farren

Well it’s a runner needs a top coat and lining doing plus wheel weights and wheel bosses. Buffers and safety valves. Other than that it’s pretty much done.

Well it’s coming along, the value gear is built and fitted even tested and it all runs fine nothing catastrophic happened. The front bogie is a concern I used the Hornby one re drilled the hole about 3 mm further back in the bogie bracket and had to extend the channel in the chassis the bogie sits in by the same. Also cut the bottom back of the cylinders out to let the bogie swing a little more. Also switch the wheels to some markits Stanier ones It’s going to be tight. I am hoping it will run on the layout. need to try and get rid of that dent behind the pipe work, must have learned on something Will doing the other side hand rails.

I was having a look at the drawing last night, and I saw you message sorry I didn’t get back sooner. If the valences are out that is something I think is beyond my cutting skills and would be a waste of brass. I’ve upload the drawings onto the lap from the book. I’m in doubts with trying to do new etches for the this kit. so I think I’ll draw up a set for the small boiler version, on the plus side I found another chassis in one of the boxes off bits so this build will carry on. I’ve cut the chassis different to the last one. Will need to make a false sides for the front under the drop plate. The front seems better I just hope the nothing is wrong with the drive. Seems okay though.

Well it’s was going great, the motor didn’t fit but that was easily fixed I removed the boiler forming plate and the boiler stayed in position tacked it to the body fix done. Then I noticed the wheels weren’t in gauging with the motor anymore. Only broke the peg on the motor mount and it’s stuck in the casting. So the chassis is only good for the bin. Oh joy happy day etc. dug out the kit chassis. It’s terrible, its to long, the wheels don’t line up with the cut out of the splasher cutouts unless you cut a bit of the front and back of but if you do that the cylinders are 2-4 mm to far forward. So now it’s either designed my own and cut them out or I design a set on the pc and get them etched. the first being faster the second will give a better finish,

Getting close to finishing the body, the boiler handrails and pipes need fitting along with the smoke box door hinge. Need to make a cab floor and some details. I do like how the steam pipe comes up though the drop plate and not in front of the buffer beam on the Claughton. A simple detail to add drill a hole pop a some washer on the steam pipe on pop in the hole.

That’s looking suitably grubby there, with an array of indistinguishable black locomotives. I do like the neglected atmosphere of steam in BR days.

A much more productive day today. I think it’s starting to look like a Claughton.

Well it’s been a fun fulled head scratching and don’t forge burnt fingers day. I discovered I had switched the datum from one end to the other when I made the plastic chassis extension. Luckily it only meant I had to fill the slots for the cylinders and recut them. The build isn’t to bad but it dose lack any aids of a modern design. Slots drawings and better instructions. been looking at the rest of the kit. I’m going to do the the large boiler Caparotti mainly because I put the joint on the chassis to close to where the motion bracket would go. The kit seems to be missing the large boiler etch so just have to make one. Also missing the dome which hopefully an alternative can be found.

Thank you I think I’m going to be reading your topic quite a bit. I was just looking at the cab end short stop. Wondering if there’s was something I had missed or the cab rubplate was going to sort that out. Just had a quick look at the moment but saw the drawing you used. Where did you get that from?

The great thing with brass is if you get it wrong, you and just unsolder it clean it up and mess it up again and again untilll you get it right. When I started I bought some tools and brass got some Cheap scale drawings and set about totally clueless. Found some websites read a lot asked many a daft question and slowly improved. I’d know class myself as a beginner with experience. I have to admit I’m happiest tinkering with a bit of brass when modelling. There is always a worry when you take a perfectly good model and put a saw to it.

Did a bit more, there’s no cut outs for the wheels which I’ll do tomorrow lights fading, so it’s basically sitting on the wheels but it show’s promise

After scratching my and lot, I remember I had a spare frame in a box. So I’ve cut the front of and copied the front of the Claughton frames and made a composite frame..well. it’s made from 12 layers with shaped sides making a sandwich. Front is the glued and pegged to the Hornby spare chassis. The green putty is to soften the lip once painted I don’t think it will show too much. 46256 i know other people have made dcc kits but the last lot I built the L&YR class 23 page or two back i blow the chip on the test track. The model run perfect on Ac so it’s probably my on fault when testing it. But it’s A annoying, B expensive. I’ll pluck up courage one day. K22009 you know that back wheel is just slightly off. 1/4 mm maybe I could probably get away with using the Hornby coupling rods. Leaving more spares for a second engine.

Funny I’m yet to find a Hornby model with such issues, the blue coronation coaches run beautifully along with the four princess Royals and a coronation over the last couple of years. Accurascale thought buffer missing on one wagon and the Deltic, bits in the box, chains Brake just looking at it. Engine room light do they have one mine doesn’t the tail lights only work on one side. It’s going back.

