RMweb Gold teaky Posted July 8, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 8, 2017 Nice to meet you today Jeff. (You too Andy.) Please post details of how you put together that goods shed followed by your forthcoming experiments with the mortaring method. I still can't believe you put those stones on individually! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 Evening Jonathan. Well spotted, that man! I must admit that I hadn't noticed the long mortar line. Thanks for pointing this out - it's an easy fix and I'll have a look at it at the start of next week. I could just paint the strips that I've laid on the existing roof section. But I must admit - bearing in mind that I've got a lot more roof to cover - that the tile packs you've linked to are very appealing. It'd cost me about £30 to tile the lot, so I think I'll go down that route. Now, a very relevant question - and I know there's a place in York that does them - where do I get my "fancy Midland" windows made, and how do I go about specifying the pattern? I'm assuming several of you - Mike? - will know the answer. Thanks, as usual, for your comments. Jeff EDIT: I've just checked the "other end" of the building. In the main (more than 90%) of the blocks are interlocked with the quoins. I must have had a mental aberration when I did this corner! Bill Bedford has done them as an etch for the Hawes goods shed. We had then commissioned from drawings we did on site. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Reorte Posted July 8, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 8, 2017 Good to meet you and others for real today, and to see at least one small part of Kirkby Luneside for real too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Anotheran Posted July 8, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 8, 2017 Great to finally meet you Jeff. You certainly kept my son amused for a while with the story about your eight 'sleepless' days! When we got home he told his mum about the man who called himself an idiot... so you've definitely left an impression. Kind regards, Neil 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 9, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2017 Thanks for all your comments. The Stafford meeting was fantastic and it was great to meet so many Lunesters. I've just got home and will give some more detailed replies/comments tomorrow. You are a great bunch of people and it was a pleasure to put faces to names! Jeff 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted July 10, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2017 And to think that you weren't even going to take the goods shed along! I knew it would go down well; at one point you had more people stood around you than we did on The Mill, it was like you were doing a stood-up demo. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 10, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) And to think that you weren't even going to take the goods shed along! I knew it would go down well; at one point you had more people stood around you than we did on The Mill, it was like you were doing a stood-up demo. Very true, Jason. It was a good suggestion of yours and I was amazed anyone had an interest in it. It's led to further contact with a number of people, so it was well worth taking! I'll be trying some DAS mortar over the next day or so and I'll post photos. Please be aware that I've had to go over to my dad's in Cumbria, as he's not feeling too good, so it may be a week or so before I can get back in the bunker. A number of people have asked me to post some step-by-step images of the shed build, so I'll oblige. May get some on here tomorrow. Jeff Edited July 10, 2017 by Physicsman 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 10, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) Ok, here's the first batch of construction pics. I used 4mm birch ply and cut the windows and doors out with a Stanley knife. It took a while. Yes, I could have used 2mm ply or card, but I like working with decent ply thickness and once braced it's unlikely to warp in a significant way. Jeff over-engineering, as usual. The pics are self-explanatory, but ask if anything's unclear. I'll put another batch up later tonight or in the morning. Jeff Edited July 10, 2017 by Physicsman 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 10, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2017 Here's a second batch, again self-explanatory. I think they'll convince Teaky that I really WAS insane enough to put stones on brick-by-brick.... DAS "mortar" will be mixed tomorrow and I'll be re-doing the roof when I get home. Jeff 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 GUILTY AS CHARGED Jeff. I must have missed the post that explained that you fitted the Bricks on individually, I thought it was scribed DAS. I hadn't realised that I was holding such a masterpiece on Saturday. