Steve, you're doing a great job. Nils bastardus carborundum! (don't let the b******s grind you down!)

 

Pete

[Londontram]

Thank you Pete all the parts were cut with a standard blade that came with the Silhouette set at blade depth 6 with a pressure of 33 and a speed of one, I always go for a double cut as well and just leave it to get on with it.

 

      It cuts completely through the 10 thou and heavily scores the 20 thou which just snaps, some small sections on the 20 thou I cut with a steel rule and a scalpel using the cut lines and one or sometimes two passes is usually enough to cut them out.

 

    All the main bodies are cut on 20 thou and I just keep the cutting and scoring depth the same for both, all main sides and ends are doubled up with blank sections making the bodies 40 thou and sections like the out side framing are cut on 10 thou and again doubled up to make them 20 thou thick. There are exceptions like the empty barrel wagon which in the end was made up of 7 layers of 10 thou plasticard to get the right feel and look to the depth of the sides and ends each layer glued to the next then left for 24 hours under two class table mats with a heavy weight on the top.

[meurglys3]

Cheers Steve, I will keep trying using those settings, no doubt I will get there in the end.

 

After long periods of trial and error with styrene, I thought I needed to actually build something before I lost the will to live, so I drew up a (freelance) loco inspection platform and cut it from white card, the pieces then laminated using spray mount and pva.

It's by no means as fine as a brass kit, but those are, for the time being, beyond my skill level.

What I like about this is I can make more, I might even make one for the full length of my depot, and it costs pennies and is actually quite easy and fun to assemble now that I have got the parts the right sizes to fit with each other.

Also I think I have finally figured out how to do steps without them constantly falling to bits!

(Waiting for the glue to dry while I type this.....)

Pete

[MikeTrice]

I tend not to post on this forum now for various reasons but I thought being a somewhat more appreciative audience I thought I'd share these few with you.

I, for one, are glad you did.

[MikeTrice]

Great work!

Are the parts cut from styrene? I'm still having trouble getting my Cameo 3 to cut even 10 thou styrene, even with a brand new blade and using the settings suggested on here. Any tips?

Carry on Steve, you're doing a great job. Nils bastardus carborundum! (don't let the b******s grind you down!)

 

Pete

If you take the blade and set the depth then, by hand, push it through a scrap of the 10 thou styrene and drag to the side, does it cut all the way through? If it does not you need to extend the blade a little and try again. Once you do get a complete cut then, and only then, try it in the machine. Use a blade pressure setting of 33 (the maximum) and start with a speed of 1. Use a double cut. If you set the blade depth too far for the styrene and the machine cuts all the way through all you will achieve is damage to the cutting mat.

 

Send the job to the cutter and on completion do not eject the cutting mat but peel back a corner and see if the blade has cut all the way through. If it has you can eject and remove from the mat. If not send the cutting job a second time.

 

20thou requires a greater pressure than the machine can deliver hence the need to snap out.

Edited December 5, 2016 by MikeTrice

[Siberian Snooper]

Steve,

 

Some great modelling there, I am glad you decided to post your models here. I'm afraid that I do have one nit to pick though, I am pretty sure that something, possibly folded tarpaulins would be used to protect the propeller blades from the securing chains.

[Rob Pulham]

I tend not to post on this forum now for various reasons but I thought being a somewhat more appreciative audience I thought I'd share these few with you. All have been drawn on Inkscape and cut on the Silhouette.

The first is a Caledonian diagram 18 well wagon one of three built around 1900 for the principle purpose of carrying propellers.

Well wagon.jpg

The wagon and below one of the few original pictures that excist of the original

Well wagon original picture.jpg

A view of the well wagon well showing the exposed axles as on the original dictating the need to build the axle guards as part of the solebars, etched W irons being unsuitable for use on this.

well wagon well.jpg

A final picture of the well wagon with the load fixed and chained in place

Chain fitted.jpg

 

Still at this stage being build a 1910 period diagram 67 4 wheel box van and the extended 6 wheel diagram 80 both being tested for height on there W irons.

D67 and D80 together.jpg

The diagram 67 box van the Caledonian standard box van

D67 van.jpg

An early 1903 pattern with inside frame diagram 67 van left and a pre diagram book 6 ton box van dating from about 1883 this has a roof hatch and a door on one side only

Diagram 67 and pre diagram vans.jpg

A Caledonian diagram 60 steel/rail carrying wagon and behind it the Caledonian diagram 12 empty barrel wagon

diagram 60 wagon.jpg

Finally a diagram 84 refrigerator (Chuck the ice through the roof hatch) van this time in NPCS brown as these were designed to run with passenger trains.

