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Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge


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Guest Isambarduk

"Quite so, your method gets round those problems, as I said."

Ah, yes; so you did!

 

Please accept my apologies, I missed that part :-( I have altered my rating of your post to 'Agree', which I do, completely :-) Traditional plunger pick-ups have a great potential to be quite troublesome - and I can imagine even more so in 4mm and 7mmNG.

David

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There's definately a list of model railway marmite subjects... My top ten likely to cause discussion are: 

 

1. steam vs diesel / electric

2. DC vs DCC

3. 00 vs EM vs P4

4. scratcher/wiper vs plunger

5. airbrush vs paint brush

6. kit vs RTR (track, stock & buildings)

7. backscene vs no backscene

8. DCC sound (and volume thereof) vs no sound 

9. low layout height vs high

10. 'trainset' vs absolute prototype accuracy

11. Weathered stock vs pristeen 

 

(ok so there's now 11 but i'm invoking a modified rule 1 - it's my thread ;-p )

 

Being that you are now dabbling in 7mm, number 12 will soon be finescale vs S7 vs 31.5mm  ( do not get me started ! ).

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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No, no, definitely not on the treads, as you say, they collect the dirt.  Always rubbing on the backs of the wheels or the edge of the flange.

 

 

Quite so, your method gets round those problems, as I said.

I was referring to the standard plunger method which are fitted from outside the frames, and once in are completely inaccessible without removing the wheels!

And of course we are talking different scales; my experience is in 4mm scale, and 7mm narrow gauge.  In 0-Gauge the friction problems are less of an issue.

 

Cheers,

Dave.

 

Marmite? YUK!

 

Most of my locos have Slater's plunger pickups - some have been running for 10 years plus and in that time only one loco has suffered a pickup problem - ironically an 0-4-0ST least able to cope with a "dodgy" pickup. When I first started using them I used to shorten the supplied springs to get a lighter touch but later they seem to come with less forceful springs. I find them very easy to install and reliable once in. They are also invisible behind the wheel rims unlike some alternatives. I am aware that replacement involves wheel removal - not that big a deal is it?

 

See - I told you you would get conflicting advice :scratchhead: If you do decide to fit plungers don't worry about the wheel movement due to your compensation - this will be minimal and have no effect on the pickups.

 

Chaz

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Not enough bearings ?

Only one cylinder ?

Base plate with 2 holes (probably left over ones from the baseboard) doesn't look square ?

Sliders bars are curved ?

No glass of alcohol in the pictures ?

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Not enough bearings ?

Only one cylinder ?

Base plate with 2 holes (probably left over ones from the baseboard) doesn't look square ?

Sliders bars are curved ?

No glass of alcohol in the pictures ?

No

No

No

Yes

Definitely

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Do you have a resolution planned ?

Not yet, not sure if it's a problem or a design feature. Think I need to fit the motion to that side and see how it (mis)behaves first. I've learnt my lesson before rushing in correcting something that was actually deliberately 'wrong'.

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Chris

 

 As far as I remember the cylinders are ok as they are so all you need to do is file the inside of the motion bracket where it rests against the frames until your slidebars are parallel to the frames. I've had a look under mine and I definitely didn't move the cylinders out. If you were to do that you would have problems locating the motion brackets under the running plates when you build the body. Incidentally, the slidebars are not the right pattern but I decided that I would live with that as I was in a hurry to build 1367.

If you are a member of the Gauge O Guild, or know anyone who is, then you will find a review of my model in the latest issue of the Guild's Gazette magazine.

Hope this helps, I'm following your build with interest in between building my JLRT GWR Mogul.

 

Jeff

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Dare I mention I've chosen 31.5? Takes cover...

 

I have chosen the same gauge as you and I am glad I did.

 

Regarding the slide bar problem, you really need to get the slide bars straight. Judging by the photo it looks like you will have enough room for the wheels and cross heads and still have a bit of clearance that you will need, so I personally would trim the motion bracket back until the slide bars are inline with there entrance to the cylinders.

 

Martyn.

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Well I've just compared the distance over the cylinders on the model with the drawing and they are fine. So that's three votes to moving the motion brackets in board. See, I told you it was going too well!

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Chris

 

 As far as I remember the cylinders are ok as they are so all you need to do is file the inside of the motion bracket where it rests against the frames until your slidebars are parallel to the frames. I've had a look under mine and I definitely didn't move the cylinders out. If you were to do that you would have problems locating the motion brackets under the running plates when you build the body. Incidentally, the slidebars are not the right pattern but I decided that I would live with that as I was in a hurry to build 1367.

If you are a member of the Gauge O Guild, or know anyone who is, then you will find a review of my model in the latest issue of the Guild's Gazette magazine.

Hope this helps, I'm following your build with interest in between building my JLRT GWR Mogul.

 

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I was a member for a year but let it expire just before Kettering show.

 

Yes, I noticed that the slide bars aren't the right pattern - should they have tapers at each end?

 

Looks like the iron is coming out for a bit of deconstructing.

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At least there is no outside valve gear. 15xx next then Chris?

You are correct, it is a PD&SWJR 0-6-2T. I have the plates for Lord St Leven.

A. S. Harris was tried once on the Wenford line I believe.

My marmite topic? Diesel hydraulics vs diesel electrics..... ;-)

I had the trial of AS Harris in mind for Pencarrow. Just a slight history change and it could have stayed on the Wenford...

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I had the trial of AS Harris in mind for Pencarrow. Just a slight history change and it could have stayed on the Wenford...

What had A S Harris done to be tried at Bodmin ? Nothing like his namesake I hope !

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Well, I appear to have spent the last three hours cooking, dismantling a steel frame bunk bed and making plaster of Paris Hello Kitty models.

 

Back now to the serious stuff, motion brackets, amendment thereof.

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I'm just back from a holiday in South Devon to see some excellent progress Chris.No sign of 1369 at Buckfastleigh earlier today as I'd planned to take some snaps for you.

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I'm just back from a holiday in South Devon to see some excellent progress Chris.No sign of 1369 at Buckfastleigh earlier today as I'd planned to take some snaps for you.

Welcome back Rob, you've some order to restore over on ANTB. Good luck, the locals are revolting!

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The problem is the peg is upside down.

Seriously though, looking forward to the completed model

Terry

The pegs come in very useful Tel. I can see this build taking some considerable time, especially as there's lots to learn along the way. This afternoon particularly has been a 'learning' experience.

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Can you fit the crosshead screw from the other side? Fit a slimmed down nut to the outside as it looks better than the slot of a screw, and they often did have a nut there.

Yes, I think I can easily swap the nut and bolt over.

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