Ian Kirk Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Well done Sam. I have not been to the Wakefield Show for ages but used to be a regular. When I stopped producing 00 kits I left it to Colin Ashby as by then I was only doing O gauge Shows. I know Paul Brierly he has been a customer and I still see him or hear from him from time to time. One year I was a bit late in getting to the Show(roadworks on the A1) and struggled to get my stand set up before customers came in on the Friday evening. The following year I messed up my dates and arrived a week early! I just had to drive back to Scotland and come back next week. I got my leg pulled a bit over that. Good to see a young modeller doing proper modelling. Keep up the good work. best wishes, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 24, 2016 Author Share Posted November 24, 2016 thanks Ian. A correction to make, it wasnt the Locomotive trophie that i won but the newcomer (someone who hasnt won any of the competitions before) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 24, 2016 Author Share Posted November 24, 2016 grey base coat on the brake van solebars and foot boards brake van (26) by Sam, on Flickr 2 things i forgot to mention from the show. Firstly, i bought a pack of hooks from Hobby Holidays for future wagon builds wagon hooks by Sam, on Flickr And secondly Ruston very kindly gave me chassis parts for 3 wagons which i will build eventually wagon ruston by Sam, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 black paintwork on the Brakevan but still need to tidy up the paintwork on the solebars and fill in the holes on the axlebox faces so i can paint over them brake van (27) by Sam, on Flickr 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 Since i first fitted the buffers to the brakevan, theyve been sticking inside and not coming back out when pushed in. so the decision was to put wire across the inside when i got around to fitting the hooks. the ends of the wires are held in place by being soldered to the brass bolts Brake van (28) by Sam, on Flickr the paintwork is done for now, Just like the rest of m stock it'll need lettering and numbering one day Brake van (30) by Sam, on Flickr Brake van (29) by Sam, on Flickr for the lead shot, im reusing the Slaters driving axle trays Brake van (31) by Sam, on Flickr 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 The windows glazed, roof on and painted, all thats left is the brakegear Brake van (33) by Sam, on Flickr Brake van (32) by Sam, on Flickr 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 i went for timber brake shoes on the brake van. the broken V hanger has been replaced nd both have been doudled up for strength Brake van (34) by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 I didnt see any need to include the column thread as youll not see it so the arm between it and the shaft will just disappear behind the solebars. once the paint on the V hangers dry, the van will be put away Brake van (37) by Sam, on Flickr Brake van (36) by Sam, on Flickr Brake van (35) by Sam, on Flickr 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 You are starting to build up a nice collection there. "... for the lead shot, im reusing the Slaters driving axle trays." I am not a great fan of lead shot as weight anyway but, when you have plenty of room, as in this van, why not use offcuts of lead flashing? It is very easy to cut up into suitably sized rectangles and glue them in place. In the quantities that we are likely to use, it is free - just ask a builder, on a building site, or at a builders merchant - a few square inches goes a long way. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 i had a loads for a while collected from the ground on a site i worked on a few years ago, its just about all used up now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 11, 2016 Author Share Posted December 11, 2016 (edited) while i'm putting off doing te gear boxes i can instead make a rolling chassis and finish off the Planet aesthetically. Buffers and hooks on Planet (91) by Sam, on Flickr i orginally drew the motor chassis with space between the ends for the buffer springs but found that i might not be able to fit the rear gearbox in between the rear axle and the end so instead the motor chassis will be full length and will snuggly fit inbetween the insides of the buffer beams Top left is a section through the chassis and bonnet to show what room i have to play with for the front motor & gearbox, top Right is the down view of the chassis, the drawing has since been changed to be full length, Bottom is of the gearbox looking from the end of the motor, Bottom middle is end view in the same elevation as the Section above and Bottom Right is a side view of the gearbox Planet (90) by Sam, on Flickr The chassis parts marked onto 2mm black styrene sheet, wheel bearing holes drilled out, and slots cut out of the end pieces for the hook drawbar and springs Planet (93) by Sam, on Flickr cut out Planet (94) by Sam, on Flickr Since i am using 2mm sheet, pieces have to cut out with the hack saw and my cutting is not prefect to the sides needed to be filed down to size slightly and to square, so to hold the two sides together perfectly drill bits were put through the bearing holes while they were clamped together and filed down Planet (98) by Sam, on Flickr And finally, the end pieces have lengths of 4mm square section glued on and the bearing holes and been sanded down to remove the drill burr and scoring ridges so that the bearings sit flush Planet (99) by Sam, on Flickr Edited December 11, 2016 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 (edited) just been given a scratchbuilt