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Gareth's Workbench: P4 and 2mmFS projects


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I'm all ears

Well, where to begin? At the very top I suppose...

The Great Bear

A Scott Atlantic

That one off S5 fish wagon with the guards cabose in the middle

A plan for using DCC to activate a slip coaches slipping gear (must be AJ compatible)

An idea for a cheap and simple fold up etched cleminson 6w coach for 19ft (9'6"x9'6") wheelbase.

A standard gauge tilt wagon

I coul go on...

D

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Well, where to begin? At the very top I suppose...

The Great Bear

A Scott Atlantic

That one off S5 fish wagon with the guards cabose in the middle

A plan for using DCC to activate a slip coaches slipping gear (must be AJ compatible)

An idea for a cheap and simple fold up etched cleminson 6w coach for 19ft (9'6"x9'6") wheelbase.

A standard gauge tilt wagon

I coul go on...

D

I did start the tilt wagon. I should finish it shouldn't I?

 

I was expecting an Armstrong 4-4-0 to be at the top of the list. Have they fallen out of favour?

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I did start the tilt wagon. I should finish it shouldn't I?

 

I was expecting an Armstrong 4-4-0 to be at the top of the list. Have they fallen out of favour?

It was more a flavour of ideas than a definitive list. For the record the Armstrongs (round topped and belpair parallel boilers versions are right after the Scott Atlantic but before the 3031s, Queen, Lady, Barnum, Duke, 3521, D0 boilered Aberdare and River which are on the definitive list...)

D

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It was more a flavour of ideas than a definitive list. For the record the Armstrongs (round topped and belpair parallel boilers versions are right after the Scott Atlantic but before the 3031s, Queen, Lady, Barnum, Duke, 3521, D0 boilered Aberdare and River which are on the definitive list...)

D

 

But none of these saw service on the North London. Wouldn't it be better for me to finish the Class 51, then build the Good tank, then sort out how best to model the Outside Cylinder engines? I've got a J13 to do as well, not to mention the MW as used by several of the dock companies. After that I can change eras (again) and finish off the PLA Austerity I've been working on.

I think your one company mindset is clouding your judgement. :nono:

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But none of these saw service on the North London. Wouldn't it be better for me to finish the Class 51, then build the Good tank, then sort out how best to model the Outside Cylinder engines? I've got a J13 to do as well, not to mention the MW as used by several of the dock companies. After that I can change eras (again) and finish off the PLA Austerity I've been working on.

I think your one company mindset is clouding your judgement. :nono:

I thought you wanted MY projects to fill YOUR time!!!! Not fill it yourself....

 

D

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  • 2 weeks later...

I felt like doing some scenery modelling, but I don't have a layout. So I'm working on a little scene instead. I built the garage probably 10 years ago, but the weathering and everything else in new. N scale (1:160) in 4"x6"

 

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I think the tree may be too big

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To compensate for a missing wheel, I made a jack. Should I make the drum brake too?

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Edited by garethashenden
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Are those GHQ car kits? They are the only company Ive been able to find which produce N scale cars of 20s-40s designs.

The blue one is GHQ, the one with the tree is Micro Engineering. I think they just call it "pickup truck".

Another manufacturer to look at is Micron Art. They do etched kits for Model Ts and a few other things including a lovely fire truck.

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To compensate for a missing wheel, I made a jack. Should I make the drum brake too?

IMG_8391_zpsxuibpufc.jpg

Very nice. Think I'd be tempted to add some suggestion of the brake drum, maybe some steering linkage too. Maybe a couple of small washers soldered together in a length of brass rod axle?
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  • 4 weeks later...

Back in Post #40 I made a reference to a GWR cattle wagon. Well, it's still not done but I have at least attached the body to the chassis. I used a Coopercraft W1/W5 kit, a Morgan Design chassis, MJT axleboxes, and buffers from ??? (ABS possibly). The roof support is also Morgan Design.

 

The chassis kit offers lever brakes, cross cornered DC brakes, and DC3 brakes. I wanted DC1 brakes with both handles at the same end. I did manage it in the end, but it doesn't have the swan necked lever that it should.

 

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I think the chassis is well thought out and the springing is effective. However, I'm not a fan of the choose-your-own-adventure style instructions. They cover the whole range of kits (20+) that, although similar, are different.  I feel that breaking them up into individual instructions would make them easier to follow.

 

I've also been working on a LBSCR open. Starting with Cambrian's D1369 I've been backdating it to a D1370.

 

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Edited by garethashenden
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What you have under the cattle wagon is the DC2 variant of the Dean Churchward brake. Legitimate but not very common and short-lived as they were easily converted to DC3 pattern to comply with the Board of Trade edict on right-handed bake operation.

 

Jim

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What you have under the cattle wagon is the DC2 variant of the Dean Churchward brake. Legitimate but not very common and short-lived as they were easily converted to DC3 pattern to comply with the Board of Trade edict on right-handed bake operation.

 

Jim

Weren't DC2 vacuum braked? They were fitted to China clay wagons. There is a single ended version of DC1 which is what I'm trying to do here. It is represented on the DC1 wagon chassis from the same designer. The right hand brake regulation is rather irrelevant to my c. 1905 period.

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Not by definition, although DC2 & DC3 were very easy to adapt to vacuum braking. At the start ofthe 20th century, most vacuum braked wagons with special types like the Fruit and Meat Vans, which had the carriage vacuum cylinder arrangements along with clasp brakes and, quite often a simple lever hand brake operating on one brake shoe only.

 

Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...

In an effort to finish up some projects, here's something I'm working on. An Austerity saddle tank in service with PLA mid to late '50s is the goal. I started with an old Airfix kit and the RT models chassis kit. I have done one of these before in EM using the Hornby body and the Airfix kit is a much better starting point. I'm using High Level hornblocks and a 80:1 Loadhauler+.

I borrowed an Avonside chassis jig from a friend to build the chassis. Aligning hornblocks is something I often have trouble with and it helped a lot. I'm seriously considering getting one for myself.
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Once I had the chassis assembled I put together the original Airfix chassis. I think the comparison between the two is quite interesting.
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Here's the mostly finished chassis.
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After this it sat untouched for about six months until today when I dug it out and attached the brakes. Brakes have to be one of my least favourite aspects of engine building. There's one locating pin but the have to be aligned in three axis. But they're done. I've also added the buffer beams and buffers. I need to take some pictures of that as well as the work I've done on the body. Tomorrow hopefully.

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Here are the up to date pictures I promised.
 

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The Airfix footplate is short to accommodate very thick bufferbeams. I measured it as 2mm short so I added a strip of .040" square styrene to each end. Turns out it's a little under 2mm, so that will need to be filed back. Here's the footplate and body perched atop the chassis.

 

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The chassis is now ready for paint and the body isn't far off either.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Back to Edwardian wagons...

 

LRM's LNWR Deal wagon. So far it's going together very well. Just needs the brakes and a few other details.

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I've finished building this and it has now been painted. Can anyone tell/show me where the diamonds are supposed to go? I'd like to get it off the to-do list...

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They go above the spring anchor points closest to the buffers according to the photo in lnwr wagons 1, although in that photo it also has LNWR lettering the full height of the side bar

I thought the deal wagon wasnt in vol 1.

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I thought the deal wagon wasnt in vol 1.

 

Its in the timber wagons section. Quite interesting as they had a varied life, with some being used for deal, some received 9 inch sides as an experiment, and some were re-labelled STEAM WAGON TRUCK which were then used to transport FODEN trucks

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