No I thought I’d investigate it, with out going to far. Nothing done so far that can’t be undone. So having it stripped down I’ve been able to see where things need to go. And it’s not looking very workable if I had a lathe and a drill stand or a pellerdrill it could be done. It needs to make 3 vertical cuts in the chassis to position the cylinders and valve gear bracket. Some grinding to both the top and bottom of the chassis close to the cuts. This would make the front very vulnerable to snapping it hit or dropped. Know I’m not saying it’s not impossible but hand tools it’s likely to go wrong and ruin a good model. I did think of a work around could be to attach the value gear to the underside of the body. But this would be a headache to do. if I went for the Caprotti then that would remove the need for one cut and obviously the valve gear but I do like the idea of walschaerts valve gear. I’ve now got a Bachmann jubilee on the bench to check but this basically leaves most of the cylinders floating in thin air. Has the jubilee chassis ends pretty much after the cylinders. so that seems to put a stop to the use of a RTR chassis. I might revisit the idea if I ever decide to do a Caprotti in the future. Saying that it’s just accrued to me, I’ve been trying to use the brackets has intended as in an inverted L shape. If I removed the leg it might be possible to just drill the chassis and screw the brackets onto to top of the chassis or file a mm or two to fit. Which is much better then cutting over 2/3rds through the casting. I will need to check measurements to see if they would end up in the correct horizontal plane. livery, well it’s got to be LMS Crimson,

I don’t know I’m in two minds wether to live with it or take it out and put it in something else. But a 2 cylinder princess Isn’t a Princess.

Thought I’d start off with a perfectly good working Rebuilt Patriot, then i take everything off it, and chuck in the bin! (Not really it’s in a bits box) fit some Gibson wheels and some big bosses that stand out on the prototype. After which you have a cup of coffee and worry if this idea is such a good thing and is it going to work.! the kit is jidenco and it has the parts to do both the small and large boilers version, Caprotti and has the smoke deflectors. And the option of the cutdown cab. Hornby chassis is a straight swap the bogie will need to be shunted forward about 5mm I haven’t measured the hacksaw and grinder will be needed to help it fit and swivel. The cylinders need a cut in the chassis to allow them to fit. So nothing to extreme. The tender is another question i could use the one in the kit or Bachmann do both the LNWR one from their super D or the ROD 2-8-0 tenders which would save time and bother. Plus it leave bits for a second loco if I ever want. So the question becomes which locomotive, large boiler I think and that’s had far has I’ve got. here’s some photos

I haven’t come across one, I learned from other peoples posts. My own attempts and the Locomotives profile books on the black 5s. But you could always start one. People are bond to add ideas, a link would be useful and would save this topic for the new model.

The older tooling isn’t that bad really, the main areas that need attention can all be done with some modelling. Under the smoke box between the frame extensions needs cutting out, a plastic card piece glueing inside the body will sort that out. There is a small pipe that needs fixing on the right looking at the front too. The tender needs the coal bunker cutting out and rebuilding adding a tool tunnel helps. The lip at the top of the tender chassis needs cutting of the gap filled and some brackets added. Markits bogies really help finish it off. extra mile detail Comet front bogie and drop in a set of drive wheels. Which are a straight swap if they are designed the same as the Stanier rebuilds Scot/pats. (I haven’t done the drive wheels) I’ve done 5 out my six black 5s and have no interest of buying the new ones. The detail will be refined I am sure but it’s not going to be massive other than the wheels which will help. I am expecting the difference on the body to be the same as the new vs the older Princess Coronations with not a lot in it from the point of the body other then the lack of needing to take a knife to your new model. Personally I don’t see the point of replacing my black 5s 5 of which probably cost less than a new model from eBay when bargains could be had. the Caprotti is the exception. amendment I mentioned the drivers thinking that they were the Hornby ones missing the Stanier taper wheel but looking at a photo of one of mine the driver wheels don’t look too bad. Old image missing the Markits bogie wheels.

Bit of a bargain I’d say, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185573225572?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oSc--yvOTdu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Sas8ngTwS8u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

That’s a lovely model, always liked the Claughton. So after reading you progress I’ve just bought a Jidenco kit of EBay. I’m thinking of using a Hornby Patriot chassis possibly re-wheel depending. Mainly to build a dcc ready kit. But will have to check everything out when the kit arrives.

Good point I forgot about comet, mind 247 is useful for the Red5’s. I’ve done all the chopping of black5s I am ever going to do myself. The only new Hornby black5 I’m interested in is Caprotti.

247 developments do Stanier domes, though their site seems to be not loading the header titles at the moment! two sets of tender? I take it you mean transfer. HMRS Transfers or fox or Modelmasters but I read they’re not being very reliable at the moment for some people and I’m been waiting for tank transfers for some time.

the thing with locomotives is what is the identity of a locomotive? The boiler? Obviously not. Then is it the main frames well they wore out and got replaced. maybe it’s just a builders plate and a number in the end. Only that doesn’t work either. Some black5’s ran with two builders plates one on the smoke and another on the frame extension at certain times. Meaning there’s locomotives running around with out a builders plates. In the end the only way to know what any locomotive looked like at anyone point is to have a photograph of it on a set date. Preferably from multiple angles to catch all the details

Make a small L bracket and solder it, or search eBay and save the search it will then alert you when the part is put up for auction/sale.

45151 wearing both domed and domless covers, she is obviously a 1st ring top feed boiler the pipe gives it away, that and the text. Maybe this has given the impression of a double dome to some.