sir douglas Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 (edited) While working ont he brake shaft i realised a cock up, i positioned the shaft in line with the column but should be behind it for the crank so that meant new brackets and the old ones were cut off 005 by Sam, on Flickr 004 by Sam, on Flickr cab roof painted 003 by Sam, on Flickr J Aspdin's chassis profile cut out, pilot holes drilled for the bearings and the buffer holes drilled out 006 by Sam, on Flickr Edited July 7, 2016 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 (edited) cab steps next Rebecca (98) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca (99) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca (100) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca (101) by Sam, on Flickr steps painted and chassis bolt heads Rebecca (104) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca (105) by Sam, on Flickr Lamp irons Rebecca (107) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca (108) by Sam, on Flickr Edited July 9, 2016 by sir douglas 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 and with the brake rods now on, Rebecca is finished rebecca (114) by Sam, on Flickr rebecca (113) by Sam, on Flickr rebecca (112) by Sam, on Flickr The other day J Aspdin's bearings came in the post so it wasnt long before i got a rolling chassis together J aspdin (39) by Sam, on Flickr and with the body on J aspdin (41) by Sam, on Flickr the new coupling rods cut, soldered and filed. im not going to drill them as ive already tried it and the holes werent straight so i had to cut out new set. im going to drill them with the pillar drill down at the club tomorrow. and ill drill out the spare "chocolate-block-grub-screw-boss" for this loco J aspdin (40) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 just trying to decide which will be my next wagon build. - motor car van / CCT - cattle van - low loader Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 Since the last post on J Aspdin, i had to completely start again from scratch on the chassis and the on rods. The standard procedure with chassis building is to fix the con rods to the chassis frames and drill them through together so that the wheel base is exactly the same. I didnt do that first time round as i havent done a 3 axle chassis before so it didnt occur to me. The second time around, the con rods were cut longer and drilled holes in the ends and corresponding holes in the frames, the frames and the con rods were bolted together with 8BA bolts and then 2 holes in the ends of the frames screwed down to a wooden plank and to make sure the holed were straight i used the pillar drill don at the club J Aspdin (44) by Sam, on Flickr and with the body sat on J Aspdin (43) by Sam, on Flickr The next thing is the gearbox. 2 plates of 0.5mm nickel sheet spced by 16mm of styrene 4.5mm square section. the motor screws onto a 16mm wide setion that screws onto the middle of 2 of the spacers. J Aspdin (42) by Sam, on Flickr The motor sat in its mounting but screwed on, the idler gear pushed onto its brass shaft, the gearbox frames have the idler shaft and xle holes drilled but not yet the spacer crew holes. Also in view is my drawing of the gearbox and a Meccano screw block that will drill out to use as in the same fahion as the chocolate block screw boss. my only way of doing it will be to have a go on a friends lathe, he says i can whenevr just need to arrange a time to go over. J Aspdin (45) by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 Today I had a go at making the drive gear screw boss out of a spare axle bearing and a 8BA nut & bolt a flat was filed onto the bearing and a hole drilled, the nut was soldered onto this and then 2 grooves opposite eache were filed into the bearing flange to solder on the 2 brass wires J Aspdin (46) by Sam, on Flickr J Aspdin (46) by Sam, on Flickr gearbox together and tested J Aspdin (47) by Sam, on Flickr J Aspdin (48) by Sam, on Flickr video of the gearbox running https://flic.kr/p/JH7CEo and finally in the chassis J Aspdin (51) by Sam, on Flickr J Aspdin (50) by Sam, on Flickr 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 so wheels painted, con rods bolted on, pick ups on and test, guess what? the motor smokes and commits suicide just as i have a finished chassis. now i have to find a suitable replacement, i havent got another motor of the same size in my collection. fantastic Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 (edited) "... the motor smokes and commits suicide ..." Oh dear! There's always a reason for that; if it was a sad motor, then a replacement is in order, but do check that it was not being overstretched by a tight spot or a jam in the frames or gearbox. All the best finding a replacement motor. David Edited July 31, 2016 by Isambarduk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hesperus Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 What a pain, it was all going so well. There are a lot of cheap motors available at the moment on ebay from China. There has been a thread running for a while now in the 2mm finescale section http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/111614-chinese-motor-test/. While the motors that they are buying are too small for 7mm scale the same suppliers have bigger ones too. I've just receivied a pair of these and they feel really well made. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262447916172?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 i ran the motor in with the gearbox, that was fine, then tested it in the chassis with con rods for a few minutes both ways before the pickups and it was fine so i really dont know Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 "I've just receivied a pair of these and they feel really well made. http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT" 2pcs DC 12-24V 24000RPM Five Pole Rotor Compensable Carbon Brush Toy Motor DIY In this context, what does "Compensable" mean, please? