Graham108

A word of caution - I've just spotted an email in my junk folder relating to a return of goods for an exchange. Looked genuine until I noticed my name was spelled incorrectly - and I hadn't returned anything to them. Your filtering software might not work in the same way. I recommend you do not open anything similar.

I've got 034 on its way from Rails as a Xmas present to myself - very fortunate! Must think about the MK5's sometime in the NY.

Do the DRS-branded versions get used much on the TPE route?

Rails day 4 - https://railsofsheffield.com/products/37120/Dapol-7p-004-010-o-gauge-autocoach-gwr-chocolate-cream-twin-cities-no-39

IMHO the only stupid question is the one that's never asked - do the panto's work manually for DC operation or can they only go up / down via a chip function?

Thanks for the tip - is that the removal of the part held in by the screw ?

Why, did you recognise your car in the scrap heap?

Cheers Fran - will go with that

Si I got mine on Friday and they're as excellent as expected. I haven't plucked up courage to open the one with the light to put the battery in yet but I'll get round to that sometime. But I do have a different question or two about the 'end' wagon - if I wish to remove the coupling at the light end I can do so by removing the screw? If I do this then I can add the dummy link coupling included with the spares, But where do the brake / vacuum pipes go - there's 2 holes on the same side (right as you look at it) where I'd expect them to be one either side of the coupling as per the other end. Am I missing something here?

I've realised my mistake - the lower price is ex-VAT. I've just ordered 6 packs with a total £250 for 18 wagons - BARGAIN!

Is there a discount on the super-bulk pack of 19 wagons? When you first load the page is says £325, but the after a few seconds reverts to the £390 price.

So last night I isolated the motor and the lights worked correctly in each direction. So I guess I need to look at the capacitor as the next step.

Thought they're due next month?

Same here - I've only got a single 66 (66301) but 3 PFA's to act as barriers between the MK 2F's and the KUA's. Just hope my storage siding is long enough!

@andyman7 - as in my original post the dummy cars work fine - although it looks like I've inserted the PCB's the other way up @dagworth - will try your suggestion - probably be tomorrow now - it could be more of a flicker with the 'wrong' lights rather than constant; I'm using a Morley 4-track controller through the hand-held extension @Pete the Elanerthanks I now know something I didn't before @John ks- will try your suggestions if necessary

So here's a photo or 2 - 1 wire runs from the front wheels on the front bogie to one end of the original bulb - this has been soldered to one side of the PCB ('A'). Another wire runs from the rear wheels on the front bogie to the motor - a wire from the rear bogie is also linked to the motor. A wire then runs back to the other side of the original bulb - this has been soldered to the other side of the PCB ('B'). The diode originally in this wire has been removed and the 2 ends soldered together. Hopefully the pictures show all this - any help to solve my problem will be gratefully appreciated.

What's a suppression capacitor?

Think that's only for DCC operation via a chip.

The original diodes are there so they white lights don't illuminate when the unit is trailling - i.e. at the back of the train

I'll try and get some photos if you don't mind taking a look for me

So if the wagons are 'tippled' separately then why do they have rotary couplings?

Fully understand now - thanks for all replies

Assuming the rotary coupling is to allow the wagon to be rotated to be emptied, then the plain wagon is always empty?

I have a pair of HST's which are somewhere between 45 - 50 years old - still going strong. However the lights only worked in a forward direction and were very weak. I saw an advert for an upgrade with a PCB supplied by the above. Fitted fairly simply by removing the bulbs and replacing with the PCB - I decided to remove the pins from the wires and solder direct to the relevant places on the board and also removed the diode which worked the lights according to direction of travel. The non-powered units work fine, but in the powered cars both sets of lights are appearing at the same time, regardless of direction. I know the PCB's work as I've powered them direct - but when powered by the wheels the fault appears. Anybody used these and either not had the problem or managed to correct to make them work properly please? Graham

There's actually 6 INSIDE & 3 UNDER as per the instructions - I've still only got 2 under - not taken the body off yet to count the others. Still I'm guessing I only need 2 as they switch off the tail lights at either end.