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A New Home needs a good shed !


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It's update time 

Well all the painting of the ply sides has been completed so I have started installing the ceiling . My original idea for the ceiling material was to use 6mm ply board but having pondered this over the course of lining the walls I was not sure that it was going to be the best solution. My main concern was the installation on this 'billy no mates ' build plus I had found a couple of areas where the frame is no ' quite' perfect as far as straight edges and I could see this causing problems in the ceiling area. Another good reason was the thought of 3 coats of emulsion on 32sq metres of ceiling ......... :nono:  :scared: So whilst at the buildings merchants the other day I picked out some V-jointed tongue and groove 13x100mm which came in 3mm lengths. My main thoughts have been that installation is going to be much easier on my own and working around any un-square parts will be simple plus the finished ceiling will look good. Yes i know the cost is higher but I can keep wastage to a minimum with it being T&G . 

 

This is the progress to date:

 

post-5136-0-52722300-1440709258.jpg         post-5136-0-38132200-1440709298.jpg  post-5136-0-42184800-1440709319.jpg

 

Above the ceiling I am going to line with loft insulation

 

Just as a little diversion I had a delivery today of the Hornby Railroad  Crosti 9F which I promised myself as soon as i heard that it was going to be produced...... well I think the layouts going to big enough and i know some of the Birkenhead based loco's passed through the triangle at Chester Northgate but I have no evidence of any on shed their. 

To be fair it's an impressive model considering it's aimed at the train set market although I really can't get my head around that fact. Certainly some extra detailing and weathering and it's going to look the part. 

 

post-5136-0-52374200-1440710104.jpg          post-5136-0-17413200-1440710133.jpg      post-5136-0-30730800-1440710167.jpg

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Looking good, make sure the T&G is pushed up tight when you fix it as it will undoubtably shrink a small amount.

 

Thought about a finish to it ? there are some pretty good water based sealers/varnish which apply nicely. I always fit oak doors in the new builds and use a satin finish one (Sadolin) looks good and it's proved hard wearing, although I'd shop around as for a large area it could be a bit pricey. 

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Thanks for that tip Dave, putting up this ceiling is a bit like your trackwork never ending. The quick realise clamp are invaluable for this job as I can level the lengths up before tapping them in with a rubber hammer before screwing into place. 

I've got some Ronseal varnish for the finish from some work in the house but not sure that there's enough to complete, it's now with jobs like this that I have realised how big an area this shed covers. 

You know what they say ' be careful what you wish for ' :scratchhead:

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Why not do the ceiling in Danish Oil - looks excellent on pine IMHO (I made a display cabinet some years ago and finished it with Danish Oil - I can upload piccies if interested) and very,very easy to use). It keeps the colour of the pine without ending up with that "varnished wood" effect).

 

HTH

polybear

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Why not do the ceiling in Danish Oil - looks excellent on pine IMHO (I made a display cabinet some years ago and finished it with Danish Oil - I can upload piccies if interested) and very,very easy to use). It keeps the colour of the pine without ending up with that "varnished wood" effect).

 

HTH

polybear

that sounds interesting

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Are you going to put in an access hatch in the ceiling?

I did think of that but unlikely at the moment The tounge and grove is only 13mm x 100mm so apart from the load of the insulation which is rock wool it has no load bearing properties to be honest and there's certainly no where to crawl too 

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I know just what you mean, mine was only !!  24sq metres of ceiling and it seemed like Hadrians Wall. Yours must seem more like the Great Wall of China.

Coming along nicely though.

Regards,Derek.

You dead right there Derek just pasted the half way point today and have managed to lay the insulation above it so we getting there I think. It's all the up and down the ladders that's tiring to be honest. The whole length of the ceiling takes two full lengths with a 175cm end piece so there's minimum cutting fortunately, then every so often I use the shorter lengths as in fills just to save the waste. 