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 (edited) the situation as of now. The motor im going to use. The mounting plate just comes off on 2 screws and all i need to do is make one. the drawing for the new plate is bottom right J Aspdin (53) by Sam, on Flickr Edited July 31, 2016 by sir douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hesperus Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 "I've just receivied a pair of these and they feel really well made. http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT" 2pcs DC 12-24V 24000RPM Five Pole Rotor Compensable Carbon Brush Toy Motor DIY In this context, what does "Compensable" mean, please? David I don't know what it means in any context Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 "I don't know what it means in any context" Well, I don't think it's a word that I have ever used and I believe it is more commonly used it the USA but it is a respectably old word (derived from French) meaning: (Of a loss or hardship) for which compensation can be obtained. which is why I find it hard to fathom its meaning in the context of a motor. Perhaps they intended it to mean 'replacement'? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 new motor in ad running video before connecting the pickups https://flic.kr/p/KEVQ7Q and a pic of after, it does run this time J Aspdin (54) by Sam, on Flickr 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I love the fact that you've had the sense to wire in a removable plug between the pick-ups and the motor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 if you have an electrical appliance, dvd / video player that stopped working, dont just throw it away, take it apart. You can get useful parts out of them like screws, plugs, motors and switches. with the plugs, the female half is normally soldered to the circuit board which just needs taking out with the iron. this plug is 1 of 2 that came out of a R/C helicopter i found in a bush on my morning dog walk, i left it for a few days after seeing it in case the owner came, they didnt so i took it. 2 plugs, 2 motors, a battery a servo and some 3mm inner dia' steel tube. the new motor in the Hunslet came out of a knock off dremel or "motorized cleaning tool" that eventually fell apart. the top of the chassis had to have a chamfer filed into it for the motor to sit level and the inner sides of the tanks had to be cut out to fit around it J Aspdin (56) by Sam, on Flickr J Aspdin (61) by Sam, on Flickr J Aspdin (59) by Sam, on Flickr J Aspdin (60) by Sam, on Flickr Just ran it on my test track with the body on and it runs okay, a little limp on it but not as much as ive seen on some kit locos built by experienced kit building friends 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted August 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2016 It looks good sir Douglas! Has that nice chunky feel to it that instinctively makes me think 'Hunslet'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 well i cured the limp somewhat but now its very stuttery going forwards but fine backwards, well in the meantime ive painted the buffer beams and fitted the buffers, hooks and chain. the bunker now has a coal load J Aspdin (64) by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymw Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Looking at your video, there is a lot of end-play in the motor armature. If you don't want to change the motor, maybe you can fit a couple of brass strips to press on the shaft ends. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) by chance found the stutter and fixed it while fiiting the pickups on the centre wheels. On the wheelbacks on 2 of the wheels, the pickups were touching the border between the tyre and the plastic so there wasnt constant pickup which created the stuttering so thankfully it wasnt anything mechanical which would have meant dismantling to fix J aspdin (65) by Sam, on Flickr video https://www.flickr.com/photos/59562189@N03/28863187986/in/dateposted-public/ Edited August 10, 2016 by sir douglas 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 the brake arms & shoes have been reused from the old chassis but with some new styrene packing to put them the right distance from the frames, the brake shaft hangers are on just behind the rear wheels, the bolt heads have been put onto the shaft hangers and the frame end L brackets. The brackets and bolt heads have been painted. What also needed painting were the ends of the brass motor strap and the side of the gearbox which is visible between the smokebox and the side tanks when the body is on J Aspdin (67) by Sam, on Flickr whats not quite easy to see as its in the shadow of the cab is that ive also touched up the brass paint around the safety valve and the pressure gauge pipe manifold 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 update a bit delayed because a bit of uploading problems The brake gear is now all on J Aspdin (70) by Sam, on Flickr J Aspdin (69) by Sam, on Flickr Next, the front lamp bracket and smokebox dart handles J Aspdin (72) by Sam, on Flickr And finally the video of it running last night at the club. One of the voices is Jamie just off camera working on the overhead wiring http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2646-lancaster-green-ayre-stringing-the-knitting-at-last/?p=2399548 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted August 13, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 13, 2016 Hey, you've got there! I reckon this loco was an epic, but in the end you've gained a lot of experience, which will pay off far more than just having a loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 yea, the first thing is using proper wheelsets like slaters, On "Rebecca" i struggled so much keeping the bodged wheelsets quartered and the chassis wouldnt run at all but as soon as i put on the slaters wheels it ran perfectly first time and the rest of the loco just fell together 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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