Marcus 37 Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 Washes mate but applied with the pin technique. Very fine brush touched into the recesses. You don't want it all over the place as it just darkens the overall shade of the paintwork where arguably you want the opposite. Heres a railfrieght 37 I did a while back. Notice that I did a pink fade on the red stripe too which is very common on red stripers. 2017-04-23_04-17-03.jpg Really nice buddy. What I like about your weathering is its lovely and subtle and not over done. The bogies look nicely done as it has brought out all the details. Whose weathering powders do use if you don't mind me asking. Cheers Marcus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Cheers matey. I actually use artists chalks ground up because its what I have in but I have used carrs and MIG in the past, MIG are superb but pricey. You pays your money I guess. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus 37 Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 Cheers matey. I actually use artists chalks ground up because its what I have in but I have used carrs and MIG in the past, MIG are superb but pricey. You pays your money I guess. Good tip about the artists chalks. Funnily enough I was looking at a box of them the other day in the art section in the range. I'll have to get some next time I go in. Cheers for the info. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Worth a try but they aren't quite as good as MIG or other dedicated powders mainly due to how fine they are ground. Colour options are very good though! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Module00 Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Operator error unfortunately Andy. Used a solvent based adhesive to apply the plastikard to the structure. It has seriously out gassed, So much so that in places its actually split the plastikard. If you look closely at the side of the shed and above the 37 you can see just how badly its warped. It was one of the first buildings I built so I'll put it down to experience. I like so much the cement dale or concrete and the building is realy good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus 37 Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 I've had a go at another victim tonight. The body was a bit ropey in the first place due to a partial repaint and the adding of the construction transfers. Not quite so dirty this time. It was a bit easier on the lighter colour to see how much paint was left on the body. Still plenty more to do but here's a couple of pictures so far. Again comments welcome. Cheers Marcus 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Well for me the body could do with a going over with the cotton buds (are you using acrylic or enamel on the bodyside?). As for the bogies the coverage looks good but I'm not a fan of the reddish rusty colour you have used. It looks too rusty for my liking rather than track dirt and brake dust. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus 37 Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 Hi Cav Yeah, got to go over the bogies again. Definitely looks to red. It didn't look that red in the jar. The body side has been done with the cotton buds. The patch by the name plate has been brush painted in the past and the paint seems to have stuck more as the surface isn't so smooth. I'm using acrylics at the moment as I can wash it off if need be. Do you use a damp cotton bud or dry as I seem to be using lots of cotton buds at the moment much to my wife's disgust. Cheers Marcus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 I use enamels and a very slightly damp with thinners cotton bud for the surface film/streaking. Acrylics dry way too fast to do it properly. Thats why I asked as I could see it was acrylics. If you want to do it with acrylics you need to use proper acrylic thinners and a retarder to stop it going off. Acrylics certainly have their weathering uses but that part of the job is best done with enamels for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus 37 Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 Ah right. Might have to get me some enamels then. Which producer of paints do you use, what colours do you recommend and finally what consistency of paint do you use for the washes . Sorry so many questions but this is a steep learning curve. Cheers Marcus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Horse Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Hiya Marcus, I think you're being brave and doing alright, there seems to be so many techniques out there I never really know really what to use for what I want to achieve. All I can add with my very limited experience is that I too have found acrylics dry far too fast and have since tended to use enamel washes for wiping vertically downwards with cotton buds. I hope you don't mind me posting a couple of pics here, these spoil wagons I felt went quite well although 2 of them were factory weathered and I added my washes on top However I recently turned my attention to the Hornby Ferryvan and tried the same process. Although I'm reasonably happy with the result, be careful as obviously I had made the wash too thin and it started removing the printed details.......hopefully I stopped just in time. I think this might still need a dusting with and airbrush but I just though I'd warn you what I found obviously can happen.......BTW, the chassis hasn't been looked at yet.....HaHa!!!!! 