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Excellent work so far, just a thought, it's worth thinking about your final finish on the t&g in respect of flammability ( sorry to put a damper on your work). Hopefully you'll never be in the situation but with the finishes elsewhere providing some safety it's worth considering your ceiling. I appreciate that it's not a habitable building as such but with the proposed layout it's worth the cost for piece of mind.

I'm offering this advice as a retired Building Control Officer and fellow railway modeller, I hope you don't mind ?

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Excellent work so far, just a thought, it's worth thinking about your final finish on the t&g in respect of flammability ( sorry to put a damper on your work). Hopefully you'll never be in the situation but with the finishes elsewhere providing some safety it's worth considering your ceiling. I appreciate that it's not a habitable building as such but with the proposed layout it's worth the cost for piece of mind.

I'm offering this advice as a retired Building Control Officer and fellow railway modeller, I hope you don't mind ?

Yes your right there OMG I think I would die if that happened after all this work. I suppose it's a risk we all take for granted to be honest. I do intend to put all the electric's in surface mounted trucking rather than having wires hidden within the walls always a risky area. My youngest son is an electrician so he will be making sure the all the correct trips are in place and I'm one of those people who tends to be over the top when it comes to double checking soldering irons etc. 

As regards to the habitable building bit someone did say it looked like a holiday home in Wales which give me ideas :jester:  

Thanks for the warning though 

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I did think of that but unlikely at the moment The tounge and grove is only 13mm x 100mm so apart from the load of the insulation which is rock wool it has no load bearing properties to be honest and there's certainly no where to crawl too 

I wasn't thinking of storage, or your wandering around, more like the need to get some access at some time - e.g. to pump up something nasty to eliminate nest building wasps and the like.  Sometimes a hatch is useful, even if ceiling is not strong enough for your weight, you may be able to shove up a small child to get to the far corner, if needed.

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I wasn't thinking of storage, or your wandering around, more like the need to get some access at some time - e.g. to pump up something nasty to eliminate nest building wasps and the like.  Sometimes a hatch is useful, even if ceiling is not strong enough for your weight, you may be able to shove up a small child to get to the far corner, if needed.

I thought the practice of 'shoving up small children into confined spaces' ceased in the early part of the 19th century. :jester:

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I thought the practice of 'shoving up small children into confined spaces' ceased in the early part of the 19th century. :jester:

Listening in as a visitor in Lincoln Crown Court on Friday, it certainly still happens in some parts of the country !  :O  :nono:

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Just found this excellent topic which will really help when I do my railway room and workshop, hopefully next year. Before that there is the small matter of a cottage that needs renovating.

 

Searching for "shed" or variations on that on this site tends to throw up loco servicing facilities rather than self-builds!

 

Am I right in thinking there isn't a ridge beam running the length of the building, rather the trusses are joined one by one?

 

The truss jig is an great idea that I will pinch.

 

It's too late for you, but an idea I saw on here for security (Jenny Emily, I think) was to put a layer of ckicken wire in the walls to make cutting and climbing through them difficult.

 

Dave, your comments have been really helpful too, especially about cladding. I always thought overlap was cheap and cheerful, suitable for storage rather than a fully weatherproof space. I was heading towards tongue and groove.

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It's too late for you, but an idea I saw on here for security (Jenny Emily, I think) was to put a layer of ckicken wire in the walls to make cutting and climbing through them difficult.

 

 

Oh yes...I've wired mine to 3 phase..... :jester:

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My son-in-law recently built a workshop with feather-edge boards on the outside and plywood on the inside.  With a slate roof.  He is a builder and keeps a lot of tools in there.  He has not been able to get insurance at a reasonable price; not because of the fire risk but because the insurance companies think it is more open to theft.  So bear that in mind you potential railway room builders.  I built my workshop/office/railway room with concrete block walls (which is probably cheaper than timber) and have not had any problem with insurance.  I think the only advantage of timber is that it can be classed as a temporary building and may (subject to floor area) be exempt from planning consent.

