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Guest Isambarduk

"... I didn't have any drawings for my Fowler centre-cab conversion. It was all done by estimating from the prototype photographs and the bodger's principle of "if it looks right, it is right" ... "
 
That's perfectly acceptable in my book, Chris.  When I build my Fowler 0-4-0DM LMS No.2 using many of the parts from an Underhill/Vulcan kit (now with ABS), I did have a copy of the Fowler outline GA drawing to help me with the major dimensions but all the detail drawings I drew up from scaling off the two official photographs.  In fact, in detail, LMS No. 2 is very different from GWR No. 2 (ie the Ixion model) but I think it looks right so to me it is right. 
 
As an aside, as I understand it, the advice of "If it looks right, it is right" is a corruption of "If it is right, it'll look right" but you can make your own choice.
 
David



Fowler-Diesel_Mechanical.jpg

 

See: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/LMS_Fowler.htm for details of 'How I did it', including punching the louvres, and the two official Fowler photographs.
 

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firstly whats circumlocution and infinitives

Circumlocution is the use of many words where fewer would do, especially in a deliberate attempt to be vague or evasive e.g. "He was guilty of a terminological inexactitude" = "He lied".

 

The infinitive form of a verb is the verb in its basic form and is the version of the verb that will appear in the dictionary. The infinitive form of a verb is usually preceded by "to" e.g., to go. An infinitive is split when an adverb or adverbial phrase is inserted between the "to" and the bare form of the verb. One of the most well know split infinitives is "To boldly go".

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today i got back a bit of enthusiasm for the Planet

The sand pots have now been finished and fitted. on the previous page post #243, 4 pairs of styrene blocks glued and clipped together. This morning, they were filed down square and to length, the angles cut in with the hacksaw and all the corners rounded off with sandpaper. i still need to put on the filler caps on top

30654643842_9cc7d4dd5b_z.jpgPlanet (45) by Sam, on Flickr

30771337735_4d1e13b051_z.jpgPlanet (46) by Sam, on Flickr

30683053711_6ddf9987f6_z.jpgPlanet (47) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Next is the box on the left hand side of the radiator. The 2 sides glued down with spacers inbetween and a thin sheet wrap around

30139465204_b0d005b6b6_z.jpgPlanet (48) by Sam, on Flickr 

Edited by sir douglas
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i dont know, but i might just make it

 

the radiator today. i want something that looks like a radiotor not just a plain surface painted black or cut the corner and hide it behind a grill or mesh

30791037265_e035d6fdaf_z.jpgPlanet (49) by Sam, on Flickr

 

The 1.5mm wide strips used shown by the spare on the left

30155418803_50f4f10c33_z.jpgPlanet (50) by Sam, on Flickr

30674104892_3255b51150_z.jpgPlanet (52) by Sam, on Flickr

30791030395_b789282444_z.jpgPlanet (54) by Sam, on Flickr

30754379146_a4fa59b52c_z.jpgPlanet (55) by Sam, on Flickr

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a new find, somebody else made a planet but in 10mm scale

http://www.woodburymodels.co.uk/motive-power/

 

Bonnet side doors. the door handles are conical so made them from plastic rod, filing a point onto the end of the rod and then cutting it off and repeting another 7 times

post-9948-0-27802600-1478434358.png

30811994455_c0c62d4cdf_z.jpgPlanet (58) by Sam, on Flickr

30176987363_06787190f7_z.jpgPlanet (59) by Sam, on Flickr

 

end on view showing the hangles, and also are the radiator brackets now on

30511047840_153cb965a7_z.jpgPlanet (60) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Now moving onto the axleboxes and springs, styrene blocks glued together which will be the axleboxes and parts cut out for the leaf spring housings

30695191812_e5cff05493_z.jpgPlanet (56) by Sam, on Flickr

 

leaf spring housings made up

30176995893_913870e680_z.jpgPlanet (57) by Sam, on Flickr

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axleboxes cut and filed. ive added a backing piece to connect up the parts and fix onto the back of the loco's solebars. Have also started detailing the axleboxes with the circular plates and retangluar plate on top.

 

shown are the axleboxes with a leaf spring housing sat in position not glued down

30770129301_a1f3656e91_z.jpgPlanet (61) by Sam, on Flickr

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and now for the dreaded leaf springs.