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted April 24, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 24, 2017 (edited) Hi Marcus, are you using washes, neat paint, or dry brushing? For acrylics I would suggest a very dilute wash of one part paint to at least 10 parts water. Apply a loaded brushfull and then immediately remove as much as you can by dabbing with a tissue, then wait 5 minutes for it to dry. Repeating this a few times slowly builds up pigment only in the crevices and gaps where real dirt would gather. Cheers, Al. Edited April 24, 2017 by acg_mr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus 37 Posted April 25, 2017 Author Share Posted April 25, 2017 Hiya Marcus, I think you're being brave and doing alright, there seems to be so many techniques out there I never really know really what to use for what I want to achieve. All I can add with my very limited experience is that I too have found acrylics dry far too fast and have since tended to use enamel washes for wiping vertically downwards with cotton buds. I hope you don't mind me posting a couple of pics here, these spoil wagons I felt went quite well although 2 of them were factory weathered and I added my washes on top Spoil consist.JPG Spoil consist 2.JPG However I recently turned my attention to the Hornby Ferryvan and tried the same process. Although I'm reasonably happy with the result, be careful as obviously I had made the wash too thin and it started removing the printed details.......hopefully I stopped just in time. I think this might still need a dusting with and airbrush but I just though I'd warn you what I found obviously can happen.......BTW, the chassis hasn't been looked at yet.....HaHa!!!!! Ferryvan Weathering Stage 1.jpg Thanks Adrian. You're the second person to warn me about using enamels and what they can do to the printed details. That's why I've asked Cav about which paint manufacturer he uses. I'm like you, there is a lot of different techniques out there and it all gets a bit confusing. Cheers Marcus. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Its incredibly rare to take factory decals off with enamels. I actually use thinners to get decals off when changing numbers and such and you have to scrub pretty hard for a long time to get them off. The only manufacturers I have had issues with are Dapol and Heljan. They come off pretty easily with thinners but you shiuld be ok doing a light wash. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus 37 Posted April 25, 2017 Author Share Posted April 25, 2017 Hi Marcus, are you using washes, neat paint, or dry brushing? For acrylics I would suggest a very dilute wash of one part paint to at least 10 parts water. Apply a loaded brushfull and then immediately remove as much as you can by dabbing with a tissue, then wait 5 minutes for it to dry. Repeating this a few times slowly builds up pigment only in the crevices and gaps where real dirt would gather. Cheers, Al. Its incredibly rare to take factory decals off with enamels. I actually use thinners to get decals off when changing numbers and such and you have to scrub pretty hard for a long time to get them off. The only manufacturers I have had issues with are Dapol and Heljan. They come off pretty easily with thinners but you shiuld be ok doing a light wash. Which paint manufacturer do you use. It was specifically Humbrol that Aymrg of this parish warned me about. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Good stuff Marcus, I've used railmatch enamels for the wipe off system. Roof dirt, frame dirt, and rail black 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 I've found that all work the same in that application. I do find that white spirit works well as a thinner though and is cheaper and less harsh. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowlander Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 (edited) Which paint manufacturer do you use. It was specifically Humbrol that Aymrg of this parish warned me about.Hi Marcus Sorry! I should have specifically have said that I had had problems previously with the Humbrol range of weathering washes. They dissolved the factory fitted transfers on more than one of my models. It may have just my luck though. I would agree that enamels are your best bet for weathering. I usually use Precision paints myself. I also use the Vallejo range of paints etc. The Mig weathering powders etc are very good. They are that bit dearer, but last for ages. I would encourage you too have a look at whatever military modelling websites that you can find. YouTube is also a very good place to find them. These guys have some great ideas and their range of skills and tips bring a whole lot of new ideas to railway modelling. Regards Stephen Edited April 26, 2017 by ayrmrg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bescotbeast Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Thanks Adrian. You're the second person to warn me about using enamels and what they can do to the printed details. That's why I've asked Cav about which paint manufacturer he uses. I'm like you, there is a lot of different techniques out there and it all gets a bit confusing. Cheers Marcus. I'm old school myself and plumb for Humbrol enamels for my own weathering attempts. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus 37 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share Posted April 26, 2017 Thanks for the helpful and useful comments chaps. Unfortunately I'm on back to back 12 hour shifts this week so modellings out the window I'm afraid. Attention will return to 37411 at the weekend. Cheers Marcus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Realy like your 37411 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Morning Marcus, Good to have a chat on the phone last night, and I'm sure with a little practice you will be doing as good a job with the weathering as you do with the Buildings and Scenic's on here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shed Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Great work on the building Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus 37 Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 Great work on the buildingCheers Shed. Sorry so long for the response. Morning everyone. Sorry no updates recently. Been soooooo busy it's been unbelievable. Work and play has been getting in the way of modelling like this weekend again. If any ones visiting the SVR gala I shall be driving our 66 today and tomorrow. Please don't be shy and come up and say hello if you are around. Always up for a chat. I was also lucky enough to deliver the convoy to the Valley on Tuesday. A few pictures below And a quick couple of PDW. I've still been playing as you can see. Cheers for now Marcus 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted May 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 19, 2017 Glad to see a post from you Marcus, and some great photos, both of the real thing and the layout. Al. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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