CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 When you're finished, you should do a write-up for a magazine. It is a fascinating little project. I whole heartedly agree, but sadly many of them seem preoccupied with box planting type stuff, these days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 if i were to do an article, i think the most likely to accept it would be the guild gazette or I&NGMR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 started to build up the firebox now Rebecca (49) by Sam, on Flickr and here is the my new workbench. the draws used to be part of a computer table and ive been using the top of it as a bedside table for years. i once brought home a load of 30mm square timber from a labouring job 2 years ago. my workbench just built yesterday by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted June 19, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 19, 2016 if i were to do an article, i think the most likely to accept it would be the guild gazette or I&NGMR I've had two articles on plasticard models of small Locos in the G0G Gazette so you should have no problem with a build of an unusual prototype, a bit of blurb & nice photos. Green Ayre as the backdrop should help! Dava Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) The £5 wagon bought at Doncaster is now finished wagon 2 (3) by Sam, on Flickr and the firebox wrap around on Rebecca Rebecca (52) by Sam, on Flickr the wagon in the background above is the GWR 13 ton bought at NG north which i am now working on inbetween working on Rebecca Edited June 20, 2016 by sir douglas 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 21, 2016 Author Share Posted June 21, 2016 (edited) during Rebecca's load test on friday a slight problem with the gearbox became apparent, it ran smoothly backwards, but after a while running forwards, it slowed down, stuttered and siezed. this morning i took the rear wheels to get the gearbox out, my theory was that the spacer tube was a tiny fraction too long making a tight fit and some running caused the friction of the tube and its neighbouring parts to warm up, expand and seize up, but i havent come up with a theory on why only one way, well i took the spacer out made a few passes over one end with a file put it all back together, a coating off oil and it is now running even better, another load test down at the club on friday will determine it for sure DSCN0452 by Sam, on Flickr here is the build up of styrene will will become the brass surround of the backhead DSCN0454 by Sam, on Flickr since i first painted the wheels i was thinking whether i should also paint the tyre face which most real locos are, i have now done so and it looks a lot better DSCN0457 by Sam, on Flickr Edited June 22, 2016 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 (edited) GWR 13 ton finished wagon gwr (3) by Sam, on Flickr coupling hooks were second hand at the gog doncaster, but the chains were copper so i swapped them for chain i made up myself out of mild steel wire, the springs are a pen spring cut in half wagon gwr (4) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca's smoebox door has now been made and fitted. Rebecca (58) by Sam, on Flickr The way i made the smokebox door is the same way i always make styrene circles. drill a hole in the middle of a styrene square, screw that square onto a head like the one below, put into dremel / drill and run it against a file until the desired diameter. the only difference is that the smokebox door was first made up of glueing together layers of styrene first to build up the thickness and after getting the diameter, then run a knife and then a file inwards to get the section profile. the black on it is because i painted on a few layers of black acrylic and sanded it down to fill in any slight pits and grooves. the pofile on this was little challenging because it has a sort of, a way to decribe it as a slight "s" shape across the radius Also made a start on the backhead detail Rebecca (57) by Sam, on Flickr Lastly, An order from S&D i made last week for some bits arrived today in the post, such as brake column, water gauges, oil cans, lifting jack, chimney and smokebox dart Edited June 23, 2016 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Like it :-) "the profile on this was little challenging because it has a sort of, a way to describe it as a slight "s" shape across the radius" Ah, yes, I do know the problem! See here: www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110275-reworking-a-san-cheng-tower-gwr-1361-0-6-0st/?p=2274088 David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 load test last night rebecca load test by Sam, on Flickr video rebecca load test by Sam, on Flickr 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 (edited) the regulator stuffing box rebecca (62) by Sam, on Flickr its starting to look like a loco now with the chimney and dart handles on. when i first sat the chimney in place, it was too tall so i was going to cut it downn but i