DelticBlade Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 D8529 is blue yp (think it has catalogue 17023 or 17021) from the 1st batch. The Castle Cement liveried one is also a first batch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScRSG Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 I have to say that the model shop I have connections with, having tried to fix the Claytons as we tested them, decided to ask for and RECEIVED from Heljan a replacement chassis for every one originally ordered, so we were able to replace any chassis for a model sold in our shop if required. I regret to say that I suspect that some retailers did not ask for sufficient chassis, and as far as I remember this was a once only offer from Heljan. So if enough replacements were not asked for at the time the opportunity was lost. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted April 25, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 25, 2012 I have a D8568 in green off Ebay, haven't ran it yet as DCC needs removing, but is it likely to be OK or faulty? If faulty how easy to repair? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium EEType4 Posted April 25, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 25, 2012 Purchased a couple or poorly Claytons cheap via Ebay and carried out the following: Filed a small amount from the worm gear bearings in the top of the gear towers. This reduced some of the gear-train drag. Stripped the gear-trains, cleaned out the white grease & relubricated with a small amount of decent oil. Removed the flywheels from the original burnt out motors. Drilled out the flywheel centre hole to 2mm in order to fit onto a replacement motor. Replaced the motor with a Mashima 1624 can motor (Comet models £19.00). Fitted the original flywheels with loctite, making sure the overall motor/flywheel length is as per the original. Result: Performance is still reduced when stone cold although nowhere near as badly affected as the with the original set up. I can only presume there is still a degree of resistance within the gearing. Normal performance is achieved much more quickly than previously. Performance is always very smooth. Top speed is more than acceptable. The motor shows no signs whatsoever of overheating, even after prolonged roundy-round use of 1 hour or so. Both are fitted with Hornby R8249 decoders with no ill effects to the motor or decoder. Overall I am personally very happy with the outcome, especially as the total cost of each class 17 has been half the price of a new loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeremyC Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Purchased a couple or poorly Claytons cheap via Ebay and carried out the following: Filed a small amount from the worm gear bearings in the top of the gear towers. This reduced some of the gear-train drag. Stripped the gear-trains, cleaned out the white grease & relubricated with a small amount of decent oil. Removed the flywheels from the original burnt out motors. Drilled out the flywheel centre hole to 2mm in order to fit onto a replacement motor. Replaced the motor with a Mashima 1624 can motor (Comet models £19.00). Fitted the original flywheels with loctite, making sure the overall motor/flywheel length is as per the original. Result: Performance is still reduced when stone cold although nowhere near as badly affected as the with the original set up. I can only presume there is still a degree of resistance within the gearing. Normal performance is achieved much more quickly than previously. Performance is always very smooth. Top speed is more than acceptable. The motor shows no signs whatsoever of overheating, even after prolonged roundy-round use of 1 hour or so. Both are fitted with Hornby R8249 decoders with no ill effects to the motor or decoder. Overall I am personally very happy with the outcome, especially as the total cost of each class 17 has been half the price of a new loco. I carried out an almost identical repair some time ago to my Clayton [i think I used 1626 motor]. Interestingly mine is also quite slow when cold, but fine when 'warmed up' Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
benachie Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 I also tried a Mashima 1426 with similar results but I felt that, even when "warmed up" the top speed was too slow so I then fitted a High Level Lo-Rider bogie with excellent results. However, this is definitely not a mod to be undertaken lightly ubless you really like challenges. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D605Eagle Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 I've just been given a Ribble livery 17. It runs, but slowly. Now if I do what some on here have done and make the gear towers very free running, do you think the original motor will be ok? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEngineShed Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 You really just need to tear it down and give it a good work over, see how the motor runs once you have the gear towers sorted. I didn't care for the motor in my copy, it was noisy... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250BOB Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hi Guys.......I just bought a Mashima 1624 and am going to embark upon fitting this into the clayton. All your instructions seem fine, ie drilling flywheels, overall length etc.,, but I am a little unclear as to how the motor lays in the chassis, i.e. are the two connectors to the side, i.e. horizontal. Is there anything else I need to know about fitting the motor in this area. Thanks.................Bob. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D605Eagle Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 You really just need to tear it down and give it a good work over, see how the motor runs once you have the gear towers sorted. I didn't care for the motor in my copy, it was noisy... Its running very well now, goes quite fast, but boy is it noisy! I noticed when I was rebuilding that the motor is very coggy indeed. Is it only a 3 pole? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sh**meister Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Hi all, first post............ I bought an unmoded chassis off the 'bay' and have done the bush mod, taken the flanges of the bushes down to around the 0.25mm mark, but now when i run it it sounds horrendous. very pronounced gear grumble, and that was running it on my outdoor layout. I am wondering if the worm gear is now riding up the gear wheel. Anyone any ideas?? Ta all meister Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
