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DCC Concepts - OO Gauge bullhead turnouts


Nick Holliday
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Apologies for the thread necromancy, but do we know any more about the DCC Concepts (Legacy Models?) points yet? I'm looking for layout planning type information - approximate length of point, departure angle, etc...

 

It has been stated, in a non-committal sort of way, that it will be a B-7 turnout, or something like one*. There have also been suggestions that the gauge will be tightened a bit for better running, although maybe not to 00-SF. Likewise suggestions that the track centres will be correct to 45mm (Peco is 2" / 51mm).

 

Here is a B-7 in 00-SF with generic crossing. The crossing angle is 1:7. The overall length to the mid-point of a crossover at 45mm centres is 282mm:

 

post-1103-0-74410600-1481795255.png

 

The DCC Concepts turnout may look like this. Or not.

 

* see: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110254-dcc-concepts-oo-gauge-bullhead-turnouts/&do=findComment&comment=2274283

 

Martin.

Edited by martin_wynne
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Congratulations to DCC concepts for having the courage to produce fine scale track & points. As Richard says- just let us get on with it ! So leave them alone to do thiis -if you've seen Frozen then "Let it Go" !

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Congratulations to DCC concepts for having the courage to produce fine scale track & points. As Richard says- just let us get on with it ! So leave them alone to do thiis -if you've seen Frozen then "Let it Go" !

Nonsense , we can discuss what we like , thanks for the back seat modding

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Congratulations to DCC concepts for having the courage to produce fine scale track & points. As Richard says- just let us get on with it ! So leave them alone to do thiis -if you've seen Frozen then "Let it Go" !

 

Not a good start to be telling RMweb members what they can and can't discuss in your very first post.

 

Martin.

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Congratulations to DCC concepts for having the courage to produce fine scale track & points. As Richard says- just let us get on with it ! So leave them alone to do thiis -if you've seen Frozen then "Let it Go" !

 

 

Top marks for DCC Concepts entering the track arena, especially as they have slightly bucked the trend by using stainless steel rail.

 

BUT  Whilst they seem to think soldering leads etc to the rail is easy, some who have bought the product seem to be having issues, good to know if there are any issues also whilst after reporting turnouts will be available soon, in the absence of any other information there will be speculation. The easy way to stop all this is to keep potential customers informed. And advise on solving the soldering issues

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Top marks for DCC Concepts entering the track arena, especially as they have slightly bucked the trend by using stainless steel rail.

 

BUT  Whilst they seem to think soldering leads etc to the rail is easy, some who have bought the product seem to be having issues, good to know if there are any issues also whilst after reporting turnouts will be available soon, in the absence of any other information there will be speculation. The easy way to stop all this is to keep potential customers informed. And advise on solving the soldering issues

Well I haven't  found it necessary to alter my soldering technique. 450C Temperature Controlled Iron with 3mm chisel bit, Rapid Lead Free solder and flux from Building 0 Gauge Online. The only use I have found for the DCC Concepts flux is in soldering normal steel rail, blackens it a bit but doesn't rust. Hot iron with decent sized bit is necessary for a quick "in and out" to avoid melting anything plastic, heatsinks are also useful just to be on the safe side.

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There are no soldering issues, use lead/tin solder, or if experienced pure tin, and use the proper flux, Baker's, which is G/teed to work, if it does not then you need a course in soldering.....

 

People do have issues in practice, but they are simply using the wrong technique, heat, iron, tips, or Flux, or any combination you care to name.

 

A well tinned iron of at last 40Watts, fitted with a steel or nickel tip, heated up and dipped in flux to clean it, then tinned with lead/tin solder, will always work. lead free solder will work, but the temperature is much higher..

 

Stainless steel protects itself from the atmosphere by developing a skin of hard oxide on the nickel content of the objects. This skin is best breeched by Bakers Fluid, although Carrs list a special flux. I have tried them all over the years and it always come back to Bakers fluid.from Fryes

 

Stephen.

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A very generous friend bought me boxes of DC Concepts flexible track, but I'm afraid it has several issues and I avoided using it as much as I could. While it's thin sleepers were ideal for sinking in ash ballast goodsyards, the rail was barely held in the chairs and I had one length where the rail simply fell out to the floor.  Soldering electrical wires to is is nowhere close to being as easy as soldering to nickel silver but of course it can be done with lots of heat, flux and patience. 

 

The track itself is far and away too flexible. Pre-bending is out of the question. I use the PVA glue and ballast in one go method and the DC track has to be pinned in order to hold a curve. But it is impossible to push Peco pins into the hard plastic sleepers. They have to be pre-drilled. 

 

Cutting the rail with Xuron rail cutters. Even using a brand new pair, it is necessary to hold the rail with pliers as close to the point of cut as possible to prevent the stainless steel rail from twisting.  If it does twist, it has to be straightened but this often leaves an imperfect rail head so cut it off and start again.

 

Nickel silver rail would cure some of the problems, but if it is to the same profile as the stainless steel rail, it will still not be held securely in the chairs. Peco bullhead rail does hold better (it is different to anyone else's)....I discovered this when I had to replace a length of stainless rail that got damaged while building scenery. 

 

In fairness, these are my findings with other makes of flexible track.  Slipping Peco Code 75 rail joiners onto the new Peco bullhead track is very difficult but do-able with dexterity and care. SMP has thin sleepers and is a great track so long as it doesn't arrive so tightly packed that the sleepers have distorted and curved at their outer ends. If they have, the track is useless.

Edited by coachmann
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Well, I guess that there would be no challenge in this hobby of ours if we all used SetTrack and bought expansion packs.

 

Personally, I've given up waiting for the DCC Concepts/Legacy turnouts.  Maybe they will be the best thing since sliced bread when they finally appear.

 

Maybe. Maybe not..

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Now photos and opinions  have been posted of the Peco Bullhead points, is there still space in the market for a DCC concepts  range?  I hope that there is. Peco have made some understandable decisions over backward compatibility with their existing ranges, so I wonder whether a different geometry is still marketable. I'm sure DCC concepts will be minutely examining the Peco product and hopefully will come up with some decision  and  an announcement sooner rather than later.

 

Thanks

 

Dave

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Just a quick tip. Forget trying to cut the rail with Xuron cutters or piercing saw, until recent I used a cutting disc but have since found that a decent pair of tinsnips cuts relatively easily with only a small amount of distortion, which can be promptly rectified by the use of pair of pliers.

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Has there been any development or movement in the last... good grief, 7 months?

 

I spoke to them at the Glasgow show and, while not definitive, it looks like development is sliding towards the back-burner or maybe even the freezer.  Probably as a result of Peco's production, but it's a shame as there were indications they were heading towards EM-2 (OO-SF).

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