brakevan body, dont know what it is but slightly similar to the 1865 van built for the Midland, ive already started a question thread for it http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/117854-identity-of-1860-ish-brake-van-prototype/ Brakevan 2 (1) by Sam, on Flickr the buffers are sprung by leaf spring and the hooks by the leaf and coil springs, but here everything disconnected to remove the buffers and hooks for painting the stock and bufferbeams Brakevan 2 (3) by Sam, on Flickr Edited December 13, 2016 by sir douglas 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohmisterporter Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 An interesting wagon Sam, with dumb buffers as well as sprung buffers it looks like it was built for colliery work with chaldron waggons as well as main like runs with buffered wagons. I have seen one like it somewhere, but don't know where. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 It looks a nice basis for an interesting Model Sam. I am sure it isn't, but it reminds me of a GWR Tadpole fish wagon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 It looks a nice basis for an interesting Model Sam. I am sure it isn't, but it reminds me of a GWR Tadpole fish wagon. My initial thought as well! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Thinking ahead a bit for after the Planet is finished. The next loco i would like to build is Kerr Stuart 692 "Kynite" 0-4-2, basically an enlarged Skylark class, built for the Corringham light railway in 1901, withdrawn in 1919 and used as a stationary boiler until it's scrapping in 1952 I have now printed this plan to scale (source forgotten) 2 pics from the corringham light railway facebook page Taken during its time as a stationary boiler rear view (source forgotten) (source forgotten) The main problem will be the small driving wheels at only 2' 3" dia'. Slaters dont do any smaller than their manning wardles at 2' 8". But i have an idea which is only still an idea, Romford 4mm wheels have the same square ended axles for quartering as Slaters and Romford do 16mm dia' wheels which is close enough for 15.75mm for 2' 3", so the idea is that maybe i can put romford wheels on Slaters 1/8th axles 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 sometimes im not sure the wheels look as small as 2' 3", so i might go with 3' dia' instead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Love the toastrack coaches! Especially the one with the enclosed section. Found any drawings for them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 17, 2016 Author Share Posted December 17, 2016 no but it should be easy enough to make up a plan from narrow gauge toastracks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 Wheels look more like 2'9" to me. The centre-link of the buffers is usually around 3'3" to 3'6" from the top of the rails. (I think 3'5" was standard, but it varied). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 17, 2016 Author Share Posted December 17, 2016 On the drawing, when using the gauge as a scale, the wheels are indeed 2' 3" but look bigger because of the very low footplate which is lower than the buffers and they are lower than the normal 3' 5" . dont think we'll know for sure the exact measurements of Kynite without seeing original documents or drawings, and if they survive will most likely be at Armley Mills Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 just recieved my copy of The Corringham railway by I Gotheridge from Bill Hudson http://www.billhudsontransportbooks.co.uk/selected-product.php?prod=the+corringham+light+railway&pid=7265 This book also states the wheels as 2' 3" and states the wheelbase as 3' 9" and the trailing wheels as 1' 8", so 2' 3" it is then Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 having a go at lettering and numbering my wagons First try was brush painting within a stencil, second try was spray painting in the stencil, neither of these worked for me, so my third try this morning was drawing into the stencil with a mechanical pencil and then free hand brush painting onto those lines The stencils i made in styrene sheet numbering stencil by Sam, on Flickr 8 wagons and brakevan lettered on one side, some wagons had to be done with out the stencil as it wouldnt fit such as the 3 vans and the flat. They were done by free hand writing the lettering o n with the pencil and then painting over. Ive not yet decided on the numbers so they are not done Planet (103) by Sam, on Flickr numbering (2) by Sam, on Flickr numbering (3) by Sam, on Flickr Not much to report on the Planet, still not gearbox as im not enthusiastic about doing yet, but i last week i put the chassis together so it is at least a loco on its wheels, The "Halfmoon" plates that i was going to put on the aborted single fairlie build are now on the planet Planet (101) by Sam, on Flickr Planet (100) by Sam, on Flickr Planet (102) by Sam, on Flickr 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 I use a mapping pen for lettering. In my experience there is more control than with a brush. I also use thin poster paint as it can be easily removed if you're not happy with the result. Whatever, I like what you've done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 I used to have a stencilling set that had a brush with very short stubby bristles. Rather than brush paint on, the idea was to dab it on. The letters were cut so there was a bit left to connect the middle of ones with a hole, like your "R" or "O" (except on the ones that got broken!), that would need to be touched in with a brush. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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