farren

Sorry forgot to quote you but have replied. Oh yes I have been watching your fabulous work on your page love the painting you achieve. Partly why I had a go at the LNWR livery and for a bit of variety.

Yes some kits do have vents on them, good point. I have to admit I was in two minds about that. My first coachs kit I built was from 247 developments which did LNWR coaches many moons ago. would need to double check the dia numbers (bad memory on such things) but with the kit you got separate vets for the doors I am sure I have some left to use. For the windows you cut some plan plasticard to the right size. Then carefully draw a saw-blade along it to give you the vent shape, for the next one I’ll probably just add them to the art work. if you look at my art work the black is the metal untouched. Obviously you can’t add metal so you need to start at the highest point on your drawing. Then anything recessed is in red. You can only etch one level from either side. Anything white the metal as been eaten away fully. So windows and holes are white. the blue lines are the same as the red but are on the opposite side of the art work. So things like fold lines or recess when you want to solder components together. If on the art work a blue and red line cross the result will be a hole so they must never cross. (I’m sure you know all this) on LNWR coaches around the windows you need a second recess. But this can’t be done, so looking back at the drawing you can see the long black bits with windows in them. The holes are 1 mm smaller all round ( ie minus 2 from horizontal and vertical measurements) compared to the main body sides windows. When fixed to the inner side of the coach. To do this is relatively easily, command c. Command v will give you a copy (needs to be highlighted). Delete all but the windows this will keep the windows at the right spacing. Then decrease the windows separately, (to do this you click on one window at a time go to the property tab should be on the right side of the screen just of the art bord in there you’ll fined the size of the highlighted item reduce by said amount. It reduces from the centre of the item so won’t effect the position of the window related to each other this way. you can then draw a rectangle around all the windows, small enough to fit the coach side. Group the work you just done. you can place the work over you coach sides. By changing the Oapacity of the work you’ll be able to see if the everything lines up. If you need more help let me know and I can explain with the aid of screen shots from Adobe. I hope this helps and I look forward to your results.

Well the coach has been sent in to be etched, only amendment needed was the blue dotted line was changed to a solid blue line. As the breaks (white dots) where too small to etch, and the size couldn’t be altered as in Adobe the white breaks are not a thing just a gap. From the program side I wasn’t too worried as pretty much spent 3years using it for my degree. So if I’ve messed it up it’ll be on the measuring front, everything seems to fit so be fun to see the etching when it gets here. put in a decent order at Wizard models for most the extra parts needed to finish the coach. As much as I’d like to paint it in LNWR livery I’m just not up to the job considering the expense of the project so LMS it is.

just needs the tabs adding to all the parts so they don't fall out, so will send it of the etchers for checking to make sure all is correct,

I’d ordered some new paint but ordered the wrong one! Oh well re-ordered some more. In the meantime I had a look at my Illuminated history of LNWR coaches, and dugout the laptop. With the idea of doing a etched coach, thought I’d start simple. Just do the sides and use what’s available to order where possible. Going along the lines of a mixed LNWR rake as what I’ve seen that seems what happened. So decided to go for a cove roof corridor composite 57’ Diagram 134. I have 3 Dapol kits and two already made 247 kit one being a dia 133 and whatever the other is I forget now but it’s written on it. I’ll probably cheat and go for the LMS livery. A bit more to do but the basic are there. The blue line is to aid with the Glass when fitting. ( if it works)

My 55 005 arrived today, and WOW it looks amazing just sitting on a worktop, can’t wait to fit a chip and get it running on the layout. What a super model to start your locomotive range of on. Well done to all at Accurascale. Doesn't your packaging supplier, do smaller boxes! I like mini booklet all the extras supplied. giving the buyer a Quality experience, Accurascale the Apple of the model railway industry. ps anyone know where this part comes from please. oh and a image of 005 because, why the devil not.

Thank you Baz. Simple Answer, No. Have now ordered a yellow colour to practice with when it’s cooler.