NCPS brown.jpg

   Sorry there's so many pictures, Steve

 

Where is the superb button when you need it?

For completeness I have duplicated this posting on my workbench thread which is where I will continue the build of these from this point.

 

I also made more progress on the OCTs now having two 21' and one 18' examples in similar states of build.

 

 

 

 

and finally a photos of the star and some modified spring hangers. The cast W Irons and springs were kindly cast for me by Kerry Viney in Australia but nice as they are they didn't quite match the spring hangers on my drawing but some time ago when I was experimenting with drawing up springs and hangers in Inkscape I had drawn up and cut some hangers which I hadn't used. I found that If I glued 3 layers together by inserting them on a length of brass wire to index them I could them cut the loop end off and insert them on the bottom of the solebar like you see in the close up below. Not perfect in that they could have been a little wider but now I have the proof of concept adjusting with will take moments before recutting. I will do this for use with the next half dozen that I have, which I plan to use on an NER 6 wheeled OCT

 

[meurglys3]

I wonder if different types of plasticard have an effect? The 10 thou I am using is Javis, which is all my local model shop had - in fact they didn't have it, they ordered some for me. One side seems to have a gloss finish, don't know if that makes any difference.

If I had thought on when I was at the Manchester show on Saturday, I would have got hold of various samples, evergreen, slaters etc.

What are you fellas using?

[PaulCheffus]

I wonder if different types of plasticard have an effect? The 10 thou I am using is Javis, which is all my local model shop had - in fact they didn't have it, they ordered some for me. One side seems to have a gloss finish, don't know if that makes any difference.

If I had thought on when I was at the Manchester show on Saturday, I would have got hold of various samples, evergreen, slaters etc.

What are you fellas using?

Hi

 

So far I've found Slaters cuts all the way through but Evergreen doesn't.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Rob Pulham]

I am using 600 x 300mm sheets from EMA models which I buy mail order.

[Ron Heggs]

Have used a variety of styrene sheets from a number of suppliers, and as has been noted above Evergreen does appear to be a little harder than most. Now use styrene from Eileen's Emporium more or less exclusively. It does pay to keep to one manufacturer/supplier as your cutter settings can standardised, and reduce the volume of failed cuts

 

Ron

[Londontram]

Steve,

 

Some great modelling there, I am glad you decided to post your models here. I'm afraid that I do have one nit to pick though, I am pretty sure that something, possibly folded tarpaulins would be used to protect the propeller blades from the securing chains.

No problem Snoop I've always welcomed constructive advice and you've brought up a very good point here and I'll look into it so thanks for that. Steve

[MikeTrice]

I have used various makes. When I use one with a glossy side I always cut glossy side upwards so it might be worth trying like this.

[Dominion]

Dear Jason, Mike and all the other contributors on this thread,  I wanted to thank you all for sharing your experiences and experiments on here. 

I have read all 66 pages here and have ordered my Portrait.  

Now I can read Mike's Inkscape thread while I wait for the cutter to arrive :-)

Tom

[JohnT]

Hi,

 

I purchased a Cameo a couple of weeks ago and with the help of this a other related threads I have managed to successfully cut both 10 and 15 thou plasticard.

 

I have been slowly working my way through this very informative thread (and Mike's excellent Inkscape tutorial) and I am well advanced into my first building project which will be a large warehouse.

 

I do have a question, which I have already found the answer to on one of the threads that I have been reading but I can't now seem to find it again so I apologise for repetition. I want to know what is the recommended hole size and spacing to allow the solvent to vent from laminated layers of plasticard.

 

Thanks again for a excellent thread.

 

John

 

p.s. I have been using plastic card from Station Road Baseboards for some time now.

Edited December 15, 2016 by JohnT

[Rob Pulham]

Last weekend saw further progress on the GER OCT and the completion of an LNER A Type container to go on it. - Thanks must go to Jonathan Wealleans for supplying me with the information that allowed me to draw the container ready for cutting.

 

Containers are the perfect thing for creating with the Cameo. I have also made a start on making up W Irons and springs from my home produced examples. No photos at present until they are finished.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have also made a start on making up W Irons and springs from my home produced examples. No photos at present until they are finished.

[JCL]

Wow John, you really are taking this machine to the next level.

 

JohnT - I'm not sure, I think uax6 has loooked into this, it might be worth PMing him because I'm not sure if he's on this thread so much now.