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 10, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2017 GUILTY AS CHARGED Jeff. I must have missed the post that explained that you fitted the Bricks on individually, I thought it was scribed DAS. I hadn't realised that I was holding such a masterpiece on Saturday. Thanks Andy. Most people seem to think it's not a bad job. My best mate tells me I'm too self-critical, as I think it needs a bit of improvement.... Always fun to try and make things look better. And I have a (secret) back-up plan - but you'll have to wait a few weeks to find out. Heeeeheeeehahaha.... Btw, sorry about the coffee shower on Saturday. Even funnier as I didn't know you were telling the truth. Oh, bo**ocks! Jeff 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mulgabill Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Thanks Andy. Most people seem to think it's not a bad job. My best mate tells me I'm too self-critical, as I think it needs a bit of improvement.... Always fun to try and make things look better. And I have a (secret) back-up plan - but you'll have to wait a few weeks to find out. Heeeeheeeehahaha.... Btw, sorry about the coffee shower on Saturday. Even funnier as I didn't know you were telling the truth. Oh, bo**ocks! Jeff Not in your league of course, but my own recent buildings have led me to the theory that; modelling is like home decorating. Everybody that sees it thinks its great, but you just see every error, or bodge, that got it done. We all need to go a little easier on ourselves. Are there any clues how you are thinking of mortar? All the best TONY 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 10, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) Not in your league of course, but my own recent buildings have led me to the theory that; modelling is like home decorating. Everybody that sees it thinks its great, but you just see every error, or bodge, that got it done. We all need to go a little easier on ourselves. Are there any clues how you are thinking of mortar? All the best TONY Hi Tony. I think your theory has a lot of merit. Doing the job means you know where most of the faults are and we invariably focus on these rather than the overall impression. Thing is, I know that with a bit more care, and a bit more time, with no increase in "skill" level, I could have done a better job. Anyway..... I often use a DAS-PVA mix to fill in areas around the bases of my walls. So I'll be trying such a mix, along with a fine-ended screwdriver, to fill some of the gaps with the "mortar" mix. I can't see that I'll manage to fill all the gaps, but Jason and Scott are correct - the appearance of mortar in various places can only enhance the appearance. I'll post pics - even if it comes out badly! Jeff Edited July 10, 2017 by Physicsman 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sasquatch Posted July 11, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2017 The stone work is really good, well worth the extra effort involved. Just to confirm... you cut the 4mm ply with a Stanley knife??? ..Besides taking a while I bet your hand was sore? Regards Shaun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peach james Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Ah no, sorry I was meaning this bit: Jeff-Goods-shed-detail.jpg Al Goods Shed 10 by Peach James, on Flickr or GS3a by Peach James, on Flickr (I know Jeff has seen them before...) I thought for a moment when I saw it that the windows were way too wide...but apparently KS is different to Long Marton, and has one window per segment, rather than 2...and they are much wider. Jeff, if you can find an image of the side of the building, it should be possible to draw up artwork scaled to your building for the windows. Those windows are hateful things to try and make from plastic, I made one and quit 15 years ago. Etching is certainly the way to go, I think. James Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Reorte Posted July 11, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2017 I wouldn't worry about getting the windows Kirkby Stephen-like if it's awkward to compared to the others. After all Kirkby Luneside is only strongly based on Kirkby Stephen rather than being a direct copy of it so any Settle-Carlisle goods shed windows should be correct. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted July 11, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2017 Hi Jeff, Apologies if I've missed this in your latest Blue Peter episode .... "Today we're going to build a goods shed ... once you've put all the bricks on it looks something near, and here's one we did earlier!" .... but how are you actually creating the bricks? I know your using DAS clay, but are you just rolling it out, cutting into blocks of the right size, and then leaving to harden? I've only dabbled with DAS a couple of times, and haven't mastered really achieving anything with it yet. But I really like how that goods shed has come together. I built a two road engine shed for the O gauge layout last year, which was a two-layer MDF structure with a plasticard covering, but seeing how you've done this is giving me thoughts of having a go at another building, I do think the brickwork looks very realistic on there. Im assuming its just plain PVA glue your using to attach the DAS? Oh nearly forgot to say ... stunning work mate! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 11, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) Hi Rich. I'm over at my dad's and currently using a tablet to reply. I can get access to my laptop tomorrow, so I'll post-up some pics with an explanation of how I make the bricks. Jeff Edited July 11, 2017 by Physicsman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mulgabill Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Hi Tony. I think your theory has a lot of merit. Doing the job means you know where most of the faults are and we invariably focus on these rather than the overall impression. Thing is, I know that with a bit more care, and a bit more time, with no increase in "skill" level, I could have done a better job. Anyway..... I often use a DAS-PVA mix to fill in areas around the bases of my walls. So I'll be trying such a mix, along with a fine-ended screwdriver, to fill some of the gaps with the "mortar" mix. I can't see that I'll manage to fill all the gaps, but Jason and Scott are correct - the appearance of mortar in various places can only enhance the appearance. I'll post pics - even if it comes out badly! Jeff I too have stretched DAS with PVA at times, but for no specific use. But your reference to it reminds me that it seems a mix of PVA and that "sticks like nails" type stuff also works. Might be worth experimenting with for fixing the blocks/ mortar at the same time. Could also give a slight colour with acrylic paint I think, which might help geting them to sit right. Could save some time with the small screwdriver, and might be easier removing excess, rather than trying to insert retrospectively. Just let us know if it works. All the best Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted July 11, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2017 Hi Rich. I'm over at my dad's and currently using a tablet to reply. I can get access to my laptop tomorrow, so I'll post-up some pics with an explanation of how I make the bricks. Jeff Thanks Jeff, No rush. Safe journey back! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
67A Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Come on Jeff no cutting corners - everyone knows you apply mortar with a trowel Having no real idea how DAS works or is worked could you not just make a sloppy mix of Plaster of Paris tinted with some acrylic paint and just flood it on and gently wipe off the excess leaving enough to highlight the mortar lines. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 12, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 12, 2017 Rich, here's a link to the original version of the DAS stone-walling method I use. This is for the walls, not the brick facing, and - as mentioned in the link - I didn't invent the method, but have gradually adapted it to suit my own needs. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53448-kirkby-luneside-well-and-truly-plastered/page-254 The pics below show the new jig for the "wall bricks". The plastikard strips are all 80thou, giving a brick depth of 2mm. The pairs of strips are 2mm, 3mm, 4mm and 5mm apart, allowing stones of height 6", 9", 12" and 15" to be made. The clay is hand rolled into a "sausage", placed in the relevant gap (on top of a sheet of plastic) nd rolled out with a battery. An example 5mm strip is shown. This can then be cut to length to give whatever length brick you need. Usually 2 - 8mm (6" to 2'). Hope that is clear! Jeff 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted July 12, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2017 Rich, here's a link to the original version of the DAS stone-walling method I use. This is for the walls, not the brick facing, and - as mentioned in the link - I didn't invent the method, but have gradually adapted it to suit my own needs. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53448-kirkby-luneside-well-and-truly-plastered/page-254 The pics below show the new jig for the "wall bricks". The plastikard strips are all 80thou, giving a brick depth of 2mm. The pairs of strips are 2mm, 3mm, 4mm and 5mm apart, allowing stones of height 6", 9", 12" and 15" to be made. The clay is hand rolled into a "sausage", placed in the relevant gap (on top of a sheet of plastic) nd rolled out with a battery. An example 5mm strip is shown. This can then be cut to length to give whatever length brick you need. Usually 2 - 8mm (6" to 2'). Hope that is clear! Jeff Fascinating, how simple! Thanks Jeff. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PeterBB Posted July 12, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2017 Ingenious! Such a simple way to get the height and thickness. Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted July 12, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 12, 2017 Here's the upshot of my attempted "mortaring". I mixed a slurry of DAS in PVA glue and applied it with my fingers, rubbing the stuff into the bricks. The whole thing will need re-painting, and my only concern is that the PVA may seal the surface and prevent the new paint from taking. A rub-down of the brick surface with some fine sandpaper prior to painting may be a good idea. I'm still at my dad's and I brought "everything" I might need.....except the paint, so it'll have to wait until next week. Jeff 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now