Here’s a photo of one LNWR coach Dapol. The livery is a right nightmare! It’s been stripped at lest 4times and one side might be 5! Still not happy though at 3ft it’s not too bad. However would like to to better! any tips would be very helpful and greatly appreciated. Paints used are railmatch. I think I obviously need more practice with the Bow Pen. I have a feeling the weather isn’t helping as the paint seems to be drying to fast and the bow pen needs a clean after one load of paint, is this normal. now no laughing but here’s a picture. roof is only in undercoat.

Jubilees are a minefield for details nearly as bad as black fives, 4 tenders types, long and short fireboxes, domed and domless boilers two different smoke box saddles and ( only if 1mm bothers you in scale ) long and short front bogies. But to be fair most differences had gone by BR days. I’ve managed most types all based on the dcc Bachmann model just need the Stanier 3500 gal tender the high sided Fowler tender goes nicely with a Jubilee but only ten ever built.

Bachmann dcc Jubilees come with two types of chassis the early ones with the DCC socket in the boiler, later ones have them in the tender. The chassis is the same both the Jubilee and the parallel Patriot and are interchangeable. Though if mixing tender and chassis try to get the dcc socket to match. The older models from Mainline later Bachmann chassis are interchangeable with the older jubilee, and rebuilt Scot’s/ Pats. I would think the body’s should drop straight on the newer chassis however fixings may need to be made. To be honest I have only fitted the old Parallel Scot body one to a new jubilee chassis. Markit wheels fitted. But the body dropped on with no problem. However new fixings had to be made to secure the body to the chassis. Nothing to hard about that though.

I’m a bit confused! You mentioned you sold the chassis, which the tender or the locomotive or even both.

Well the wheels still haven’t turned up and for the last week I’ve been stripping a chest of drawers by hand which was fun but I was determined it wasn’t going to beat me. Work as come to halt on that well waiting for the stain to arrive. So have built a small jig to help me in the next project. Some peco LNWR 50’ coaches, kits are here paints have been ordered and a Bow pen turned up on eBay so snapped that up. hopefully the jig will aid in the lining. Any tips are welcome. Pic of the jig it’s basic but hopefully you get the idea.

The body both on the tender and loco are all screwed down now. The wires from the much butchered donor Hornby tender chassis are connected to the loco so it runs. It’s a bit scatty, I think the loco needs some lead weight adding but how much? The last thing I don’t want to do is overload the motor now I’ve finally got it running. Hopefully the flangeless wheels turn up soon. Also fitted the motion Bracket and changed the reversing rod to a straight one along with removing a couple of bits not on one 6205 so that looks better. And managed to find a new unused 6201 on the net which will go nicely with 6203/5/8/12 and what ever the second kit ends up being when I sort the wheel splasher out.

I thought so this is the same loco as the beginning of this topic page. So it’s taken 9 years and one month to build hopefully this is close to the end. can anyone beat that for a build?

Sorry Brain missed your reply, I’ve seen a few people use model body’s with the comet chassis, and have wanted to try that but I’ve never quite got on with the valve gear. I’ve tried multiple times and well basically messed it up! However today might be the day to change all that. I returned to one of my Princess Royals 6208 it’s a Pro-Scale model. Though the chassis is now full on Comet. Not finished yet but the big hurdle as been overcome! Yippee!!! The Valve gear is all fitted tested and runs like a dream. Really quite pleased. Just the bogies and pony to do. I’ve decided to do what Hornby dose with theirs and ordered a flangeless set of wheels for it of fleebay. New body fixing screws and new number transfers. the paint is being left alone my first try at bow pen work…, only try.

Well it’s Saturday and I thought it would be nice to show some models on the layout looking the part for a change. Yes the Flatiron would never have been seen at Chorley but I’ve had the model for about ten years had multiple stop starts on it. Now finally finished its staying. The cairn is a LNWR but looking at the map was probably based closer to Chorley then the L&YR one which is identical apart from not having a cab roof. Still waiting for some plates and transfers for both locos.