 

The one part that ive been wanting to put off but still need to do are the leaf springs, this morning i decided to make a jig to form them on. the longest length of the spring is pinned down to a curved block of wood with a centre line drawn on, each length is cut out and a centre marked on that can be lined up with he line on the jig when glueing down. the first length is scale 3'2", the second goes down by 3" each end to 2'8" to clear the pin heads but the next lengths go down by 2" at each end (4") down to the shortest at 8"

 

one completed leaf spring left to set. the paper show the planning of the suspension, on the right i wrote down the leaf spring length increments so dont need to remember them for the other 3 leaf springs

30244689964_26573c1ac9_z.jpgPlanet (62) by Sam, on Flickr

 

another angle

30244688114_9c9b3e5bdd_z.jpgPlanet (63) by Sam, on Flickr

 

exhaust and bonnet top hatch added. The exhaust is plastic rod from a kit sprue with a hole drilled in the end

30244686324_742243b58a_z.jpgPlanet (64) by Sam, on Flickr

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It's the faffing around making multiples of things such as axleboxes and springs that are a pain when scratchbuilding. If I ever get started on one of these I may look at making one part and getting the others cast in resin.

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The fourth leaf spring is now sitting on the block.

 

The spring housings have been stuck down to the axlebox assembly sans the housing fronts, to make it easier to sit them in place and paint them and then put the housing fronts back on. the pick was taken whit the the third leaf spring on the block

30807598791_459b31cd35_z.jpgPlanet (65) by Sam, on Flickr

 

on the chassis, the suspension positions have been marked. the mounting slots for the motor chassis have been removed as im scrapping it, it doesnt run well at all and every time i tinker with it, it gets worse and not better so im going to build a new conventional chassis from scratch. this also means that the loco's wheelbase can be the correct 5'6" instead of the Lima's at 6'6"

30779729822_81613444c8_z.jpgPlanet (66) by Sam, on Flickr

 

In other news,

A start has been made on the footboards for the brakevan. The footboard hangers have been made out of brass, 3 on each side, the boards wont go full length but just under the door and the veranda

30895838155_af4c6b69a5_z.jpgbrake van (21) by Sam, on Flickr

 

2 holes drilled into each hanger are for pins that will superglue into place into corresponding holes in the solebars, these have been drilled and as the holes in each hanger arent exactly the same, each hanger and its solebar position is numbered. Also ca be seen is that last week i put latches on the sliding doors. the chap that used to stand on the bridge on HCLR is going to stood on the veranda, the hole for which has been drilled in the floor for his standing wire

30779735542_37afe11a7c_z.jpgbrake van (23) by Sam, on Flickr

 

16100528844_2b3776ab72_z.jpg406 by Sam, on Flickr

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Michael Edge has said that one of his compensated etched chassis is the right wheelbase for the Planet, I'm sure he'd tell you which one.

 

Dava

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Just done some more work on the chassis

 

building up the brackets for the rods that stop lateral movement of the axleboxes

30844218981_c8353cb776_z.jpgPlanet (68) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Also now done are the long bolts that clamp the middle of the leaf springs down to the axleboxes and the boltheads on the L section on the inside of the bufferbeams next to the sand pots

25296875469_2fd928a33d_z.jpgPlanet (70) by Sam, on Flickr

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Brackets finished an stay rods glued in, i tried the first layer of black undercoat but only after painting did i realised that i haven't done the cab steps, so they'll be next before the second coat

30838371902_52b88c64bf_z.jpgPlanet (71) by Sam, on Flickr

22776584138_db977479ce_z.jpgPlanet (72) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Also, a first coat on the radiator. apart from the running plate, roof and exhaust The body will have a grey undercoat as ive chosen a light colour. more on that when the time comes

30653048240_84d6a785b1_z.jpgPlanet (73) by Sam, on Flickr

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ive not had to put 3 coats of black onto the leaf springs to get a solid colour so i can put the housing fronts on. the black is a large tin of Pheonix dull black (but always gives an enamel finish) its the same black ive been doing all the metalwrk on the wagons with. the red is Tamiya X-7 same as the bufferbeams on J Aspdin