also didnt want to cut it down needlessly so i first tried to make up a cap to go on top, if i couldnt then i wouldnt cut the chimney down. the cap making was succesful. also, i was thinking that since there is no space for water anywhere on the body then it must be a well tank to i put lid on the running plate rebecca (61) by Sam, on Flickr rebecca (60) by Sam, on Flickr Edited June 26, 2016 by sir douglas 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 so i was painting the water gauge parts and while i had the paint open, the backhead surround and stuffing box got a coat as well rebecca (64) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 the dome is made up of a whitemetal safety valve, a 10mm dia' tube and milliput. the saftey valve casting had to be filed down to remove the curves so it just on a circular base. the casting was then super glued to the black tube and this was glued into a hole drilled into the boiler. after that had dried the milliput was applied and left to set, that was then worked back with the dremel, file and fie sand paper rebecca (63) by Sam, on Flickr rebecca (66) by Sam, on Flickr the water gauge castings have been made up rebecca (68) by Sam, on Flickr last week my order of plates came from Narrowplanet rebecca (65) by Sam, on Flickr its a bit too small to see so this is NP's artwork for it, 2 pairs of charles roberts plates, and the name plates. Halfmoon's plates have been put away in the loco's box 1 pair of the roberts plaes has been glues to the tank wagon wagon tank (28) by Sam, on Flickr One of the Midland 3 planks has been finished. another 3 plank ad 2 Midland vans are currently being worked on wagon MR 3 plank (2) by Sam, on Flickr One of the things i would like to do next is a complete rebuild of J Aspdin's chassis, not even that i probably will have to start again with a new chassis. now that i have learnt how to make a running gearbox and chassis, its about time J Aspdin got fixed 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jinty3f Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 This is an exciting and inspirational thread. I am currently trying to build an L&Y Pug 0-4-0 from card and have learned a lot from following your builds. One question - how do you create the bolt heads which are a feature on some of your wagons? JD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 hi jinty3f, thanks for the interest. my bolt heads are styrene 1mm rod cut into 0.5mm lengths. since your working with card did you get to see the Jim Read threads while he was still active on here a few years ago and theres also the card modelling of Cornamouse like in here Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 everywhere except inside the cab has now got a solid undercoat of black including the cab backsheet now i can start painting the brown (same as on the wheels) going by most of the prototype photos that i printed out as reference, the dome will be brass rebecca (69) by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) hi jinty3f, thanks for the interest. my bolt heads are styrene 1mm rod cut into 0.5mm lengths. since your working with card did you get to see the Jim Read threads while he was still active on here a few years ago and theres also the card modelling of Cornamouse like in here Hi Guys, Yes I often use styrene rod of varying sizes for 'bolts' and if sanded 'rivets'. The easiest way is to drill a small hole and with solvent 'weld' the rod in place (in a longer length than required) and leave to set over-night etc. and then trim to size as required, sanding and filing to shape to suit ones needs. Another trick I use is to apply PVA type glue with a sharp point it forms a stable (gloopy) domed drop and becomes a bolt-head or rivet when dry - takes some practice and is probably better suited to the larger scales such as SM32 - but it can be used in 7mm or 10mm modelling with care. Also remember that bolted flanges can be formed up out of pre-formed 'bolt-head' styrene sheet - eg. at the corners/joints of cab sides et al. If one can mark out rivets and bolts before assembly (ie from the back) then they can be applied using a compass point or indeed a rivet tool in most mediums/substrates if care is taken. If desperate and/or working on a metal model, I have used fuse-wire (in a similar way to styrene rod method) as bolt/rivet heads, the same with NS rod (but that is harder to sand/file/rework.....only used on wet day wagon modelling whilst on holiday, away from home, and nothing else was to hand!). I am hoping to try bolt/rivet transfer sheets, but they are pricey - and I have only just found out that the should only be used before painting (I was going to apply such retrospectively to a model that I wanted to detail further - me a rivet counter? LOL!!). Hope that the above helps - keep up the good work! ATVB CME Edited June 29, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 "Another trick I use is to apply PVA type glue with a sharp point it forms a stable (gloopy) domed drop and becomes a bolt-head or rivet when dry ..." Just so. I did this at one time but soon discovered that 5 minute Devcon epoxy, which is not stringy like Araldite, was rather better. However, the most valuable technique that I discovered is to make pin prick indents for all the rivets before you start; this not only ensures that you have each rivet where you intended it to be but it also helps the blobs to form nicely and not to wander off their target. To apply the epoxy, I used a slightly bent pin with the head removed, the point blunted and conveniently held in a pin vice. Happy riveting. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 Rebecca (70) by Sam, on Flickr In the cab, brake column, coal bunker, whistle pipe, the manifold it connects to and most importantly the flask. the pencil circle marks where i think the pressure gauge should go. i did originally build both water gauges but decided that only one was needed so the other has been put away. Rebecca (72) by Sam, on Flickr outside of the cab back sheet Rebecca (71) by Sam, on Flickr name and works plates coloured in Rebecca (73) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 2, 2016 Author Share Posted July 2, 2016 (edited) reversing lever Rebecca (74) by Sam, on Flickr whistle Rebecca (75) by Sam, on Flickr 4 midland wagons finished, new buffers, coupling chain and some new coupling springs as well wagon MR by Sam, on Flickr 3 plank open close up wagon MR 3 plank (3) by Sam, on Flickr van close up wagon MR van (2) by Sam, on Flickr Also, ive been making some stock trays, im basically copying Jamie's wagon trays, 2 wooden trays that stack inside a folding crate. 1 tray can hold 12 wagons. i ave 14 wagons and 3 short carraiges so that will leave a little spare room for more wagons. just for a catch up, here is the full list of my stock so far: - Ian Kirk G&SWR wagon (x2) - Skytrex generic RCH 12 ton (x3) - freelance van - GWR 13 ton - dumb buffer - "Donnie" (nicknamed so because it was bought at GOG doncaster) - Midland 3 plank (x2) - Midland van (x2) - tank - bogie carriage - 4 wheel carriage - NBR brake third (partially built) Edited July 2, 2016 by sir douglas 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 reversing lever and coal load Rebecca (78) by Sam, on Flickr pressure gauge. A 4mm length of 5mm dia' plastic rod with 4mm hole drilled into it and a 7mm dia' circle stuck on the back Rebecca (81) by Sam, on Flickr gauge in place with brass rod for pipe and black weathering around the top of the coal bunker. holes drilled in the footplate for the crew Rebecca (82) by Sam, on Flickr the crew, i cant remember where theyre from, ive got a few from different people over the years and some second hand so i dont know where most of my figure originally came from Rebecca (77) by Sam, on Flickr Lastly, the spectacle plates painted Rebecca (79) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca (80) by Sam, on Flickr 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 (edited) brake gear. the shoes are 2mm ply, darkened with an acrylic black wash Rebecca (86) by Sam, on Flickr and fitted Rebecca (87) by Sam, on Flickr the handrails. i figured that id use a continuous "U" bend instead of 2 seperate lengths for strength Rebecca (83) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca (84) by Sam, on Flickr J Aspdin's chassis was dismantled last week. the bag on the left is the salveged parts of the old chassis and the bag on the right are the new wheelsets, Slaters 3'7" hunslet. i cant drill the bearing holes in the frame as i the order for them hasnt arrived yet J Aspdin (37) by Sam, on Flickr Edited July 4, 2016 by sir douglas 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 the varnish on the stock trays has now dried and the stock put away both trays in crate (2) by Sam, on Flickr top tray out crate (3) by Sam, on Flickr top tray out with stock. one of the top compartments will eventually be filled by the NBR brake third crate (5) by Sam, on Flickr the now redundant cardboard stock boxes 006 by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) the strips around the cab side and the back sheet Rebecca (88) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca (89) by Sam, on Flickr Edited July 5, 2016 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted July 5, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2016 Rebecca looks good. I like the prototype, and you've managed to capture its quirky charm perfectly - nice one! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 (edited) plates on. i made a cardboard template to get them in the right place. the figures are in as well rebecca (90) by Sam, on Flickr rebecca (91) by Sam, on Flickr rebecca (92) by Sam, on Flickr cab roof on rebecca (93) by Sam, on Flickr rebecca (95) by Sam, on Flickr brackets for the shaft that connects the brake column to the rodding rebecca (96) by Sam, on Flickr Edited July 20, 2016 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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