Any one like a APT, I love the description, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115225863340?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VvArukubSGy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Sas8ngTwS8u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I wired it by cutting the green wire which goes from wheels to the motor and soldered the red wire to the green going to the wheels. The orange wire is solder to the second part of the green wire going to the motor (it’s becomes red as that was already soldered on to the brush) which is attached to the brush spring which is insulated. The black wire is soldered to the motor fixing screw. grey wire goes to the brush which normally is not insulated but the spring has been insulated with some shrink insulating tub. The decoder is kept insulated by sitting on a plastic card cradle glued to a platform glued to the models chassis. plugged into a 8pin socket fixed to the same plastic card platform.

Good morning I am currently trying to get a couple of model to run on dcc. The first is a Hornby Fowler early 1980/90s model converted to a limousine cab. So thought I could just flog the model and buy a new one I not sure if the body would fit. I’ve also fitted a DCC loco lamp to it not wire to the chip yet and don’t really want to waste all that time and effort. I’ve fitted the chip (DCC Zen Black medi with 3 amp)it runs fine on DC however when setting up on test track it doesn’t do the 3 little sprits movements. And on the main track it runs backwards and forwards with no speed control and a overload message if the throttle control is tried from minimum upwards it also make a humming noise. it’s all soldered and insulated image below a bet messy (sorry) seems to be extra wires with a plug plus others which might need to be cut but don’t want to do anything like that until everything works. The second loco is a kit built model (same make of chip) was wired into the tender but went puff as sone as the DC controller was switched on. It might have been because of a function wire touch the track (not sure). Is there a better and smaller chip that might fit inside the boiler. The model runs fine on DC no sparks can’t see anything touching anything it shouldn’t. The motor is just a small can motor from high level kits the controller is the Gauge Master controller if that makes any difference. any help very much appreciated, £30 for a smoke cloud is a bit much.

I was going to just post on the Chorley page from now but two of the models are not L&YR so thought I’d use this topic page to try and keep Chorley less clotted of none L&YR LNWR related models. The last few days I’ve been working on models that I was never fully happy with. The Fowler 4p 2-6-4t limousine has been stripped back to its main parts. The plastic Donor body as had extra plastic removed to allow windows to fit better. Rebuilt and given a new number seen based to Chorley station allowing a bit of models license though probably did run through Chorley. However having problems with the dcc chip at the moment. Get a error code. It runs but have no speed control other then go and stop. With a overload message if the speed is adjusted. the second is the flatiron stripped repainted, now with a High level motor gearbox fitted and runs though pickups need fitting. The lining is done on both the front and back along with the side shown the other side still needs doing. The L&YR class 25 not sure if anything else as been done since last update on the Chorley page. but I I like the model so it’s getting a second showing here. However I did blow a zen black chip in it which was a little annoying!

Almost done, waiting for some crank pines, the lms cab side panels plus plates shed, loco smoke box and builders. the L&YR 20 ton Break van needs little more work body colour windows and transfers.

Yes I had a discussion on Facebook about the builders plates. I’ve ordered a set of builders plates from light railway stores along with shed and loco smoke box number plates for about £7. So not bad. I’ve gone for 12045. finished the model more or less, need a clean and painting. Rods are ready to be fitted but didn’t want to risk damaging them.

Managed to get the motor and gearbox all fitted, manage to keep the gear box out of the cab. Had to cut some of the boiler bottom out but it’s not visible so all ok. The way the how thing fits together I’ve had to make the boiler front detachable, kept in place by a little step in the cab floor and a small plate inside the boiler with blacktack to hold it in place Seems to work. fitted a home brew coal rail to the front of the tender which most prototypes seem to have fitted in LMS days. These really just cab roof some cab details to fit, full clean paint and pickups wired up. Oh coupling rods might be a could be a good idea too. and to pick a Loco number. dose anyone know of oo gauge plates (I believe it’s a builders plate) of the type shown fitted to the middle wheel splasher in the 3 photos at the bottom.

Well the tender is a lot closer to being finished the flaring was fun need a little more straightening. The new gearbox as been partly built and is fitted in to see if it’s going to fit. At the moment I think I might getaway without the gearbox intruding into the cab. slowing adding images back onto this topic so some sense can be had if reading it.

Well the class 25 as slowing come together, still waiting for the new gearbox probably turn up this week hopefully. Ran out of low melt solder and as been ordered so have done as much as possible with standard solder, now at a stage where only low melt solder can be used.