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Laying track - the laser mans way


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  • RMweb Gold

One way to get perfectly straight track is to use a cheap laser level, this also shows how we use superglue to "pin" track down

 

This technique was used when we extended the fiddle yard on Charlotte Road :-

 

We used a templot printout to get the rough position

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And then the laser ensured straight track

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The track is glued into place, temporarily held down by weights ( the paper nozzle was temporary whilst I took the shot!)

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  • RMweb Gold

You've reminded me to get a cheap laser level for myself with this thread, Dave, because it would certainly help laying the remaining straight track on the new DRAG test track.

...and you can also use it to blind obnoxious rivet counters at your next exhibition smile.gif

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You've reminded me to get a cheap laser level for myself with this thread, Dave, because it would certainly help laying the remaining straight track on the new DRAG test track.

 

We tried that when marking out the alignments Tim, but we couldn't get a decent clear line from the laser (and mine looks similar to the one in the photos). Dave, any special trick in achieving that?

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Rod,

 

remember "cheap" is a comparative term, the one we used cost ??40 - cheap compared to the professional ones but not pennies, I suspect that's the issue, cheaper ones don't have the glass to keep the beam on track :rolleyes: :blink: :) .

 

hth,

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  • RMweb Gold

Hmm, question is, do I want to spend ??40..... although it would be a great way to deal with the other 5 boards...

 

Sounds like the ideal sort of tool for DRAG to buy and then lend out to members, hint hint....

 

 

I know that I'm thinking about going down this route if/when I build the next layout

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  • RMweb Gold

Hmm, question is, do I want to spend ??40..... although it would be a great way to deal with the other 5 boards...

 

As i said in the old place :blink: "The price is forgotten long after the quality remains" :)

 

You could buy one between you all and make it a "DRAG/SWAG/xxAG" one ?

 

Would it be possible to use the Laser Guide one finds on some circular saws and the like?

Just a thought as it would at least mean getting two tools for the price (Yorkshireman mode on!!)

 

Not sure - the issue tends to be the spread of the light, and over the length of a circular saw it will be acceptable, but over several (more) feet it (might) becomes an issue - it would need looking at but could be a winner for you Yorkies :D

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  • RMweb Gold
You could buy one between you all and make it a "DRAG/SWAG/xxAG" one ?

Good idea matey, although I'm not sure about sharing stuff with the 'x' rated part of the group.... :lol:

 

We were actually considering buying a Noch Obergrassenhausenmeister between the Area Group members...

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remember "cheap" is a comparative term, the one we used cost ??40 - cheap compared to the professional ones but not pennies, I suspect that's the issue, cheaper ones don't have the glass to keep the beam on track

 

If brightness is an issue there are green lasers available now, quite cheaply, on ebay. Our eyes are a lot more sensitive to the green than red (50X), thus for the same laser power level, there is a huge difference in brightness. I haven't seen the green ones used in tools yet, but a lump of clay and a green laser pointer might be a cheap option.

 

The green laser I purchased, which is the standard 5 mw power rating, leaves a visible beam in the air in all but sunlight...

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  • RMweb Premium

Would a mirror at the other end of the straight assist?

 

Maybe - Normon Solomon uses a mirror to assist in laying straight track by eye, and it works very well. But be careful when using a Laser at the same time, because the Laser will be reflected back at you - and a Laser in the eye isn't funny.

 

Brian

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Hi all,

 

Nice idea. Although the thought of ??40 being cheap isn't in my book of 101 bargains :rolleyes:

 

A cheaper method I've thought of which might yield similiar results would be to use one of those laser pointers that you see teachers and lecturers using. The theory being that if you mark out the start point (A) and finish point (B) of your straight rail you can securely place the pointer at (A) and adjust it so that the beam hits a marker at (B). A bit like a brickies plumb line when he's building a wall.

 

See what you all think ;)

 

best regards,

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

Nice idea. Although the thought of ??40 being cheap isn't in my book of 101 bargains :rolleyes:

 

A cheaper method I've thought of which might yield similiar results would be to use one of those laser pointers that you see teachers and lecturers using. The theory being that if you mark out the start point (A) and finish point (B) of your straight rail you can securely place the pointer at (A) and adjust it so that the beam hits a marker at (B). A bit like a brickies plumb line when he's building a wall.

 

See what you all think ;)

 

best regards,

 

Re "Cheap" - you are mixing something which is a few pounds which is financially cheap with something which is about half the price of a professional equivalent, which is cheap, as I have already explained :huh:

 

The teaches laser stick may work, give it a go and report back :icon_idea:

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Guest jim s-w

Indeed Dave

 

Things can cost a lot but be superb value or cost little and be a rip off.

 

 

Even at ??40 if you value your time at as little as a fiver an hour, this method only has to save you a mere 8 hours of marking out and it pays for itself.

 

Cheers

 

Jim

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Hi,

 

don't get me wrong I didn't mean to have a go. But for someone like myself who is building a small layout with hardly any straight line trackwork anywhere, judging by 'eye' and a straight edge will suffice.

 

I was thinking of the other members who are lucky enough to have the space and who need to build lots of straights. Like you say ??40 is cheap compared to the professional version, but not so cheap if you have a limited budget and every penny needs to be spent wisely.

 

Mind you saying all that just find someone who already owns one and ask to borrow it for a DIY project :rolleyes:

 

best regards,

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I know the topic is about the horizontal alignment of trackwork, but once the trackworks all down then....

 

I have used a Laser Level to check that the baseboards are level, both at home and at Exhibitions.

 

I can't remember how much it was, but certainly not around the ??40 mark, I should say ??10 + in somewhere like Lidl's. And it's been excellent value for money - it has even been useful for shelves etc!!!!

 

I set the Laser level on the track at one end of the layout, making sure the 'bubble' reads level, then run a wagon up the layout checking the beam's position on the wagon is constant - or of course start adjusting up or down. This photo shows a Laser dot, but it can also be a thin horizontal line.

 

I do have 7 baseboards plus a fiddle yard at each end, overall 31' in length, so some checking is needed.

 

Penlan

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Reading the earlier posts and giving some little thought to the Laser Beam ........

It had not occurred to me to use the level on it's side with the thin wide beam to mark out a straight line in the baseboards, but here's how mine would look - OK not on a straight length of track, I haven't got any, but it shows the principle.

 

 

Penlan

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