 

Mike

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My son-in-law recently built a workshop with feather-edge boards on the outside and plywood on the inside.  With a slate roof.  He is a builder and keeps a lot of tools in there.  He has not been able to get insurance at a reasonable price; not because of the fire risk but because the insurance companies think it is more open to theft.  So bear that in mind you potential railway room builders.  I built my workshop/office/railway room with concrete block walls (which is probably cheaper than timber) and have not had any problem with insurance.  I think the only advantage of timber is that it can be classed as a temporary building and may (subject to floor area) be exempt from planning consent.

 

Mike

Hi Mike.

 

On the first bit, sadly it wouldn't matter whether they were in a shed or the Tower of London, insurance companies don't like insuring tools as they are just too easy to take. I roll all my insurance up into a contractors  policy which includes things like the digger, tools on site as well as the part built building, but try as hard as I can I can't get them to add them when they are stored at home. I pay £550 a year for that.

For the second part, not strictly true, as ever getting a letter from planning saying what you can or can't do. 

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Just found this excellent topic which will really help when I do my railway room and workshop, hopefully next year. Before that there is the small matter of a cottage that needs renovating.

 

Searching for "shed" or variations on that on this site tends to throw up loco servicing facilities rather than self-builds!

 

Am I right in thinking there isn't a ridge beam running the length of the building, rather the trusses are joined one by one?

 

The truss jig is an great idea that I will pinch.

 

It's too late for you, but an idea I saw on here for security (Jenny Emily, I think) was to put a layer of ckicken wire in the walls to make cutting and climbing through them difficult.

 

Dave, your comments have been really helpful too, especially about cladding. I always thought overlap was cheap and cheerful, suitable for storage rather than a fully weatherproof space. I was heading towards tongue and groove.

Glad you have found my ramblings of use, would not say that it's text book shed building but it seems to have worked and if it spurs fellow modellers to find a home for their layouts then it's been worth doing. 

You right I did not use a ridge beam in the roof as the truss's were made separately just been my way of doing it to be honest. 

Best of luck for when you start yours 

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My son-in-law recently built a workshop with feather-edge boards on the outside and plywood on the inside.  With a slate roof.  He is a builder and keeps a lot of tools in there.  He has not been able to get insurance at a reasonable price; not because of the fire risk but because the insurance companies think it is more open to theft.  So bear that in mind you potential railway room builders.  I built my workshop/office/railway room with concrete block walls (which is probably cheaper than timber) and have not had any problem with insurance.  I think the only advantage of timber is that it can be classed as a temporary building and may (subject to floor area) be exempt from planning consent.

 

Mike

Security / insurance is for all a worry in this day and age and although this area of North Wales is regarded as low risk by the insurance companies doesn't mean that a break in won't happen. I will be installing an alarm system within the building as well as a CCTV system. Most of the properties along the lane here have CCTV installed and it's felt that collectively it makes for good security being fairly remote. 

The use of timber was mainly for planning permission to be honest as this area is classed as ' An Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty'  ( a good yogote knitters term ) and timber is looked upon more favourably  

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Just completed the ceiling and have to say I'm pleased and feel that the tongue and groove has been well worth the extra cost and effort, it has set a nice clean environment for modelling in.

 

post-5136-0-67799300-1441717699.jpg                        post-5136-0-77871000-1441717710.jpg

 

                                                                    post-5136-0-65726900-1441717730.jpg

 

The next job is to lay out the joists for the insulated floor which will be topped with chip board floor panels and once the walls have a final coat of emulsion and the electrics have been fitted I intend to complete the floor area with wood laminated flooring. It will then be a matter of sorting out all the junk that I have collected over the years and then start on the completion of the adjoining workshop area . To achieve this the main railway room will have to became a storage and sorting area for a while so that I can organise the layout of the new workshop.

 

The project is at that stage were completion is getting very close but progress to me now seems slow, gone are the days of dramatic one day build results instead one can spend hours working on small bits and pieces without completing any one job in a day. 

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