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Motive power for Camden Shed


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  • 10 months later...

Seems that there has been a very long time since my last posting here. However, I've just broken a habit of a lifetime by actually finishing something. I could have given a blow-by-blow account through the build but I tried to resist temptation as in the past, I've got sidetracked visiting various other topics. In fact, if I'd done so, it might also have stopped me from making two minor but once I'd discovered them, unrectifiable mistakes.

 

Anyway, as a bit of a tease/quiz, can you guess what I've made?

 

post-10140-0-60395800-1469972233_thumb.jpeg

 

Iain

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Both wrong but I like your thinking. Also - don't forget to factor in my incompetence when tying to work out what I'm doing. I tried to use a Brassmasters reversing lever support to add to a scratch built lever, but couldn't get the two to marry up properly. So it's an approximation.

 

Some scratch built bits and some Comet steps ready to be primed:

 

post-10140-0-46934200-1469996489_thumb.jpeg

 

Iain

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I'll have another stab in the dark.

 

The reversing lever is for a R/H drive loco.

Guard irons.  Pipes for a BR standard. The steps any body's guess.

 

Or are all 4 items linked to the same loco ?

 

Pete

Edited by cb900f
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Hi Farren,

 

No, they're guard irons. Not a 4-4-0 though.

 

Hi Pete,

 

Good effort but the inaccuracy of my guide for the reversing lever has led you too far up the garden path. Apologies. Steps are pure Stanier. Feed pipes go to a top feed not clacks. (Though the feed pipes are also slightly too wide, and too round, to fit perfectly. Guard irons, yes.

If I threw in this pic of the completed if as yet unweathered loco, it might give the game away?

 

post-10140-0-59977500-1470069282.jpeg

 

Iain

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Well done Pete!

 

It needs weathering yet, but it's finished.

 

I'll try to explain how I made it in the next post.

 

Hope that it looks something like it ought to. It's very nearly but not quite right, but I made a couple of, once I discovered them, unrectifiable mistakes.

 

 

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Iain

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Thanks Steve

 

Starting raw materials for this were:

 

A complete Hornby Rebuilt Patriot - this provides most of the loco: the chassis, cab, firebox, boiler and 10" of smokebox, rear sandboxes, tender chassis, rear two splashers, rear steps, and various fittings

 

A semi scrap Hornby Rebuilt Scot body - this provides the running plate and pipe along the left hand running plate, a replacement set of front splashers cut from the Scot middle ones, smokebox and saddle. It could also provide the deflectors and buffer beam. But the one I had was missing both.

 

The remains of a Brassmasters Scot/Patriot detailing kit. (new top feed, double chimney, reverser slide mounting, buffer beam)

Jackson Evans deflectors and AWS bang plate

Comet steps

Gibson bogie wheels

Comet rivetted Stanier tender body

AWS box and buffers from I don't know where

Halfords paints

Fox transfers and etched name/numberplate

HMRS numbers and class designation

Klear

A load of wire, plastic and fret waste

 

I've probably forgotten something from this list but will add it.

 

Iain

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Hi Iain,

 

Back on page 3 you noted the 2 boiler is 11 inches, less a tadge, longer than the 2A.  From overlaying photos, the smokebox and firebox on a 6P rebuild seem the same as 6170, so how did you magic up 3.8 mil and keep the taper?

 

It's well before your period, but I do prefer the raked back steam pipes 6170 had initially.

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Patriot body dismantled from the running plate and all fittings removed. Cab detached.

 

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Cut line marked on the Patriot smokebox

 

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And cut - a little over length in order to sand back flush and at the best angle

 

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Scot smokebox removed

 

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Iain

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Thanks Scott and Alan.

 

The Pat boiler and extra piece of smokebox were sanded smooth, thinned filler painted on, and the process repeated gently several times to create the right length and taper of boiler. This was then be joined to the Scot smokebox, but not until the smokebox saddle is repositioned to fit the new length.

 

This is where I went wrong, because I failed/forgot to slightly decrease the overall length of the smokebox at the same time. So, as one contributor rightly and politely pointed out by PM, the front of the smokebox is actually sitting a fraction too far forward.

 

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Iain

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Hi Iain

I thought the model was 7mm as well-this is a terrific Cut and Shut-have you considered expanding it into an article for the likes of BRM?  i am sure it would be popular.

Could do. Hadn't really thought to be honest. I doubt my step-by-step photos would be good enough?

 

Tender:

 

Hornby ledge removed completely and upper edge reinstated with the characteristic strengthening plates (5 on each side)

 

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Apologies for the bizarre weathering on the secondhand tender frame. It was as if the previous owner had used a wash of Costa latte. It was removed before painting!

 

Comet body

 

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Iain

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I realised after one coat of Rover Brooklands Green that a complete respray was necessary!

 

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You have to remove the front splasher sides which are metal, and have the nameplates integral to them, as the real plates are a completely different shape and have to be mounted on a plain splasher.

 

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Someone had told me that the British Legion plates were very hard to get hold of, due to some licensing issue with the real-life organisation. So I was very glad and pleased to find these in the Fox listings (although they are buried: I had to search using the loco number for them to register)

 

I painted the various sub assemblies separately as I thought it would be easier to get good coverage and also to mask effectively, before reassembling the whole loco. I think that was a good idea. It was at this point that I realised fully the problem of the top heavy nose caused by the too-long smokebox.

 

 

 

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Fabricating the rectangular shaped steam pipes took a while. To get exactly the right size and shape and matching both sides, I must have discarded a fair pile of plastic. But I got there in the end.

 

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Chassis front end:

 

Scratch built guard irons (yes they are a bit short but they do a visual job if not a functional one!). Comet steps I think. Can't even remember the provenance of some of the stuff now.

 

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Beginning the lining out process - again, I wanted to do the lining before adding the rest of the small detail parts to reduce obstructions and damage through handling.

 

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Further down the line..... Rear steps and injectors added by this point but not the lubricators etc.

 

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Buffer beam still to add!! I did get the order slightly mad at times.

 

Iain

 

Edited to try to replace the thumbnail!

Edited by 92220
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Thanks Mark. Yes all ok, have had a few developments at this end which have been challenging, so modelling time limited of late. Hope things are well with you.

 

Final steps:

 

All detail added, few pics in the sun.

 

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Then I worked out I'd forgotten the electric wires warning symbols, so the following are of the finished if as yet unweathered loco.

 

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Iain

Edited by 92220
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While I'm on a roll......

 

I finally got round to beginning the weathering on the Royal Scot I modified last year. Klear, air brush and removal/polishing with cotton bud, followed by some powders. A few pics in different lighting conditions

 

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One thing I do find frustrating is how the matt black/matt leather mix can come out very light in broad daylight. Indoor lighting on the layout it looks better.

 

Iain

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