benachie Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Hi Meister, Welcome! The bush problem was/is only one of many including weird lubricant which stops being glue only above 70F and a useless motor. Any combination of snags can apply to any loco. Even the later models are very slow runners. As I hinted in #276 above, I found the only satisfactory solution to be a complete alternative bogie. Good luck! Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted June 4, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 4, 2012 In a fit of post Showcase Mojo returning I finally got round to fitting the replacement chassis to my Clayton today, it had been sat on the shelf for best part of two years. A total rewire of the circuit board to remove all the suppression components, and cut two tracks to gain independant control of tail lights means I now have a working class 17 fitted with a Lenz silver. Only real issue is the headcode lights, as others have said, they really are awful aren't they? Has anyone come up with a satisfactory way of making the light more even across the whole headcode? Andi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alycidon Posted June 4, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2012 What I did with my two was to glue the light so that it was pointing upwards from below the headcode, then fixed some tin foil in a U shape from the bottom of the light to the top of the headcode, partly to difuse it and partly to stop the light leaking out of the grills on the bonnet. It's a bit fiddly but looks a whole lot better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D605Eagle Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 I just cut the wires to mine. In reality 99 out of 100 you couldn't see that a headcode was lit anyway except at night, and I dont run my layout in the dark. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250BOB Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 In a fit of post Showcase Mojo returning I finally got round to fitting the replacement chassis to my Clayton today, it had been sat on the shelf for best part of two years. A total rewire of the circuit board to remove all the suppression components, and cut two tracks to gain independant control of tail lights means I now have a working class 17 fitted with a Lenz silver. Only real issue is the headcode lights, as others have said, they really are awful aren't they? Has anyone come up with a satisfactory way of making the light more even across the whole headcode? Andi Andi, I just mounted the light on a lump of blu tac, about 1 cm back from the headcode panel...perfect. Bob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 To sort out the lights on my Clayton first I had a go at sticking some five thou plasticard to the Heljan led housing after I’d cut the front from the housing. Total failure as the light didn’t scatter through the plasticard as I’d hoped. MkII version was to solder 4 leds in series to some copperclad. To fit in the already modded housing and it works a treat. No resistors required as the four leds work perfect at 12 volts (I’m DCC) Might be a bit dim under DC until full power is applied. And before anybody says it… I know you shouldn’t series up leds but it ain’t going to explode and it works… A picture says a thousand…. And here are a few pics of my motor solution when it was in DC prototype mode. Works a treat… surprisingly… and clears the cab for a bit of detailing. Porcy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 8598 on platform 12, Manchester Piccadilly by Deadmans Handle, on Flickr 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 8598 on platform 12, Manchester Piccadilly by Deadmans Handle, on Flickr Why did you have to post that. I was quite happy to believe that I did not need a Clayton on a mid 1970s layout based in the Manchester area. The RTC Clayton is now on my must have list! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250BOB Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 (edited) Why did you have to post that. I was quite happy to believe that I did not need a Clayton on a mid 1970s layout based in the Manchester area. The RTC Clayton is now on my must have list! Good Luck Andy...hope you find a good one. It is a strange place to find a Clayton....I wonder how they found their way there..??? Bob Edited September 1, 2012 by 250BOB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
royaloak Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 8598 on platform 12, Manchester Piccadilly by Deadmans Handle, on Flickr That looks very much like an air brake pipe between the coupling hook and MU cable, the pipe with the white pipe running on top of the buffer beam, were any 17s fitted with Air/ dual brakes? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rail-Online Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 8598 spent quite some time on Longsight - I saw it there twice. No idea why though! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 double headed blue claytons on oil train at Grange over Sands, july 1968. http://www.flickr.com/photos/56249446@N06/8245473762/ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250BOB Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 double headed blue claytons on oil train at Grange over Sands, july 1968. http://www.flickr.co...N06/8245473762/ Dammit....that looks good, I shall have to get another one now...!!!!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 blue clayton at Tebay.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/holycorner/8334351272/ 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now