drduncan Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 What photo bucket mess? And what's a photo bucket? Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 (edited) What photo bucket mess? And what's a photo bucket? Duncan I've been hosting all my modelling photos (and car photos) on photobucket since about 2008. It was great for posting images to multiple forums and was free. A few days ago they changed their terms of service an no longer allow anyone to link images to other websites unless you pay them $399 a year. I'm currently attaching all the pictures for this thread directly to it, but I'll have to do that for everything I've ever posted. I had over 3000 pictures on there. So far it's taking about an hour per page... Edited July 1, 2017 by garethashenden Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 That's a pain... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 If you've got so many photos perhaps you need a photo barrow rather than a bucket... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 If you've got so many photos perhaps you need a photo barrow rather than a bucket... A barrow won't cover it either. More likely a skip. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 I've been trying to finish some projects (an starting new ones). I've put some transfers on some ex-PO wagons and I've got some 16 ton minerals ready for numbers. I also put some transfers on the Pressflo and a BR van. The new project is one of Stephen Harris' LNER steel opens. It was quite nice to build, I especially like the way the securing ring pockets are pressed out, very cleaver. There are almost enough spare parts on the etch to build another one, basically everything but the floor. I'll try that at some point. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Very nice. So with P4 and 2FS will there be two entries to the cameo competition? Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Very nice. So with P4 and 2FS will there be two entries to the cameo competition? Duncan Something like that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Tell us more, especially about the 2FS ideas. D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 Well it's been a while, but more work has been made on the Park tank. I started by making the cab front. I fitted it to the model, then realised that none of the body pieces were square to the footplate, so everything came off the footplate before being reattached in the proper position. After that I cut a rectangular piece to form the tank tops and fitted it. The most laborious step so far was in creating the top of the boiler between the tanks. I used 3/4" brass tube, a length of which was cut slightly longer than needed. I then cut a 1/3rd or so section out of the tube lengthwise, so that I had something with the correct curvature, but too high and too long. I cleaned up the edges with a file, then set about reducing the height of the section to fit the model. I used a piece of course (80 grit) wet and dry sandpaper on a piece of glass. This resulted in a nice flat bottom for the boiler, which is what I wanted. After a bit of sanding I realised that I was still well over a millimeter away, so I trimmed most of that from one side with a piecing saw. Then I went back to sanding, checking the fit against the model as I went. Once that was done I drilled a small hole in the cab front for the safety valve handle. I think I'm going to have to replace the dome though, it's a bit big. The diameter is fine, but the flare at the base it overdone and it's too tall. But that can wait for now. The last thing I've done is I've turned a smokebox inner from the same tube as the boiler. I will make a front and back for the smokebox that will fit to this ring, then it will get wrapped to form the correct shape. The smokebox is sitting too high at the moment, held in place by blutack... 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted September 20, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 20, 2017 (edited) Nice to see progress on this - thanks for sharing. If I may be constructively critical, I don't think you have enough boiler top there - looking at the photo of the real thing from a couple of pages back, the boiler occupies a larger area of the tank tops than it does on the model. The real thing is considerably wider, and it may not be possible to get more width on the model without more height, which will alter things like the relationship of the boiler to the windows and the cab front in general. Are the tanks the right height? Another thing (sorry!) is that you have lost the part of the tank front that sticks up above the boiler - that divides the boiler in two and acts as tank braces. This might mean you need a new tank front. A twenty-minute job but well worth it in the long run. EDIT: I wouldn't do the final shaping on this until you're happy with the final boiler fit. Then trim the protrusion down to be half a mill or so higher than the boiler curve. I hope these comments are helpful and taken in the spirit they're intended. Best, David. Edited September 20, 2017 by Daddyman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 There actually seems to be quite a bit of variation in the height from the tank tops to the boiler top. Looking at a number of pictures taken over several decades, the boiler height grew over the years, particularly in the BR era. Look at this LMS era engine, the top is almost flat. I think what needs to happen with the model is that the tank top needs to be lowered by something around 0.25mm. Finally, the brace between the two tanks will be made from strip or sheet. Thanks for your insight! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted September 20, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 20, 2017 Compelling... Good luck with all that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Look a very business like tank. I do like small tanks with outside cylinders. Lovely job you are making of it. I watch the progress with interest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 Compelling... Good luck with all that! I came across an interesting fact about the tank heights last night. While reading the GEM kt instructions, they state that the kt covers locomotives built after 1889 when the tank height was increased slightly. 58850 was the second locomotive built, in 1881, which is why the boiler sticks up higher than on some other engines. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 I never can seem to work one project through to completion. I'm always jumping around from one to another. So it's back to 4-4-0T number 109. I had disassembled most of the locomotive so that I could replace the screw in the smokebox with a nut. Well, I got it taken apart and then got distracted by some other project.A year and a half later...I haven't found a good way of ordering Alan Gibson wheels from the "wrong" side of the pond, so I had a friend collect a few at Scaleforum and send them on. These included P4 wheels for 109. The correct size is 5'11", 16 spoke. No one makes these, so the choices are 5'8" 16 spoke or 6'0" 18 spoke. I had gone with 5'8" 16 spoke with the EM version, because I thought that the wider flange would make up the difference and there were the right number of spokes. For the P4 version however, I have decided to go with the 6'0" 18 spoke option. I rebuilt the chassis with leftover P4 spacers from a RT Austerity kit. I then reassembled the body with the crucial nut in place. After that, I attacked the troublesome bogie. The prototype's bogie is an outside framed affair. The kit contained what I consider to be an odd way of constructing the bogie. There are two cosmetic outside frames, two functional inside frames, and a cross piece. All in all it's quite a flimsy design with virtually no bearing surface. It looked like this:What I came up with a design that is far simpler and stronger. I kept the outside frames, but got rid of the rest. I took a piece of fairly thick brass flat stock, about 1mm thick. I drilled two holes and joined them to make a slot with a piecing saw. This would let the bogie move from side to side, rather than just pivot around the mounting. I chose to use the pinpoint axles, rather than inside frames. Unfortunately, the outside frames have rectangular openings for the axleboxes, not round ones for bearings. I dug around in the spares box for a while and came up with some bearing carriers from some Bill Beford sprung w-irons. Bearings were fitted, but the hard part was lining up the bearings in the openings. The first one was easy, the other one on that side was measured 6' away and fitted. After this I stuck the sideframe to the crossmember. I added two pieces of rectangular brass tube to the ends of the crossmember to reinforce things a bit. The side with the bearings was fitted and a pair of wheels fitted. Predictably, the wheel hit the crossmember, so out came the piercing saw and the file. Once the wheels fit, I attached the other sideframe, making sure to keep the axles square with the sideframes. The bogie is square and doesn't rock on a glass surface, so I'm optimistic. Right now I have fitted a short length of brass tube between the bogie and the footplate to set the ride height. This isn't an ideal solution and is putting the front of the locomotive lower than it should be. I intend to fit both vertical and lateral springs, probably just lengths of phosphor bronze wire, to control the movement of the bogie, hopefully these can help regulate the height as well.Here is the underside of the bogie, hopefully it all makes sense.And the rest of the model: And with the Goods TankLots more to do. Bogie springs are probably first, then the cab interior. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 You are not alone ... Chris I never can seem to work one project through to completion. I'm always jumping around from one to another. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 You should see my pile of projects in progress.... D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 Well it's been a while since I've done any work on the A4, but suddenly I had the urge to get back to it. I have finished the tender under frame and started on the locomotive chassis. Everything has been going pretty well, I'm quite impressed with how well the kit is designed. I've decided to use the EM spacers for the main engine chassis to get a bit more side play for the drivers. I've got everything ready, so the wheels should go on the axles in the morning. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 And em flanges too, to make sure it doesn’t fall off P4 track???? Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 And em flanges too, to make sure it doesn’t fall off P4 track???? Duncan No! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 I've added the wheels and things are still going well. The 6 coupled chassis manages to get through the one really tight point on my layout, which was the goal. I still need to fit the crankpin bushes, but things are looking good. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Thinking about flangegate... it looks like the wonderful ‘downfall’ parody with Hitler ranting about em wheels on P4 track is no longer available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Thinking about flangegate... it looks like the wonderful ‘downfall’ parody with Hitler ranting about em wheels on P4 track is no longer available. Perhaps people got bored with it. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Some things never get boring... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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