30887282472_9c51828918_z.jpgPlanet (74) by Sam, on Flickr

 

body with 1 coat of grey, footplate and exhaust with 1 coat of black and a second coat on the radiator. Also is a sample of the Blue i'd like to use, its an old tin of Humbrol the lid says 50 but No 50 is now dark green, so the current equivalent is No 47. te grey is from Pheonix, which i have been using on the wagons as the finish colour

30887280262_90d8493a0e_z.jpgPlanet (75) by Sam, on Flickr

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As usual its normally my fault if something goes wrong, i said that i wasnt happy with the consistency of the black paint but it was my fault for not thoroughly mixing it before use. the chassis now looks a lot better after 1 coat of properly mixed paint

31051507885_cef4e14313_z.jpgPlanet (82) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Now the horn, the other day i decided to make it by machining down a bit of 1/8th brass rod with my files

31051513195_69e411f5dd_z.jpgPlanet (78) by Sam, on Flickr

31015768386_57f3a3d5f1_z.jpgPlanet (79) by Sam, on Flickr

 

then cut that off and hold the thin end in the drill to clean up the rough surface from the saw. it was then put in the vice to drill in a pilot hole which is then opened up with the a countersink and finally curved with a file

30937408381_f675642086_z.jpgPlanet (80) by Sam, on Flickr

30909260932_054b1d8e0a_z.jpgPlanet (81) by Sam, on Flickr

 

and an overall view

31051504115_fabd694360_z.jpgPlanet (83) by Sam, on Flickr

Edited by sir douglas
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As usual its normally my fualt if something goes wrong, i said that i wasnt happy with the consistency of the black paint but it was my fault for not thoroughly mixing it before use. the chassis now looks a lot better after 1 coat of properly mixed paint

31051507885_cef4e14313_z.jpgPlanet (82) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Now the horn, the other day i decided to make it by machining down a bit of 1/8th brass road with my files

31051513195_69e411f5dd_z.jpgPlanet (78) by Sam, on Flickr

31015768386_57f3a3d5f1_z.jpgPlanet (79) by Sam, on Flickr

 

then cut that off and hold the thin end in the drill to clean up the rough surface from the saw. it was then put in the vice to drill in a pilot hole which is then opened up with the a countersink and finally curved with a file

30937408381_f675642086_z.jpgPlanet (80) by Sam, on Flickr

30909260932_054b1d8e0a_z.jpgPlanet (81) by Sam, on Flickr

 

and an overall view

31051504115_fabd694360_z.jpgPlanet (83) by Sam, on Flickr

Very neat horn. I do like the shade of blue.

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pics from yesterday, i took Rebecca and the tank wagon to the show for the competition, they would have just sat on a display stand all weekend but fellow wakefield club O gauger Paul Brierley said it was okay to leave them on his Derwent valley layout Elvington, so they run up and down every now & then

30749026260_7d64e53b04_z.jpg001 by Sam, on Flickr

30295806844_61e4be74ee_z.jpg002 by Sam, on Flickr

 

i have now bought some suitable wheels for the planet, Slaters 3 hole disk wagon wheels from Jim mcgowan and a pack assorted gears from Squires

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So firstly, it was nice to finally meet Ruston and have a chat

 

Secondly, The two competitions that i entered at the show, Rollingstock with the Tank wagon and Locomotive with the Kitson

 

I won both, trophies which will now adorn our fireplace for a year

31154813395_3915e98db1_z.jpgawards by Sam, on Flickr

 

And now back to the Planet. I would  have prefered a motor size like the two previous locos but the bonnet is too narrow so instead im using two smaller motors, one on each axle. I dont have any brass chocolate blocks left with 1/8th holes so i raided one of my dad's bits boxes and found 2 screw bosses with 1/8th hole. The 1/8th brass rods will be cut down for the idler gears. Bearings from Comet

30333254824_b0a53cbb63_z.jpgPlanet (84) by Sam, on Flickr

 

with the two large gears back to back i cant put the brass wires through for the screw boss as they would obstruct the idler gear at the other side, so my decision was to bend the wires inwards into the bosses on the gear. 

30333250654_00bab7483b_z.jpgPlanet (85) by Sam, on Flickr

 

In the forground, the bent wires in their drilled holes. In the background, wires and screwboss soldered together with just excess wire to cut and file back

31154788315_5650affc65_z.jpgPlanet (87) by Sam, on Flickr

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