Indomitable026 Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Thanks D Should be strong enough to withstand being sat on by cats too! ;-p The aim is to have it done for your next outing with DitD - don't fancy putting it in the post though! "Topping Out Ceremony" anyone? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 20, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 20, 2014 Lovely job. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 20, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2014 "Topping Out Ceremony" anyone? Yep, 19th July in Whitby? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Gough Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Looking good! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted June 20, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2014 Looks great Chris ! You could always bring it to Barnstaple for an official handing over ceremony ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted June 20, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 20, 2014 (edited) Dear Confused Pirate Duck, I love building buildings but I can say with hand on heart that signal boxes have to be my least favourite type of building. With fingers severely crossed, I sincerely hope that I'll only have to do two more before I'm 50... (1 for Pencarrow and the 2nd for another project that's in the wings). Mind you Seaton Jct box looks nice and, if you moved to 7mm, you could get one in kit form: http://www.ogaugemodelbuildings.com/#/seaton-junction-signal-box/4546314288 Spams has inadvertently enabled me to obtain a 4mm, hand built model of Seaton Junction Box (as shown in 7mm in the link he kindly gave me). I went to the link, looked at the stuff, posted the owner a question and within an hour the very talented lady (Jan) and I had agreed terms for a build with removable roof and all but the interior mechanics provided. I shall do that once the lever arrangements etc has been identified. As I am pushed for time, when I was quoted the price it was something I could not possibly decline. I would prefer that to be a P.M. posting only however I am quite happy to say that the cost is less than two new, not even full RRP Hornby Gresley coaches! Quite staggering. OK I've not got it yet but this lady has modelling experience and some. You may well come to understand what I'm on about. So, if you don't have Spam's skill, or time, or both (like me) here is someone that might be able to help with buildings. Phil Edited June 21, 2014 by Mallard60022 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 20, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 20, 2014 This evenings signal box action - a new roof... with a 2mm or so higher ridgeline... It won't be as fancy as the original internally but will look better externally. So here's the base being fabricated - a 1mm base onto which a ladder frame is constructed on the underside to locate the roof on the box. Once that's fitted the formers for the roof are fixed on the top side. A nice thick central rib that stands slightly proud and thinner triangles around it. The triangles in the corners are thicker material as there will be a join in the roof to support. These are marked up in-situ. The base has holes cut in it so that, when the roof panels are fitted, there's a way out for any solvent vapours. Roof fitted in place to make sure it sits flat. One adjustment required to push the front LH corner down a tad. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 20, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 20, 2014 Now on to making it sloping flatly. It's now ready for tiling and I've used York Model Making's laser cut, self-adhesive, tiles for the job. These come packs of 4 or 5 (forget which) sheets each with loads of strips ready to be used. I should have said, before fixing the roof flats they were marked with parallel guideline at 3mm centres. These really help in getting the strips aligned nicely. I always trim the edges after a whole side has been fitted - I find it easier that way. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 20, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 20, 2014 Tiling done. Roof ready for the ridge tiles and a spot of paint. Although 2mm doesn't seem much, the taller roofline sits much better on the box. I'm glad I changed it - it would have bugged me otherwise! 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 20, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 20, 2014 Cracking stuff Chris, the brickwork colouring is superb! Ta muchly Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkie_pudd Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Chris your Master Craftsman - simple as that is all I say as the picture speak for themselves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted June 20, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2014 I still think the roof is too shallow. In your comparison photo, the apex of the prototype end roof panel appears to be over the middle of the second window - the model's appears to be over the frame between 2nd and 3rd window. This could, of course, be due to the way the model & prototype have been photographed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Boom! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2014 I still think the roof is too shallow. In your comparison photo, the apex of the prototype end roof panel appears to be over the middle of the second window - the model's appears to be over the frame between 2nd and 3rd window. This could, of course, be due to the way the model & prototype have been photographed. Stu, unless the roof has different main and side pitches then the apex will be in the same position regardless of pitch - it's a geometry thing. The other variable is the building footprint and an error in the proportions would leave the apex in the wrong place - the box was built from dimensions taken on site by our tame signalman and match the results obtained tediously from the brick count method. A number of the photos used have been perspective corrected using GIMP software - this sorts out the main elevation but distorts roof lines (see the effect on the apex locations in the first photo in this thread!). The roof pitch I settled on is a smidge steeper than the drawings I have of GWR boxes. Roofs are bu99ers to work out from photos because of perspective and the images being taken from ground level. There is a 1mm error on the model though as a result of a snap decision and not thinking things through but that will hopefully be covered by a touch of filing and paint to trick the eye... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2014 Chris your Master Craftsman - simple as that is all I say as the picture speak for themselves. Thanks Ken. I've been called many things over the years but never a master craftsman before. I'm reasonably happy with how it's turning out, there are somethings I'd do differently if starting again, but I think I've still a long way to go to match the best in the hobby! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted June 21, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2014 Spams. I assume this box will mainly be viewed from a sort of 3/4 above/ helicoper/ walking on a steep cutting nearby position on the layout? If that is the case then I think you will find that the eye will tell you that this building looks 'right' due to the 'perspective effect'. Great work mate; truly inspiring and why I want to buy Treneglos when it eventually retires......... Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2014 Spams. I assume this box will mainly be viewed from a sort of 3/4 above/ helicoper/ walking on a steep cutting nearby position on the layout? If that is the case then I think you will find that the eye will tell you that this building looks 'right' due to the 'perspective effect'. Great work mate; truly inspiring and why I want to buy Treneglos when it eventually retires......... Phil Dear confused pirate duck, I'm much happier with the overall look of the model now it has a new roof and it won't be getting a third! I have Treneglos out in parts at the moment and the one thing that strikes me is that the way the group now does things and the standards we work to have moved on in the last 12 year's. If we started the same project now I suspect it would be a very different model. Deeper boards, EM?, better buildings and scenics and perhaps a continuous photo backscene. That said it still looks great as a whole and has a few more shows left in her. For various reasons the layout has a special place in our hearts - for me it marked my return to the hobby after a 10yr break from modelling. The old girl is not dead yet! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2014 Anyone got any good ideas on how to make a load of the brackets shown in this photo? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 Make a master, affix it to a piece of metal rod or wore, then use it to push into a plasticine mould then use araldite? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted June 21, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 21, 2014 I still think the roof is too shallow. In your comparison photo, the apex of the prototype end roof panel appears to be over the middle of the second window - the model's appears to be over the frame between 2nd and 3rd window. This could, of course, be due to the way the model & prototype have been photographed. I'm inclined to agree with you Stu. It's definitely an improvement on the original and strangely in some of the prototype pics on the 'net the real roof doesn't look quite right either so I think the angle of photography might be involved as Stu suggested. The other thing which could mislead the eye is that the ends of the ridge are unevenly placed in relation to the windows which is presumably due to alterations to the structure over the years and that could also mislead the eye. But too shallow or not it's a cracking model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Gringo Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 I still think the roof is too shallow. In your comparison photo, the apex of the prototype end roof panel appears to be over the middle of the second window - the model's appears to be over the frame between 2nd and 3rd window. This could, of course, be due to the way the model & prototype have been photographed. Stu, I think this is an illusion created by the camera angle of the photograph in the early post, which Chris is using for prime reference. Plus, I also assume (dangerous I know) that the roof trusses that Chris originally modelled in the superb roof version 1 would have rested on the uprights between the windows. Quite what they did to support the ridge of the slightly extended roof on the three window (LHS) end, only Chris can tell us. Anyway, I thought version one roof looked super, especially after all that interior detail that was in it. Please don't throw it away, I'll bet somebody would like to build a box to fit it! As regards the twiddly bits under the eaves, you could ask Mr. Basher nicely to resin cast a couple of dozen? It's looking brilliant Chris. All the very best, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2014 Bit of trivia - did you know the frame has 41 levers in it?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted June 21, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 21, 2014 Bit of trivia - did you know the frame has 41 levers in it?? Actually 38 - as there were 3 spaces. 15 of the levers were white in the DiTD period - leaving 1 x blue, 5 x black, and 17 x red. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2014 Pop quiz: Anyone care to guess how many of the levers are: Red Red with white stripe Red & yellow Blue Black Missing? (PS I do know the answer) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2014 John / Stu The roof trusses that run front to back... there are 4 of them and the outer two sit over the windows (strangely lining up with the roof apex!). Of the middle two, only one is near to resting on a vertical pillar between window sets. I presume there's a substantial wooden beam running across the top of the windows for the trusses to sit on. I've checked the pitch and apex location. On the real box interior photos show that the left hand truss (and hence apex) sits over the join between the 2nd and 3rd sets of windows from the left - that's exactly where it is on the model too. Phew! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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