Paul Cram

Pressfix transfers are superior to waterslide. Transfer is cut from backing and positioned on model. When happy they are pressed into place before water is applied. This sticks hem in position. The backing can then be wetted and removed. I will only use waterslide when there is no other option as they are the worst solution in my opinion. Methfix are the best but are getting more difficult to obtain.

I have just acquired 48 heavy duty and 140 standard ABS gresley bogies.for £60 including postage.

Very nice. I have ordered one. Where did you get the brass chimney from?

I do the opposite as the chassis is the junk part for me!

Been there and done that.

There are photos of the signals in Hoole's Branch line termini book but they are all semaphores. One photo is 1959 which is after passengers services ceased.

It is a clamp sold by Finney and Smith for holding things at right angles. I have one and it is brilliant so if you want one you had better get it ordered quick

Whilst I agree with you that the insulators appear to be below the cross pieces the ones on the model look too large and prominent. I think it is this that makes it look wrong. Could they be filed down which may be better than making the correct swan necks?

From the pictures the only really obvious difference is the over bridge which looks too high compared to the real one.

A full etched brass one from Arthur is less. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steve-Barnfield-NER-Class-T-T1-0-8-0-LNER-BR-Class-Q5-Locomotive-Tender-Kit-/201165566086?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item2ed666f086

For my K3 I will be getting a SEF chassis and P4 wheels. I will fit a portescap from stock amd hey presto a cheap P4 loco without having to buy the useless OO bits

I have a K3 which will have SEF frames and have P4 wheels fitted. Probably use one of my stock portescaps to power it

There have been many on the various threads saying they are happy with an inaccurate model and don't wish to be told about it's inaccuracies. I don't see that saying things are wrong is intolerant of these views rather it is they who are intolerant of people stating facts about the errors within. If you are happy with the model as is fine but leave others to highlight the errors for those that find these things important.

I managed to get a signalling diagram for Hawes from the signalling record society. It notes which levers do what and the spares together with a diagram of the points and locks.

Yes that's right the plastic muff axle.

I do find this sniping by people who are happy with inaccurate models wearing. Personally I want to know if a model is accurate or not and welcome that information form whoever can supply it so that i can make an informed decision of whether to buy or not. If you are happy with any old rubbish then good, but leave those who are trying for better alone.

I have converted mine to P4 but I have a slightly different problem as one of the axles has split. I would like to get a replacement for that if possible. I think your problem may be more to do with the axle rather than the wheels.

On our P4 layout we used plastazote which we then used double sided carpet tape to lay the track and dilute PVA for the ballast. The carpet tape stopped the glue seeping onto the foam and provided quiet running.

I particularly like the middle picture, it is very realistic.

Now I know you are confused. Sniping in the Ebay sense is not bullying and has nothing to do with ballistics, it is just a means of protecting your maximum bid from exposure. If I see an item I want I decide how much it is worth to me. I input this amount. Regardless of what happens after that that is my bid. It is no different to me doing it at the time the auction is ending. If you bid less then you lose but if you bid more I lose regardless of whether it was me sniping or a program. If I win and then choose to sell at a higher price then I run the risk of not selling. If you want something just make sure you have bid the maximum you are prepared to pay then you amy be more successful.

I understand they are now tied up at Tilbury as part of a crime scene.

You don't seem to understand how sniping works. If I bid my maximum on ebay then that can be exposed by people putting in small increment bids until they beat it. If I put my maximum into a sniping program they can't do this. They then have to decide how much they are prepared to bid as a maximum. This could also be put into a sniping program, bid at the last minute or just put in as normal. When the auction end the person who bids the most wins regardless of the method used. A sniping program cannot bid any more than the maximum input into it. It seems you are losing out by not bidding the maximum you are prepared to pay and it has nothing to do with the method.

But that only works if people don't input the maximum they are prepared to pay. I have lost out on auctions where my last second bid has been countered by a higher bid from an early bidder on the automatic bid but that is fine because they were prepared to pay more than I was. My bid is always the maximum I am prepared to pay. Sometimes I win at a lower bid and sometimes I am out bid Que sers sera.

I still don't see how you can tell it was a program. I always bid in the last 2 seconds without using a program. If they are dealers and out bid you then they run the risk of not realising a profit but that is their problem. You seem to be moaning because you can't buy items on the cheap. Those days of ebay have gone. Yes you can pick up the odd bargain here and there but in general things are more expensive. You only have to look at the number of times an item is sold for more than you can buy it new.

Unfortunately you don't appear to. Sellers want the highest price possible which is why they choose the auction route rather than a buy it now price. The market sets the price based on what buyers are prepared to pay. Although I don't use a sniping program I always sinpe my bids on items I really want as that way it stops others coming back with a counter bid. I win my auctions this way. When I put in my maximum early on I most often get out bid. There is nothing to stop you using a sniping program but you will still lose if your bid is less then someone else's. How can you tell a sniping program has been used anyway?